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TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 



A GENERAL SKETCH OF THE HISTORY OF BRISTOL, 
RHODE ISLAND, INCLUDING, INCIDENTALLY, AN 
ACCOUNT OF THE VOYAGES OF THE NORSEMEN, SO 
FAR AS THEY MAY HAVE BEEN CONNECTED WITH 
NARRAGANSETT BAY: AND PERSONAL NARRA- 
TIVES OF SOME NOTABLE VOYAGES ACCOMPLISH- 
ED BY SAILORS FROM THE MOUNT HOPE LANDS 



WILFRED HAROLD MUNRO 



OK BROWN UNIVERSITY 



PRINCETON UNIVERSITY PRESS 
PRINCETON 

LONDON: HUMPHREY MILFORD 

OXFORD UNIVERSITY PRESS 

1917 



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Copyright, 1917, by 
Princeton University Pkess 

Published November, 1917 
Printed in the United States of America 




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CONTENTS 

PAGE 

Introduction : Old Bristol i 

Part I — Simeon Potter and the Prince Charles of 
Lorraine 

I — Simeon Potter 37 

2 — Letter of Father Fauque 48 

Part II — Norwest John and the Voyage of the Juno 

I — Norwest John 97 

2 — Voyage of the Juno 100 

Part III — James de Wolf and the Privateer Yankee 

I — James De Wolf 205 

2 — Journal of the Yankee 225 

Index 289 



TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

INTRODUCTION: OLD BRISTOL 

From the earliest days of the Plymouth Colony the name 
Mount Hope Lands has been applied to the peninsula in 
Narragansett Bay of which Bristol, Rhode Island, is the 
chief town. The history of this town is more crowded with 
notable incident than that of any other in New England. 
First and most picturesque is the story of the Norsemen. 
Around Mount Hope the legends of the Norsemen cluster, 
shadowy, vague, elusive, and yet altogether fascinating. 
Only legends they are and must remain. 

After the lapse of a thousand years of changing climates 
and of varying shores no man can definitely locate the Vin- 
land of the Vikings. Many have attempted to do so, and, 
like the late Professor E. N. Horsford,^ have established 
their theses to their own satisfaction and the satisfaction 
of the present dwellers in their Vinland, but they have not 
succeeded in convincing any one else. One of the latest 
writers^ approaching the subject without local prejudice, 
and judging of the past by the ever changing present, will 
have it that the physical conditions of the lands around 
Narragansett Bay in the eleventh century were such as to 

1 The Landfall of Leif, The Problem of the Northmen, The Defences 
of Nonimbega, The Discovery of the Ancient City, Leif's House in 
Vinlandj etc. 

2 W. H. Babcock, Early Norse Visits to America. Smithsonian 
Misc. Colls., Vol. 59, No. 19. 

I 



2 TALES OF AN OLD SEAPORT 

make it more than probable that the "Hop" of the Norse- . 
men is the Mount Hope of today." In his conclusions all 
good Bristolians, yea more, all good Rhode Islanders, cheer- 
fully join. Scandinavian writers insist that the name 
"Mount Hope" is of Norse origin. They assert that it 
is only an English spelling of the Indian name Montop, or 
Monthaup, and they are probably correct in their assertion. 
The Indians had no written language and our Pilgrim an- 
cestors spelled the Indian words as they pleased, sometimes 
in half a dozen ways upon the same page. They go on to 
say that the termination "hop" was the name which 
Thorfinn and his companions gave to this region when 
they wintered here in 1008, and they bring forward the 
old Norse sagas to prove it. This is the story as the sagas 
tell it: 

In the year of Our Lord 1000 the Norsemen first visited 
the shores of Vinland. They came from Greenland, a hun- 
dred years and more after their countrymen had discovered 
and colonized Iceland. Their ship was an open boat from 
fifty to seventy-five feet long, similar to the one dug from 
the sands at Sandefjord, Norway, in 1880, which is pre- 
served in the museum of the university at Christiania. It 
was propelled by oars and had a short mast amidships on 
which was spread a small square sail. Both mast and sail 
were used only when the wind was fair. They came creep- 
ing along from headland to headland, seldom venturing 
out of sight of land in the unfamiliar seas. The mariner's 
compass was then unknown, except perhaps to the Chinese, 
and the art of propelling a boat against the wind by "tack- 
ing" had not been developed, unless possibly by those same 

3 Babcock, p. 139. 



OLD BRISTOL 3 

Chinese. It would have been impossible to tack in one of 
the Viking- ships. In the first place the sail area was too 
small and in the second place the steering was all done from 
one side. A long steering oar was fastened upon a fulcrum 
about two feet long on the right side of the boat, the steer- 
board, starboard side. On one tack the oar would have 
been useless because submerged, on the other equally use- 
less because it could not go deep enough to "grip" the water. 
To men accustomed to the icy Arctic seas, voyages south- 
ward held out no terrors ; they were only pleasant summer 
excursions. 

Thirty-five men made up the party and their leader was 
Leif Ericson. His purpose was to explore the coasts which 
his countryman, Biarni Heriulfson, had seen several years 
before, when in attempting to cross from Iceland to Green- 
land adverse winds had driven him to lands lying far to 
the south, possibly the island of Newfoundland. Leif was 
sailing in Biarni's ship which he had bought for the voyage. 
The first shores sighted they conjectured to be those which 
Biarni had seen. They offered no attractions. The ex- 
plorers called the country Helluland, the Land of Broad 
Stones, and passed on to Markland, the Land of Woods, 
which may have been Nova Scotia. A few more days 
brought them to an island where they noticed a peculiar 
sweetness in the dew. They may have been the first "Off 
Islanders" to land upon Nantucket, which is noted for its 
honey-dew. Following the coast they came to a place 
"where a river flowed out of a lake." The region was in- 
viting but the tide was low and the explorers were obliged 
to wait until high water before they could pass over the 
broad shallows into the lake beyond. Here they disem- 
barked and erected temporary habitations which soon gave 



4 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

place to permanent dwellings when they determined to win- 
ter at that place. The new houses were easily constructed 
from the stones which abundantly covered the fields as they 
do even to this day. 

The place seemed a paradise to the hardy voyagers. Fish 
of many kinds leaped from the waters of the river and bay. 
Salmon larger than any they had before seen were especially 
abundant. Many wild animals roamed through the forests, 
as the deer wander through the woods and pastures of 
Rhode Island at the present time. The denizens of the 
frigid zone rightly imagined that cattle might easily find 
provender throughout the winter, in a climate so soft and 
mild. They experienced no severe cold; "no snow fell and 
the grass did not wither much." They had chanced upon 
one of the mild winters with which we are occasionally 
favored. Three or four times in the last thirty years the 
Mount Hope Lands have known seasons when there were 
but few snow storms and those slight, seasons when in the 
sheltered nooks of the forest the grass did not wither much. 
The next party encountered "real New England weather," 
and doubtless objurgated Leif's party for romancing con- 
cerning the climate. "The equality in length of days was 
greater than in Iceland or Greenland. On the shortest day 
the sun remained above the horizon from 7.30 to 4.30."* 

The dwellings having been completed, Leif divided his 
men into two parties in order to explore the country. One 
party was to remain at home while the other went abroad, 
and the exploring party was always to return at nightfall. 
Especial charge was given the men to keep together. The 

4 Astronomical calculations demonstrate that the sun rose and set 
at the time mentioned, October 17, in Latitude 41°, 24', 10", almost 
exactly that of Narragansett Bay. 



OLD BRISTOL 5 

fear of the unknown was a marked characteristic of the 
Dark Ages, even among the Norsemen who dreaded no 
human foes. One of the party was a German, Tyrker by 
name, a kind of foster father of Leif. He was missing- 
one night when the explorers came home and Leif at once 
started in search of him with a party of twelve men. They 
were soon met by Tyrker, whom they welcomed with great 
joy. But the man acted most strangely. At first he spoke 
only in German, his mother tongue, and rolled his eyes and 
made strange facial contortions when they did not under- 
stand what he said. After a time the Norse language came 
back to him and he explained his queer behavior. He had 
chanced upon some wild grapes and the memories his dis- 
covery brought back were too much for him. Whether he 
had found some of the fox-grapes which are still so com- 
mon in New England, or whether, as Professor Fernald 
conjectures, the fruit was either a wild currant or a rock 
cranberry, we can not know; but the adventurers were im- 
mensely pleased at his discovery. They filled the "long 
boat," which was carried with them as a tender, with the 
dried fruit, when in the early spring they returned to 
Brattahlid, their home port. Because of the grapes the 
name Vinland was given to the region. 

The return of Leif and the account his sailors gave 
naturally caused intense excitement in that quiet com- 
munity. In the spring of 1002 Thorvald Ericson, taking 
his brother's ship and probably some of Leif's crew as 
guides, sailed on another voyage to Vinland. His object 
was to make a more thorough exploration of the country. 
Thirty men made up Thorvald's party. Nothing is told 
of their voyage until they reached Leif's booths in Vinland. 
There they laid up their ship and remained quietly through 



6 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the winter, living by hunting and fishing. The next year 
was spent in exploring the lands to the south. The second 
summer they turned their steps northward and in this north- 
ern expedition Thorvald was killed in a battle with the na- 
tives. His comrades buried him on the headland where 
he had proposed to settle. "There you shall bury me," he 
told them after he had received his death wound, "and place 
a cross at my head and another at my feet, and the place 
shall be called Crossness ever after." The winter of 1004-5 
was passed in Leifsbooths gathering cargo for the return 
voyage. Li the spring they sailed back to Greenland carry- 
ing large quantities of grapes as their companions had done. 
Because of Thorvald's death the accounts of his voyage 
are probably more meagre than they otherwise would have 
been. 

In 1007 the most important of the Norse expeditions 
sailed from Greenland. Its leader was Thorfinn Karlsefni. 
Thorfinn was both seaman and merchant. Sailing from 
Iceland to Greenland on a trading voyage, he had wintered 
at Brattahlid and there married his wife Gudrid. Naturally 
there had been much talk of Vinland the Good during the 
long Arctic winter and in the spring an expedition to ex- 
plore the new country was fitted out. It consisted of three 
ships manned by one hundred and sixty men. With it went 
Gudrid and six other women, for it was proposed to colonize 
the land. Thorfinn spent the winter amid great hardships, 
caused by cold and lack of food, on what may have been 
one of the islands of Buzzard's Bay. There his son Snorri 
was born, as far as we know the first child of European 
parents born upon the shores of the American continent. 
In the spring, coming at last to the place "where a river 
flowed down from the land into a lake and then into the 



OLD BRISTOL 7 

sea," they waited for the high tide, as Leif had done, sailed 
into the mouth of the river and called the place Hop/' On 
the lowlands about them were self-sown fields of grain; 
on the high ground the wild grapes grew in great profusion. 
Deer and other wild animals roamed through the forests. 
The brooks as well as the bay were filled with fish. They 
dug pits upon the beach before the high tide came and when 
the tide fell the pits were leaping with fish. Just so today 
flounders may be caught along- the Narragansett shores. 
The booths that Leif's party had put up could not accom- 
modate the new comers and additional houses were built 
inland above the lake. No snow fell during the winter. 
The cattle they had brought with them needed no protec- 
tion and lived by grazing. None of the privations of the 
previous winter were experienced, and all things went well 
until the Skraelings, or natives, appeared. At first the 
Skraelings came only for trading. They wished to ex- 
change skins for goods, being especially anxious to obtain 
little strips of scarlet cloth, and willingly giving a whole 
skin for the smallest strip. The Norsemen benevolently 
attempted to satisfy the desires of all by tearing the cloth 
into smaller and yet smaller pieces as the supply diminished. 
While the bartering was going on one of the bulls Thorfinn 
had brought with him appeared upon the scene, bellowing 
loudly. Thereupon the savages rushed to their canoes and 
paddled away as quickly as possible. A month later they 
reappeared, this time not to barter but to fight. In the 
combat that followed two Northmen fell and many of the 
Skraelings were killed. This battle convinced Thorfinn 

^ In Old Norse the term "Hop" was applied to any inlet, fiord or 
harbor with a narrow entrance, widening inside not far from the en- 
trance to a larger lake or lagoon into which a river flowed. 



8 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

that the lands though excellent in qualit}^ would be unde- 
sirable for a colony by reason of the hostility of the natives. 
He therefore turned his keels northward and returned to 
Greenland in loio. 

From this time expeditions to Vinland to procure grapes 
and timber became frequent. Because they had lost their 
novelty they ceased to be chronicled. As the saga puts it, 
"they were esteemed both lucrative and honorable." One 
noteworthy one is given in the "Antiquitates Americanae," 
that of Freydis and her husband Thorvald. The tale of 
Freydis is a grewsome one. She seems to have been en- 
tirely lacking in human sensibilities. Her husband mur- 
dered in cold blood all the men of a party that had opposed 
him but he spared their five women. Freydis seized an axe 
and brained them all. Possibly their mangled remains may 
have been buried at the foot of Mount Hope. 

Other mention of Vinland is found apart from the Ice- 
landic chronicles. Adam of Bremen in his "Historia 
Ecclesiastica," published in 1073, describes Iceland and 
Greenland and then goes on to say that there is another 
country far out in the ocean which has been visited by many 
persons, and which is called Vinland because of the grapes 
found there. In Vinland, he says, corn grows without 
cultivation, as he learns from trustworthy Norse sources. 
This must of course have been the Indian corn, a grain 
that is hardly possible of cultivation in Europe north of 
the Alps. 

The people of Iceland were more given to the writing 
of chronicles than were those of the countries of Europe, 
but unhappily Iceland was a land of volcanoes and eruptions 
were not infrequent. An eruption of Mount Hecla in 1390 
buried several of the neighboring estates beneath its ashes. 



OLD BRISTOL 9 

Perhaps under those ashes may be lying other sagas that 
may at some time be brought again to Hght, as in the case 
of the scrolls of Pompeii. Mention of the lands that Leif 
discovered is found in the "Annals of Iceland" as late as 
1347. The last Bishop of Greenland was appointed in the 
first decade of the fifteenth century and since that time the 
colony has never been heard of. Ruins of its houses may 
still be seen, but of the fate of those who dwelt in them we 
know nothing. 

One witness there still may be to testify to the Norse 
visits. About thirty-five years ago a rock known by tradi- 
tion but lost sight of for half a century was rediscovered 
on the shores of Mount Hope Bay. Upon it is rudely carved 
the figure of a boat with what may have been a Runic in- 
scription beneath it. The writing was surely not graven 
by English hands and the Indians had no written language. 
May not the strange carving have been made by the axe 
of a Norseman? It is not remarkable that the rock was 
lost sight of for so many years. The inscription is incon- 
spicuous and the rock is like hundreds of others along the 
shore. Moreover it was sometimes covered by the high 
tides of spring and fall. It has recently been removed to 
a more conspicuous position and may ere long be protected 
by a fence from the vandalism of the occasional tourist. 

Fact and not fancy characterizes the Indian history of 
the Mount Hope Lands. First upon the scene steps Massa- 
soit, "Friend of the White Man," ruler of all the region 
when the Pilgrims of the Mayflower landed upon the shores 
of Plymouth. Like all the Indian sachems, Massasoit had 
many places of residence. He moved from one to another 
as the great barons of the Middle Ages moved from one 
castle to another, and for the same reason. When pro- 



lo TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

visions became scarce in one place a region where they were 
more plentiful was sought. One of his villages was un- 
questionably upon the slope of Mount Hope. Not many 
weeks after the landing of the Pilgrims Massasolt had paid 
them a visit in their new settlement. In July, 1621, Edward 
Winslow and Stephen Hopkins were sent by Governor Brad- 
ford to return the visit. Of what happened to this "em- 
bassy" and to a second sent some two years later, Winslow 
presented a very full account, which may be read in very 
nearly all of the histories of the period. It is one of the 
most trustworthy and valuable pictures of Indian royal 
state that have come down to us from colonial days. Wins- 
low found Massasoit occupying a wigwam only a little 
larger than those of his subjects. The sleeping place was 
a low platform of boards covered with a thin mat. On this 
bed, says Winslow, Massasoit placed his visitors, with him- 
self and his wife at one end and the Englishmen at the 
other, and two more of Massasoit's men passed by and upon 
them, so that they were worse weary of the lodging than 
of the journey. As the sachem had not been apprised of 
Winslow's projected visit, he had made no provisions for 
his entertainment. No supper whatsoever was secured that 
night, and not until one o'clock of the next afternoon was 
food to be had. Then two large fish, which had just been 
shot (with arrows, of course), were boiled and placed be- 
fore the sachem's guests, now numbering forty or more 
besides the two Englishmen. 

In 1623 tidings reached Plymouth that Massasoit was 
sick and likely to die. Edward Winslow was therefore 
sent to visit him a second time. With him went a young 
English gentleman who was wintering at Plymouth and 
who desired much to see the country. His name was John 



OLD BRISTOL ii 

Hampden, a name destined to become famous wherever the 
Enghsh language was spoken. The great John Hampden 
was born in 1594. He would have been twenty-nine years 
old at this time. He had as yet done nothing whatever to 
make himself famous and was a comparatively inconspicu- 
ous man, notwithstanding the prominent position his family 
had held for centuries in England. There is no record of 
his presence in England at this time. Like Oliver Crom- 
well he may have been considering a residence in America 
among men of his own religious faith, and for this reason 
may have made a preliminary visit to this country. Green, 
discussing in his "History of the English People" Crom- 
well's scheme for emigrating to America, says : "It is more 
certain that John Hampden purchased a tract of land on 
the Narragansett." Most important of all, the name of 
John Hampden appears in the list of the Charter Members 
of the Colony of Connecticut. 

As long as he lived Massasoit remained the firm friend 
of the colonists. Upon his death, in 1662, his son Wam- 
sutta (or Alexander) headed the Wampanoag tribe for a 
year, and then came Philip, Massasoit's second son. Philip 
was a foe to the white men, made such by English treat- 
ment of his tribe. He was one of the ablest Indian leaders 
this country has produced, a wonderful organizer, a skillful 
diplomatist. From tribe to tribe he journeyed, inducing 
them to rest from their interminable wars and to turn their 
weapons against the common enemy of all. But for an 
accident which caused hostilities to begin a little while be- 
fore the year (1676) Philip had fixed upon, the colonists 
would have been swept from the land. The war began in 
1675, and Capt. Benjamin Church, the conqueror of Philip, 
wrote an account of it. Benjamin Church was one of our 



12 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

greatest "Indian fighters." He had lain in their wigwams, 
he had studied their character. Naturally and inevitably 
he came at last to the leadership of the colonial forces. 
When Philip's plans had all come to naught, the Wam- 
panoag sachem came back to Mt. Hope, to make his last 
stand and to die. Death came to him from a bullet fired 
by one of his own men who had taken service in Capt. 
Church's company. In 1876, on the two hundredth anni- 
versary of his death, the Rhode Island Historical Society, 
with appropriate ceremonies, placed a boulder monument 
on the top of Mt. Hope, with this inscription : 

KING PHILIP, AUGUST 12, 1676. 0. S. 

Beside Cold Spring on the west side of the hill a massive 
block of granite records that 

IN THE MIERY SWAMP 1 66 FEET W. S. W. FROM THIS SPRING, 

ACCORDING TO TRADITION, KING PHILIP FELL, 

AUGUST 12, 1676. O. S. 

The Mt. Hope lands should have fallen to Plymouth by 
right of conquest, as they were included in the territory 
originally granted to that colony. But both the Colony 
of Massachusetts Bay and the Colony of Rhode Island and 
Providence Plantations claimed a portion of the spoils. So 
delegates of the several colonies were sent to argue the 
case before Charles II. Singularly enough another claimant 
appeared in the person of John Crowne, a poet. Crowne 
was a native of Nova Scotia. His father had purchased 
a large tract of land in that country which had become prac- 
tically valueless because of the cession of Nova Scotia to 



OLD BRISTOL 13 

the French. He therefore asked that the small tract of 
land which had lately come into English possession should 
be turned over to him as a compensation. But Mt. Hope, 
though belonging to the English Crown, was not to be 
Crowne land. The Plymouth Colony agents claimed that 
the tract, comprising almost 7000 acres, part of it good 
soil and much of it rocky, mountainous and barren, for 
which they had fought and bled, should be awarded to 
them, more especially because it would afford to them the 
seaport which they lacked. Their arguments were con- 
vincing and the land was awarded to Plymouth by special 
grant, January 12, 1680. The king among other things 
demanded a c|uit rent annually of seven beaver skins. No| 
other royal grant was made of conquered lands, but con- 
flicting claims necessitated this. 

Plymouth Colony at once placed the lands on the market, 
and September 14, 1680, sold them for $1,100 to four men 
of Boston, John Walley, Nathaniel Byfield, Stephen Bur- 
ton and Nathaniel Oliver. The first three of these became 
residents of the town they founded. Of them, Byfield was 
the ablest and most distinguished. He came of good stock. 
His father was of the Westminster Assembly of Divines. 
His mother was sister of Juxon, bishop of London and 
later archbishop of Canterbury, who was a personal friend 
of Charles I, and attended that ill fated monarch upon the 
scaffold. Byfield was the wealthiest of the settlers. He 
had one residence upon Poppasquash near the head of that 
peninsula, and one upon what is now Byfield Street in the 
south part of the town. He was a man of unusual ability 
and large w^ealth. He was also a man of great liberality 
in all his dealings with the town. His public service was 
continuous and distinguished. His liberal mind resisted 



14 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the insane fanaticism of the people during their dekision 
on the subject of witchcraft, and in his will he left a be- 
quest "to all and every minister of Christ of every denomi- 
nation in Boston." He lived forty-four years in Bristol, 
only leaving the town when his advanced age made the 
greater comforts of Boston necessary. 

John Walley was also of good stock, his father being 
rector of one of the London churches. In 1690 he com- 
manded the land forces of William Phipps in the expedition 
against Canada. He also, in his old age, was forced by 
disease to seek a more luxurious abode in Boston. Stephen 
Burton was said to have been a graduate of Oxford. He 
was undoubtedly the most scholarly man of the four pro- 
prietors. Oliver, a rich Bostonian, never resided in Bristol 
but sold his share to Nathan Hayman, another wealthy 
Boston merchant. 

With men like these as sponsors for the new settlement, 
it was not difficult to secure settlers. The most noted among 
them was Benjamin Church, the Lidian fighter already men- 
tioned. Capt. Church built a house upon Constitution 
Street. (Church Street was not named in his honor. Upon 
that street stood the edifice which gave it its name, the 
building in which the members of the Church of England 
worshipped. There were many streets named for a like 
reason in colonial days.) He was the first representative 
of the town in the general court of Plymouth Colony and 
was many times elected to public office. In his later years 
he made his home in Little Compton, whence many of his 
descendants drifted back to Bristol. Because the town was 
to be the seaport of Plymouth Colony, many of the des- 
cendants of the Mayflower Pilgrims naturally came to dwell 
within its borders. In choosing Bristol for its name, the 



OLD BRISTOL 15 

settlers cherished a hope that, as in the case of its EngHsh 
namesake, it would become the great city upon the west. 
Boston on the east shore was the London of Massachusetts. 

The new town was laid out on a liberal scale, with side 
streets crossing each other at right angles, and a spacious 
"common" in the center of the settlement. The grand 
articles stipulated that all houses should be two stories 
high, with not less than two good rooms on a floor. As 
most of the settlers could not well spare the time, if they 
had the means, for building a house with four rooms upon 
a floor, the "camelopard" type of dwelling was much in 
evidence. This presented a goodly appearance to the eye 
of him who stood directly in front, but degenerated greatly 
when one shifted his position, the roof slooping severely 
and persistently down to a woodpile. One chimney was 
deemed sufficient for a house. We should deem such a one 
more than sufficient. If of brick it was about fourteen feet 
square; if of stone, about twenty feet. All the chimneys 
had immense fireplaces, into which a man could sometimes 
walk without stooping, and all were admirably adapted to 
keep a house cold. The rooms were abominably drafty, 
and the high backed settle was an absolute necessity. A 
great pile of logs might be blistering the faces while the 
snow was drifting in through the cracks upon the backs. 

The first house built is still standing just north of the 
town bridge. Deacon Nathaniel Bosworth was its builder, 
an ancestor of those who own it today. Only the south- 
western part of the present structure was the work of Dea- 
con Bosworth. The best house was naturally that of By- 
field. It was two stories high, with a barn roof, and was 
nearly square, thirty by thirty-eight feet. It was torn down 
in 1833, ^^^ ^ ^^'"^^ j*^'^ the destroyers had. The chimney 



i6 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

stood in the center of the house. It was built of imported 
bricks held together by mortar mixed with shell lime. This 
mortar had become hard as stone. When the chimney was 
overthrown it fell to the ground almost unbroken, as an 
oak tree would fall. Byfield had another house at the head 
of the harbor on Poppasquash. In each room were deep 
fireplaces, across which ran an oaken beam a foot square. 
One winter morning the owner of the house was surprised, 
when he came down stairs, to find the house even colder 
than usual. The front door was open and the floor was 
covered with snow drifts. i\s the door was never locked 
the phenomenon interested him but little, and he hastened 
out to feed his cattle. One ox was missing and the farmer 
went back to the house to organize a searching party, but 
as he opened the door and turned his eyes toward the fire- 
place, he changed his plans. There lay the huge creature 
tranquilly chewing the cud of complete contentment. It 
had found the door ajar, pushed it open and established 
itself comfortably upon the still warm ashes. 

The town was founded for "purposes of trade and com- 
merce" and early its sails began to whiten the seas. Nat- 
urally the first commerce was coastwise only. Then vessels 
sought the ports of the West Indies and Spanish Main, 
laden most frequently with that bulb whose fragrance lin- 
gers longest in the nostrils, the onion. The culture of this 
vegetable was one of the three things for which the town 
was noted for more than two centuries. 

There once dwelt in Bristol a man named Sammy Usher, 
who was noted for his irascibility not less than for his caus- 
tic tongue. One day a visitor from Brown University was 
introduced to him. This young man, though a sophomore, 
was yet somewhat fresh, and Sammy did not like him. He 



OLD BRISTOL , 17 

said, "Mr. Usher, I hear that Bristol is noted for three 
things, its geese, girls and onions. What do you do with 
them all?" "Oh," said Usher, "we marry our girls as soon 
as they grow up, we ship our onions to Cuba, and we send 
our geese to college." The first recorded shipment, how- 
ever, was not of onions. November 6, 1686, Byfield placed 
a number of his horses on board the Bristol Merchant bound 
for Surinam. Possibly they may have been of the Narra- 
gansett pacer breed for which the south county was so long 
famous. Very early in the town's history, sails were turned 
to the coast of Africa. The voyage was the most hazardous 
that could be taken, but the returns from a successful ven- 
ture were enormous. There was profit on each leg of the 
voyage. The first leg was from the home port, with the 
hold filled with casks of New England rum and small crates 
of trinkets. One cask was ordinarily enough to secure a 
slave, but before the cargo was complete, all hands were 
likely to be down with coast fever. When the crew were 
again strong enough to work the vessel, the "middle pas- 
sage" to the West Indies was made, and the live freight, 
which had been handled with as great care as are the cattle 
on the Atlantic transports today, was exchanged for casks 
of molasses. Then came the last leg of the voyage. The 
molasses was carried to Bristol to be converted into rum. 
This trade the town shared with Newport and Providence. 
No stigma whatever was attached to the slave traffic as 
carried on in the seventeenth century and for the greater 
part of the eighteenth. The voyages, while always dan- 
gerous, were not always profitable. The vessels engaged 
in them were ordinarily small; sometimes they were sloops 
of less than a hundred tons, A fleet of them could be 
stowed away in the hold of a Lusitania. They had to be 



i8 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

small and of light draft in order to run up the shallow rivers 
to whose banks their human cargo was driven. Lying at 
anchor in the stifling heat, with no wind to drive away the 
swarming insect life, the deadly coast fever would descend 
upon a ship, and, having swept away half its crew, leave 
those who survived too weak to hoist the sails. The cap- 
tains were, for the most part, God fearing men, working- 
hard to support their families at home. One piously in- 
forms his owners that "we have now been twenty days 
upon the coast and by the blessing of God shall soon have 
a good cargo." The number of negroes taken on board a 
ship was never large until the trade was declared to be 
piratical. Then conditions changed horribly. It did not 
pay to take more on board than could be delivered in the 
West Indies in prime condition. They were not packed 
more closely than were the crews of the privateers of whom 
we shall read later on. 

Naturally not a few slaves found their way to Bristol. 
When the first slave was brought there we do not know. 
Nathaniel Byfield, in his will, gives directions for the dis- 
position of his "negro slave Rose, brought to Bristol from 
the West Indies in the spring of 1718," Quickly they be- 
came numerous. The census of 1774 records 114 blacks 
in a total population of 1209, almost one-tenth. At first 
they lived on the estates of their owners, and were known 
by his name, if they had any surname. After the Revolu- 
tionary War, when slavery had been abolished (mainly 
because it was unprofitable), they gathered into a district 
by themselves on the outskirts of the town. This region 
was called "Gorea" from that part of the coast of Africa 
with which the slave traders were most familiar. It con- 
tinued to be known as such until the buildings of the great 



OLD BRISTOL 19 

rubber works crowded it out of existence in the early '70s 
of the last century. 

Naturally and inevitably the town became involved in 
the contest that resulted in the independence of America. 
The affair of the Gaspee was the first in which her people 
participated. The Gaspee was an armed schooner stationed 
in Narragansett Bay for the prevention of smuggling. 
Smuggling was as much in vogue in American waters as 
in the waters surrounding the British Isles, and was re- 
garded with no more disfavor in one case than in the other. 
The commander of the vessel was Lieutenant Thomas Dud- 
dington, a man who was entirely lacking in tact, and who 
carried himself with such haughty arrogance as to make 
himself most obnoxious. One day while chasing one of 
the packet sloops that plied between New York and Provi- 
dence, he ran aground on Namquit (now Gaspee) Point. 
His "chase" escaped and carried the joyful tidings of his 
plight to Providence. At once drummers were sent through 
the streets proclaiming the situation of the vessel, and call- 
ing for volunteers to destroy her before the next high tide. 
Eight long boats were furnished by John Brown, the lead- 
ing merchant of the town, which were quickly filled by a 
rejoicing band. No attempt at disguise was made by those 
who took part in the expedition, but the oars were muffled 
to enable the boats to make the attack without being seen. 
As they drew near the vessel, a little after midnight, they 
were joined by a whaleboat containing a party from Bristol 
under the command of Captain Simeon Potter.** 

Their approach was discovered by the watch upon the 
Gaspee, and as the boats dashed forward they were fired 

8 The commander of the Prince Charles of Lorraine, of whom we 
shall write later. 



20 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

upon from the schooner. The fire was at once returned 
by the attacking party, and the vessel was boarded and 
captured after a short but desperate struggle. In this strug- 
gle Lieutenant Duddington was wounded, though not seri- 
ously. The crew were captured, bound and set on shore. 
The vessel was set on fire and completely destroyed. Then, 
having been entirely successful in their expedition, the 
boats rowed joyfully homeward. Those who took part in 
the exploit made no effort to conceal it and some of them 
even boasted of what they had done. The British Govern- 
ment at once offered a large reward for information that 
would lead to the conviction of the bold offenders. Some 
of them were among the foremost men in the Colony and 
almost every one knew their names, the name of Abraham 
Whipple especially being on the lips of all the people, but 
no man of any character could be found to testify against 
them and none of them were ever brought to trial. The 
affair took place on June lo, 1772. It was the first contest 
in which British blood was shed in an expedition openly 
organized against the forces of the mother country, and 
it differed from all the other preliminary encounters because 
of the character of those engaged in it. Other outbreaks 
were the work of an irresponsible mob, Crispus Attucks, 
for instance, who fell in the so called Boston Massacre, was 
a mulatto and the men whom he led were of his type. But 
some of the leading men of Rhode Island sat on the thwarts 
of the nine boats, and their boldness seems almost incredible 
to us of the present day. It shows that while public senti- 
ment at Newport and New York and the other great seats 
of commerce along the coast may have favored the king, 
the people of the Providence Plantations were already pre- 
pared to sever their relations with England. 



OLD BRISTOL 21 

The only "lyric" to commemorate the affair came from 
the pen of Captain Thomas Swan of Bristol, one of those 
who took part in it. His effusion has never appeared in 
any history of American literature, for good and sufficient 
reasons, but it is printed in full in Munro's "History of 
Bristol." The participation of the Bristol men in the Gaspee 
affair is often denied by "out of town" people. I have no 
doubt respecting the matter. My own grandmother, born 
in 1784, the daughter of a soldier of the Revolution who 
was born in 1762 and lived until 1821, and whose grand- 
father, born in 1731, lived until 18 17, firmly beheved in it. 
She had had opportunities for talking the subject over with 
two generations who were living on June 10, 1772. 

In January, 1881, Bishop Smith of Kentucky, born in 
Bristol in 1794 and a graduate of Brown in 181 6, wrote to 
me calling my attention to a slight difference between the 
"Swan Song," as I had given it in my "History of Bristol," 
and a version pasted upon the back of a portrait of Thomas 
Swan's father by Thomas Swan himself. Capt. Swan was 
Bishop Smith's uncle. The Bishop wrote, "I should not 
have troubled you on so inconsiderable a point had not the 
tradition in our family been that tJic Bristol boat was 
manned by men in the disguise of Narragansett Indians/' 

When Bishop Smith penned those lines several men were 
living in Bristol who had heard the story from Captain 
Swan's own lips. He delighted in telling it and was accus- 
tomed to give the names of Bristol participants. Those 
names had unhappily escaped the memory of his auditors. 
The correspondence on the subject of the Gaspee, which 
occurred during the Revolutionary War between Abraham 
Whipple and Captain Sir James Wallace, the commander 
of the British naval forces in Narragansett Bay, is worthy 
of another reproduction: 



22 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Wallace to Whipple: 

"You, Abraham Whipple, on the loth June, 1772, burned 
his Majesty's vessel, the Gaspee, and I will hang you at the 
yard arm. — James Wallace." 

Whipple to Wallace: 

"To Sir James Wallace ; Sir ; Always catch a man before 
you hang him. — Abraham Whipple." 

On October 7, 1775, the town was bombarded by a British 
fleet. The squadron consisted of three ships of war, one 
bomb brig, one schooner and some smaller vessels, fifteen 
sail in all. They had sailed up from Newport under the 
command of Sir James Wallace. A boat's crew was sent 
on shore to demand sheep from the town. As they were 
not forthcoming, the boat returned to the ship and shortly 
afterward the whole fleet began "a most heavy cannonading, 
heaving also shells and 'carcasses' into the town." (Car- 
casses were vessels bound together with hoops and filled 
with combustibles.) Singularly enough, no one was killed, 
though many buildings were struck by balls. The next 
morning the sheep demanded were furnished and the fleet 
sailed away. An epidemic of dysentery was raging at the 
time, seventeen persons having died within a fortnight; 
and the fact that at least one hundred sick persons would 
have to be removed if the cannonading was resumed in- 
fluenced the town committee to provide the supply de- 
manded. One life, however, went out because of the 
bombardment. The Rev. John Burt, the aged pastor of the 
Congregational Church, had for a long time been sick and 
feeble. When the air was filled with missiles he fled from 
his house, no one seeing him, and wandered away, weak 
and bewildered. The next morning, as he did not appear 
in the meeting house at the hour of service, his congrega- 



OLD BRISTOL 23 

tion went out to seek him. They found at last him lying 
dead upon his face in a field of ripened corn. 

About three years later, on Sunday, May 25, 1778, most 
of the houses in the center of the town were burned by 
the British. Five hundred British and Hessian soldiers 
landed on the "West Shore," marched quickly through War- 
ren to the Kickamuit River, and there burned seventy or 
more flat-boats that had been gathered together by the col- 
onists for the purpose of making an expedition against the 
enemy. The raiders set fire to some buildings in Warren 
and then proceeded along the main road to Bristol, making 
prisoners of the men found in the farm houses standing 
near the highway. A force of perhaps three hundred militia 
had been hastily gathered at Bristol to oppose them. But, 
as is almost always the case, the number of the marauding 
troops was greatly exaggerated and the American com- 
manding officer did not deem himself strong enough to 
oppose them. Withdrawing in the direction of Mount Hope 
he left the town to their mercy. The torch was first applied 
to Parson Burt's house, which stood near the Congrega- 
tional Meeting House. 

Mr. Burt had died during the bombardment, as has been 
before related, but he had been fearless in his denunciation 
of royal tyranny during his life and his house was burned 
as a warning. Then the other buildings southward along 
the main street were set on fire, including the residence of 
Deputy Governor Bradford, this last being the finest house 
in town. One of the Governor's negro servants had just 
begun his dinner when he saw the flames bursting forth. 
He was quite equal to the occasion. Running to the bury- 
ing ground on the Common, not far away, he seated him- 
self, frying pan in hand, upon a tombstone and calmly 



24 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

finished his meal. Thirty or more buildings were burned, 
among them being the edifice of the Church of England, 
Saint Michael's Church. This last structure was destroyed 
through a mistake, the incendiaries supposing that they were 
burning the Dissenters' Meeting House. The sexton of 
Saint Michael's refused to believe that his church was 
burned. "It can't be," he said, "for I have the key in my 
pocket." From this time until the close of the war the 
tread of marching feet was heard almost daily. The sol- 
diers, however, were only militiamen summoned hastily 
together to defend their homes. They were poorly drilled 
and still more poorly armed, the kind of soldier that springs 
to arms at an instant's call. The immediate danger having 
passed, they returned to their farms and their workshops. 

Until October 25, 1779, when the British forces left New- 
port, the fortunes of those who dwelt upon the Mount Hopp 
Lands were hazardous in the extreme. Lafayette had estab- 
lished his headquarters in the north part of the town but 
was soon forced to remove them to "a safer place behind 
Warren." The peninsula was so easily accessible that raids 
upon its shores were frequent. One result of the marauding 
expeditions was the cutting down of the forests that had 
lined the shores of Narragansett Bay. This was especially 
notable in the case of the island of Prudence, just at the 
mouth of Bristol harbor. Today the island is almost tree- 
less, no attempt at reforestation having been made. The 
people of Bristol were wise in their generation and now 
from the harbor the town seems to nestle in a forest. 

The winter of 1779-80 was one of the most severe ever 
known in the Colonies. For six weeks the bay was frozen 
from shore and the ice extended far out to sea. Wood 
in most of the towns sold for $20 a cord. The prices of 



OLD BRISTOL 25 

all kinds of provisions soared in like manner. Corn sold 
for four silver dollars a bushel and potatoes for two dollars. 
What their prices were in the depreciated Rhode Island 
paper currency we can only imagine. While the bay was 
still frozen some of the barracks on Poppasquash, that had 
been used by the French allies, were moved across the har- 
bor on the ice. One of them is still used as a dwelling 
house. It stands on the west side of High Street just north 
of Bradford. From 1774 to 1782 the population of the 
town decreased 14.6 per cent. More noteworthy still, in 
that same period the percentage of decrease in the case of 
the blacks was more than thirty per cent. 

In 1 78 1 the town was first honored by the presence of 
George Washington. He passed through it on his way to 
Providence. It was a great day for the people of the place. 
They all turned out to greet the hero, standing in double 
lines as he rode through the streets. "Marm" Burt's school 
children were especially in evidence. This lady was the 
widow of the Parson Burt who had died during the bom- 
bardment. She had sustained herself since her husband's 
death by keeping a "dame's school." To impress the oc- 
casion upon the minds of her pupils she made them learn 
these lines: 

"In seventeen hundred and eighty-one 
I saw General Washington." 

Imagine the General's emotions as he heard them singing 
the verse, at the top of their voices of course, as he passed. 

Washington afterward made several visits to the town. 
In 1793 he spent a week at the home of Governor Brad- 
ford, at "the Mount," Bradford being then a member of 
the United States Senate. The Bradford house is still 
standing. 



26 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Rhode Island was the last of the "Old Thirteen" to adopt 
the Federal Constitution. Then as always she chafed at the 
domination of Massachusetts. Because Bristol had been a 
part of Massachusetts before it became a part of Rhode 
Island it was still greatly influenced by the ideas of the 
"Bay Colony." When in 1788 the question of adopting 
the Constitution was submitted to the people of Rhode 
Island, Bristol and Little Compton (which had also been 
a part of Massachusetts) were the only towns in which 
a majority in favor of the adoption was obtained. A great 
celebration took place in 1790 when the State became a 
member of the United States of America. 

At once the energy which had lain dormant during the 
Revolutionary War revived. Commerce again became ac- 
tive. Evidence of this was manifested by the building of 
new distilleries. One, erected by the leading firm of ship 
owners, was opened in 1792. They were preparing for 
a renewal of the trade with Africa. For thirty-five years 
thereafter two hundred gallons of rum were here each day 
distilled. At one time five distilleries were in active opera- 
tion. The last of them closed its doors in 1830, the busi- 
ness having ceased to be profitable. 

In the first quarter of the last century two great religious 
revivals transformed the town. They began in Saint 
Michael's Church in the rectorship of Bishop Griswold. 
The town then numbered about two thousand inhabitants, 
almost all of whom were more or less connected with the 
sea. The first among the laymen to take part in the move- 
ment was a sea captain who had just returned from a voyage 
to the Island of Trinidad. Before he left Bristol, the un- 
wonted fervor of Bishop Griswold's sermons and discourses 
had turned his thoughts toward the attainment of the holier 



OLD BRISTOL 27 

and higher Hfe, whose glories the bishop was ever placing 
before his people. The awful solemnity of the ocean had 
completed the lesson. On Saturday night he returned from 
his voyage. The next day, when the bishop had finished 
his sermon, the emotions that stirred the soul of the sailor 
entirely overcame the modesty that usually kept him back 
from the public notice. Rising from his seat, he went for- 
ward to the old wine-glass pulpit in which the preacher was 
yet standing, and conversed with him earnestly for a few 
moments, while the congregation looked on with amaze- 
ment at the unusual interruption. With that benignant 
smile which marked his gentle nature, Bishop Griswold 
assented to the request that was preferred ; and placing his 
hand upon the shoulder of the eager enthusiast, he turned 

to the congregation and said : "My friends, Captain 

wishes to tell you what the Lord has done for his soul." 
Then the quiet sailor told the congregation the story of 
the change that had been wrought in him; told it without 
a thought of the unusual part he was assuming; told it in 
the simplest words, with no attempt at eloquence or effect, 
but with the wondrous power of God's love so plainly be- 
fore his eyes that the minds of all his hearers went with 
him upon the sea, and felt the struggle which had brought 
his soul out of darkness into light. Never, even, had the 
inspired words of their pastor stirred the people of St. 
Michael's Church more strongly. When he ceased there 
was hardly a dry eye in the congregation. Only a few 
well chosen words did the bishop add to intensify the les- 
son, and then dismissed his people with the usual bene- 
diction. 

From that day the revival became general. Through the 
town it spread, until the minds of all were turned to 



28 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

thoughts of the Hfe that was to come. The sound of the 
workman's hammer was unheard for a season, the horses 
stood idle in their stalls, the noise of merry laughter ceased 
as the crowds of serious worshippers poured onward to 
the churches. For days these remarkable scenes were to 
be witnessed ; their effect could be observed for years. 

The second revival came in 1820. Like the first it began 
in Saint Michael's Church. It lasted for about three months. 
The first meeting was held in a private house. The Rev. 
Dr. Stephen H. Tyng, writing sixty years later, said : "It 
was with unbounded surprise that I went into the house 
at the hour appointed. It was crowded in every room, 
staircase and entry, as if some unusually crowded funeral 
were there. But for ministering to this people, hungry for 
the bread of life, I was there alone. They had placed a 
Bible and Prayer-book on the first landing of the stairs. 
The people were crowded above me and below me, as far 
as my eye could reach, in the most eager attention to the 
Word. It was the most solemn assembly I had ever seen, 
and its impression upon my mind and memory was over- 
whelming and abiding. But this was the commencement 
of months of work of a similar description, and from this 
day we had a similar meeting appointed for every evening. 
These were held in various rooms and houses throughout 
the town. The evening meetings were usually held in the 
Academy Hall. My whole time for about three months 
was given up to this one work. Three times every day 
I was engaged in addressing different assemblies in different 
parts of the town and of the surrounding country, and in 
conversing with awakened and anxious persons connected 
with these meetings. Such a scene in human society as 
Bristol then displayed, I had never imagined. The whole 



OLD BRISTOL 29 

town was given up to this one work. The business of the 
world was for a time suspended. The stores were in many 
instances closed, as if the whole week were a Sabbath." 

As in the former case the work spread through all the 
churches. Crowds came from surrounding towns to gaze 
upon the remarkable spectacle the town afforded. Such 
revivals would now be impossible. The busy manufactur- 
ing town of today would pay slight attention to exhorta- 
tions to which the ears that were accustomed to tales of 
horrible disaster upon the ocean lent ready attention. More- 
over, the descendants of the old colonial stock are compara- 
tively few in number, and the new foreign element which 
forms the great majority of the population is not to be 
moved by religious appeals as were those whose lives were 
dominated by Puritan traditions. 

The maritime element always furnished the most pic- 
turesque part of the Bristol story. Until half a century ago 
the boys of the town had the names of the famous ships 
and the exploits of the most famous captains at the tongue's 
end. The most noted captains were Simeon Potter, John 
De Wolf and James De Wolf, of whom detailed accounts 
will be given later. We idealized those seamen, especially 
Simeon Potter. One sailor who was not a captain but a 
ship's surgeon had had a most remarkable experience. He 
was an inveterate smoker and his inordinate use of the weed 
once saved his life. He was shipwrecked upon a cannibal 
island in the Pacific ocean. His fellow sufferers were all 
eaten by their captors. Because he was so flavored with 
tobacco, he was not deemed fit to be eaten at once by the 
savage epicures, and so lived to be rescued. He was also 
a most profane man. One day after a long attack of fever, 
which had wasted him almost to a skeleton, he ventured 



30 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

out for a walk. Unfortunately, he had not noted the wind. 
He wore a long cloak and the wind was fair and heavy. 
Having once started before it, he was not able to stop, but 
went on, gathering speed and scattering profanity, until 
friendly arms at last rescued him, entirely exhausted except 
as to his supply of oaths. Depraved boys when caught 
smoking sometimes brought forward his case in extenua- 
tion of their own crime. 

Boyish sports before the introduction of baseball in the 
"early '60s" were largely nautical. As a matter of course 
every boy learned to swim almost as soon as he learned to 
walk. Before his anxious mother had really begun to worry 
about him he was diving from a bowsprit or dropping from 
a yard arm. One man whom I know still regards a forced 
swim of about half a mile which he took from an overturned 
skiff, at the age of nine, as the most delightful episode of 
his career. (He forgot to tell his mother about it until 
a considerable time, i.e., the swimming season, had elapsed.) 
One of the amusements of that olden time was unique. 
When we were about ten years old we were wont, as soon 
as school was dismissed, to hasten down to the wharves, 
"swarm" up the rigging of some of the vessels lying there, 
and having reached the point where the shrouds stopped, to 
"shin up" the smooth topmast and place our caps upon the 
caps of the masts. The one who got his cap on a mast first 
was of course the best boy. Singularly enough, I never 
remember to have proclaimed to my parents the proud oc- 
casions when I was "it." My great chum in those days 
was Benjamin F. Tilley, who died quite recently, an Ad- 
miral in the United States Navy and one of the best loved 
officers in the service. When he was in Providence a few 
years ago, in command of the gunboat Newport, we in- 



OLD BRISTOL 31 

dulged largely in reminiscences of our boyhood, and among 
other things "shinned" up those masts again. Very 
strangely Tilley could not remember that he had ever pro- 
claimed to his parents that he was "it." Modest always 
were the Bristol boys in the days of my youth. Looking 
back upon these episodes with the added knowledge fifty 
years have brought, I feel sure that if I had told my father 
of my prowess, he would have said in his quiet way, "Per- 
haps you would better not say anything to your mother 
about it," and would have gone away chuckling. He had 
been "it" himself. For we boys were simply exemplifying 
the traditions of our race. We were only doing what our 
forebears had done for generations. 

In the earliest years of the town the names of streets 
in cities across the ocean were more familiar to its in- 
habitants than were those of the towns of the other Col- 
onies. In 1690 fifteen of its vessels were engaged in foreign 
commerce, and the number of such vessels steadily increased 
until the Revolutionary War. When that struggle broke 
out fifty hailed from the port. Add to this the number 
of craft of every description engaged in the coasting trade 
and one can easily imagine the crowded condition of the 
harbor. Ship building was at one time a prominent in- 
dustry. Statistics are not readily accessible but we know 
that from 1830 to 1856 sixty vessels were here built and 
rigged. After 1856 none of any importance were con- 
structed until, in 1863, the Herreshoffs began to send from 
their yard the yachts that were to "show their heels" to all 
rivals. The decline of commerce dates from the revival 
of the whale fishery. In the earliest colonial days whales 
were captured along the coasts of New England by means 
of boats sent out from the shore whenever one of the great 



32 TALES. OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

fishes came in sight. This was not infrequently. (It was 
a whale cast up on the shore that saved Thorfinn Karlsefni 
from starvation when the Norsemen made their second visit 
to Vinland.) In the year 1825 the first whaler was fitted 
out for a cruise. The venture was unusually successful 
and other ships were quickly placed in commission. In 1837 
the arrival of sixteen vessels "from a whaling cruise" is 
recorded on the books of the Custom House. The most 
noted of those whalers was the General Jackson, prize of 
the privateer Yankee. Of her more anon. In 1837 the 
Bristol whaling fleet numbered nineteen ships. 

The bell which summoned the operatives of the first cot- 
ton mill to their work really sounded the death knell of the 
shipping industry. The man whose maritime ventures had 
been most profitable was quick to recognize the fact. James 
De Wolf was the first of Bristolians to transfer his capital 
from ships to factories. With the building of mills agri- 
culture began to decline though for more than half a cen- 
tury onions and other vegetables continued to be exported 
to the West India Islands. The erection of the great build- 
ings of the National Rubber Company completed the trans- 
formation of the town. 

Very different is the place from the old Puritan town of 
the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries; very different in- 
deed from the Bristol of sixty years ago. Sixty years ago 
the Puritan traditions still dominated. This fact was 
especially evident on Sunday. That day was observed with 
the strictness of the old Puritan Sabbath. Worldly amuse- 
ments were frowned upon. Every one was expected to go 
to church in the morning, and a very large proportion of 
the population attended a second religious service in the 
afternoon or evening. If golf had been known no one 



OLD BRISTOL 33 

would have ventured to play it. Social ostracism would 
have followed any attempt at a match irame of ball. The 
only foreign element was the Irish. Very nearly all the 
Irish had been born on "the old sod." Today the Irish 
element is almost the dominant one and the descendants 
of the first immigrants are as thoroughly American in their 
ideals and sentiments as are those who trace their ancestry 
to the Founders of 1680. Sixty years ago there were per- 
haps a dozen names upon the tax lists that were not derived 
from the British Isles. No foreign tongue except the Span- 
ish of the frequent Cuban visitors was heard upon the 
streets. Today the Italian language is everywhere heard 
and Italian names fill the pages of the directory. With the 
Italians have come also Canadian French and Portu- 
guese. Walking over the "Common" one day not long ago 
I passed three groups of men and boys and heard from them 
not one word of English. One group was Italian, another 
French, the third Portuguese. 

In the olden days the business was transacted along the 
wharves on Thames Street. That street was crowded with 
drays loaded with the products of every land, while sailors 
of all nations lounged about the water front. Today a 
sailor is a rare sight. The conmierce has vanished and 
not a vessel of any size hails from the port. Even the pro- 
nunciation of the name of the street by the water has been 
changed and most of the dwellers upon that thoroughfare 
do not know that they are living upon the "Tems" street 
of our fathers. By day even in summer the streets of the 
town are almost empty, except for the visitors, and half 
the people are at work in the factories. But there is im- 
mense life in the place yet. The population is increasing 
by leaps and bounds and the wealth per capita is increasing 



34 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

in the same way. When the great mill wheels cease to turn, 
a hurrying throng of operatives crowds the highways. Al- 
though they are now for the most part alien in speech and 
thought, their children, born in the old colonial port, will 
grow up imbued with the spirit of the place and will be 
Americans, Americans without the hyphen. The old sea- 
faring spirit still exists, though mightily transformed. No 
longer do Bristol sails whiten far distant seas, no longer 
do the argosies bring into the harbor the products of India, 
the silks of China and Japan. From the port today go forth 
vessels of a very different type. They lack the capacious 
holds of the olden days but they carry sails larger than any 
the old captains ever dreamed of. Their business is not 
to carry merchandise; they sail forth from Narragansett 
Bay to lead the yachting fleets of the world. 



PART I 

SIMEON POTTER AND THE PRINCE CHARLES 
OF LORRAINE 



o^' | | >««»m U ' III '1 



I— SIMEON POTTER 

Most famous among the names of the old sea captains 
of Bristol is that of Simeon Potter. For almost half a 
century Potter was the most conspicuous figure in the town 
in which he was born. He was also one of the influential 
men in the Colony and State of Rhode Island for a large 
part of that time. 

Simeon Potter was born in Bristol in the year 1720. His 
father was not a man of fortune and the boy's education 
was almost entirely neglected. His letters, even in advanced 
age, are those of an illiterate man who, apparently, had 
never attempted to remedy the deficiencies of his youth. 
Perhaps this is not to be wondered at. He went forth from 
Bristol an humble sailor lad whose only possessions were 
a sound body and an imperious will. After a comparatively 
few years spent upon the ocean he returned to his native 
town with a purse overflowing with riches, a man to be 
looked up to for the rest of his life. 

His wealth was acquired in "privateering," and tales of 
his captures upon the sea, and especially of his wild maraud- 
ing descents upon foreign coasts, were familiar as household 
words to the ears of the Bristolians of three-quarters of a 
century ago. Those tales lost nothing in the telling and 
in them Potter came to be endowed with attributes he never 
possessed. This was especially the case with his stature. 
Like Charlemagne he continued to grow taller with each 
fifty years after his death. He came in time to be pictured 
as a giant in size and strength, a man whose success was 

37 



38 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

largely due to the might of his arm, and not to any especial 
mental ability. It was not until the narrative which follows 
had been brought to light that we were able to see him as 
he really was, a slight man. Possibly his great wealth rather 
than an overpowering personality may have been the cause 
of his large influence. His fortune was estimated at a 
quarter of a million dollars, which was an enormous sum 
for those days. 

He plunged gladly into the conflicts of the turbulent age, 
and by a happy chance came forth from them all without 
serious injury. When wars ceased his restless energy forced 
him into constant litigations ; he seemed never to be happy 
unless he had some legal contest on his hands. His intense 
pride had much to do with this. Like many self-made men 
he could brook no opposition; he exacted from his towns- 
men the deference invariably rendered by seamen to the 
quarter-deck, and never forgot that his success was due to 
his own unaided efforts. Very soon after the Prince Charles 
had returned from the raid upon Oyapoc it was visited by 
some officers from a British man-of-war then lying in the 
harbor of Newport. They were greatly pleased with the 
trim, man-o'-war appearance of the privateer and expressed 
their approbation of its commander. Unfortunately they 
did so with a patronizing condescension that was exceed- 
ingly galling to the young captain. When at last one of 
them ventured to ask "why he did not apply to his Majesty 
for a commission as the king would undoubtedly give him 
a larger and better ship" he could no longer contain him- 
self. "When I wish for a better ship I will not ask his 
Majesty for one, I will build one myself," he said, and, 
turning on his heel, left the Englishman wondering what 
he could have said that seemed so offensive. 



SIMEON POTTER 39 

Potter left the sea and came back to Bristol to live just 
after the town had been transferred from Massachusetts to 
Rhode Island. He was first chosen to represent the town in 
the General Assembly in 1752, and from that time until the 
Revolution, when he had become an Assistant, an office 
corresponding- to that of a Senator today, his voice was 
continually heard in the colonial councils. After the war 
had really begun his zeal (though not his pugnacity) seems 
to have waned and he ceased to take an active part in the 
affairs of either town or State. Possibly the larger ability, 
the increasing influence and the more striking- personality 
of his tow^nsman, Governor William Bradford, may have 
had something to do with Potter's retirement from partici- 
pation in public life. 

However that may be, when the contest that was to result 
in the independence of the United Colonies began he plunged 
into it with immense delight. These lines in his own hand- 
writing, preserved to the present day by a descendant of 
one of his sisters (he left no children), show clearly his 
mental attitude at that time: 

I love with all my heart 
The independent part. 
To obey the Parliament 
My conscience wont consent. 
I never can abide 
To fight on England's side. 
I pray that God may bless 
The great and Grand Congress. 
This is my mind and heart 
Though none should take my part 
The man thats called a Tory 
To plague is all my glory. 
How righteous is the cause 
To keep the Congress laws! 



40 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

To fight against the King 
Bright Liberty will bring. 
Lord North and England's King 
I hope that they will swing. 
Of this opinion I 
Resolve to live and die 

His participation in the destruction of the Gaspee has 
been already described. When the office of Major-General 
of the Rhode Island Colonial Forces was created his zeal 
and energy had so impressed his fellow members of the 
General Assembly that he was chosen to fill it. His tenure 
of office must have been brief. In 1776 he had been chosen 
Assistant (Assistants were elected by the vote of all the 
freemen of the Colony), but he did not present himself at 
many meetings of the Assembly. In fact so neglectful was 
he of his duties that a vote was passed requesting his reasons 
for absenting himself, and demanding his attendance at 
the next session. Undoubtedly the increased taxes had 
something to do with it. He was the wealthiest citizen of 
Bristol and one of the richest men in the Colony, and the 
possession of money was his chief delight. He could not 
bear to see it taken away from him even though the inde- 
pendence of the Colonies might thereby be assured. (One 
day a young nephew was talking with him and lamenting 
his apparent lack of success. "How, Captain Potter," said 
he, "shall I go to work to make money?" "Make money," 
said Potter, "make money! I would plow the ocean into 
pea porridge to make money.") 

In 1777 his name appears for the last time in the Colonial 
Records. At the Town Meeting held in Bristol in May of 
that year "Colonel Potter was chosen Moderator, but after 
the usual officers were elected he withdrew and refused to 



SIMEON POTTER 41 

serve any longer." A tax collector's account was then pre- 
sented showing that he had neglected to pay all his taxes. 
Three years later, May 10, 1780, it was voted in Town Meet- 
ing "That the Assessors make enquiry and make report to 
the town at the adjournment of the meeting, what part of 
Colonel Potter's taxes remain unpaid, and that Mr. Smith, 
the collector, be desired to apply to the Assessors of the 
town of Swansey to know at what time said Potter began 
to pay taxes in said town, and what part of his personal 
estate has been rated from time to time in said town." Al- 
though he still retained his household in Bristol he had 
taken up his residence in Swansey, where the rate of taxa- 
tion was considerably less than that of Bristol. In that 
Massachusetts town he continued, nominally, to reside for 
the rest of his life. Notwithstanding his residence in an- 
other State he still continued a member of Saint Michael's 
Church. In 1792 a vote of the Vestry was passed, thanking 
him for painting the church edifice, and for other benefac- 
tions, and in 1799 he presented a bell (with a French in- 
scription) to the parish. His name headed the list of 
vestrymen from 1793 until his death. He died, at the age 
of eighty-six, February 20, 1806, leaving no children. His 
estate was by will divided among his nine sisters and their 
descendants. All the beneficiaries did not fare alike. He 
had his favorites and his strong prejudices. As is almost 
always the case popular estimate had exaggerated the value 
of his property. Instead of a quarter of a million, less than 
half that amount was divided among his heirs. The in- 
ventory showed that he had made a great many "wildcat" 
investments. 

From his house on Thames Street the old captain was 
borne to his last resting place in the burying-ground upon 



42 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the Common. It was the most impressive funeral the town 
had witnessed. All the people turned out to see the long 
procession, and to take part in it. The privateering ex- 
ploits of his early life were again retold, the innumerable 
legal battles of his later days were again recounted. Full 
of strife and tumult were the centuries in which his life 
had been passed, stormy and passionate his own career had 
been. He was perhaps the last, he was certainly the most 
successful, of the old sea captains who, as English subjects, 
had sailed forth from Narragansett Bay to make war as 
privateersmen upon the foes of Great Britain. But among 
those who followed his corpse to its final resting place were 
men who in less than a decade were to sail out from Bristol 
harbor in a little private armed vessel whose success as 
a privateer was to surpass his wildest imaginings, a vessel 
that was to collect from English merchants a tribute many 
times exceeding that which he had exacted from the enemies 
of England. The story of that vessel will be told in the 
last chapter of this book. 

Potter was most noted for his raid upon the coast of 
French Guiana of which an account follows. He was cap- 
tain of a typical American privateer when Narragansett 
Bay was noted throughout the Colonies as a nursery of 
privateersmen. Rhode Island furnished more privately 
armed vessels for the service of the mother country during 
the eighteenth century than did any other American Colony. 
From the year 1700 to the Revolution at least one hundred 
and eighty such ships sailed out from its ports. They were 
long and narrow, crowded with seamen for their more 
speedy handling, and manoeuvered with a skill that placed 
the slower ships of the French and Spaniards entirely at 
their mercy. They carried long guns which enabled them 



SIMEON POTTER 43 

to disable their adversaries at a distance, thus preventing 
their enemies from inflicting any damage in return. Be- 
cause built for speed they were of light construction. A 
broadside from a man-of-war would have gone crashing 
through their hulls and sent them at once to the bottom of 
the sea, but the seamanship of their captains always kept 
them out of reach of such a broadside. Their greatest 
danger was from the gales that drove them upon a rocky 
coast. Then no skill of their captains could save them. 
Their slight frames were quickly broken to pieces, some- 
times with the loss of every man on board. The Prince 
Charles of Lorraine was wrecked upon the rocks of Sea- 
connet Point not long after the voyage herein described. 

The kind of warfare in which they engaged would not 
now be regarded as honorable, yet it was then approved 
by all nations. Not only did they seek prizes upon the 
ocean ; a descent upon the coast of the enemy, a plundering 
of a rich town especially if it was undefended, was an ex- 
ploit from which they derived the liveliest satisfaction. 
They preferred that kind of an expedition, for, as was 
always the case with private armed ships, their aim was 
simply to acquire wealth for themselves, not to inflict un- 
profitable damage upon their adversaries. Privateering was 
only a species of legalized piracy as far as these raids were 
concerned. Happily the ruthless bloodshed and the out- 
rages which characterized the raids of the buccaneers and 
other pirates were never charged against sailors on the 
legally commissioned private armed ships. Their trade 
was brutal but they carried it on with the approbation of 
their fellow men because it was a custom that had prevailed 
from time immemorial. 

Very rarely have records of their raids been preserved, 



44 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

more rarely still accounts written by their victims. The 
one which follows was discovered and made public some 
three-quarters of a century ago by Bishop Kip of California. 
At the sale of a famous library in England he purchased a 
set of the "Letters of Jesuit Missionaries from 1 650-1 750," 
bound in fifty or more volumes. In 1875 he published a 
volume containing- translations of the letters relating espe- 
cially to American history. From this volume, which has 
long been out of print, the following account is taken. 

The owners of the Prince Charles of Lorraine were 
Sueton Grant, Peleg Brown and Nathaniel Coddington, Jr., 
of Newport. Simeon Potter of Bristol was her captain, 
and Daniel Brown of Newport was her lieutenant. Among 
the Bristol men on the privateer were Mark Anthony De 
Wolf (founder of the family destined to become most 
famous in the history of the town), clerk; Benjamin Munro, 
master; Michael Phillips, pilot; William Kipp and Jeffrey 
Potter, the last being probably an Indian slave of Potter. 
Upon her return from her cruise Captain Potter was sum- 
moned before an admiralty court, having been accused of 
certain high handed, not to say illegal proceedings. Among 
other things he was charged with having fired upon a Dutch 
vessel while his ship was lying at anchor in Surinam, Dutch 
Guiana. He proved to the satisfaction of the court that he 
had fired upon the Dutch ship at the request of the Captain 
of the Port, in order to "bring her to," his own ship being 
between the vessel and the fort at the time and so preventing 
the fire of the fort. The admiralty judge decided that Pot- 
ter had not been guilty of the offences charged, and that 
he had shown zeal and enterprise worthy of commendation 
and imitation. The trial proceedings combined with Father 
Fauque's narrative give a complete history of the cruise. 



SIMEON POTTER 45 

The privateer sailed from Newport September 8, 1744, 
and arrived at "Wiopock, twelve leagues to the windward 
of Cyan," October 28. Up to that time she had taken no 
prizes. Upon his arrival Potter took thirty-two men and 
made a descent upon the town. They reached it at mid- 
night and were at once fired upon by its garrison, Captain 
Potter receiving a bullet in his left arm. Of course they 
took the fort; garrisons in the tropics were never equal 
to privateersmen as fighters. They took some twenty pris- 
oners (the other defenders having promptly fled), six can- 
non and from sixty to seventy small arms. They remained 
at Wiapock twelve days while they sacked the town, taking 
from it everything of value. Some of the company were sent 
up the river to plunder plantations. All things taken were 
carried to Barbadoes and there condemned as French prop- 
erty, with the exception of some slaves detained at Surinam 
and some personal property which Potter sold at a "vandue" 
on his ship. Having stripped Wiapock (the name of the 
place was Oyapoc but American and English captains were 
never strong on spelling) to their hearts' content, they 
sailed to "Cyann" (Cayenne) and dropped anchor at that 
place November 1 1 . There they tarried four or five days, 
during which they sent plundering expeditions up the river. 
One of these came to grief on a shoal. The twelve men 
who manned the boat were attacked by one hundred and 
thirty soldiers, three of them were killed, four were wounded 
and the others carried to Cyann fort as prisoners. There- 
upon Potter sent a flag of truce to propose an exchange of 
prisoners. The exchange was arranged and among those 
returned by the Americans was "a priest," Father Fauque. 
Then the Prince Charles sailed to Surinam well satisfied 
with what had been accomplished. At Surinam Captain 



46 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Potter gave an entertainment to two English merchants and 
some masters of ships that were at anchor in the port. 
Seamen of that day were not always total abstainers and 
after the banquet the "vandne" was had of which mention 
has already been made. The prices obtained for the plunder 
were doubtless satisfactory for the most part to the sellers, 
but not in all cases. The goods sold "to the value of thirty 
or forty pieces of eight." They belonged to the "company" 
and the captain purchased many of them on his own ac- 
count thereby furnishing cause for the suit brought against 
him on his return to Rhode Island, from which suit he came 
out triumphant. Immediately after the sale the seamen 
demanded their share of the proceeds. Captain Potter told 
them they were still in debt to the owners for advances 
made and as his arguments were enforced by a drawn sword 
they were admitted to be valid. 

In his testimony before the admiralty court the Indian, 
Jeffrey Potter, was more specific as to the plunder secured 
at Wiapock than any other witness. He testified that they 
took seven Indians and three negroes, twenty large spoons 
or ladles, nine large ladles, one gold and one silver hilted 
sword, one gold and one silver watch, two bags of money, 
quantity uncertain; chests and trunks of goods, etc., gold 
rings, buckles and buttons, silver candlesticks, church plate 
both gold and silver, swords, four cannon, sixty small arms, 
ammunition, provisions, etc. But the wealth secured on 
this raid could not have been very great. French Guiana 
at the present time has a population of only 30,000, of whom 
12,500 live at Cayenne. The number of people then living 
at Oyapoc was much smaller than the population of today. 
The town burned by the marauding expedition sent up the 
river contained not more than seventy houses, and anyone 



SIMEON POTTER 47 

who has visited the countries lying along the north coast 
of South America knows that "the wealth of the tropics" 
is a wild figure of speech as far as the house furnishings 
are concerned. 

Equally wild are some of the accounts of the raid. One 
writer states that "there can be no doubt that in this cruise 
Captain Potter and his command invaded and desolated 
1500 miles of the enemy's territory; that on the Spanish 
Main in his march he visited churches and dwellings, and 
brought from the field of his exploits large amounts of 
booty." This writer was but repeating the tale as it had 
been told him in his childhood. He had never deemed it 
necessary to verify it. If he had considered the matter he 
would have realized that French Guiana is not a part of 
the Spanish Main at all, and a glance at the map would 
have shown him that between Cayenne and the mouth of 
the Orinoco River, where technically the "Spanish Main" 
begins, lie the hundreds of miles of coastline of Dutch and 
British Guiana. No privateer of the size of the Prince 
Charles could possibly have carried provisions and water 
sufficient for such a cruise if the expedition had been made 
in the vessel itself, and no ship's crew of the size of that 
which Potter commanded could, by any stretch of the imagi- 
nation, have made such a journey overland. Moreover no 
mention whatever of the Spanish Main, or of booty except 
that obtained at Cyann and Wiapock, is to be found in the 
records of the admiralty court. The statement affords an 
excellent illustration of the astounding growth of popular 
traditions. 



2— LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 

Letter of Father Fauqiic, Missionary of the Society of 

Jesus, to Father , of the same Society, containing 

an Account of the Capture of Fort d'Oyapoc by an 
English pirate.^ 

At Cayenne, the 22d of December, 1744. 

My Reverend Father, — The peace of our Lord be with 
you! I will make you a partaker of the greatest happiness 
I have experienced in my life, by informing you of the op- 
portunity I had of suffering something for the glory of 
God. 

I returned to Oyapoc on the 25th of October last. Some 
days afterwards, I received at my house Father d'Autilhac, 
who had returned from his mission to Ouanari, and Father 
d'Huberlant, who is settled at the confluence of the rivers 
Oyapoc and Camoppi, where he had formed a new mission. 
Thus we found ourselves, three missionaries, together; and 
we were enjoying the pleasure of a reunion, so rare in these 
countries, when divine Providence, to try us, permitted 
the occurrence of one of those wholly unexpected events 
which in one day destroyed the fruit of many years' labor. 
I will relate it, with all the attending circumstances. 

Scarcely had war been declared between France and 
England, when the English were sent from North America 
to cruise among the islands to the leeward of Cayenne. 
They determined to touch there, in the hope of capturing 

1 The words used by Father Fauque arc "corsaire anglois." — Trans. 

48 



LETTER OE EATIIER FAUQUE 49 

some vessel, pillaging some dwellings, and above all, of ob- 
taining some news of the "Senati," which was lost not long 
since near the river Maroni. Having gone too far south, 
and the water giving out, they approached Oyapoc to obtain 
some. We should have been naturally informed of it, either 
by the Indians, who go out frequently to hunt or fish, or 
by the guard, which our commander had prudently posted 
upon a mountain at the mouth of the river, whence they 
could see to the distance of three or four leagues. But, on 
the one hand, the Aroiias Indians, who came from Maya- 
core to Ouanari, having been seized by the English, gave 
them information of the little colony of Oyapoc, of which 
they were ignorant, and on which they had no designs when 
leaving their own country. On the other hand, the sentinels 
who were on guard, and who should have been our security, 
themselves acted as guides to those who surprised us. Thus 
every thing united to cause us to fall into the hands of 
these pirates.^ 

Their chief was Captain Simeon Potter, a native of New 
England, fitted out to cruise with a commission from 
Williems Gueene, Governor of Rodelan,"' and commanding 
the vessel "Prince Charles of Lorraine," of ten cannon, 
twelve swivel-guns, and a crew of sixty-two men. They 
cast anchor on the 6th of November, and began taking in 
water at the mountain d' Argent. (This is the name of the 

2 Les corsaircs. 

•'• Suspecting that Rodelan and Rhode Island were similar enough in 
sound to mislead Father Fauque, we examined the list of governors 
of Rhode Island, and found that William Greene was governor in 
1744-5. This, therefore, was a Rhode Island privateer.* Father 
Fauque says Captain Potter was "Creole de la Nouvelle Angleterre." 
He, of course, means he was a native of New England, and we have 
thus translated it. — Trans. 

*The Prince Charles was owned in Newport. See ante, p. 44. 



50 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

country on the inner side of the bay formed by the river 
d'Oyapoc.) On the 7th, their long-boat, returning to the 
ship, saw a canoe of Indians, which was coming from Cape 
Orange. (This is the cape which forms the other point 
of the bay.) The Enghsh pursued them, frightened them 
by a discharge of their gun, seized them, and carried them 
on shipboard. The next day, having seen a fire during the 
night on another mountain, which is called Mount Lucas, 
they sent and seized two young men who were placed there 
as sentinels. They might have had time to come and in- 
form us; but one of them, a traitor to his country, did not 
wish to do so. 

After having in this way learned the situation, the force, 
and generally everything which related to the post of 
Oyapoc, they determined to surprise it. They attempted 
the enterprise in the night, between the 9th and loth. But, 
fearing lest daylight might overtake them before their ar- 
rival, they turned back, and kept themselves concealed dur- 
ing all the day of the loth. The following night they took 
their measures better. They arrived a little after the set- 
ting of the moon, and, guided by the two young Frenchmen, 
they landed about a hundred yards from the fort of Oyapoc. 

The sentinel at first took them for Indians or negroes, 
who came and went at all hours during the night. He chal- 
lenged them, but they made no reply, and he then at once 
concluded they were enemies. Every one woke up in sur- 
prise ; but the English were within the place before any one 
had time to collect his thoughts. For myself, who was liv- 
ing outside the fort, and was roused by the first cry of the 
sentinel, having opened my door, I saw them file by in great 
haste; and, not being myself perceived, I immediately ran 
to awaken our Fathers. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 51 

So unexpected a surprise in the middle of a dark night, 
the weakness of the post, the few soldiers there to defend 
it (for there were not at that time more than ten or twelve 
men), the frightful shouts of a multitude which we sup- 
posed, as was natural, more numerous than it really was, 
the vivid and terrible fire which they kept up with their 
guns and pistols on entering the place, — all these things 
induced each one, by a first impulse of which he was not 
himself master, to take to flight, and conceal himself in the 
woods which surrounded us. Our commander, however, 
fired and wounded in the left arm the English captain, a 
young man about thirty years of age. What is singular, 
the captain was the only one wounded on either side. 

Our two missionaries, however, who had no spiritual 
charge at this post, and one of whom, through his zeal 
and friendship, wished to remain at my place, pressed by 
my solicitations, took refuge in the depths of the forest, 
with some Indians of their attendants and all our servants. 
For myself, I remained in my house, which was distant from 
the fort about a hundred yards, having resolved to go first 
to the church to consume the consecrated wafer, and after- 
wards to carry spiritual aid to the French, supposing that 
some of them had been wounded there; as I thought, cer- 
tainly not without reason, after having heard so much fir- 
ing of guns, that our people had made some resistance. 

I went out, therefore, to execute the first of these pro- 
jects; when a negro servant, who, through goodness of 
heart and fidelity (rare qualities among the slaves), had 
remained with me, represented to me that I would certainly 
be discovered, and they would not fail to fire at me in the 
first heat of the contest. I yielded to these reasons, and, 
as I only remained to render to my flock all the services 



52 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

demanded by my ministry, I felt scruples at uselessly ex- 
posing myself, and determined to wait until break of day 
to show myself. 

You can easily imagine, my Reverend Father, what a 
variety of emotions agitated me during the remainder of 
that night. The air ceaselessly resounded with cries and 
shouts and yells, and with the discharge of guns and pistols. 
Presently I heard the doors and windows of the houses 
opened, and the furniture overthrown with a great crash; 
and, as I was sufficiently near to distinguish perfectly the 
noise they made in the church, I was suddenly seized with 
an inward horror in the fear lest the Holy Sacrament might 
be profaned. I would have given a thousand lives to pre- 
vent this sacrilege; but there was not time. Nevertheless, 
to hinder it by the only way which remained to me, I in- 
wardly addressed myself to Jesus Christ, and earnestly 
prayed Him to guard His adorable Sacrament from the 
profanation which I feared. What took place was in a 
way so surprising that it may reasonably be regarded as 
a miracle. 

During all this tumult, my negro, who was perfectly 
aware of the danger we were running, and who had not 
the same reason with myself for this voluntary exposure, 
frequently proposed to me to take to flight. But I was 
unable to do so. I knew too well the obligations of my 
office ; and I could only wait for the moment when it would 
be in my power to go to the fort, and see in what state 
were the French soldiers, the greater part of whom I sup- 
posed to be either dead or wounded. I said, therefore, to 
the slave that on this occasion he was his own master; that 
I could not force him to remain with me; but that, never- 
theless, I should be pleased if he did not abandon me. I 



LETTER OE EATIIER EAUOUE 53 

added that, if he had any grievous sin on his conscience, 
it would be best for him to confess it, to be prepared for 
any contingency, since he was not certain but what they 
might take away his Hfe. This conversation made an im- 
pression on him, so that he recovered courage and remained 
firm. 

As soon as day dawned, I ran to the church, creeping 
through the underwood; and, akhough they had sentinels 
and marauders on every side, I had the good fortune not 
to be seen. As I entered the sacristy, which I found open, 
tears filled my eyes when I saw the cupboard for the vest- 
ments and linen, where also I kept the chalice and the sacred 
vessels, broken open and shattered, and many of the vest- 
ments scattered here and there. I went into the choir of 
the church, where I saw the altar half uncovered, and the 
cloths thrown together in a heap. I examined the taber- 
nacle, and found they had not noticed a little piece of cotton, 
which I was accustomed to place at the opening of the lock 
to prevent the ravers from getting into it. (This is an 
insect very common in the islands, which only comes out 
at night, and is very similar to the gadfly.) I supposed 
that the door was also broken open; but, placing my hand 
upon it, I found that it had not been touched. Overcome 
with wonder and joy and thankfulness, I took the key 
which these heretics had had under their hands. I opened 
it with reverence, and partook of the Sacrament, very un- 
certain whether I should ever again have that blessing; for 
what has not a man of my profession to fear from pirates, 
and these pirates, too, being English? 

After I had thus received the Sacrament, I fell on my 
knees to return thanks; and I told my negro to go in the 
mean while into my chamber, which was near at hand. 



54 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

He went there; but, in returning, was seen and arrested 
'by a sailor. The slave begged for mercy, and the English- 
man did not do him any harm. I showed myself then at 
the door of the sacristy, and immediately saw that I was 
aimed at. It was necessary, therefore, to surrender; so 
I came forward, and we took together the way to the fort. 
When we entered the place, I saw every face expressing 
the greatest joy, each one congratulating himself that they 
had captured a priest. 

The first one who approached me was the captain him- 
self. He was a man small in stature, and not in any re- 
spect differing from the others in dress. He had his left 
arm in a sling, a sabre in his right hand, and two pistols 
in his belt. As he was acquainted with some words of 
French, he told me "that I was very welcome; that I had 
nothing to fear, as no one would attempt my life." 

In the mean while, M. de Lage de la Landerie, Writer 
of the king, and our storekeeper, having appeared, I asked 
him in what condition were our people,' and if many of 
them were killed or wounded. He answered me that they 
were not ; that of our soldiers he had seen only the sergeant 
and one sentinel, and that on neither side was any one 
wounded but the English captain alone, in whose power 
we now were. I was delighted to learn that our commander, 
the officers, and their soldiers, had sufficient time to escape ; 
and as by this fact the reasons which had induced me to 
remain no longer existed, and as my personal ministry was 
not necessary, I should have much preferred being at lib- 
erty, and, could I have done so, would have retreated. But 
I could not longer dream of that ; and at that very moment 
two of our soldiers, who were found concealed, were seized, 
and increased the number of our prisoners. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 55 

At length dinner-time came. I was invited, but I cer- 
tainly had no inclination to eat, I knew that our soldiers 
and the two missionary Fathers were in the depth of the 
forest, without clothes, food, or aid. I had no news of 
them, nor was I able to procure any. This reflection over- 
whelmed me; it was necessary, however, to accept their re- 
peated invitations, which seemed to me to be sincere. 

Scarcely had the meal commenced, when I saw arriving 
the first plunder they had made at my house. It was natural 
that I should be moved. Indeed, I showed it; so that the 
captain said to me, as an excuse for himself, that the King 
of France had first declared war against the King of Eng- 
land, and that in consequence of it the French had already 
taken, pillaged, and burned an English post named Campo, 
near Cape Breton, and that several persons, including chil- 
dren, had been smothered in the flames. 

I answered him that, without wishing to enter into the 
detail of the affairs of Europe, our respective kings being 
to-day at war, I did not take it amiss; but was only sur- 
prised that he should have come to attack Oyapoc, which 
was not worth the trouble.* He replied that he himself 
exceedingly regretted having come here, as this delay might 
cause him to miss two merchant vessels, richly loaded, which 
were on the point of sailing from the harbor of Cayenne. 
I then said to him that, since he saw for himself how in- 
considerable was this post, and that he had scarcely any 
thing to gain from it, I prayed him to accept a reasonable 
ransom, for my church, myself, my negro, and every thing 
belonging to me. This proposition was reasonable, but was, 
nevertheless, rejected. He wished that I should treat with 
him for the fort and all its dependencies. But I bade him 
*Very true. — Ed. 



56 TALES OF AN OLD SEA TORT 

observe that this was not a fit proposition to make to a 
simple priest; that, besides, the Court of France had so 
little regard for the post that recent news from Paris had 
apprised ns that it would be abandoned as soon as prac- 
ticable. "Well," said he, in a spiteful way, "since you do 
not wish to entertain my j)roposition, we must continue our 
depredations, and make reprisals for all that the French 
have done against us." 

They continued, therefore, to transport from our houses 
furniture, clothes, provisions, all with a disorder and con- 
fusion that was remarkable. What gave me the deepest 
pain was to see the sacred vessels* in these profane and 
sacrilegious hands. I collected myself for a moment, and, 
awakening all my zeal, I told them what reason and faith 
and religion inspired me to say in the most forcible manner. 
With words of persuasion I mingled motives of fear for 
so criminal a profanation. The example of Belshazzar was 
not forgotten; and I am able to say to you with truth, my 
Reverend Father, that I saw many moved, and disposed 
to return these articles to me; but cupidity and avarice 
prevailed, and on the same day all the silver was packed 
up and carried aboard the vessel. f 

The captain, more susceptible of feeling than all the 
others, as he had always seemed to me, told me that he 
would willingly yield to me what he was able to return, 
but that he had no control over the will of the others; that 
all the crew having part in the booty, he was not able, as 
captain, to dispose of any but his own share; but that he 
would do all that was in his power to induce the others 
to agree to what I proposed. This was to pay them at 

*Some of these are still preserved in Bristol. — Ed. 
t See testimony of Jeffrey Potter, ante, p. 46. — Ed. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 57 

Cayenne, or at Surinam (a Dutch colony, which was not 
far distant, and where, they told me, they wished to go), 
or even in Europe by bills of exchange, for the value of 
the silver in the sacred vessels. But he was not able to 
obtain any thing. 

Some time afterwards, the first lieutenant asked me, 
through an interpreter, "what induced me to surrender my- 
self to them?" I replied to him, "that the persuasion I was 
under that some of our soldiers had been wounded had 
determined me to remain for their relief." "And did you 
not fear being killed?" he added. "Yes, without doubt," 
I said ; "but the fear of death is not capable of stopping a 
minister of Jesus Christ, when he should discharge his 
duty. Every true Christian is obliged to sacrifice his life 
rather than commit a sin; and I should have thought that 
I was guilty of a very great one, if, having charge of souls 
in my parish, I had entirely abandoned them in their peril. 
You know, indeed," I continued, "you^ Protestant people, 
who pride yourselves so much on reading the Scriptures, 
that it is only the hireling shepherd who flees before the 
wolf when he attacks the sheep." At this discourse they 
looked at one another, and seemed to me to be entirely 
astonished. This lesson is, without doubt, something a 
little different from that of their pretended Reformation. 

For myself, I was all the while uncertain with regard 
to my own fate, and I saw that I had every thing to fear 
from such people. I addressed myself, therefore, to the 
holy guardian angels, and I began a Novcna* in their honor, 
not doubting but they would cause something to turn to 
my advantage. I prayed them to assist me in this difficult 
emergency in which I found myself ; and I should say here, 

*A series of devotions extending through nine days.— Trans. 



58 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

to give a higher sanction to this devotion, so well known 
and so established in the usage of the Church, what I have 
recognized in my own particular case, that I have received 
each day the signal blessings of God, through the inter- 
cession of these heavenly spirits. 

However, as soon as night approached, — that is to say, 
towards six o'clock, for that is the time at which the sun 
sets here during the whole year, — the English drum com- 
menced beating. They assembled on the Place, and posted 
their sentinenls on all sides. That being done, the rest 
of the crew, as long as the night lasted, did not cease eating 
and drinking. For myself, I was constantly visited in my 
hammock, since they feared, without doubt, that I would 
try to escape. In this way they were mistaken; for two 
reasons detained me. The first was, that I had given them 
my parole, by which I had again constituted myself their 
prisoner, and I could not go out of their hands except by 
means of exchange or ransom. The second was, that, as 
long as I remained with them, I had some slight hope that 
I might recover the sacred vessels, or at least the vestments 
and other furniture of my church. As soon as it was day, 
the pillage recommenced, with the same confusion and the 
same disorder as the day before. Each carried to the fort 
whatever happened to fall into his hands, and threw it down 
in a pile. One arrived wearing an old cassock; another in 
a woman's petticoat; a third with the crown of a bonnet 
on his head. It was the same with those who guarded the 
booty. They searched in the heap of clothes, and when 
they found any thing which suited their fancy, — as a peruke, 
a laced chapeau, or a dress, — they immediately put it on, 
and made three or four turns through the room, with great 
satisfaction, after which they resumed their fantastical rags. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 59 

They were like a band of monkeys or of savages, who had 
never been away from the depths of the forest. A parasol 
or a mirror, the smallest article of furniture a little showy, 
excited their admiration. This did not surprise me, when 
I learned that they had scarcely any communication with 
Europe, and that Rodelan was a kind of little republic, 
which did not pay any tribute to the King of England, 
which elected its own governor every year, and which had 
not even any silver money, but only notes for daily com- 
merce; for this is the impression I gained from all they 
told me.* 

In the evening, the lieutenant informed himself of every 
thing which related to the dwellings of the French along 
the river, — how many there were of them, at what distances 
they were, how many inhabitants each had, &c. After- 
wards, he took with him ten men, and one of the young 
Frenchmen who had already served as guide to surprise 
us; and, after having made all the necessary preparations, 
they set out, and went up the river. But they found noth- 
ing, or very few articles, because the colonists, having been 
warned by our fugitives, had placed all their effects in 
concealment, and particularly their negroes, who, more than 
any thing else, excited the cupidity of the English. Finding 
themselves thus disappointed in their hopes, they spent their 
anger on the buildings, which they burned, without, how- 
ever, injuring the plantations. This, however, caused us 
to suspect that they had some intentions of returning. 

As to those of us who were in the fort, we spent this 
night very much like the preceding, — the same agitations, 
the same excesses on the part of our enemies, and the same 

*From 1715 to 1786 Rhode Island suffered from the issue of Bills 
of Credit, or paper money. — Ed. 



6o TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

disquietude on our part. The second lieutenant, who was 
left in command, did not lose sight of me, fearing, without 
doubt, that I wished to profit by the absence of the captain 
and the first lieutenant to make my escape. I had a great 
deal of difficulty in reassuring them on this point, and could 
not convince them. People of this kind, accustomed to 
judge others by themselves, are not able to imagine that 
an honorable man, that a priest, was able and obliged to 
keep his parole in such a case. 

When the day dawned, he seemed a little less uneasy on 
my account. Towards eight o'clock, they all placed them- 
selves at table; and, after a miserable repast, one of them 
attempted to enter into a controversy with me. He put 
many questions to me about Confession, about the worship 
which we gave to the Cross, to images, &c. ''Do you con- 
fess your parishioners?" he presently asked me. 

"Yes," I replied, "whenever they come to me; but they 
do not do so as often as they should, or as I could wish 
them, for the zeal I have for the salvation of their souls." 

"And do you really think," he added, "tliat their sins are 
remitted as soon as they have declared them to you?" 

"No, assuredly," I said to him; "a mere confession is 
not sufficient to produce this. It is necessary that it should 
be accompanied by a true sorrow for the past and a sincere 
resolution for the future, without which auricular Con- 
fession will have no efficacy to blot out sins." 

"And as to the images and the Cross," he replied, "do 
you think that the prayer would be equally efficacious with- 
out this, which is the external of religion?" 

"The prayer is good, without doubt," I answered him; 
"but permit me to ask you, with regard to yourself, why 
in families do they preserve the portraits of a father, a 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 6i 

mother, or their ancestors? Is it not principally to awaken 
their own remembrances in thinking of the benefits they 
have received from them, and to animate them to follow 
their good examples? For it is not exactly the picture 
which they honor, but it brings back to them all which it 
represents. In the same manner, you need not imagine that 
we Roman Catholics adore the wood or the brass; but we 
use it to nourish, so to say, our devotion. For how could 
a reasonable being remain unaffected while beholding the 
figure of a God dying on the Cross for His love to us? 
What effect may not be produced on the soul and the heart 
by the image of a martyr who is giving his life for Jesus 
Christ?" 

"Oh, I do not understand it so," said the Englishman to 
me; and I well knew from his manner that their ministers 
deceive them in telling them that the Papists, as they call 
us, superstitiously reverence and adore the Cross and the 
images, valuing them for themselves.* 

I was anxiously waiting for the return of those who had 
been to visit the dwellings, when they came to me to say 
that it was necessary I should go on board the ship, as Cap- 
tain Potter wished to see me and speak with me. I had 
done every thing in my power by urging, soliciting, and 
representing, as earnestly as I was able, all the reasons I 
had for not embarking so soon. But I could gain nothing, 
and I was obliged to obey in spite of myself. The com- 
mander of the party on shore, who, in the absence of the 
others, was the second lieutenant, when I came to speak 
to him on this point, taking hold of his tongue with one 
hand, and with the other making a semblance of piercing 
or cutting it, gave me to understand that, if I said any 

*Nota bene. — Ed. 



62 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

more, I might expect bad treatment. I had reason to think 
that he was annoyed at the strong and pathetic address I 
had made with regard to the profanation of the ornaments 
of the church and the sacred vessels. 

We embarked, therefore, towards three o'clock in the 
afternoon, in a canoe ; and, although the ship was not much 
more than three leagues distant (the captain having now 
caused it to enter the river), we nevertheless only reached 
it in about eight hours, in consequence of the remissness 
of the rowers, who were constantly drinking. When at 
a great distance I saw the hull of the vessel by the light 
of the moon, it seemed to me to be entirely out of the water. 
It had, indeed, run aground on the shore, and had only a 
depth of three feet of water. This was the occasion of 
great alarm to me; for I imagined that this might be the 
fault of my negro, whom they had selected as one of the 
pilots, and I thought that the captain had sent to seek me 
to make me bear the penalty which my slave merited, or 
at least that I should perish with the others in case the 
ship should be wrecked. What confirmed me for some 
time in this sad supposition was the little degree of welcome 
I received; but I have since been informed that there was 
no design in this, and that the cold reception which alarmed 
me was caused by the fact that they were all busy in work- 
ing the vessel, to relieve themselves as soon as possible from 
the uncomfortable position in which they were. 

As soon as our canoe had reached the ship, I saw descend- 
ing and coming to me a young man, who murdered the 
French language in some little attempt to speak it, and who 
took my hand, kissed it, and informed me that he was an 
Irishman and a Roman Catholic. He even made the sign 
of the Cross, which he did indifferently well ; and he added 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 63 

that, in right of his office as second gunner, he had a berth 
which he wished to give me, and that, if any one should 
take it into his head to show me the least disrespect, he well 
knew how to avenge it. This introduction, though shared 
in by a man who seemed to be very drunk, did not fail to 
tranquillize me somewhat. He gave me his hand, to aid 
me in climbing up to the deck by means of the ropes. 
Scarcely had I mounted thither when I encountered my 
negro. I asked him at once why he caused the ship to run 
aground, and was reassured when he told me that it was 
the fault of the captain, who was obstinate in holding his 
course in the middle of the river, although he had repeat- 
edly told him that the channel ran near the shore. At the 
same time the captain appeared on the quarter-deck, and 
told me, with great coldness, to go down into the cabin, 
after which he continued to devote himself to working the 
vessel. 

My Irishman, however, did not leave me, but, sitting at 
the door, renewed his protestations of good-will, assuring 
me always that he was a Roman Catholic; that he wished 
to confess before I left the ship; that he had formerly re- 
ceived the Sacrament, &c. And, as in all his conversation, 
he constantly mingled invectives against the English nation, 
they made him leave me, forbidding him to speak with me 
for the future, under penalty of chastisement. He received 
this with a very bad grace; swearing, blustering, and pro- 
testing that he would speak with me in spite of them. 

However, he went away; and scarcely had he gone when 
another came, as drunk as the first, and, like him, too, an 
Irishman. He was the surgeon, who at first addressed me 
with some Latin words, — Pater, misereor. I attempted to 
reply to him in Latin; but I soon found that these words 



64 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

constituted the whole of his knowledge of the language; 
and, as he was no better acquainted with French, we could 
hold no conversation together. 

In the mean while it grew late, and I felt sleepiness press- 
ing on me, having scarcely closed my eyes during the pre- 
ceding nights. I did not know where to go to obtain a little 
repose. The ship was so careened over that it was necessary 
to be continually fastened to prevent one's self rolling. I 
wanted to lie down in one of the three berths; but I did 
not dare, for fear some one would immediately force me 
to leave it. The captain saw my embarrassment, and, 
touched with the miserable figure we made, sitting on the 
chests, — the storekeeper and myself, — he told us we could 
lodge in the berth at the bottom of the cabin. He even 
added, politely, that he regretted not being able to give 
one to each, but his ship was too small to do so. I very 
willingly accepted his offer, and we arranged for ourselves 
as well as we could on a pile of rags. 

Notwithstanding all the disquietudes of my situation, I 
was drowsy from weariness, and during the night slept half 
the time. Being half the time awake, I perceived that the 
vessel had begun moving. It insensibly floated; and, to 
prevent it from afterwards settling down again, they drove 
two yard-arms into the mud, one on each side, which should 
hold the hull of the vessel in equilibrium. 

As soon as day came, and it was necessary to take some 
nourishment, I had a new source of torment, for the water 
was so offensive that I was not able even to taste it. The 
Indians and negroes, who certainly are not at all fastidious, 
preferred to drink the water of the river, however muddy 
and brackish it may be. I inquired, therefore, of the cap- 
tain why he did not procure other water, since very near 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUOUE 65 

this was a spring, to which I was accustomed to send to 
procure the water I used at the fort. He made no reply, 
thinking, perhaps, that I wished to lead him into some am- 
bush. But, after having thoroughly questioned the French, 
the negroes, and the Indians, whom he had taken prisoners, 
he determined to send the long-boat to land, with my slave. 
It made many trips during that and the following days; 
so that we all had the pleasure of having good water, al- 
though many scarcely used it, preferring the wine and rum 
which they had on the deck at will. 

I ought, however, to say in commendation of the captain 
that he was entirely sober. He even frequently expressed 
to me the pain he felt at the excesses of his crew, to whom, 
according to the custom of these pirates, he was obliged to 
allow an abundance of liberty. He made me afterwards 
a disclosure, which was sufficiently pleasant. 

"Monsieur," he said to me, "do you know that tomorrow, 
being the fifth of November, according to our method of 
computation" [for we French people count it to be the fif- 
teenth], "the English have a great festival?" 

"And what is the festival?" I asked him. 

"We burn the Pope," he answered, laughing. 

"Explain to me," I said; "what is this ceremony?" 

"They dress up in a burlesque style," he said, "a kind of 
ridiculous figure, which they call the Pope, and which they 
afterwards burn, while singing some ballads; and all this 
is in commemoration of the day when the Court of Rome 
separated England from its conmumion.'' To-morrow," he 

° Either Captain Potter or Father Fauquc, in this statement, makes 
a mistake. On November 5th, in England, they celebrate their escape 
from the "Gunpowder Plot." There is in the Prayer-book "A Form 
of Prayer with Thanksgiving," which is to be used on that day "for 



66 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

continued, "our people who are on shore will perform this 
ceremony at the fort." 

After a while, he caused his pennon and flag to be hoisted. 
The sailors manned the yard-arms, the drum was beaten, 
they fired the cannon, and all shouted, five times, "Long 
live the King!" This having been done, he called one of 
the sailors, who, to the great delight of those who under- 
stood his language, chanted a very long ballad, which I 
judged to be the recital of all this unworthy story. You 
see in this, my Reverend Father, an instance which fully 
confirms what all the world knew before, that heresy always 
pushes to an extreme its animosity against the visible Head 
of the Church. 

During the night a large boat came to us, manned by 
rowers. The captain, who was always on his guard, and 
who was not able to lay aside the idea that our people were 
seeking to surprise him, caused them immediately to clear 
the decks. They at once fired their swivel-gun; but the 
boat, having made its signal, all was again quiet. It was 
the lieutenant, who had been to plunder the dwellings along 
the river. He reported that he had only visited two or 
three plantations, which he had found entirely deserted. 
He added that he was going to ascend the river again, to 
consign every thing to the flames. In fact, after having 
supped and had sufficient consultation with his principal, he 
departed again. I asked permission to go with him as far 

the happy deUverance of King James I. and the Three Estates of 
England from the most traitorous and blood-intended massacre by 
Gunpowder; and also for the happy arrival of His Majesty King 
William on this day, for the deliverance of our church and nation." 
The common people call it "Guy Fawkes' Day."* — Trans. 

*Guy Fawkes' Day was observed with great fidelity, as far as noise 
was concerned, by Bristol boys of the last generation. — Ed. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 6-] 

as the fort to look for my papers, but it was refused me. 
However, to soften a little the pain which this denial gave 
me, Captain Potter promised that he himself would go 
thither with me. I therefore summoned up my patience, 
and endeavored by a little sleep to repair the loss of the 
preceding night; but it was useless. The noise, the con- 
fusion, and the bad smells did not allow me to close my 
eyes. 

On Sunday morning, I waited to see some religious 
service, for up to this time I had not recognized any mark 
of Christianity; but every thing went on as usual, so that 
I could not refrain from showing my surprise. The cap- 
tain told me "that in their sect each one worshipped God 
in his own way; that they had among them, as elsewhere, 
the good and the bad ; and that *he who acted right would 
be approved.' " At the same time he took out of his chest 
a book of devotion ; and I noticed that, during this day and 
the following Sunday, he occasionally looked at it.* As 
he always seemed to me to be very reasonable, I took pains, 
from time to time, to introduce into my conversation some 
word of controversy or of morality, which he received very 
well, having explained to him by the interpreters what he 
did not himself understand. He even told me one day "that 
he did not wish longer to pursue the business of privateer- 
ing; that God might to-day give him property, which, per- 
haps, might shortly be taken away from him by others ; that 
he was well aware he should take nothing away with him 
in dying ; but, nevertheless, I should not expect to find more 
piety in a French, or even in a Spanish, privateer than I 

*Captain Potter was a member of St. Michael's Church, Bristol, 
and as a good Church of England man was reading his Book of 
Common Prayer. — Ed. 



68 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

saw in his ship ; because these sorts of armaments were 
scarcely compatible with the exercises of devotion." I con- 
fess to yon, my Reverend Father, that I was astonished to 
hear such senitments in the mouth of an American Hugue- 
not* ; for every one knows how entirely this part of the 
world is removed from the kingdom of God and every thing 
which can lead to it. I have often exhorted him to pray 
the Lord for light, and that He would not allow him to 
die in the darkness of heresy, in which he had the mis- 
fortune to be born and brought up. 

As the boats were constantly going and coming, from 
the shore to the vessel and from the vessel to the shore, 
transporting the pillage, one came that very evening, bring- 
ing a French soldier and five Indians. He was one of our 
soldiers, who, fifteen days before, had been to seek the 
Indians to engage them to work, and, not knowing that the 
English were masters of the fort, had run into their hands. 
I represented to Captain Potter that, as the Indians were 
free among us, he neither ought to nor could take them 
prisoners, particularly as they had not been found with 
arms in their hands. But he answered me "that this kind 
of people were used for slaves in Rodelan, and that he 
should take them thither in spite of all that I could say." 
He has, in fact, carried them away, with the Aroiias whom 
he had first captured in the Bay of Oyapoc. Perhaps he 
has a fancy to return to this country, and intends to use 
these miserable beings in making his descent on the coast, 
or perhaps he will release them at Surinam. 

I had, nevertheless, on Monday morning, reminded him 

*Potter was not a Huguenot. If Father Fauque had known of the 
heresies abounding in "Rodelan" his astonishment would have been 
equalled by his horror. — Ed. 



^ 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 69 

of the promise he had made me that he would take me on 
shore ; but he was not then able to do any thing, and I was 
obliged to content myself with fair words, so that I de- 
spaired of ever again visiting my old home. On Tuesday, 
however, he came to me to say that, if I wished to go to 
the fort, we would take me. I most willingly accepted the 
offer; but, before I embarked, he strongly recommended 
to me not to attempt flight, because, he assured me, I would 
be stopped by the discharge of a gun. I reassured him on 
that point, and we set out. 

The commander of the boat was the second lieutenant, 
the same who had threatened to cut my tongue; and, as 
I complained to the captain, who had, without doubt, spoken 
to him about it, he made the strongest apologies on that 
point to me while on the way, and sliowed me a thousand 
acts of politeness. 

Before I was scarcely aware of it, we arrived at our 
destination; and immediately I saw all those who were 
guarding the fort come to the landing, some with guns and 
others with swords, to receive me. Little accustomed to 
good faith, perhaps, they were always afraid that I should 
escape from them, in spite of all that I was able to say to 
quiet them on my account. 

After we had taken a little rest, I asked to go to my 
house, and they conducted me thither under a strong escort. 
I began by first visiting the church, to enable me to see for 
the last time what was its condition. As I was not able to 
restrain my tears and sighs on seeing the altars overturned, 
the pictures torn, the sacred stones broken in pieces and 
scattered on every side, the two principal members of the 
band said to me "that they were very sorry for all this dis- 
order; that it was done contrary to their intentions by the 



70 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

sailors, the negroes, and the Indians, in the excitement of 
pillage and the heat of drunkenness, and that they made 
their apologies to me for it." I assured them "that it was 
of God principally; and, first of all, they should ask pardon 
for such a desecration of His temple, and that they had 
great reason to fear lest He should avenge Himself, and 
punish them as they deserved." I then threw myself on 
my knees, and made a special confession to God, to the 
Holy Virgin, and to Saint Joseph, in honor of whom I had 
set up these altars to excite the devotion of my parishioners ; 
after which I arose, and we went on to my house. 

I had five or six persons around me, who most strictly 
watched all my steps every moment, and, above all, the 
direction in which I looked. I did not then understand the 
occasion of all this attention on their part, but I have since 
learned it. These good people, avaricious to the last ex- 
treme, imagined that I had money concealed, and that, when 
I showed so much anxiety to return to shore, it was to see 
whether any one had discovered my treasure. We entered 
the house, then, together ; and it was the occasion of sincere 
sorrow to me, I must confess, to see the frightful disorder 
in which it was. 

It is now nearly seventeen years since I came for the 
first time to Oyapoc, and began to collect all that was neces- 
sary for the foundation of these Indian missions, foreseeing 
that this section of country, where the savages are so numer- 
ous, would furnish a great career for our zeal, and that the 
parish of Oyapoc would become, as it were, the storehouse 
of all the other establishments. I had not ceased ever after 
to be always making better provision, through the charitable 
cares of one of our Fathers, who wished to be my particular 
correspondent at Cayenne. God has permitted that one 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 71 

single day should destroy the fruit of so much labor and 
of so many years, that His holy name might be praised. 
What gave me most concern was, to know that the three 
missionaries who remained in that quarter were stripped 
of every thing, without my having it in my power for the 
present to procure even the merest necessaries, notwith- 
standing all the liberality and the good intentions of our 
Superiors. 

At last, after having gone rapidly through all the small 
apartments, which were used as lodgings for our Fathers 
when they came to visit me, I entered my study. I found 
all my books and papers on the ground, scattered, mingled 
together, and half torn to pieces. I took what I could; 
but, as they pressed me to finish, I was obliged to return 
to the fort. 

In a few hours afterwards, those arrived who had been 
to plunder the dwellings ; and, after being a little refreshed, 
they continued their route to the ship, carrying with them 
what they had pillaged, which, by their own acknowledg- 
ment and to their great regret, was inconsiderable. 

The next day, all the morning was passed in making up 
packages, in destroying the furniture which remained in the 
different houses, and in tearing off the locks and hinges of 
the doors, particularly those which were made of brass. At 
last, about mid-day, they set fire to the houses of the in- 
habitants, which were shortly reduced to ashes, having been 
only roofed with straw, according to the custom of the 
country. As I saw that mine would certainly share the 
same fate, I was very pressing to be conducted thither, 
that I might recover more of my books and papers than I 
had hitherto been able to secure. The second lieutenant, 
who was then in command, made a parade before me of 



72. TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

discharging a pistol, which he carried in his belt, and then 
he immediately loaded it, taking great pains that I should 
see it. I have since learned why he took so much trouble 
in this matter. Immediately afterwards, he said to me that, 
if I wished to go to my house, he would conduct me. 

Having reached my house, I went again to look for cer- 
tain papers; and, as there remained with me only a single 
sailor, who spoke French, all the others being a little scat- 
tered, he said to me, "My Father, all our people are at a 
distance; save yourself, if you wish." I was well aware 
that he wished me to attempt it, and I therefore replied 
coldly to him "that men of my profession do not know 
what it is to break their word." I added "that, if I had 
wished to take to flight, I could long ago have done so, 
as there had been many favorable opportunities while they 
V\^ere amusing themselves with pillaging or drinking." 

At length, after having thoroughly searched everywhere 
without finding any thing more, I informed them that I 
had finished, and that we could go when it pleased them. 
Then the lieutenant approached me, with a grave and threat- 
ening air, and told me, through the interpreter, "that I 
must show the place where I had concealed my money, or 
I would find myself in trouble." I answered, with that 
confidence which truth gives, "that I had not concealed any 
money; that, if I had thought to put any thing in a place 
of safety, I should have begun with those things that are 
used at the altar." "Deny the fact as you will," the inter- 
preter then replied to me by order of the officer, "we are 
certain, and cannot doubt it, that you have a large amount 
of money, for the soldiers who are our prisoners on board 
have told us so; and yet we have found but very little in 
your wardrobe. You must, therefore, have concealed it; 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 73 

and, if you do not immediately give it up, take care of your- 
self. You know that my pistol is not badly loaded." I fell 
on my knees, saying "that they were masters of my life, 
since I was in their hands and at their will; that if, how- 
ever, they wished to go to that extreme, I begged them to 
allow me a moment for prayer; that, for the rest, I had 
no other money than what they had already taken." At 
last, after having left me for some time in that position, 
and looking at each other, they told me to rise and follow 
them. They took me under the gallery of the house, which 
was built over a little grove of cocoa-trees, which I had 
planted like an orchard, and, having made me sit down, the 
lieutenant also took a chair, and then putting on an air of 
gayety, he said, "that I had no occasion for fear, as they 
did not intend to do me any injury; but that it was im- 
possible I had not concealed any thing, since there was suffi- 
cient time, as I had seen them from before my door when 
they came to take the fort." I replied to him, what I had 
already said so often, "that we had been so much terrified 
by the noise they made during the night, with their shouts 
and cries, and the incessant firing they kept up, that at first 
we thought of nothing but escaping death by a speedy flight ; 
the more so as we imagined that they had scattered them- 
selves at the same time through all the houses." 

"But, after all," he replied, "the French prisoners are 
well acquainted with your means. Why should they have 
told us that you had plenty of money, if it were not true?" 

"Do you not see," said I, "that they wished to conciliate 
you, and make their court to you at my expense?" 

"No, no," he continued; "it is because you do not wish 
to give up your money. I nevertheless assure you, and I 
give you my word of honor, that you shall have your lib- 



74 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

erty, and that we will release you here without burning 
your houses, if you will, after all, show your treasure." 

"It is entirely useless," I answered him, wearied with all 
these conversations, "that you follow me up with these 
earnest appeals. Again, once for all, I have nothing else 
to say to you but what I have so often repeated." 

He then spoke to the sailor who acted as interpreter, and 
who had kept his eyes on me during all this interview, to 
see whither I directed my looks. He then went out to visit 
my cocoa-grove. I then recalled a little interview I had 
with the captain, a few days before. I said to him "that, 
if the sentinels had done their duty, and given us notice 
of the arrival of the enemy, we would have concealed our 
most valuable effects." 

"In what place," he asked me, "would you have hid all 
these things? Would you have hid them in the ground?" 

"No," I replied; "we would have been contented with 
carrying them into the woods, and covering them with 
branches." 

It was, then, for this, that these cunning pirates, who 
weigh and put together all our words, imagining that I did 
not have sufficient time to carry very far what I esteemed 
most precious, were induced, as the last effort of their 
cupidity and distrust, to make a search under the trees in 
my garden. But it was impossible that they should find 
what had never been placed there; so the sailor soon grew 
tired of searching; and, he having returned, we went to- 
gether to the fort, — they without any booty, and I with 
some few of the papers I had collected. 

Then for some time they consulted together, and about 
three o'clock they went to set my house on fire. I prayed 
them at least to spare the church, and this they promised 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 75 

me. But, notwithstanding, they burned it ; and when I com- 
plained, they told me that the winds, which that day were 
very high there, had undoubtedly carried thither some 
sparks, which had set it on fire. With this answer I was 
obhged to be contented, leaving to God the time, the care, 
and the manner of avenging the insult offered to His house. 
For myself, seeing the flames rising up to the clouds, and 
having my heart pained with the most lively sorrow, I began 
to recite the seventy-eighth Psalm, "Dens venerimt gentes," 
&c. ("O God, the heathen are come into thine inheritance," 
&c.) 

At last, after every thing was carried to the boats, we 
ourselves embarked. It was a little after five o'clock; and 
the sailors, who were to follow us in two small boats, fin- 
ished by burning all the buildings of the fort. At length, 
having rowed out a little into the river, and allowing them- 
selves to clear the shore very slowly with the current, they 
shouted many times, "Houra," which is their "Vive le roi," 
and their cry of joy. They had not, however, any great 
occasion to pride themselves on their expedition, since, had 
it not been for the black treason which delivered us into 
their hands, they would never have succeeded. Neither 
was it of any use; because, though they had inflicted a great 
injury on us, they had themselves derived very little profit 
from it. 

I had expected to find the ship where I left it ; but it had 
already stood off in such a way that we did not arrive there 
till the night was far advanced; so that they did not dis- 
charge their booty until the next day, the morning of the 
19th of the month. During the whole of this day they made 
no progress, although they used their oars, as their sails 
were useless for want of wind. This delay disquieted me 



76 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

very much, because I wished as soon as possible to know 
my fate. "Would they leave me at Cayenne?" I said to 
myself. "Will they carry me to Surinam? Will they take 
me to Barbadoes? or even as far as New England?" And, 
as I was occupying myself with these inquiries, lying in 
my berth, which I was not able to quit on account of my 
great weakness and the seasickness, which afflicted me ter- 
ribly, some one came to tell me that they had sent on shore 
three of our soldiers, with one old Indian, captured in the 
canoe of the Aroiias, of which I have already spoken. I 
was a little surprised ; and, on asking the captain the reason, 
he told me that it made so many useless mouths the less. 

"And why," said I, "do you not do the same towards all 
the other prisoners?" 

"It is," said he, "because I am waiting for a good ran- 
som for the rest of you." 

He would have given a much truer excuse if he had said, 
that, wishing to make a descent on Cayenne, he was afraid 
that some of his people might be captured, in which case 
he wished to have some with whom to make an exchange, 
which did in reality happen, as we shall see in the end. 

The wind having freshened a little in the evening, we 
continued our voyage through the whole night, and before 
noon approached Cayenne, off a high rock named Con- 
nestable, and which is five or six leagues distant. They had 
already learned of the disaster which had befallen Oyapoc, 
— perhaps by a note which a young Indian had written, or 
perhaps through some inhabitants of Aproakac, who had 
come to take refuge at Cayenne. But they were ignorant 
of all the circumstances; and the public, as it commonly 
happens in such cases, set in circulation many reports, each 
one more false than the last. Some said that every person 



Aid 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE y-j 

at Oyapoc had been massacred, and that I, in particular, 
had suffered a thousand cruelties. Others published that 
there were many ships there, and that Cayenne would be 
obliged to submit to the same fate. What seemed to give 
a little sanction to the last news was, that the ship which 
had captured us carried with it three boats, which, with 
the long-boat, made five vessels. All having sails and loom- 
ing up, at a distance caused them to make a formidable 
appearance to those who were on shore. 

For myself, — in the persuasion I had that our Fathers, 
whom I had left in the woods, or some other of the French 
who had fled, would not fail to go as soon as possible to 
Cayenne to give them certain intelligence of our sad lot, 
or at least to forward ample information with regard to 
it, — I imagined they would send some one to rescue me. 
But I was deceiving myself, and they were entirely ignorant 
of every thing that had happened to me. So Friday passed, 
and the next day we cast anchor very near the Enfant 
Perdu. This is a rock, distant from the land six thousand 
and thirteen toises,^ as it has been exactly measured by M. 
de la Condamine, member of the Royal Academy of Sci- 
ences, on his return from Peru. 

Towards nine o'clock in the morning, after a great stir 
in the ship, I saw two large boats set out, which went to a 
little river called Macouria, especially to plunder the resi- 
dence of a certain lady ; in revenge, they said, for some 
grievances which had been previously suffered by the Eng- 
lish, who had gone there to purchase syrups. For, my Rev- 
erend Father, you must know that in time of peace that 
nation trades to this place, principally to furnish horses 

6 A toise is two yards. — Trans. 



78 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

for the sugar plantations.* As I saw but thirteen men in 
each boat, inchiding two Frenchmen, who were to serve 
as guides, I began from that moment to entertain some 
hopes of my liberty ; because I fully believed, as the weather 
was very clear, they would see this manoeuvre from the 
land, and not fail to fall upon them. I was thus indulging 
in these pleasant thoughts when they came to tell me that 
the boats were about to go first to Couron, which is about 
four leagues distant from Macouria, to capture there, if 
possible. Father Lombard, the missionary, who had labored 
with so much success and for so long a time in Guyane, in 
the conversion of the Indians. Their object was, that they 
might exact a ransom for him in conformity with his age 

and merits. 

I leave you to imagine how like the stroke of a thunder- 
bolt news of this kind came upon me, for I was well as- 
sured that, if this worthy missionary should be brought on 
board our ship, he would entirely sink under the fatigue. 
But Providence, which was not willing to afflict our mis- 
sions to this extent, defeated their plan. They ran aground 
on the way, and were obliged to hold to their first design, 
which was to ravage Macouria alone. They, in fact, ar- 
rived there on Sunday morning, and spent that day and 
the following night in pillaging and destroying the dwelling 
which was the object of their hate. On Monday morning, 
after having set fire to the buildings, they returned on 
board, without having received the least opposition from 
any one. The negroes were so thoroughly terrified that 
they did not dare to show themselves, and the French who 

*"Narragansett Pacers" were greatly in demand in the West Indies, 
and on the "Spanish Main."— £d. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 79 

had been dispatched from Cayenne on Sunday morning had 
not yet been able to reach there. 

During this expedition, those who had remained with me 
in the ship reasoned each one in accordance with his desires 
or his fears. Some prophesied a fortunate result to this 
enterprise, and others wished for it. At length, as each 
one was thus indulging in his own peculiar views, I saw 
again a great movement on board of our ship, towards three 
o'clock in the afternoon. It was caused by the departure 
of the boatswain, an energetic man, bold and determined, 
who, in command of nine men only, went in the long-boat 
to attempt a descent on the coast very near Cayenne, using 
as his guide a negro, who knew the coast, because he was 
a native of it. Perhaps also Captain Potter wished to make 
a diversion, and in that way prevent their sending a force 
from Cayenne against those of his people who had gone 
to Macouria. 

Plowever that might be, when I first learned the departure 
of the long-boat I could not doubt but that the Lord wished 
to relieve me from my captivity, persuaded as I was that, 
if the first party was not attacked, the second certainly 
would be. And what I anticipated in reality took place. 
The ten Englishmen, after having pillaged one of our dwell- 
ings, were encountered by a company of French, and en- 
tirely defeated. Three were killed on the spot, and seven 
were made prisoners. On our side there was but one soldier 
wounded, in the shoulder, by a musket-shot. As to my 
poor negro, it is surprising that in this fight he was not 
even wounded. The Lord, without doubt, wished to recom- 
pense him for his fidelity to his master. It was from him 
that they at length learned at Cayenne the particulars of 
the capture of Oyapoc, and every thing that related to me 
personally. 



8o TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

We who were on board were exceedingly anxious to learn 
the result of all these expeditions; but nothing came either 
from the shore or from Macouria. At last, when the sun 
began to appear, and it became sufficiently light for us to 
see at a distance, there was a constant stream of sailors 
going up to the round-top and coming down, who always 
reported that they could see nothing. But at nine o'clock, 
Captain Potter came himself to tell me that he had seen 
three boats which, leaving Cayenne, had gone in the direc- 
tion of Macouria, and no doubt were in pursuit of his 
people. To tranquillize him a little, I answered, "that they 
might be the boats of the inhabitants, who, after having 
heard Mass, were returning to their homes." 

"No," he rephed, "those are boats full of people. I have 
seen them perfectly with my glass, at a distance." 

"Your people," I suggested, "will perhaps have left the 
river before the others reach it, and after that there can 
be no collision." 

''All this does not worry me," he said. "My people are 
well armed and full of courage. The fortunes of war must 
decide it, if the two parties meet." 

"But what do you think of your long-boat?" I asked him. 
"I think it is captured," he said. 

"Excuse me," said I to him, "if I say to you that there 
was a little temerity in your running the risk of a descent 
with so small a force. Do you, then, imagine that Cayenne 
is an OyaixDC?" 

"That was far from being my idea," he answered ; "but 
it is the too great ardor and excessive energy of the boat- 
swain which^as caused it. So much the worse for ^him 
if he has come to evil! I am, however, sorry for it," he 
continued; "for I have a great esteem for him, and he was 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 8i 

very necessary to me. He has, without doubt, exceeded 
my orders; for I had advised him not to land, but only to 
examine from a short distance as to the most commodious 
place to disembark." 

After we had thus conferred together for a short time, 
he caused them to raise the anchor, and approached as near 
as possible to land and to Macouria. His object was as 
much to cut off the way for our I)oats, as to cover his people 
and shorten the return for them. 

Nevertheless, all Sunday passed in great anxiety. Our 
enemies were aware of the fact that there were three ships 
in the harbor, because the boats going to Macouria had 
approached sufficiently near the port to discover them, and 
they had made the signal agreed upon with Captain Potter, 
But some had fears lest these vessels might come out and 
attack the ship during the night. So, about seven o'clock 
in the evening, they placed two swivel-guns in the windows, 
besides the twelve which were on deck along the sides of 
the ship. But the captain was very composed. He told 
me "that, so far from fearing that they would come and 
attack him, he, on the contrary, desired it; hoping thus to 
gain possession of those who should dare to approach him." 
He was thoroughly armed as a privateer: sabres, pistols, 
guns, lances, grenades, balls filled with bitumen and sulphur, 
grape-shot, — nothing was wanting, 

I believe that no one slept that night. However, nothing 
appeared, either from Macouria or Cayenne, which was the 
cause of great uneasiness to us all. At length, at eight 
6'clock in the morning, the captain came to tell me that he 
had seen a great deal of smoke on the shore at Macouria, 
and that his people had without doubt set fire to the build- 
ings of Madame Gislet. (This is the name of the lady to 



82 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

whose residence the Enghsh had particularly directed their 
attention.) "I am very sorry," he added, "for I had ex- 
|)ressly forbidden them to burn any thing," A little while 
after, they saw from the height of the round-top five canoes 
or boats, some of which seemed to be pursuing each other. 
They were our French people, who were giving chase to the 
English. Captain Potter, an able man in his profession, 
at once perceived this, and took measures accordingly; for 
he raised his anchor, and made again a movement to ap- 
proach them. He called all his people to arms, having at 
the same time obliged all the prisoners, whether French or 
English, to descend into the hold. I wished myself to go 
there also; but he told me I could remain in my cabin, and 
he would notify me when it was time. 

In the midst of this excitement, one of the boats which 
had come from Macouria drew nigh, as by dint of rowing; 
and to assure themselves that they were English, those in 
the vessel raised their pennant and flag and fired a gun, to 
which the boats having responded by the discharge of a 
musket, the signal on which they had agreed, tranquillity 
succeeded this first movement of fear. But there remained 
as yet one boat behind, which was coming very slowly with 
the pagaye (a kind of scull, or oar, which the Lidians use 
to row their canoes), and they feared that it would be cap- 
tured by our boats. No sooner, therefore, had the officer 
who commanded the first discharged in haste the little they 
had brought with them, than he hurried back to convoy it. 
After having conducted it to its destination, and all the 
little booty they had taken having been embarked in the 
ship, each one thought of refreshing himself to the utmost 
for the fatigues of this marauding. Punch, lemonade, wine, 
brandy, sugar, — nothing was spared. Thus passed the rest 
of the day and the night of Sunday to Monday. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 83 

Among all these successes,' — which, however inconsider- 
able they really might be, were yet occasions of triumph for 
them, — there remained one great source of chagrin, which 
was the capture of the long-boat and of the ten men who 
had landed in it. It became necessary, therefore, to think 
seriously of some means of rescuing them. For this reason, 
on Monday morning, after having consulted among them- 
selves and held council after council, they came to find me, 
to say that, their ship dragging considerably, perhaps on 
account of the currents, which are very strong in these lati- 
tudes, or perhaps because they had only one small anchor 
remaining, they could not longer hold their anchorage, and 
they thought, therefore, of going to Surinam, a Dutch col- 
ony, twenty-four leagues or thereabouts from Cayenne; 
but, however, they very much wished to receive first some 
news of their long-boat and the people who had landed on 
Saturday. 

I told them, in reply, "that this was very easy; that it 
was only necessary to fit out one of the boats which they 
had taken from us, and to send it to Cayenne with the pro- 
posal for an exchange of prisoners." 

"But would they be willing to receive us?" they asked 
me; "would they not inflict on us some injury? Would 
they permit us to return?" 

It was easy for me to remove doubts which had so little 
foundation, by telling them, as is the case, "that the law of 
nations is the same in all countries; that the French did 
not pride themselves less than the English in observing it; 
that nothing was so common among civilized people as to 
see the generals mutually sending heralds-at-arms, trum- 
peters, or drummers, to carry their terms of .agreement; 
and that, therefore, they need have no fear for those of 
their crew whom they might send to land." 



84 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

After renewed consultations, which they held among 
themselves, they began to make their proposals, some of 
which I found to be entirely unreasonable. For example, 
they wished to have returned to them their boat with all 
the arms, and to have all the prisoners released, whatever 
might be their number, in exchange for only four French- 
men, which was our number. 

I answered him, "that I did not think they would accede 
to this article of war; that, as far as it related to men, the 
usage is to change them head for head." 

"But, you alone, do you not value yourself as much as 
thirty sailors?" said one of the crowd to me. 

"No, certainly," I answered; "a man of my profession, 
in time of war, should not count for any thing." 

"All this is very well for wit," said the captain; "but, 
since you take it in that way, I must go and make sail. 
I am able very well to bear the loss of ten men; it leaves 
me a large enough crew to continue my voyage." 

Immediately he went out of the cabin to give his orders, 
and they began working the ship, &c. But, through all this 
manoeuvring, I saw very well that it was only a feint on 
their part to intimidate me and induce me to ofifer them two 
thousand piastres, which they had already demanded for 
my ransom. 

Nevertheless, as I had a great desire to free myself from 
their hands, although I did not let it appear outwardly, 
I took occasion to call Captain Potter and say to him, "that 
he need not be influenced by my views; that he could at 
any time send a boat to Cayenne to make the proposals 
which he judged proper, leaving it to Monsieur the Com- 
mandant to accept or reject them." He followed this sug- 
gestion, and begged me myself to dictate the letter which 



LETTER OE EATHER EAUOUE 85 

he wished written ; and this I did, as his secretary, follow- 
ing exactly what he caused me to say. 

I also, on my own account, wrote a few words to Mon- 
sieur d'Orvilliers and Father de Villeconte (our Superior- 
General), praying the first to stipulate in the articles of 
negotiation, if he had an opportunity, that they should re- 
turn to me every thing in their possession belonging to my 
church; offering myself to pay as much silver in weight 
as would equal that of the silver vessels, and a certain sum 
on which we would agree for the furniture, ornaments, and 
linen. At the same time, I begged our Eather, if this nego- 
tiation succeeded, to send me the silver and the necessary 
balance for the account, by the return of the boat, to the 
place where the exchange of prisoners was to be made, — 
that is to say, half-way between the ship and the land. 

All these letters being prepared, the boat was dispatched, 
and they sent in it, as the bearer of these letters, a sergeant 
who had been made prisoner at Oyapoc. He was ordered 
to use the utmost diligence; and, as he was an energetic 
man, we should have had a prompt reply, but the wind 
and the current were so contrary that they could not make 
the port of Cayenne. We were all exceedingly disappointed : 
the English, because they began to be in want of water 
and their ship drifted again considerably, having only, as 
I have said, one small anchor, which they Avere obliged to 
manage with a grappling-iron ; and we Erenchmen, because 
we were very anxious to regain our liberty. It was neces- 
sary, however, to be patient and to resign ourselves to the 
will of God until He should cause some new way to be 
opened. 

At last, on Wednesday morning, having determined to 
ask the captain what course he had determined to pursue, 



86 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

I was agreeably surprised by hearing him say "that if I 
wished to go to Cayenne I was my own master, with the 
condition that I should cause to be sent back all the English 
who were prsioners there." 

"That does not depend upon me," I said to him; "but I 
will promise to make every effort with Monsieur the Com- 
mandant to obtain it." 

After some slight objections, which I easily removed, we 
wrote a new letter to Monsieur d'Orvilliers, of which I was 
to be the bearer, and, every thing being ready, we embarked 
— four French and five English — to go to Cayenne. In 
taking leave of the captain, I said to him, "that if the war 
continued, and he or any others of his nation should come 
to Cayenne, I could not again be made prisoner." He 
answered me, "that he knew that already; the custom being 
not twice to make prisoner of the same person in the course 
of the same war, at least, unless he should be taken with 
arms in his hands." 

I then thanked him for his honorable treatment of my- 
self, and, grasping his hand, I said to him : "Monsieur, 
two things give me pain at this parting. It is not exactly 
the pillage you have made at Oyapoc, because the French 
will perhaps return you the same with interest; but it is, 
in the first place, because we have not both of us the same 
faith ; and in the second place, because your people have not 
been willing to return to me the furniture of my church 
on the conditions I proposed, reasonable as they are, for it 
causes me to fear lest the profanation of what belongs to 
the temple of the Lord may draw down His anger upon 
you. I would advise you," I added, while embracing him, 
"to pray God each day to enlighten you as to the true way 
to heaven; for as there is but one God, so there can be 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 87 

but one true faith." After which I descended into the boat 
which was to carry us; and immediately I saw all the crew 
come up on deck, the flag and pennant were hoisted, the 
gun was fired, and we were many times saluted with 
"Hoiiras," to which we replied as often with "Vive le roi." 

Scarcely had we gone a quarter of a league on our way 
when the ship got under sail, and, toward five o'clock, we 
lost sight of her. The sea, however, was very rough, and 
we had only miserable oars to row with, when, to complete 
our difficulty, our rudder became disabled. A hinge, which 
was held in its place by a screw below, came out and fell 
into the sea. We then resorted to the only expedient in 
our power, that of attaching the ring of the rudder to the 
stern-post of the boat; but the iron shortly wore off the 
cord, and we found ourselves in great danger. What in- 
creased our fear was, that the night became very dark, and 
we were far distant from land. We determined, therefore, 
to anchor until next morning, when we could find out some 
way to relieve ourselves from this unfortunate condition. 
As the English appreciated better than we did the peril in 
which we were, one of them proposed to me to hoist the 
lantern high up on one of the masts, as a signal for succor. 
But I represented to him its uselessness, because we were 
too far distant to be seen, and, besides, no one would dare 
to come to us in the uncertainty whether we were friends 
or enemies. 

Thus we passed a distressing night, between life and 
death; and what was very remarkable is, that we had 
anchored, without knowing it, between two large rocks, 
which we did not see until day dawned. After having re- 
turned thanks to God for having so visibly protected us, 
we resolved to gain the river, that, if possible, we might 



88 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

repair the boat, or procure another at the neighboring dwell- 
ings, or, as a last resource, gp by land to Cayenne. But 
l)ehold! a new accident. As we took down the large mast, 
not having much strength of crew, they allowed it to go 
on the opposite side from that on which it should naturally 
fall. We all thought it would have crushed M. de la 
Landerie, but happily he had only some slight bruises. We 
took at that time — the sergeant and myself — one oar to 
steer, the others each taking one to row ; and, aided partly 
by the wind (for we carried our foremast to enable us to 
avoid the breakers), and partly by the tide, which began 
to rise, but, above all, conducted by the Divine Providence 
which guided us, on the morning of the 26th we entered 
the little river Macouria, which I have already mentioned. 
None of us were acquainted with the channel ; so that the 
English themselves earnestly avowed that it was God who 
had conducted us, safe and sound, in spite of the great 
dangers. 

Our first object was to obtain some means of getting to 
Cayenne ; but this was not an easy matter. In addition to 
the fact that we could not find a boat or any way of re- 
pairing our own, the negroes, who were the only persons 
left at the dwellings, were so frightened that they did not 
wish to recognize us. As it had already become known 
that I was a prisoner, they feared lest the English had sent 
me ashore as a lure, through my means to entrap the slaves. 
Nevertheless, after many protestations and prayers and 
solicitations, I reassured some, who, more courageous than 
the rest, dared to approach us; and, through their means, 
we obtained some little refreshment, of which we certainly 
stood very much in need. For myself, as I was scarcely 
able to take any nourishment, and fo this reason was very 
weak, I was hardly able to sustain myself. 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 89 

As soon as each one was a little recruited, I consigned 
to the negroes the boat, which we left in their care with 
all the rigging and sails, and we set out on our journey to 
Cayenne, along the borders of the ocean. We did not wish 
to go into the interior of the country, for fear of affording 
our enemies a knowledge of the place, which hereafter 
might be an injury to us. The night which followed favored 
my design, and I can say with truth that the five English 
whom I took with me saw nothing which could be of any 
service to them, if at any future day, in the course of this 
war, they should take a fancy to return to us. 

It would be difficult, not to say impossible, my Reverend 
Father, to describe to you what we suffered during this 
journey of only three or four leagues. As the tide rose, 
and for that reason we were obliged to make our way over 
the high ground of the shore, where the sand is very shift- 
ing, we sunk into it; and most of us had the greatest diffi- 
culty to drag ourselves along, so that I frequently saw the 
greater part of our party obliged to stop and rest. The 
English, particularly, being little accustomed to march, 
found the journey very long, and would have been very 
willing to be back in their vessel. But it was their fault 
that they found themselves in such difficulty. In sending 
us ashore, they themselves knew that the boat in which we 
embarked was unseaworthy. They should have given me 
notice of it at the time, and I would have demanded another 
from the captain. 

At last, by dint of encouraging and animating them, we 
reached the point which the river forms, and which fronts 
on the roadstead. It was about midnight when we arrived 
at the dwelling of Madame de Charanville, where the slaves, 
knowing the good heart and generosity of their mistress. 



90 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

although alone, gave us the best reception they were able, 
to recompense us for the privations we had suffered. I had 
taken the precaution to send before us a negro of our party, 
to remove their fears on our arrival; for without this, we 
should have run a great risk of not being received, so great 
was the fright which had everywhere seized on these poor 
wretches. So good a reception gave great satisfaction to 
the English, who themselves feared being killed or mal- 
treated by the negroes, which would certainly have hap- 
pened had I not been with them. For this reason they never 
left me. At length, after having taken a little rest, as soon 
as it was day we embarked in a boat we had found, and 
continued our route to Cayenne. 

No sooner had they seen us at a great distance, than they 
well knew from our white flag that we were the deputies 
who came to make terms ; and they immediately sent down 
a detachment to the port, who received us at the point of 
the bayonet and with presented arms, as is the custom on 
such occasions. All the ramparts which fronted the road- 
stead, and the rising ground on which the fort is situated, 
were entirely covered with people. Having directed the 
sergeant to remain in the boat with all his company until 
I had spoken to the commandant, I myself landed. The 
Brother Pittet had recognized me with his glass, at a long 
distance, and hastened himself to give me his hand. 

It was a very consoling spectacle, my Reverend Father, 
to see all Cayenne coming to meet me. In the streets 
through which I had passed, there was so great a crowd 
of people that I had difficulty in making my way. The 
rich as well as the poor, even all the slaves, pressed around 
to give me proofs of the pleasure which my restoration to 
freedom afforded them. Many bathed me with their tears 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 91 

wh.en embracing me. I do not blush to say that I was 
myself overcome in recognizing such great demonstrations 
of friendship. A large crowd followed me even into the 
church, to which I first repaired to return thanks to God 
for the great blessings He had bestowed upon me, and for 
which I pray you, my Reverend Father, to give thanks also. 

Our Fathers and our Brothers distinguished themselves 
on this occasion, and extended their charity, in my behalf, 
as far as it was possible to carry it. As all my clothes were 
in a pitiable state, they eagerly brought me every thing 
which was necessary. In this way I realized to the letter 
the truth of that declaration of our Lord: "Qidconqtie 
quittera son pere, sa mere, ses freres, pour I'amour de moi, 
recevra le centuple en ce monde." (Whosoever shall leave 
his father, his mother, his brethren, for my sake, shall re- 
ceive an hundred- fold in this world.) 

We often talked together over the evils which might again 
happen to us, and I was always very much edified at seeing 
their holy emulation; each one wishing to sacrifice himself 
to succor the wounded in case of an attack. But I thought 
that having already had some experience in this matter, 
and not being able to be again made prisoner during the 
continuance of this war, I should have the preference, and 
begin the service in discharging the duties of our ministry. 
We can, however, hope that neither the one nor the other 
will be obliged to come forward in this way, but that the 
victorious arms of the king will shortly bring about a solid 
and lasting peace. As soon as I had made my report and 
forwarded my letters to Monsieur d'Orvilliers, who was in 
retirement in his house on account of the death of Madame 
his wife, he gave orders that the five English who had come 
with me should be conducted, with their eyes bandaged, 



92 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

according to custom in such cases, to the guard-house, where 
they were to be confined; after which, he made the neces- 
sary arrangements for sending them back to their ship, with 
the seven other prisoners whom I have already mentioned, 
all of whom he was very willing to free, in a great measure 
through consideration to myself. On the following day, 
the 28th, they departed during the night in their long-boat, 
with all the tackle and provisions necessary. We have rea- 
son to wish that they should arrive safe in port, because 
we have written by them to the Governor of Surinam ; and 
I myself on my own account have done so, to endeavor, 
through his instrumentality, to recover what belonged to 
my church, on the conditions agreed upon with Captain 
Potter when we parted. But if I should not succeed in 
recovering these things, I flatter myself that you, my Rev- 
erend Father, would be entirely willing to supply this de- 
ficiency by sending me a complete church service, for every 
thing has been lost. 

On my arrival at Cayenne, I had found there the officer 
who was at Oyapoc when it was taken, and who since then 
has returned thither with the chief surgeon and a party of 
soldiers. Since that time, the commandant himself has 
2one back with the rest of the detachment, to await the 
orders which the Court shall give with regard to Oyapoc. 
The fort which we have just lost was built in 1725, under 
4:he direction of M. d'Orvilliers, Governor of this colony, 
and had thus been in existence but nineteen years. We do 
not know whether the Court will think proper to re-estab- 
lish it. 

It was a great consolation to me to learn that our two 
missionaries, the Fathers d'Autillac and d'Huberlant, have 
returned each to his own post, after having entirely got over 



LETTER OF FATHER FAUQUE 93 

their fatigues before they went back. They had again much 
to suffer, until we were able to furnish them with assistance. 
They write me that the Indians, who had been at first ex- 
ceedingly frightened, had begun to be reassured, and that 
they continued to render all the services in their power to 
the inhabitants who remained in that quarter awaiting the 
new order. 

You see, my Reverend Father, a very long letter, and, 
perhaps, one a little too long. I should esteem myself 
happy if it is able to afford you any pleasure, for I had no 
other object in writing. I am, with respect, in the unity 
of your holy sacrifices, &c. 



PART II 

NORWEST JOHN AND THE VOYAGE OF 
THE JUNO 



I— NORWEST JOHN 

John De Wolf was born in Bristol on September 6, 1779. 
His father, Simon, the third son of Mark Anthony, 
founder of the Bristol family, was lost at sea with his older 
brother, Mark, in 1779 or '80, when his only child was but 
an infant in arms. He was forced by poverty to begin a 
seafaring life at the age of thirteen. His great ability 
quickly manifested itself and at the age of twenty-four 
he was placed in command of a vessel bound on one of the 
most fascinating as well as one of the most hazardous voy- 
ages known to the commerce of that time, a voyage to the 
Northwest Coast. The story of his experiences he tells 
in the pages that follow. For some years after his return 
to his native town he continued in the Russian-American 
trade for which the knowledge of the language gained dur- 
ing his stay in Russian territory well qualified him. Having 
attained the age of forty-eight he retired from the sea and 
for some years lived, like many retired captains, the life 
of a farmer, upon the farm occupied for years as a summer 
home by his relative, the late Bishop Howe of Central 
Pennsylvania. Thence he moved to a farm at Brighton, 
Massachusetts, and, leaving that, spent the last years of his 
life with his daughter, Mrs. Downing, at Dorchester. Very 
delightful must have been those last years. The daring 
sailor whose nerves had never failed him in moments of 
greatest peril on the ocean was a man of tender nature 
and of a most lovable disposition. 

Of him liis granddaughter penned this beautiful picture:^ 

1 Perry's "History of the De Wolf Family," p. 50. 

97 



98 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

"I never knew a more beautiful old age. Beloved by those 
of all ages, he had many friends among the young people 
and was young with them, and his grandchildren were de- 
voted to him. They called him 'White Grandpa,' on ac- 
count of his silvery hair, to distinguish him from my father. 
They always knew in just what spot in the room to look 
for candy and fruits which he always had for them, and 
if there was anything they particularly wanted they were 
always sure that 'White Grandpa' would give it to them. 
Like so many old people it was hard for him to adapt him- 
self to modern improvements. And especially the new ideas 
of shipbuilding were not always to his liking. At a window 
of a room in our summer home, commanding a fine view 
of Boston harbor, we would often find him holding his spy- 
glass at arm's length, and if sometimes we would ask 'What 
do you see, Grandpa?' he would invariably reply, T was 
looking at those blasted three masted schooners.' " 

In the days of his life at sea a three masted schooner 
was almost unknown, and the schooner rigged vessel was 
rarely seen except on the American coast of the North 
Atlantic Ocean. Everywhere else square sails were the rule. 
Even the "tub" of twenty-five tons on which Captain De 
Wolf made his voyage of twenty-five hundred miles to 
Ochotsk was a brig. At his death no naval constructor 
had dreamed of a five masted schooner, and a seven master 
would have been deemed impossible. Today all the great 
colliers carry five or six masts and there is not a square 
rigger among them. The schooner rig is distinctively 
American. The first schooner ever constructed is said to 
have been built in Gloucester, Massachusetts, about the year 
1 713, by Captain Andrew Robinson. In two centuries it 
has driven the square rigged ship from the Atlantic coast 



NORWEST JOHN 99 

of North America. In the great ports upon the Pacific 
coast square sails are still frequent, though they are seen 
for the most part upon the masts of foreign ships. The 
schooner rig has conquered even that former home of most 
rigid conservatism which was opened to the commerce of 
the world in 1854, by a Rhode Island naval officer, when 
Commodore M. C. Perry dropped anchor near the little 
fishing village of Yokohama, Japan. As one passes through 
the "Inland Sea" today he notes that all the fleet craft skim- 
ming over its waves are rigged in the American way. The 
schooner has driven the slow moving "junk" out of busi- 
ness as far as those waters are concerned. 

Captain De Wolf died in Dorchester, on March 8, 1872, 
aged ninety-two. 



2^VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 

A VOYAGE TO THE NORTH PACIFIC AND A JOURNEY THROUGH 
SIBERIA MORE THAN HALF A CENTURY AGO. BY CAP- 
TAIN JOHN d'VVOLF. (CAMBRIDGE, 1861 ) 

Preface 

My only object in combining the reminiscences and 
memoranda of my first voyage as a shipmaster into a con- 
nected narrative is to leave some slight record of that 
voyage in my family. Although I am not one of those 
who regard everything beyond the smoke of their own 
chimneys as marvellous I think my expedition to the North- 
west Coast was made a little remarkable from the circum- 
stance that I met at Norfolk Sound his Excellency Baron 
von Resanoff, to whom I sold my vessel, and then crossed 
the Pacific in a little craft of twenty-five tons burden, and 
after an overland journey of twenty-five hundred miles 
returned home by way of St. Petersburg. This was a voy- 
age and travels more than half a century ago, and I was 
probably the first American who passed through Siberia. 
I know that others have claimed to be the first, and have 
published descriptions of the country; but I had gone over 
the same route before any of these claimants were born. 
I have often regretted that I did not make any note of what 
I saw, and that I had not the requisite qualifications to write 
an extended account of it; but business called my thoughts 
in other directions. I must now be content to give this 
imperfect sketch, the materials of which are drawn prin- 
cipally from memory. 

100 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO loi 

VOYAGE. 
I. 

The Ship Juno. — Her Outfit. — And Voyage to the Northwest Coast. 

I COMMENCED a Seafaring life at the early age of thir- 
teen, and followed it through all its changes, continually 
rising in rank, until I reached my twenty-fourth year. 
Then, after a series of long voyages to the eastward of 
the Cape of Good Hope as chief mate, in the summer of 
1804 I returned to my native town, resolved on a short 
respite of a few months from a close application of eleven 
years. I had enjoyed this leisure but a little while, how- 
ever, when my employers, Messrs. Charles, James, and 
George D'Wolf, purchased a fine ship,* called the Juno, of 
about two hundred and fifty tons burden, and projected a 
voyage to the Northwest Coast of America to collect furs 
for the China market. They proposed that I should take 
the command. I had no expectation of such an offer, since 
I thought myself too young and inexperienced to enter upon 
an entirely new branch of trade, and entertained some mis- 
givings of my qualifications for such an enterprise. At the 
same time I could not so far doubt my abilities as to neglect 
so advantageous an opportunity, and I therefore accepted 
the trust. 

Having engaged in the undertaking, we lost no time in 
making the necessary arrangements, in procuring a cargo 
suitable for traffic, and in preparing the vessel for the voy- 
age. When ready for sea, the Juno and her lading were 
valued at $35,000. The Juno at that day was considered 
a crack ship, and her outfit embraced all that was needed 

*Three months before this vessel had brought into Bristol the first 
cargo received from a Chinese port. — Ed. 



I02 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

for both comfort and convenience. She mounted eight car- 
riage guns, and was otherwise armed in proportion, and 
when hauled into the stream presented quite a formidable 
and warlike appearance. Such an equipment was essential 
in her time for the dangerous business for which she was 
destined. The crew also would now be considered too large 
for a craft of the same tonnage, — for it numbered twenty- 
six men and boys, viz : Samuel G. Newell, First Mate ; 
John A, Thomas, Second Mate ; James Moorfield, Clerk ; 
Richard Cammett, Joseph Hooper, Armorers; Thomas 
Hunt, Boatswain; John Jones, Carpenter; D. Bucklin, E. 
Bucklin, W. H. Tripp, D. Tatton, J. Stokes, J. Wheeler, 
W. Foy, J. Marshall, J. D. Cook, W. Phipps, J. Wheesner, 
J. Powers, S. Patterson, Seamen; J. Hanson, Cook; E. D. 
Parker, Musician; R. Hitchcock, Tailor; T. Murphy, J. 
Mahoney, boys. Thus manned and equipped, we took leave 
of our friends, weighed anchor, and put to sea on the 13th 
of August, 1804. 

Having now fairly embarked again on the ocean, which 
had become a home to me, I began immediately to attend 
to those duties which its dangers imposed. Our anchors 
and cables were soon stowed away, the crew divided, the 
watch set, and everything prepared for all winds and 
weathers. We sailed in a southeasterly direction, with 
light breezes, and for a number of days nothing varied the 
monotony which the sea wears to those who have been long 
accustomed to it. On the 20th of September we saw at 
a distance St. Antonio, one of the Cape de Verde Islands. 
We then bent our course to the south, and were favored 
with fine leading winds until we reached that region of the 
ocean between the northeast and southeast trade-winds, 
which is doomed to perpetual squalls and calms, thunder, 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 103 

lightning, and rain. This vexatious weather was the source 
of one advantage, however. It afforded an opportunity 
for fining our water-casks, which was essential in the long 
voyage and moderate progress we were making. 

On the 9th of November we crossed the equator in longi- 
tude 24° W. Fifty-six days to the line ! Well, this cer- 
tainly seems to be a long passage in comparison with those 
made in more modern times by the straight course pointed 
out by Lieut. Alaury. Yet the difference is not so very 
extraordinary, when we consider the improvements in the 
sciences of navigation and naval architecture. Clippers may 
pursue a route with impunity which was not so safe or 
practicable for the square-built, seven-knot ships of half 
a century ago. The straight course was by no means un- 
known in those days, and it was sometimes followed; but 
with dull sailing vessels it was necessary to be more cau- 
tious, and make their "easting" while in the region of 
variable winds. That we crossed the Atlantic, in my time, 
thrice, as it is said, in going to the Cape of Good Hope, 
I deny. A majority of the passages made by the circuitous 
track would compare favorably with those made now by the 
same class of ships, notwithstanding the superior knowledge 
of winds and currents, and the numerous nautical instru- 
ments of which sea-captains avail themselves. At all events, 
navigation is not now carried on with more, if as much 
safety as formerly. Inducements are held out, in these go- 
ahead days, to make quick passages, regardless of ship and 
cargo, and the interests of the underwriters. Too implicit 
reliance is placed on instruments and figures at the expense 
of that most essential point in navigation, a vigilant look- 
out, and to the neglect of the use of the lead. 

October loth. We fell in with a large Spanish ship from 



104 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Havana for Rio Janeiro, ninety days out. Being now sev- 
eral degrees in south latitude, the weather was serene and 
the sea smooth ; there was a fine breeze from the southeast. 
On the 1 2th, we spoke a Portuguese ship from Oporto, also 
'bound to Rio Janeiro. She had a large number of passen- 
gers on board, many of whom were sick, as they were desti- 
tute of all kinds of vegetables. I supplied them with 
potatoes and onions, for which they were very grateful, 
and presented in return a quantity of Port wine. A con- 
tinuance of the pleasant weather enabled us to make various 
repairs in the rigging, which had been drenched and buffeted 
by incessant tempests to the north of the line. The change 
seemed to put new life and animation into the whole crew. 
All hands were actively employed with a good will in their 
various departments, — the armorers at the forge, the car- 
penter fitting the boats for service on the coast, the sail- 
makers upon the sails. Thus the vessel was put in fine 
condition for meeting the rough gales of Cape Horn, These 
we began to encounter in lat. 40° S. 

November 12th, lat. 48° S., long. 51° W., we fell in with 
the ship Mary, of Boston, Capt. Trescott, bound to the 
Northwest Coast of America, and I agreed to keep com- 
pany with him until we had doubled the Cape. This ar- 
rangement could be no impediment to our progress, as our 
vessels were nearly equal sailors. ■ — November 15th, we saw 
the Falkland Islands bearing from southeast to southwest, 
fifteen miles distant. From our longitude we judged our- 
selves to be nearer the western extremity, but the wind 
inclining westward compelled us to pass to the eastward 
of them. — November 19th, the wind from the westward 
increased to a gale, with a heavy swell, which brought both 
ships under short sail. At eight, P. M., the Mary bore upon 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 105 

our weather quarter, about two miles distant. At ten, the 
wind continuing the same, I left the deck, charging the 
officer of the watch to be careful that we did not approach 
each other too near. At daylight it was perceived that she 
had approached us considerably, though she still held a 
position on the weather quarter at a sufficient distance to 
be out of danger. But through inattention of the officer 
on board the Mary to the steering, she was brought under 
our lee within hail; of this I was not informed by the mate 
in command on the deck. The Juno was making but slow 
progress through the water, being under short sail, with 
a heavy sea running, and obliged to keep close to the wind 
in order to avoid a collision. In this way, the ship's head- 
way would be so checked that she would fall off two or 
three points, regardless of the helm. While thus situated, 
the Mary was in the act of coming to, and the Juno falling 
off, when, before either ship had gained sufficient headway 
to be under quick command of the helm, our whole broad- 
sides came into contact with a crash that made every timber 
quake. I immediately rushed on deck, and beheld with 
amazement our perilous situation. In which, spite of all 
our efforts to get clear, we remained nearly fifteen minutes, 
cutting and tearing our bulwarks, channels, and plank- 
sheer, and making sad work with our rigging. Finally we 
separated, and without apparently sustaining any injury 
below our plank-sheer. 

This may be an uninteresting matter for record to many, 
but it is one of those casualties which not infrequently occur 
from a reckless neglect, or a want of ordinary judgment, 
and yet where no one is willing to acknowledge himself 
at fault. They show that caution is to be regarded as a 
cardinal point of practical navigation. I am bold to say, 



io6 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

that, if I had been apprised of our proximity, the collision 
would never have taken place. 

When endeavoring to extricate the two ships, Mr. Stet- 
son, first mate of the Mary, while on a poise upon her 
railing, to save himself from falling overboard, made a 
leap for the Juno, and landed on her deck. In the course 
of the day the weather became more moderate, and we put 
him aboard his own ship and continued our course without 
attempting to keep company with her. We were favored 
with mild weather until the 24th, which brought us into 
lat. 56° S. Here commenced a series of very severe gales 
from the westward, which continued with unabated violence 
for ten days. On the 5th of December the wind veered 
to the southward, which enabled us to make some progress, 
so that on the loth I judged myself fairly to the north and 
west of the Cape, and a fine southwest wind was carrying 
us fast from it. On the 13th, as luck would have it, we 
fell in again with our old consort, the Mary, and sailed 
along with her until the 29th, Being then in lat. 44° S. 
and long. 85° W., I deemed it expedient to hold a con- 
sultation with my officers on the propriety of touching upon 
the coast of Chili, in preference to the Sandwich Islands, 
which was our previous intention. This was thought ad- 
visable on account of the damage sustained during our 
boisterous passage of one hundred and thirty-eight days. 
The copper on the ship's bottom, which had been worn as 
thin as paper during a previous long voyage of three years, 
had now become full of holes, and was torn off in many 
places by whole sheets. This and other injuries which 
could not be repaired at sea, in addition to the fact that all 
our fuel was consumed except that stowed under the cargo, 
and on this account we had for some time been obliged to 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 107 

dispense with cooking oftener than once a week, induced 
us to part company again with the Mary, and shape our 
course for Concepcion. I was well aware of the natural 
and deep-rooted jealousy of the Spaniards; but while I 
apprehended trouble on this score, I was determined to find 
admittance to some port, after having relinquished my 
original scheme of visiting the Sandwich Islands. 

On the 1st of January, 1805, at 2 P. M., we saw land 
bearing from southeast to northeast, fifteen miles distant, 
and shortly after the island of St. Maria. At the same 
time we saw a ship standing out from the shore, which we 
spoke. She was a whaler from New Bedford. The wind 
was blowing so hard that we could learn nothing further. 
At sunset it had died away, and left us still four or five 
miles off Concepcion. As it was not practicable to make 
the harbor in the night-time, we tacked ship and stood out 
from the coast, with a view to holding our situation to the 
windward until morning, and at midnight we tacked and 
stood in again. At daybreak, however, we found the cur- 
rent had set us a considerable distance north of our port. 
I accordingly resolved to make sail for Valparaiso; since 
that was the principal port in Chili, we had reason to an- 
ticipate a better reception than at any place of less note, 
"where our presence might have excited unjust suspicions 
of unlawful trade. Our sole object was to repair our vessel 
and obtain supplies for our voyage, and these by the laws 
of humanity they could not in justice refuse us. 

The weather continued remarkably serene and pleasant, 
with light breezes and frequent calms; and as we coasted 
along within eight or ten miles of the shore, we had a most 
splendid view of the Andes, towering far above the clouds. 
On the morning of the 8th, we entered the bay of Val- 



io8 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

paraiso. Before we reached a safe anchorage, we were 
visited by an officer from the Governor, who requested to 
know who we were, whence we came, and the object of 
our visit, — all of which I explained to his apparent satis- 
faction. The boat then returned to the shore with a mes- 
sage to the Governor, while the officer remained on board, 
saying that he could not suffer us to anchor until he re- 
ceived orders. But before the boat returned, the ship had 
reached the anchorage ground, and we came to immediately, 
notwithstanding his remonstrances. The boat brought a 
peremptory command to leave the bay; but this was out of 
the question, and so I as peremptorily refused. I was 
summoned before the Governor to present my papers for 
examination, and account for my conduct. After examin- 
ing my invoices and other documents, and listening to a 
candid explanation of the reasons which induced me to 
come into port, he was convinced that my destination was 
the Northwest Coast. I was accordingly permitted to re- 
main until I received further orders from the Governor- 
General, at St. Jago, to whom a messenger was despatched. 
In the mean time I was allowed to take on board as much 
wood and water, and fresh provisions, as I chose. The 
harbor was too rough and exposed to make the repairs we 
needed, and therefore we weighed anchor and sailed for 
Coquimbo, where we arrived on the 20th, and dropped 
anchor in six fathoms of water, on the west side of the 
bay, about eight miles from the town. Here we remained 
until the 28th, when, having completed our repairs as far 
as practicable, we put to sea with a fine breeze from the 
south. 

When we reached 4° S. lat., we had series of calms, with 
pleasant weather, and a very smooth sea. In this neighbor- 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 109 

hood we saw great numbers of green turtle, and by cap- 
turing several we added a delicacy to our larder. February 
20th, between 9 and 1 1 A. M., I obtained several distances 
of the sun and moon, the mean of which made the long. 
108° W. ; at meridian, I found we had crossed the equator 
into north latitude. The wind continued very light and 
variable until the 4th of March, when it inclined to the 
northeast. On the i6th, we crossed the Tropic of Cancer. 
At this point the winds again became variable and squally. 
On the 7th of April, we had strong gales and threatening 
sky, with rain at intervals. At 8 P. M. of that date I put 
the ship under short sail, and hauled upon the wind to the 
northward, deeming it imprudent to continue on our course 
through the night, because, by my calculations, we were 
in the vicinity of land. In the morning the weather mod- 
erated, and at 5 A. M. we saw land bearing from north- 
northeast to east, which proved to be the northern part of 
Vancouver's Island. At 2 P. M. we saw Scott's Island 
bearing north-northwest, sixteen miles distant. At night- 
fall the clouds wore an ugly look ; so we hauled by the wind 
to the westward, under short sail. At midnight we had a 
heavy blow, but it died away by light, and we saw Scott's 
Island again; at 9 A. M. it bore south, five miles. The 
wind beginning again to rise, I determined if possible to 
make a harbor before night. With this intention I shaped 
my course for Newettee. 

Newettee was a small inlet in the northwestern promon- 
tory of Vancouver's Island, and sheltered from the sea by 
a long island running nearly east and west. Between the 
two was a strait, through which we must enter to gain 
our port. As we drew near the entrance, the wind became 
very light, and at sunset we were still three miles from it. 



no TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Being myself entirely unacquainted with the coast, I was 
inclined to lay off until morning; but my officers were all 
more or less familiar with it, and so positive of their knowl- 
edge that I concluded to proceed. At eight in the evening 
we crossed the bar at the mouth of the strait, and entered. 
The wind had fallen now to a dead calm, and left us ex- 
posed to a very strong current, which carried us toward 
an inlet in the island to the north of us; and at the same 
time it was evident that we were approaching the shore 
very fast. Nothing could surpass the terrific appearance 
of the scenery; perpendicular cliffs towered from the water's 
edge to a lofty height, against which the sea beat with great 
violence. The ship getting no steerage-way from her sails, 
and being in fact entirely unmanageable, we hoisted out 
our boats to tow. The long-boat, which was of the most 
consequence, sunk alongside; the yawl and the whaleboat 
were both got ahead, but were so light that they had very 
little effect on the vessel. We were now within three rods 
of a high projecting point, and the soundings showed forty- 
five fathoms of water. We let go the kedge-anchor to 
keep the bow off, and it had the desired effect. By great 
exertions in the boats, assisted in the. ship by the application 
of all the oars we had, we barely succeeded in keeping clear 
of the rocks, which could now be reached with an oar. As 
the tide swept us along, we were threatened with destruc- 
tion by every sea which dashed against them. At length, 
by the aid of a light air which sprung up, we got out of 
the irregular current near the shore, and, slipping our cable 
and leaving our anchor, moved towards the harbor on the 
south side of the straits. When about two thirds of the 
way across, I despatched a boat with an officer to find the 
entrance. The boat not returning in due time, I discharged 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO iii 

a musket as a signal. It was answered from a vessel lying 
within, and shortly after one of the officers came aboard 
her, and informed us that it was the ship Pearl of Boston, 
Capt. Ebbets.* He very politely offered to pilot us in, and 
by his assistance we were soon brought safely to anchor 
in fifteen fathoms of water. This was the loth of April, 
1805. 



II. 

Newettee and the Natives. — Kygarney. — Norfolk Sound. — Sell Part 
of my Cargo to the Russians. — Governor Baranoff . — Chatham 
Straits. — Newettee again. — Return to Chatham Straits. — Trade 
with the Indians. — On the Rocks. — Sail to Norfolk Sound for 
Repairs. — Arrival of Resanoff and Party. — The Juno sold to the 
Russians. — Departure of my Crew for Canton. 

At last I was at anchor on the Northwest Coast. New- 
ettee was one of the southernmost harbors frequented by 
American fur-traders, being in lat. 51° N., and long, 128° 
W. It was nothing more than a nook, as I said before, 
in the northern end of Vancouver's Island. We found it 
tolerably well sheltered from all winds except those from 
the north and northeast; on this quarter it was exposed to 
a reach of about three miles. As the prevalent wind during 

* Ever since Captain Robert Gray of Tiverton, R. I., master of the 
ship Columbia of Boston, had, in 1792, sailed his vessel into the great 
river to which he gave the name of his ship, the trade of the north- 
west coast had been almost entirely in the hands of Boston merchants. 
The natives called all traders "Boston Men." So, in the days of the 
Crusades, the Saracens called all Crusaders "Franks" because of the 
overwhelming predominance of the French nation. The Crusades 
were the "Gesta Dei per Francos." Captain Gray's act laid the founda- 
tion for the American title to Oregon. — Ed. 



112 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

our stay of ten days was from the south and southwest, we 
lay in perfect safety, notwithstanding it was one continued 
gale, accompanied with hail and rain. Everything around 
us, the sea, the sky, and the precipitous shore, covered with 
a forest of heavy timber, wore a most gloomy aspect. The 
Indians had no permanent residence here, but made it 
merely a place of resort for traffic on the arrival of ships. 
For this purpose it was considered at certain seasons one 
of the best harbors on the coast, as there are many large 
villages in its vicinity. We were visited daily by a great 
number of the Indians, who generally brought with them 
a few sea-otter skins, but not enough to make trade brisk. 
They were exceedingly sharp in all their intercourse with 
us, being great beggars, withal. It seemed impossible to 
satisfy them for their skins, and they were ready to grasp 
at everything they saw. They were a very stout and robust 
people, and in some things not destitute of skill. Their 
boats were hewn from a single log, and varied in size from 
sixteen feet in length and three in breadth, to thirty-five in 
length and six in breadth. Their paddles were made and 
ornamented with a great deal of neatness. 

Deriving but little benefit from our traffic, we employed 
ourselves in putting the ship in good order for beating about 
the coast. By the 20th we had completed our work, and 
weighed anchor, and put to sea in company with the Pearl, 
directing our course to the northward of Kygarney, a har- 
bor in lat. 54° 30' N., which, from its central situation, is 
considered the best place of resort for ships on their first 
arrival, to obtain information for establishing a rate of 
trade. ' For several days we sailed in a thick fog, which, 
lifting at intervals, showed us different points of Queen 
Charlotte's Island. We gained our port on the 27th, and 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 113 

found there the ships Vancouver, Captain Brown, and Caro- 
Hne, Captain Sturgis, both of Boston; the latter, having 
obtained her cargo, about to leave the coast for Canton. 

During our stay here we got in a new mizzen-mast in 
place of the old one, which was sprung, and furnished our 
vessel with such other spars as we thought we should need. 
We were daily visited by the Indians, who generally brought 
a few skins ; but they were so extravagant in their demands 
for them that it was impossible to trade. We frequently 
had thirty or forty lying about the decks the whole day 
long, endeavoring to extort unreasonable prices for their 
furs, at the same time affecting the utmost indifference 
whether they sold them or not. Occasionally they were 
quite insulting ; but policy induced us to put up with insults, 
in hopes of driving a bargain. 

The numerous inlets in the vicinity abounded with sal- 
mon, and every other variety of fish, and wild game was 
very plenty. But on the whole the harbor was poor and 
unsafe. The land here, as at Newettee, was exceedingly 
elevated, rising abruptly from the shore, and covered with 
heavy timber, chiefly of the fir kind. The water is very 
deep, which compelled a vessel to anchor so near the land 
as to be exposed to any hostile demonstration on the part 
of the savages.* Attacks were not rare when only one ship 
was in port. From long intercourse with American traders, 
the natives had become extremely expert in the use of the 
musket, in the choice of which they showed great judgment 
and sagacity, and invariably selected a king's arm in prefer- 
ence to the most finished fowling-piece. On account of the 
many instances of bloodshed by them, they were not allowed 

*Cooper seized upon this well known fact for some striking passages 
in his novel "Afloat and Ashore." — Ed. 



114 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

to come on board armed, but it was necessary to show them 
every indulgence within the bounds of prudence. 

Not being Hkely to receive much benefit from a longer 
stay here, I resolved to proceed at once to the settlement of 
the Russians on Norfolk Sound, since a great part of my 
cargo consisted of articles adapted to their use. We had 
rum, tobacco, molasses, sugar, rice, wooden ware, duffels,* 
&c., which the Indians will take only as presents, as well 
as those commodities intended for trade with them, viz. 
blankets, muskets, powder, and balls. 

On the 7th of May we put to sea, with pleasant weather 
and a moderate breeze from the west, and directed our 
course to the northward. On the 8th, the wind increased 
to a gale, and veered to the south, which brought thick fog 
and rain. On the 9th it became clear, and we obtained a 
good view of the land, and discovered that we were near 
the entrance of the sound, about mid-channel, with Mount 
Edgecombe bearing northwest, ten miles distant. We stood 
in under a press of sail, and at about eleven came to anchor 
in Magee's Harbor, as it was called, on the west side of 
the sound. We found erected on the shore a guide-post, 
pointing out the direction of the village, and the date of 
its establishment. We were soon visited by several bai- 
darkast with Kodiak Indians, from whom we endeavored 
to obtain information. The only word they used, which 
we could understand, was Baranoff, which we knew to be 
the name of the governor or superintendent of the settle- 

* Dufifel, a coarse woollen cloth named from the town near Antwerp 
in which it was manufactured. — Ed. 

t Leather canoes. They consist of a skeleton of wood, over which 
is stretched a covering made of the skins of sea-lions. They are long 
and narrow, and hold from one to three persons. Each person sits 
in a round hole just fatted to the size of the body.— [Author's note.] 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 115 

ment. As soon as the news of our arrival in the sound 
reached there, a pilot was despatched to our assistance, and, 
the wind being favorable, he brought us round to the village, 
and we anchored on the loth of May abreast of the fort. 

Mr. Abraham Jones, an American in the Russian service, 
immediately came on board, with the Governor's compli- 
ments, and kind offers of protection, and any aid we might 
need which it was in his power to give. Accompanied by 
Mr. Moorfield, I accepted an invitation to go on shore and 
have an interview with him. Mr. Jones officiated as inter- 
preter. I was introduced by him to his Excellency, and 
received with every mark of friendship and hospitality. 
After exchanging the usual compliments, we were ushered 
into an apartment where we found a table spread with all 
the luxuries the place afforded. While we regaled our- 
selves with the sumptuous fare, the conversation turned 
to the subject of my cargo. The Governor appeared willing 
and desirous to exchange furs on fair terms for such articles 
as they needed. We returned on board in the evening, well 
pleased with our reception, I might say agreeably disap- 
pointed, as I had been led to believe from various reports 
that we should find the Russians little advanced from the 
savage state. 

As the success of my voyage depended on the utmost 
possible despatch, no time was lost in establishing a rate 
of exchange with our new friends; which being adjusted 
to our mutual advantage, I was enabled to disencumber the 
vessel of a large portion of the bulkiest part of my cargo, 
— such as has been mentioned on a preceding page. 

From the kind treatment received from the Governor, 
I was induced to form a very favorable opinion of him. 
He was sixty-five years of age, and had spent the last 



ii6 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

eighteen years of his Hfe at different stations on the coast, 
in the capacity of agent and officer of the Russian Amer- 
ican Company, — excluded, as it were, from all civilized 
society, except that of a few of his fellow-adventurers. He 
possessed a strong mind, easy manners and deportment, 
and was apparently well fitted for the place he filled. He 
commanded the greatest respect from the Indians, who re- 
garded him with mingled feelings of love and fear. 

Owing to frequent storms of rain, which unavoidably 
retarded the progress of our business, my stay at this place 
was prolonged until the 27th of May. With pleasant 
weather and a moderate breeze we then weighed anchor, 
and sailed from Norfolk Sound. We proceeded up Chatham 
Straits as high as Lynn Canal, in lat. 59° N., thence south- 
ward to Newettee in lat. 51° N., touching at as many of 
the intermediate harbors as we found it practicable, and 
making some trade. We arrived at Newettee on the 28tli 
of June, at the same time with the brig Lydia and the ships 
Vancouver and Athawalpa. The latter had been attacked 
by the Indians, who killed Capt. Porter and all the officers, 
and wounded many of the sailors. She had fallen in with 
the other ship and brig, belonging to the same owners, and 
had proceeded to this place for assistance. Here we found 
the Pearl and the Mary. 

I shall not attempt a detail of the occurrences, or give 
a description of the harbors and inlets we visited in our 
voyage from Norfolk Sound. While here we rendered all 
the assistance in our power in manning and equipping the 
Athawalpa for Canton, and then, on the nth of July, again 
left Newettee and sailed northward for Chatham Straits. 
Touching at a number of places on our passage, on the 27th 
we entered the mouth of the straits, and proceeded up as 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 117 

far as Point Retreat in lat. 58° N. Here the Indians were 
very numerous, and appeared to have a great number of 
skins for sale, but decHned trading, unless we brought the 
ship to anchor, which was unnecessary, as the wind was 
light and the sea smooth. There was nothing to interrupt 
a traffic if they really felt willing to open one; but, in order 
to comply with their wishes as far as possible, I made 
several attempts to get an anchorage, and was only pre- 
vented by the depth of the water. Still the Indians kept 
round us in great numbers, there being at least thirty or 
forty canoes of them. At the same time we perceived that 
they were all armed, and this, with their obstinacy, gave 
us strong suspicions that they were bent on mischief more 
than commerce. As it was nearly sunset, and there was 
no prospect of bringing them to terms, I concluded to make 
the best of my way down the straits. The wind was light, 
and the tide against us. The Indians, seeing plainly that 
we could make but little progress in the course of the night, 
went on shore, and returned at daylight. They came with 
the apparent determination to board us ; but in their absence 
we had made ample preparations to meet in a hostile as 
well as a friendly manner. Seeing the impossibility of ob- 
taining access to the ship by force, they changed their 
tactics, and were inclined to trade with us in a peaceable 
way. We therefore admitted one of the chiefs at the gang- 
way, and through him commenced a brisk traffic, which 
continued until we had bought their whole stock of furs. 
They then left us to continue our course down the straits 
without molestation. 

On the 5th of August we came to anchor in an extensive 
harbor, situated near the entrance of Chatham Straits, be- 
tween Points Sullivan and Ellis. Here we were detained 



ii8 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

several days by calms and light westerly winds, which blew 
directly into the harbor, while the entrance was so narrow 
that we found it impossible to beat out. On the loth we 
got under weigh, with the boats ahead to tow; but the ebb 
tide began to run very strong, and drift the ship towards 
a small island lying midway in the channel. Notwith- 
standing our utmost efforts to avoid it by the use of oars 
and letting go an anchor, in the darkness which had come 
on we had approached nearer the shore than we supposed, 
and finally the keel struck upon the rocks. The stream 
anchor was carried out with all possible despatch in order 
to heave the vessel off, but in vain. The falling tide had 
left her too fast. The only alternative left was to secure 
her in the best manner possible before she began to keel 
over, and to prepare ourselves for defence in case of an 
attack from the savages. Having furled all the sails, sent 
down the top-gallant yards and masts, and lashed our heavy 
guns amidship, we equipped our three boats with arms, 
ammunition, and provision, lest the ship should bilge, which 
we had great reason to apprehend, as we had still on board 
about two thirds of our cargo. But as the tide left her 
we found that she did not lie so much on her beam-ends 
as we had anticipated, but was supported by three sharp 
rocks, one about midships, and the other two abreast the 
fore and mizzen chains; her keel had also taken the rocks 
in several places. 

At sunrise the Indians began to assemble about us. At 
first they kept aloof, and seemed to entertain some suspicions 
as to our movements; but after going round the ship and 
examining her situation very carefully, we prevailed upon 
some of them to come alongside. We gave them to under- 
stand that we had hauled on shore to mend the copper; 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 119 

and to convince them, I employed a gang of hands under 
the ship's bottom for that purpose. At 9 A. M. we had 
low water, and as the perpendicular rise and fall of the 
tide was about fifteen feet, we could now walk all round 
the vessel, and under the keel in some places. In the mean 
time some of the officers were employed in trading with 
the Indians for their furs; and to make ourselves secure 
in case they had any hostile intentions, we succeeded in 
enticing one of the chiefs on board, whom we detained as 
a hostage. Thus relieved in a measure from any appre- 
hension of an attack from the natives, and having done 
everything in our power to ease the ship, we lost no time 
in caulking and stopping in the best possible manner such 
places as had been strained open by her ponderous weight 
upon the rocks. The two seams below the plank-sheer were 
nearly an inch wide, as likewise every butt from the fore to 
the mizzen-mast. To clear the bilge of the ship we rigged 
one of our pumps in the main hatchway, and drew out a 
considerable quantity of molasses and water. After some 
brisk work, we had the satisfaction of finding that the 
vessel righted with the flowing tide, and at high water, to 
our great joy, she floated. When we hauled into the stream 
again, we were happy to find that she did not leak so badly 
as we had reason to anticipate. The only perceptible injury 
was on the side which laid on the rocks, and that was bent 
or hogged up, as the phrase is, about half a foot. We now 
liberated our hostage, after making him a very liberal pres- 
ent for his detention. 

While we were aground, we had a favorable opportunity 
to examine the copper on the ship's bottom, which proved 
to be in a very shattered condition; and as we had reason 
to apprehend more damage than was visible, I deemed it 



I20 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

advisable to proceed at once to the Russian settlement at 
Norfolk Sound, where, under protection from the Indians, 
we might discharge our cargo, and make repairs in peace. 
Accordingly, on the 12th of August we put to sea, and 
made the best of our way for that place. On our route 
we fell in again with the Mary, and, in company with her, 
arrived on the 14th, and anchored abreast the village. I 
was again received by Governor Baranofif with that kind 
and obliging hospitality which made him loved and re- 
spected by every visitor. 

No time was lost in preparing to lay the Juno on shore, 
in order to ascertain the extent of the damage. In this 
I was greatly facilitated by the Governor, who allowed me 
to occupy an old hulk, into which I shifted my cargo, with 
the exception of the furs. We had collected about a thou- 
sand sea-otter skins, and these I sent to Canton by the 
Mary, which sailed on the 20th. Notwithstanding our 
utmost exertions, our preparations were not completed 
until the ist of September, and then, to my great surprise 
and regret, I found twenty of the floor timbers broken, and 
the copper in a very ragged condition. I was, however, 
gratified to find the planks all sound and good except in 
one place, where the carpenter cut out a large fragment 
of the rock, which had penetrated the bottom, and adhered 
so closely as to prevent the admission of water. By the 
6th of September we had completed such repairs as were 
practicable and hauled into the stream, knowing no other 
alternative than to make the best of our crippled ship, and 
endeavor to prosecute the remainder of our voyage with 
more caution. 

Having again adjusted the rigging, replenished our 
stores of wood and water, and put everything in the best 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 121 

possible trim for sea, I submitted to Governor Baranoff a 
project of an expedition to the southern coast of New Al- 
bion and California, which he readily accepted. My idea 
was to take on board fifty or sixty Kodiak Indians, with 
their canoes, for the purpose of catching sea-otter, those 
animals being very numerous on that coast. Everything in 
this new plan being agreed upon and settled, we were to 
wait until the ist of October for the Indians, who were 
out on a hunting expedition, under the protection of two 
small vessels, and expected to return by the last of the 
month. 

While we were waiting, the Russian brig Maria arrived 
at the settlement. She was under the command of Andrew 
W. Maschin, a lieutenant in the navy, and had on board 
as passenger Nicholas Resanoff, a nobleman, who, after 
an unsuccessful embassy to Japan, returned to Kamtchatka 
en route to the posts on the Northwest Coast belonging to 
the Russian American Company, in which he was himself 
a large proprietor. With him came also two other lieuten- 
ants in the Russian navy, Nicholas Schwostoff and John 
Davidoff, Doctor Geo. Langsdorff, and two ship-carpenters, 
Messrs. Koriikin and Popoff, who were to build a ship at 
this place. To all these new-comers I was formally intro- 
duced by my friend the Governor, and received the assur- 
ances of his Excellency, Baron von Resanoff, that he would 
facilitate, in every way in his power, the execution of my 
California scheme. Several days after this arrival were 
passed in festivity and mirth, and business was entirely 
suspended. The appearance of so distinguished a person- 
age, whose authority was for a time to supersede even that 
of the Governor, was an event of great moment. 

In conversation with Dr. Langsdorff on the inconvenience 



122 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

of building and equipping a large vessel where the neces- 
sary materials were so difficult to procure, I observed to 
him, jocosely, that I would sell them my ship, which would 
obviate the necessity of building. The conversation being 
communicated to his Excellency, he wished to know whether 
I would really sell my ship, and if so, what would be the 
price. This was a subject on which I had not reflected, 
and which required some deliberation on several accounts. 
Having about two thirds of my cargo on board, it was 
necessary to ascertain of what it consisted to estimate its 
value, being well aware that I could not dispose of my 
vessel by itself alone. How my officers and crew were to 
leave the coast was another serious difficulty. But while 
I was deliberating on the expediency of the measure, the 
two small vessels, the Yermerk and Russisloff, which I 
mentioned above, returned from the hunting expedition. 
The former, a craft of forty tons, appeared to be suitable 
for my purpose, and I therefore availed myself of the op- 
portunity, and offered my ship, and the remainder of my 
cargo, for the sum of $68,000, payable in the following 
manner, viz. : bills of exchange on the Directors of the Rus- 
sian American Company at St. Petersburg for the sum of 
$54,638; 572 sea-otter skins for the sum of $13,062; and 
$300 in cash; together with the fore-named vessel, the 
Yermerk, completely rigged, two suits of sails, four car- 
riage guns, thirty muskets, with ammunition for the same, 
and provisions for my crew for one hundred days. This 
offer was accepted, and the Juno passed into the hands of 
the Russian American Company. On the 5th of October, 
I delivered her up, under a salute from the fort and the 
ship, when I hoisted the stars and stripes on the Yermerk, 
which had become my property. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 123 

Having- consummated our bargain by delivering up our 
ship, and taking possession of our little craft, we set to 
work immediately to put her into a condition to transport 
ourselves and the sea-otter skins to Canton. This work 
was completed by the 15th; and while we were waiting for 
favorable weather to put to sea, his Excellency suggested 
to me the advisability of despatching the Yermerk for 
Canton, and remaining myself at the settlement until spring, 
and then embarking with himself and suite for Ochotsk, 
and proceeding to St. Petersburg by land. The kind and 
courteous manner in which this proposition was made to 
me was too flattering to be received with indifference. After 
duly considering the subject, having in view the probable 
advantage of presenting my bills of exchange in person 
the next winter, in accordance with the advice of my 
friends, I concluded to avail myself of his Excellency's 
generous offer. I therefore gave the command of the Yer- 
merk to my first officer, Mr. George W. Stetson, and the 
superintendence of the business to Mr. James Moorfield. 
Storms and adverse winds prevented them from sailing 
until the 27th, when, with a favorable breeze, they took 
their departure from Norfolk Sound, with our most fervent 
prayers for their welfare and safe arrival at Canton. 

After taking a long parting look at the little vessel fading 
in the horizon, I returned to the village, full of melancholy 
forebodings of a tedious and dreary winter in that rude 
and inhospitable region. But it was of no use to repine; 
the business was settled, and I concluded I would take 
things as they came, and make the best of them. I had 
retained in my service, as valet, Edward D. Parker, one 
of my ordinary sailors, but a very useful man of all work. 
A barber by trade, he was also a tolerably good tailor, and 



124 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

performer on the violin and clarinet. This latter accom- 
plishment I thought might be useful in dispelling the blues, 
if we should at any time be troubled with that complaint. 
An apartment was assigned me by the Governor, adjoining 
the room of Dr. Langsdorfif, to which I removed my goods 
and chattels. I had a sleeping bunk fitted up in one corner, 
and made everything as comfortable as possible for a long 
siege. Having thus taken up my residence among the 
Russians, I will pause to make some explanations connected 
with my narrative. 



IIL 

Nicholas Resanoff and the Japan Expedition. — The History of the 
Russian Settlement at Norfolk Sound and the Founding of New 
Archangel. — The Chinese Project. — Dr. Langsdorfif and other New- 
Friends. — Visit to the Indians driven by the Russians from Arch- 
angel. 

In September, 1803, an expedition sailed from Cron- 
stadt, Russia, for the Pacific Ocean, consisting of the two 
ships Nadeschda and Neva, the former commanded by Capt. 
Krusenstern, and the latter by Capt. Lisiansky, both ex- 
perienced officers of the Imperial navy. This was the first 
adventure the Russians ever attempted in the Southern 
Ocean, and was prompted by the extension of the trade of 
the Russian American Fur Company. It had the double 
purpose of supplying the settlements on the Northwest 
Coast, and negotiating a commercial treaty with Japan, 
which, being near the settlements, would be a convenient 
place to obtain provisions and dispose of commodities. En- 
couragement had been given by a letter received many years 
previous from the Japanese, granting permission to come to 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 125 

the port of Nangasaki; on the strength of this letter, and 
in view of the advantages and facihties for intercourse, 
it was thought expedient by the Imperial government to 
send an embassy to this strange people. Accordingly, Nich- 
olas Resanoff, a nobleman and Chamberlain to his Majesty, 
the Emperor of all the Russias, was appointed, and em- 
barked in the Nadeschda, with powers plenipotentiary to 
negotiate with the Court of Jedo. This part of the under- 
taking, as is well known, proved a failure. After remain- 
ing at Nangasaki six months, subject a part of the time to 
a partial imprisonment, and throughout to absurd formal- 
ities and ridiculous vexations, he despaired of bringing 
about a favorable result, and was compelled to depart for 
Kamtchatka, without even obtaining an interview with the 
Emperor, and, in fact, accomplishing nothing. 

Baron von Resanoff was a person of rank and distinction, 
possessed of many amiable qualities, and highly esteemed 
by the Emperor Alexander, He was kind and affable to all 
around him, and always ready to hear complaints, and af- 
ford every redress in his power for grievances. He married 
the daughter of the famous Schelikoff, who was the pioneer 
in the Russian discoveries and settlements on the Northwest 
Coast. This circumstance caused him to be largely inter- 
ested in the Fur Company. His mission to Japan having 
terminated unfavorably, his intention then was to visit and 
inspect all the stations of the Company on the coast. He 
left the Nadeschda therefore at Kamtchatka, and embarked 
on board the brig Maria. After touching at various Rus- 
sian establishments, he finally arrived at Norfolk Sound, 
The Neva, Captain Lisiansky, pursued its course directly 
to the island of Kodiak, and thence to Norfolk Sound, 
where it arrived August 20, 1804, and joined, by previous 



126 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

agreement, a small squadron of three vessels under the 
command of Governor Baranoff. 

The Russians had formerly a settlement on the Sound, 
situated several miles from their present location, called 
Archangel, which was destroyed by the Indians, and all the 
inhabitants massacred. The Indians then established them- 
selves on the spot, and erected strong fortifications. The 
object of assembling the vessels was to chastise and expel 
them, and this was accomplished after a siege of four days. 
The Russians then selected an elevated and commanding 
situation in the immediate vicinity. It was a singular round 
piece of land with a flat top, standing out in the sea, and 
bearing the appearance of a work of human hands. The 
only connection with the shore was by a narrow isthmus. 
Here they put up several buildings, mounted a considerable 
battery of heavy guns, and gave the place the name of New 
Archangel. 

The Neva then returned to Kodiak, where she wintered, 
and in the fall of 1805 proceeded to Canton and rejoined 
the Nadeschda, which had previously sailed thither. The 
aim in this movement was lo accomplish a third project 
of the Russian American Company, which, like the Japan 
scheme, was unsuccessful. They desired to obtain permis- 
sion from the Chinese government to continue their 
intercourse with the port of Canton, and so enable their 
ships to return by sea from the settlements to Russia, with 
the proceeds of their furs. But the Chinese objected, and 
insisted on their confining themselves to their inland traffic 
at the north. Thus commerce for the future with Canton 
was interdicted. I relate these events because they took 
place but a short time previous to my sojourn at Norfolk 
Sound, and account for the presence there of several per- 
sons of distinction. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 127 

George von Langsdorff,* a native of Frankfort, Ger- 
many, was by profession a doctor of medicine and surgery, 
and by taste a naturalist. He was a volunteer on the Rus- 
sian American expedition, and was in pursuit of science. 
On his arrival in Kamtchatka a second time, he was invited 
by Baron von Resanoff to accompany him to the Northwest 
Coast of America, as his physician. He was particularly 
moved to accept the invitation by the opportunity which 
was thus offered for the collection of specimens of natural 
history. The Doctor, unlike Baron von Resanoff, spoke 
the English language fluently. As I lived under the same 
roof with him, we became almost inseparable, participating 
both in each others' pleasures and troubles. Lieutenants 

* George von Langsdorff was born in Heidelberg in the Grand Duchy 
of Baden in 1774, his father being at that time Chancellor of the Uni- 
versity of Heidelberg. Having taken the degree of Doctor of Medi- 
cine at the University of Gottingen, he shortly afterward went with 
Prince Waldeck to Lisbon as his physician. On the death of the 
Prince he returned by way of England to his home. At the age of 
thirty he accompanied Admiral Krusenstern, as botanist, on a voyage 
around the world. Emperor Alexander I of Russia made him a 
Knight of the Order of St. Anne with the rank of Aulic Councillor, 
and also made him a Baron. Later he appointed him Consul General 
at the port of Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, a post which he held with honor 
for many years. He died at Freiburg, Baden, in 1852, in the seventy- 
eighth year of his age. Besides other volumes he published an ac- 
count of his trip around the world under the title "Bemerkungen auf 
einer Reise um die Welt in den Jahren 1803 bis 1807 von Copenhagen 
nach Brasilien, der Sudsee, Kamtschatka, und Japan." The second 
volume treats of his journey "Von Kamtschatka nach der Insel St. 
Paul, Unalaska, Kodiak, Sitcha, Neu Albion, Kamtschatka, Ochotsk 
und durch Sibirien nach St. Petersburg." Captain DeWolf must have 
had a translation of this volume at hand when he wrote his own story. 
The German naturalist and the American sea captain were evidently 
"two of a kind." How highly the American esteemed his friend may 
be judged from the fact that he named his only son John Langsdorff. 
The boy was always called Langsdorff. — Ed. 



128 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Schwostoff, Davidoff, and Maschin were highly accom- 
plished and meritorious officers, as were likewise the two 
ship-builders, Messrs. Popoff and Koriikin. They all 
seemed to vie in attention and kindness to me as their 
guest, and by general invitation I dined with these gentle- 
men at the Governor's table. 

The stock of provisions at the settlement had been very 
small and of the poorest kind, and the increase of the popu- 
lation by the arrival of the Ambassador and his suite made 
the subject of supplies for the coming winter a matter for 
sober consideration; but by the purchase of the Juno they 
were relieved from all serious anxiety on that score, as a 
great part of her cargo consisted of good wholesome pro- 
visions, such as beef, pork, flour, bread, rice, sugar, mo- 
lasses, rum, and tobacco. In fact, the desire to obtain these 
stores had great weight in their negotiations with me. 
There was still, however, some deficiency in inferior kinds 
of food, and a small vessel had been despatched some time 
previously to Kodiak. It was so late in the season she did 
not return. Now they were not afraid of winter storms, 
for they had the Juno to send on the errand. She sailed, 
under the command of Lieutenants Schwostoff and David- 
off, on the 27th of October. 

In the mean while the whole village, comprising a popu- 
lation of 150 Russians, and perhaps 250 Aleutians, was 
actively engaged in preparing to meet the rigors of the 
approaching season. They built log-houses, work-shops, 
and barracks. My friend Langsdorff was all the time 
ranging the woods and the shores with his fowling-piece, 
in quest of wild game for specimens, with which, after they 
had been skinned for science' sake, my man Parker made 
stews of various descriptions. Being merely a sojourner 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 129 

at the settlement, I occupied myself in watching the labors 
of others, getting acquainted with the different characters 
and localities of the place, and learning the use and man- 
agement of baidarkas. 

By the beginning of November the novelty of our situa- 
tion had worn off; the circumscribed range of our wander- 
ings from the village became monotonous and tiresome, 
and, as a number of our associates had departed for Kodiak, 
we began to look round for some new object of interest. 
The Doctor had frequently expressed a desire to become 
more acquainted with the Sitcha Indians, and resolved on 
making them a visit at their village, on the opposite side 
of the island, if I would accompany him, to which I readily 
agreed. As these were the very Indians who had recently 
been so roughly handled by the Russians, it was considered 
by the Governor and other friends to be a rather perilous 
adventure; but we relied a good deal on our not being 
Russians, and upon the fact that I had been among them 
during the previous summer from a people with whom they 
were on friendly terms. Perceiving that we were bent on 
going, the Governor gave his consent, and furnished us with 
baidarkas, Kodiak Indians, and an Indian woman as an 
interpreter. The latter was a daughter of one of the prin- 
cipal chiefs of the tribe we were to visit. She had lived 
with the Russians five or six years, and with her as a 
companion we had little fear of any other than a friendly 
reception. 

We soon completed the preparations for our departure. 
We took guns, pistols, powder, and shot, for shooting as 
well as for safety ; rice, tea, sugar, biscuit, dried fish, and 
brandy, for our food. Beside some kitchen utensils for 
dressing these provisions and a small tent to sleep in, we 



I30 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

were provided with several ells of linen and woollen cloth, 
glass beads, needles, tobacco, large fishing-hooks, looking- 
glasses, and various similar trifles for presents to the In- 
dians. Langsdorff, the interpreter, and myself each occupied 
a baidarka, and had two natives each to row. 

We were three days in reaching the village, but beyond 
a few Indians, with whom we encamped at night, we saw 
nothing of interest. By nightfall of the third day we had 
nearly reached the place of our destination; but owing to 
a strong wind and tide, which were directly against us, we 
had the mortification of seeing the sun go down before the 
whole distance was accomplished. We were now in rather 
an unpleasant situation; to return was impossible, and to 
land might have excited suspicion, for the fire which was 
necessary as a protection from the cold would have betrayed 
us. We determined at last to make our way to the settle- 
ment, notwithstanding we should reach it in utter darkness. 
Scarcely was this resolution taken, when we were observed 
from the land, and hailed in a loud voice, but neither our 
interpreter nor our Kodiak oarsmen would reply. This 
sorely provoked Langsdorff and myself, and we were on 
the point of expressing our anger warmly, when a great 
commotion arose on shore. Suddenly, some hundred naked 
Indians, armed with muskets, and holding firebrands in 
their hands, thronged to the water's edge. No sooner had 
we made known who we were, and approached the shore, 
than we were surrounded in a tumultuous manner by the 
Kaluschians, who dragged us towards their fortress, seizing 
•upon our effects at the same time, whether to rob us of 
them or to restore them we were then ignorant. I expected 
nothing but an immediate and violent death. The scene 
certainly was one to inspire terror; the glare of the torches, 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 131 

the gesticulations of the savages, the brandishing of the 
weapons, the rough handhng we received, were not cal- 
culated to inspire confidence in men whom from the outset 
we had distrusted. But happily our fears were groundless, 
and the demonstrations of the natives, as we afterwards 
learned, were well intended offices of friendship. 

We were hurried over a rather fatiguing road to the top 
of a high rock, on which stood the fortress, and were im- 
mediately introduced into the very spacious habitation of 
the chief Dlchaetin, the father of our interpreter. He as- 
signed us a place directly opposite the entrance, where we 
spread a carpet, and, by the light of a very large fire on 
a raised hearth in the centre of the room, were subjected 
to the gaze of some hundreds of the natives. Shortly after, 
to our great astonishment, our packages were brought to 
us from our baidarkas, not the smallest trifle being with- 
held, although there were undoubtedly many articles among 
them which the bearers must have coveted, and under the 
cover of the night might have easily concealed. Even my 
musket, pistols, and powder-horn, which in my hurry I had 
left behind, were delivered to me without the slightest 
injury. 

We had scarcely refreshed ourselves with a dish of tea 
and a glass of punch, when we were invited by the eldest 
and most distinguished of the chiefs, the commandant of 
the fortress, to come and visit him. He received us with 
much kindness, and presented me with a sea-otter's skin, 
and Dr. Langsdorfif with a beautiful sea-otter's tail. Much 
fatigued, and in need of rest, we returned to the habitation 
of our host; but we found ourselves in too exciting a scene 
to permit of sleep. While eating a very good dish of fish 
and rice prepared by him, we were entertained with a lively 



132 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

and pleasing melody, sung by a number of men seated 
round the fire, which had been piled up to a great height. 
Though the night was cold and windy, the savages went 
barefoot to the neighboring forest, and brought home large 
blocks of wood upon their naked shoulders, and heaped 
them on the hearth. It was incomprehensible how the roof, 
covered as it was merely with bark, was not entirely con- 
sumed. Once it did take fire; but a boy ran like a mouse 
up the side of the wall, and extinguished it. The sparks 
flew out of the opening at the top, and the flames roared 
as in a blacksmith's forge ; and we could not close our eyes 
till their fierceness had in a measure subsided, and the dan- 
ger was less imminent, though the fire was very hot through 
the whole night. 

On the morning of the next day we carried to the com- 
mandant from whom we had received the presents the 
evening before the counter presents due to him. At the 
same time, we made the proper tribute of presents to the 
parents of our interpreter, the latter having given us to 
understand that the sooner it was done, the greater would 
be their esteem for us. To her father we gave some ells 
of woollen cloth, a large knife, some fish-hooks, and some 
pounds of tobacco; to her mother a shift, some needles, 
a small looking-glass, some ribbon, and some glass beads. 
As soon as we had performed these necessary ceremonies, 
we were permitted to walk about wherever we chose, with- 
out the trouble of guides. Dr. Langsdorff even shot some 
birds close to the fortress without attracting any attention. 

The natives of the Northwest Coast of America are called 
by the Russians Kaluschians, but this people call themselves 
Schitchachon, or inhabitants of Sitcha. Expelled from 
Norfolk Sound, they had fortified themselves here, upon 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 133 

a rock which rose perpendicularly to the height of several 
hundred feet above the water's edge. The only possible 
access to it was on the northwest side, and here it had been 
rendered extremely difficult by very large trunks of trees 
strewn over it. The rock itself was secured against the 
attack of an enemy by a double palisade, measuring from 
twelve to fifteen feet in height, and from three to four in 
thickness. A natural wall of earth beyond the palisading, 
on the side towards the sea, conceals the habitations so ef- 
fectually, that they cannot be discerned from a ship. 

The houses within the fortress were placed in regular 
rows, and built of thick planks, fastened to posts which 
formed the frame-work, and covered at the top with bark. 
The entrance was at the gable end, and was often stained 
with different colored earths. The interiors of their dwell- 
ings were indescribably filthy, filled with smoke, and per- 
fumed with decayed fish and train-oil. The men painted 
their faces, and, as well as the women, delighted in profuse 
ornaments ; like other savages, they were particularly pleased 
with glittering trinkets, or European garments. The women 
on the coast had one very strange fashion, which I think 
is peculiar to this part of the world. At the age of fourteen 
or fifteen, they make a hole in their under lip and insert a 
small piece of wood like a button. This is increased in size 
as they advance in age, until it is three or four inches long, 
and one or two wide. I saw one old woman, the wife of 
a chief, whose lip ornament was so large, that, by a peculiar 
motion of her under lip, she could almost conceal her whole 
face with it. You will naturally inquire the reason of this 
barbarous method of adornment. I might reply by asking 
the reason of some equally strange fashions among civilized 
nations. But, without casting any reflections on my coun- 



134 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

trywomen, I may be allowed to make one observation, which 
has probably occurred already to my readers; and that is, 
that it is utterly impossible for the fair sex of the North- 
west Coast to enjoy the luxury of a kiss. 

The occupations of the Sitcha Indians, beside hunting 
and fishing, appeared to be making canoes, fishing-lines and 
hooks, and wooden ware. The women manufacture a kind 
of carpet out of the wool of wild sheep, and are very expert 
in wicker-work ; some of their baskets are so closely woven 
as to hold water. Both sexes are expert in the use of fire- 
arms, and are excellent judges of their quality. I could 
not find that they had any organized government. Success 
in fishing and in the chase constitutes the source of their 
wealth, and consequently of their influence. In feuds be- 
tween different families the right of the strongest prevails, 
and they are only banded together against common enemies. 

Having passed two days at the Indian settlement, we set 
out on our return to New Archangel. On our route we 
visited the chief Schinchetaez, with whom we had passed 
a night on our way to Sitcha. This man had been friendly 
to the Russians, and was in consequence an outcast from 
his own people. He was glad to see us again, and enter- 
tained us hospitably. We gave him a few presents, which 
were thankfully received, and, had he been able, he would 
have given in return. While with him we saw some 
Kaluschian Indians go into the sea to bathe, when the 
thermometer was below freezing. They ran for some dis- 
tance over the ice, and then plunged in, and performed all 
manner of antics, with the same apparent enjoyment as if 
it had been a warm spring. 

After taking leave of our host we entered our baidarkas 
and resumed our journey; and in due time reached New 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 135 

Archangel and our friends, without any accident or occur- 
rence of sufficient interest to record. 



IV. 

Preparations for Winter. — Winter Amusements. — Resanoff makes 
an Expedition to California. — Battle between a Wolf and a Ram. — 
I sail for Ochotsk in the Russisloff. 

Shortly after our return from the excursion narrated 
in the last chapter, our friends Schwostoff and Davidoff 
arrived from Kodiak with the Juno, and brought a con- 
siderable quantity of dried fish, oil, beans, &c., to increase 
our stock of winter provisions. The dried fish was called 
ukler, and was prepared by splitting and taking out the 
backbone of the fish, and then laying it in the sun. Thus 
cured, it was eaten as a substitute for bread. The people 
having now a fair allowance of provisions, the operations 
at the settlement went on quite encouragingly. In the course 
of the month of December the carpenter got the keel of a 
new vessel laid, and made good progress in cutting the 
timber and sawing the plank. The two brigs, Maria and 
Russisloff, were hauled upon the beach and shored up out 
of the tide's way. They furnished very good accommoda- 
tions for a large number of the workmen. The Juno re- 
mained riding at anchor in the harbor. Watchmen were 
stationed along the shore, in both directions from the fort, 
and shouted "All's well," from one end to the other, at 
intervals throughout the whole night. All were working 
cheerfully, and hard enough to kill anybody but Russians. 
The Indians made us frequent ceremonial visits, and dis- 
played their talent for long speeches and for dancing. They 



136 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

seemed anxious to bury the hatchet, and renew intercourse 
on friendly terms, which was also the wish of the settlers. 
In short, everything was in good trim for the winter. 
' The fare for the present allowed even to the poor work- 
men was tolerable, as a small portion of the cargo of the 
Juno was dealt out to them ; but the officers had the control 
of all the luxuries, — if such they may be called ; and these, 
together with the game and fish that were continually 
brought in, supplied the Governor's table with an abundance 
of good cheer. There were seven of us who regularly dined 
at it, and by invitation we frequently had ten. 

By the last of the month the weather began to grow 
cooler; yet, though it was December, we had little or no 
snow, but much rain and fog. In the forenoon I generally 
took a stroll along the shore, with my gun, to the place 
where the new vessel was building. One or two of the 
officers usually accompanied me; and after reaching the 
spot we would turn and walk the same distance, about a 
mile and a half, in the opposite direction. Sometimes we 
carried home a little game. 

January brought cold, but not severe weather. The work- 
men began to flag. The poor fellows had been driven too 
hard, regardless of wet and snow. They were now getting 
sickly, and it was found necessary to ease off their tasks 
a little. The officers, on the other hand, lived comfortably 
enough, and even started a new kind of entertainment. The 
Russians build their log houses in a very substantial manner, 
of heavy timber, and stop the cracks perfectly tight with 
moss. Some of them were very large, accommodating after 
a fashion fifty or sixty persons. Several such were com- 
pleted just at this time, and it occurred to us that they were 
well calculated for ball-rooms, and that we could pass away 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 137 

the tedious hours of the night in dancing. We made out 
bravely in cotillons and contra-dances, but were rather de- 
ficient at first in female partners. Many of the under offi- 
cers had their wives with them, and we picked out some 
of the Kodiak women, who were accustomed to the Russian 
dances, and learned the figures easily. When dressed in 
their finery they appeared quite respectably. His Excellency 
the Plenipotentiary was always with us on these occasions, 
and would upon an emergency take the fiddle, on which he 
was quite a good performer. Dr. Langsdorff and my man 
Parker took turns at the bow, and with plenty of good resin 
for the stomach as well as the bow, we made "a. gay sea- 
son" of it. 

In February the weather was rather more severe than 
the previous months, but by no means so cold as in the 
United States, latitude 42°. The harbors and inlets about 
the sound were free from ice. With all our attempts to 
get up amusements, the time hung heavily upon our hands, 
and we did little else than sleep and long for spring. The 
Sitcha Indians brought in excellent fresh halibut, which 
they exchanged for fish-hooks and old clothes. To me 
especially they were very friendly, and came often to my 
lodgings, seeming to know that I was not one of the 
Russians. 

The waters of the neighborhood abounded with numerous 
and choice varieties of the finny tribe, which could be taken 
at all seasons of the year. The poor Russians might have 
fared better than they did, had they been spared from their 
work to catch them. Labor and exposure began to tell on 
them. The scurvy had killed a number of them, and many 
were sick. Dr. Langsdorff frequently remonstrated in their 
behalf, but to little purpose. 



138 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

There had been much talk of late among the higher offi- 
cers upon the expediency of making an expedition to Cali- 
fornia, with a view to obtaining a fresh supply of provisions, 
and opening, if possible, a traffic with the Spanish Mission 
at San Francisco, By the first of March this enterprise was 
resolved upon and well matured, and active preparations 
were made to put it into immediate execution. His Ex- 
cellency, Baron von Resanoff, decided to take charge of it 
in person. This arrangement gave me some uneasiness, 
lest he should not return in time to fulfil his promise to 
proceed with me in May in the Juno to Ochotsk. I ex- 
plained to him how great the disappointment and incon- 
venience would be, if my departure was delayed until late 
in the season. But he silenced my complaints by assuring 
me that he had ordered the brig Maria, Captain Maschin, 
to be ready to sail for Ochotsk as soon as the season would 
permit. With this promise I was constrained to be satisfied. 
By the active exertion of Lieutenants Schwostoff and 
Davidoff the Juno was quickly put in sailing trim, and 
weighed anchor on the 8th of March for San Francisco. 
I was invited to accompany them, but declined. Deprived 
of my friends and companions, I occupied myself, as best 
I could, in making excursions in baidarkas about the shores 
and harbors. 

Among the domestic animals of the village — and the 
number was very limited, there being two old cows, eight 
or ten hogs, and as many dogs — there were two sheep, 
a buck and a ewe, which I had presented to the Governor 
on my first visit. The ewe in the course of the winter had 
been devoured by the wolves or the bears, as it was said; 
but I thought it more probable by some of the half-starved 
Russians. The buck became quite a pet with the settlers. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 139 

Towards spring he began to take advantage of familiar 
treatment, and show many positive signs of a pugnacious 
disposition, and with very httle respect for persons. As 
Billy and I were from the same country town, and appeared 
to be alone among strangers, I always made it a point, when 
I passed him, to salute him with the familiar phrase of 
"How are you, Billy?" and he would seem to respond by 
a look of recognition. It so happened, however, that one 
day, as I was coming from the Governor's house upon the 
hill, after a good substantial dinner, and had reached the 
beginning of the descent where stood the sentinel with Billy 
at a little distance from him, I gave him the usual greeting, 
and began to go down, when, perfectly unconscious of hav- 
ing offended man or beast, I received a contusion in the 
rear, which sent me head-foremost down the declivity with 
telegraphic velocity, and with a shock which seemed to dis- 
turb my whole stowage, even to the very ground tier. I got 
up as soon as I could collect my scattered senses, and 
brushed the dust out of my eyes, when looking up the hill 
I saw Billy, the ram, from whom I had received the assault, 
making significant demonstrations of another onslaught. I 
had scarcely scrambled a little to one side before he came 
down again full charge. This time I dodged him, and, not 
meeting the check he expected, he went a considerable dis- 
tance before he could recover himself. Still unsatisfied with 
the result, he was preparing to make another bolt up hill 
at me; but now, having the advantage of the ground, I was 
ready to receive him. The current was this time against 
him, and his headway a good deal impeded. I caught him 
by the neck and beat him, and endeavored to turn him off; 
but as soon as I let him go, he rushed upon me again. 
Finally, finding it impossible to get rid of him, I took a 



I40 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

stone to increase the solidity of my fist, with which I was 
oWiged to pound the creature till the blood ran freely. 
There was still no yield in him. The sentinel, who had till 
now been looking on, — to see fair play, I suppose, — see- 
ing that I should probably kill him, left his post and came 
to the rescue. Thus ended the farcical scene of a battle 
between a sheep and a Wolf, in which neither could right- 
fully claim the victory. 

April came, and no movement was made towards getting 
the Maria off the beach, preparatory to the voyage to 
Ochotsk. Captain Maschin complained that he could not 
get men. In fact, there was so much work to be done at 
the settlement, and the number of hands so much reduced 
by the California expedition, that it was impossible to spare 
laborers for the vessels. Moreover, many of them were 
sick, and among the healthy there were no sailors ; so opera- 
tions in the navigation line were suspended. 

May commenced with quite pleasant and warm weather. 
About the loth, the ship Okain, Captain Jonathan Winship, 
arrived at the sound. He came direct from the United 
States without any cargo, but for the express purpose of 
obtaining Kodiak Indians and baidarkas for a voyage to 
California to catch sea-otter, on the same plan I had re- 
linquished on the sale of my ship. He made all the neces- 
sary arrangements, and sailed about the middle of the 
month. 

The mild weather melted the snow very fast, and by the 
last of May the frost was all out of the ground. Governor 
Baranoff was desirous of having a good kitchen garden, 
and so, to commence the business with a sort of flourish, 
we made up a pretty substantial picnic party. A little way 
back from the shore we found a considerable clearing with- 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 141 

out underbrush, and here we staked out about two acres of 
land. It was good soil, deep and rich, and we all tried our 
hand at the spade. The Governor setting the example, we 
went to work with a good will. Soon getting tired, we 
adjourned to the refreshments, at which it was thought 
we showed more talent than at the spade. Some of us, they 
told us, got quite blue by the time we had finished our labors. 
This was the first ground ever broken for a garden at New 
Archangel. Another diversion was taking salmon, which 
at this season ran up into the creeks and inlets in great 
numbers. As many of the people as could be detached from 
their regular occupations were set to catching them, and 
curing them for winter provisions, in the manner I have 
before described. 

While waiting impatiently for the arrival of the Juno, 
I made many excursions about the sound in my baidarka. 
About seven or eight miles from the village, there was a 
hot-water spring which I visited. Situated in a beautiful, 
romantic place, the water runs down from the foot of a 
liigh mountain, in a small serpentine rivulet, for several 
hundred yards, and empties into a broad basin, several rods 
in diameter, which has a sandy bottom. The heat of the 
water at its source is about 150°, and as it spreads over 
the basin below it cools down to 100°. It is strongly im- 
pregnated with sulphur, and with salt and magnesia. 

To our great joy, on the 21st of June the Juno returned 
from California, with all our friends and a tolerable supply 
of wheat, jerked beef, English beans, &c. ; but his Excel- 
lency failed to make any arrangement for the future. The 
Governor of San Francisco remonstrated against sending 
■Russian subjects to hunt sea-otter on the shores and in the 
harbors of New Albion, and prevailed upon Baron von 



142 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Resanojfif to promise to put a stop to all adventures of that 
nature. 

I immediately applied to Resanoff to know how and when 
he intended to fulfil his promise of providing me a passage 
to Ochotsk. It was now the last of June, and there were 
no preparations in either of the vessels for that purpose. 
He told me that the Juno should be got ready as soon as 
the little vessel could be rigged to accompany her; but the 
little vessel was yet on the stocks, and it did not appear to 
me, from the rate at which the work was progressing, that 
she would be in sailing order before August. In fact, I 
became quite alarmed, lest the season should be so far ad- 
vanced that I should be obliged to make a winter journey 
across the Russian Empire. I had had some conversation 
with Dr. Langsdorff about taking the brig Russisloff, if 
they would allow me, and making my own way to Ochotsk. 
The Doctor eagerly caught at the idea, and resolved to go 
with me, if I could obtain her. I accordingly made the 
proposal to his Excellency, and it was readily accepted. He 
offered to put as many men to work upon the Russisloff 
as I needed. She was a little craft of twenty-five tons 
burden, built by the Russian American Company at Bher- 
ing's Bay, and in construction a kind of nondescript. She 
was lying high and dry upon the beach, but, with the assist- 
ance rendered, I had her ready for sea in less than a week, 
well stored with a plenty of the best provisions the place 
afforded. My crew consisted of seven men, three of whom 
were Indians and natives of Alashka, making with Dr. 
Langsdorff, my man Parker, and myself, ten in all. I am 
happy to say that everything was done by the authorities 
to expedite my departure, and they all seemed anxious to 
show me every kindness and attention in their power. Hav- 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 143 

ing been furnished with the necessary papers for my voyage, 
I took leave of his Excellency Baron von Resanoff, Gov- 
ernor Baranoff, and my other friends, and put to sea on 
the 30th of June, 1806, shaping my course for the island 
of Kodiak. 



Dull Sailing. — I touch at Kodiak and Alashka. — Take in Passengers 
at Oonalashka. — No Prospect of completing my Voyage this Season. 
— Determine to winter at Petropowlowsk. 

Being at sea again, and on my own vessel, I had leisure 
for a more deliberate view of the step I had taken, in at- 
tempting to seek my own way to Ochotsk, in preference 
to waiting for the Juno. My little craft was large and safe 
enough for my purpose; but I was now convinced by her 
sluggish motion that it was very doubtful whether I gained 
the port of my destination before it was too late in the 
autumn to pursue my journey across Siberia. Our best 
sailing before the wind was hardly five knots, and by the 
wind two and a half. We had a voyage of 2,500 miles 
before us, and at a season of the year in that water most 
subject to calms, light winds, and fogs. 

This tract of ocean, from longitude 130° west, along the 
entire coast of Alashka and through the seas of Kamtchatka 
and Ochotsk, was at that time the great place of resort of 
the right whale. Persecuted in all its other haunts, it had 
sought refuge in this northern region, where as yet a whale- 
ship had never made its appearance. We were frequently 
surrounded by them. Sometimes they would take a posi- 
tion at the windward, and come down towards us, as if 



144 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

they were determined to sink us; but when they had ap- 
proached within eight or ten rods, they would dip and go 
under, or make a circuit round us. Most of them were 
much longer than our vessel, and it would have taken but 
a slight blow from one to have smashed her into a thou- 
isand pieces. 

On the 13th of July we saw the high land near the en- 
trance of Cook's Inlet; and on the 17th arrived at the harbor 
of St. Paul, in the island of Kodiak, after a passage of 
eighteen days, and which might have been performed by an 
ordinary sailing craft, with the same winds, in ten days. 
Here my letters of introduction made me acquainted with 
Mr. Bander, the Company's Superintendent. He received 
us with great cordiality, and readily procured me a man 
to serve as mate. He likewise furnished all the supplies we 
were in need of, and saw that they were put on board; so 
that Dr. Langsdorff and myself had little else to do than 
to look about and see the lions. The village consisted of 
about forty houses, of various descriptions, including a 
church, school-house, storehouse, and barracks. The school- 
house was quite a respectable establishment, well filled with 
pupils, under the especial care, as teacher, of the "Pope," * 
or ecclesiastic. He instructed them in reading, writing, 
arithmetic, and keeping accounts. Many among them were 
excellent scholars in these branches. The Doctor and my- 
self made an excursion to an adjacent island, where the 
Pope had a considerable tract of land under cultivation, 
raising potatoes, cabbages, turnips, cucumbers, and other 

* In the Russian Church all the priests are called Popes, i.e., Fathers, 
Papa = Father. So in the Latin Church all priests were Popes until 
the supremacy of the Pope of Rome was established. Cf. the de- 
velopment of the English "Parson."— £rf. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 145 

vegetables. He also kept several milch cows, and appeared 
to live in quite a; farmer-like style. We concluded to pass 
the night with him, and were hospitably entertained by 
his wife. 

Having taken on board some freight of skins and sea- 
elephant's teeth for Ochotsk, and a cask of brandy for the 
island of Oonalashka, on the 23rd of July we took leave 
of our friends, Mr. Bander and the Pope, and started again 
on our route. The wind was so strong from the southeast 
that I found it impossible to weather the southern point of 
the island, and thus to get to the westward of it. I con- 
cluded to bear up, and pass through the Schelikoff's Strait. 
This is a channel formed by an archipelago of islands (of 
which Kodiak is the principal), and the peninsula of 
Alashka. But by reason of light and contrary winds, we 
did not get fairly into the strait until the 26th, and shortly 
after encountered a strong wind from the west, with heavy 
squalls, which soon increased to such a severe gale, that we 
were compelled to seek shelter on the Alashka shore. Here 
I found my Indian sailors, who had proved good men from 
the beginning, to be of the greatest service. I mentioned 
above that they were natives of Alashka, and they were per- 
fectly acquainted with the shore. They pointed out to me 
a good harbor, for which I steered ; and as we rounded the 
point at its entrance, which was called Kudak, a baidarka 
containing one man came alongside. He turned out to be 
the father of one of my sailors, and they had not seen each 
other before for two years. They did not appear, however, 
to be over-rejoiced at this accidental meeting. They em- 
braced each other after the Russian custom, had a little chat 
together, and then went about their business, without show- 
ing any disposition for further communication. 



146 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

In the course of the night the gale increased so much 
that I deemed it prudent to let go our best bow-anchor; 
but with the return of light the wind abated, and the 
weather became quite pleasant. Doctor Langsdorff and 
myself took our baidarka, and went to the village, which 
was situated on the opposite side of the harbor from where 
we lay. It consisted of eight or ten habitations, which 
looked more like mounds of earth than houses. They con- 
tained but one room, of an oval form, and about fifteen 
feet across. The earth was dug out about three feet in 
depth, and raised from the surface about three feet more, 
and to enter we had to crawl on our hands and knees. The 
light was admitted through windows of transparent skins, 
as a substitute for glass. Their quarters were certainly 
comfortable for winter. The floors were covered with 
spruce boughs, and mats were laid over them, which made 
the apartment dry and warm. An aperture was left in the 
top for ventilation. The outside was covered with a lux- 
urious growth of grass. The occupants were principally 
women, with a few old men; the young men had all gone 
out hunting the sea-otter, in the Russian service. Those 
at home seemed to be quite happy and contented, and were 
all employed in making water-proof garments from the 
entrails of sea-lions, for their husbands and sweethearts. 
We bought of them a number of articles of their manu- 
facture, — curious and very neat work, — such as pocket- 
books, baskets, &c., — and paid them in tobacco and beads. 

On the 28th of July, the wind being moderate and favor- 
able, we put to sea again, and pursued our course to the 
westward along the coast of Alashka. We made but slow 
progress on our voyage, and by the 9th of August we had 
only reached the end of the peninsula. The same day we 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 147 

passed through between the island of Oonemak and the 
easternmost of the Fox Islands. On the 12th we arrived 
at the island of Oonalashka. I had no cause to stop here 
beyond the desire of replenishing our water-casks and 
stores. Owing to our tardy progress, — having as yet, per- 
formed only one third of the distance from Kodiak to 
Ochotsk, — our provisions were more than half consumed. 
I therefore felt myself constrained to put in for a further 
supply. 

The Company's Superintendent, Lariwanoff, a gentleman 
highly esteemed by them, had died a short time previous 
to our arrival, leaving a widow and an only child, a daugh- 
ter about eighteen years of age. I was received by his suc- 
cessor with much kindness, and with an apparent disposition 
to facilitate my voyage. The harbor, Illuluk, was spacious 
and well sheltered on all sides. There was a good anchor- 
age in four or five fathoms of water, on a sand and clay 
bottom, at a convenient distance from the shore. While 
making some necessary repairs on my little vessel, and get- 
ting supplies aboard, Madam Lariwanoff learned that I 
was bound to Ochotsk. She immediately came, and on her 
knees entreated me to have compassion on her lonely and 
bereaved condition, and let her and her daughter take pas- 
sage with me. Irkutsk in Siberia was her native place, 
and thither she was desirous of returning after a residence 
on this island ten years. Her solicitations were so earnest 
that I had not the heart to refuse her, and notwithstanding 
our contracted accommodations, entirely unfit for a woman's 
occupation, I resolved to take her under my protection. I 
went aboard, and set about making the best possible arrange- 
ments for her comfort, gave up my bunk, enlarged it suffi- 
ciently for the mother and child together, and partitioned 



148 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

off the little cabin with a canvas screen. I immediately 
commenced taking on board their goods and chattels, with 
which, however, they were not overburdened; but she had 
been preparing to leave the island for some time, and had 
accumulated a goodly stock of provisions of various kinds, 
— several barrels of eggs, put up in oil, smoked geese in 
abundance, dried and pickled fish of an excellent quality, 
and other things equally good. Thus our fare promised to 
be the best the island afforded. In the mean time the Super- 
intendent began to make objections, and throw difficulties 
in the way of the old lady's going with me. She might 
make reports which would not redound to his credit. But 
I had it in my power to silence all his objections, having on 
board the cask of brandy, which it was at my option to leave 
with him, or take to Ochotsk. On his application for it, 
I demurred until he withdrew all his opposition to the 
widow's leaving, and was willing to grant anything on the 
island we wished. He was a dear lover of "the ardent." 

Everything now went on smoothly, and in a few days 
we were ready for sea; but adverse winds detained us, and 
I seized the opportunity to take a stroll over the island with 
the Doctor and Superintendent. It was totally bare of 
trees and shrubs, and with little or no game but foxes. The 
whole value and importance of the Aleutian group consist 
in the sea animals taken on their shores and bays, such as 
fur-seals, walruses, sea-lions, and sea-otter; though of the 
latter there were few. This is likewise the principal depot 
of the fisheries of the smaller islands, and from here the 
furs are periodically shipped to Ochotsk. In the course 
of our ramble we ascended some high table-land with the 
hope of obtaining a view of the new island, which we were 
informed had recently made its appearance in the Sea of 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 149 

Kamtchatka, to the northwest of Oonalashka; but we were 
disappointed by a thick mist's setting in, which obscured all 
distant objects. After wandering about in the numerous 
fox-paths, and with great caution, to avoid the many traps 
set for those animals, we returned to the village, somewhat 
hungry and leg-weary, and with but little satisfaction to 
boast of, beyond traversing a region rendered classic by the 
verse of Campbell, in the "Pleasures of Hope" : — 

"Now far he sweeps, where scarce a summer smiles, 
On Behring's rocks, or Greenland's naked isles; 
Cold on his midnight watch the breezes blow, 
From wastes that slumber in eternal snow; 
And waft, across the waves' tumultuous roar, 
The wolf's long howl from Oonalashka's shore." 

But, in fact, I was the only Wolf ever known upon the 
island. Nevertheless, I came near verifying the poet's lan- 
guage, as I barely escaped being caught in one of those fox- 
traps ; in which event I should have probably howled lustily, 
for they were terrible instruments. 

August 1 6th, the wind and weather being favorable, 
Madame Lariwanoff, her daughter, and man-servant, came 
on board, and we put to sea; and I have every reason to 
believe with the fervent prayers of every individual upon 
the island for God's blessing upon their patroness, and good 
speed to our little craft. The next day we saw the new 
island, to which I was desirous to get near enough to send 
a baidarka, particularly as the Doctor was anxious to get 
some specimens of natural history; but a thick fog coming 
up, and having a leading wind, we concluded to continue 
our voyage without loss of time. On the i8th we lost sight 
of the islands, and, with a light wind and rain, slowly pur- 
sued our course to the westward, across the Sea of Kam- 



I50 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

tchatka, to the north of the Aleutian group; but such was 
our tardy progress, that by the 28th we had only reached 
the neighborhood of Atter, the most western island. Then 
for ten days in succession we had calms, fogs, and light 
adverse winds. Our patience was sorely tried, but the 
monotony of our life was alleviated by the numerous and 
great variety of sea-birds, which were constantly flying 
round us, and furnished endless sport with the musket. 
And here I feel bound to record the marvellous skill, or 
good luck, of the Doctor, as he killed a whole flock of four 
wild geese at one shot; and, what was still better, we got 
out our baidarka, and took them all aboard. 

Still creeping along with the same dull winds and dis- 
agreeable weather, on the 3d of September we found our- 
selves in latitude 52° north, and longitude 170° east, which 
placed us a considerable distance southwest of Atter. We 
began to entertain fears lest we should not reach the port 
of our destination in season; but on the 6th, for the first 
time since leaving Oonalashka, we took a strong northeast 
gale, which carried us into the vicinity of the Kurile Islands. 
Our hopes began to revive, and the prospect of reaching 
Ochotsk to brighten; but again were we doomed to dis- 
appointment. A severe blow from the southeast obliged 
us to heave to, with a heavy sea running; and we drifted 
back over the course we had just sailed, at the rate of two 
miles an hour. A considerable quantity of the provisions 
for the sailors consisted of whale's blubber, which was 
hanging on our quarter, and was of course well soaked with 
oil. This we found to be a great advantage, for it made 
a "slick" to the windward for nearly a mile, and prevented 
the sea from breaking over us. 

Strong westerly winds continued to bafiie us until the 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 151 

14th, when, having no hope of reaching Ochotsk before the 
autumn was so far spent that we should be obHged to make 
a winter's journey across Siberia, we concluded to alter our 
course, and sail for the harbor of St. Peter and St. Paul, 
or Petropowlowsk, in Kamtchatka. We made port on the 
22d, and anchored abreast the village. We were kindly and 
hospitably received by the Company's Superintendent, as 
well as by the officers of the military department, and 
especially by Major Antony Ivanah and lady, who showed 
me many civilities. Madam Lariwanoff and daughter were 
taken in charge by the Superintendent, and provided with 
comfortable quarters. The Doctor and myself at once took 
temporary lodgings on the shore, until we could make per- 
manent arrangements for the winter. Having discharged 
all the cargo, and dismantled our little craft, we hauled her 
up on the beach at the first spring tide. Provisions and ac- 
commodations were provided at the settlement for the crew 
as well as ourselves ; and in fact the people seemed desirous 
to do everything in their power to render our stay amongst 
them as comfortable and agreeable as the nature of the place 
would admit. 



VI. 

Settled for another Winter. — Arrival of old Friends. — Dogs and 
Sledging. — A Russian Christening. 

Detained for another winter, we endeavored at once to 
make the acquaintance of the inhabitants of the village, and 
to become familiar with the country in its vicinity. We 
were introduced to all the people of note, and kindly enter- 
tained by them. We made pedestrian excursions for sev- 



152 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

eral miles in every direction, and visited all the common 
places of resort. The scenery was picturesque, and the 
view from the elevations was beautiful and grand. The 
Awatska Bay, or outer harbor, as it is called, is completely 
land-locked, and at the same time so extensive, that a thou- 
sand ships might ride at anchor in it with safety. The dis- 
tant mountains, and particularly the high peak Awatska, 
add greatly to the landscape. The latter presents the im- 
posing spectacle of a volcano in full blast, always overhung 
with a cloud of smoke, and constantly belching fire and 
lava. 

We had only one source of annoyance at the village dur- 
ing the early part of our stay, and we soon became well 
used to that. I refer to the barking of the numerous dogs, 
though it can scarcely be called barking, for they howl like 
a wolf. At sunset regularly they would begin their serenade 
at one end of the settlement, — which, by the way, extended 
all round the harbor, — and in the course of half an hour 
all the voices would join in the chorus, and keep it up all 
night long. With this single temporary drawback, we 
passed our time very pleasantly until the first of November. 
By then we had visited on foot all the places in the more 
immediate neighborhood, and we concluded to make a short 
boat excursion to a small river named Paratunka, to see 
some warm springs situated several miles from its mouth. 
This spring issues from the ground in a boiling state, and 
spreads out over a basin excavated for its reception. It 
forms an excellent bathing-place, being of suitable depth, 
with a sandy bottom, and the bather can choose any degree 
of warmth he pleases. The water is impregnated with 
sulphur and other minerals. We found here some Russian 
invalids who had come to enjoy the use of the spring. All 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 153 

the rivers in the neighborhood abounded in salmon, though 
it was so late in the season; and we protracted our stay for 
a day or two, hunting and fishing, and boiling our game in 
the hot water of the spring. 

On our return to the village we were surprised to find 
one of our old Norfolk Sound friends, Lieutenant Davidoff, 
who had arrived at the harbor in command of the little new 
vessel built at Sitcha, and called the Awos. He had left 
the Sound in August, accompanied by the Juno, under the 
command of Lieutenant Schwostoff, and having Baron von 
Resanoff on board to be carried to Ochotsk. He had parted 
with them off the Kurile Islands. About the middle of 
November Lieutenant Schwostoff made his appearance with 
the Juno. After landing his Excellency about Ochotsk, he 
received orders to proceed to one of the southernmost of 
the Kurile Islands, and break up a Japanese settlement re- 
ported to have been established there. He found at the 
place four Japanese, with a large stock of goods for trade 
with the islanders, consisting of rice, tobacco, fish-nets, 
lacquered ware, salt, cotton, silk, and many other articles; 
all of which he seized without opposition, and brought 
Japanese, goods, and all to Kamtchatka. Thus we met 
our old friends in a very unexpected manner. As we were 
doomed to pass another winter in this region, their com- 
pany was very pleasant, and to have the Juno in sight again 
was especially agreeable to me. 

I now took lodgings in a shanty owned and occupied by 
a very clever old man, named Andra, and his wife and little 
boy. I called him in a familiar way Starruk, that is old 
man, and his wife Starruke, old woman. He was quite 
thrifty for the place, and was one of the few in the village 
who owned and kept a cow. This was a fortunate circum- 



154 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

stance, for good milk was a rarity in that section. His 
shanty was warm and comfortable, and was divided into 
three apartments. In one corner of the largest they made 
a bunk for me, and curtained it round. My man Parker 
slept in the same room on a movable bed. In the next 
room, which was the cooking-room, there was a large brick 
oven, or furnace, and on the top of this slept Starruk, his 
wife, and little boy. The third apartment was devoted to 
the cow and her fodder. At this place I took my meals at 
night and morning, but dined by general invitation at the 
Company's table, at the house of the Superintendent. Com- 
fortably settled in my new quarters, I prepared for a long 
winter's siege. 

It was necessary to be provided with a set of good dogs 
and a sledge. With the assistance of Starruk I was soon 
possessed of five of the best animals of the kind, and had 
them tied up near the house, that they might get accustomed 
to me, and be ready for use. In the spring of the year the 
dogs are turned loose, and left to provide for themselves, 
in the best way they can. Hence they are great thieves 
until the herring season comes, when they have an abundant 
supply of food, which they go into the water and catch for 
themselves, until they become very fat, and unfit for use.* 
At that season, too, great quantities of the herring are 
caught by the owners of the dogs, and split and dried in 
the sun, to feed them in the winter, when they give them 
nothing else. 

I also purchased a first-rate sledge, at once light and 
handsome, fur garments, Kamtchatka boots, bear-skin, and 
everything needed to make my equipage complete; and, 

*Dr. Langsdorff in his "Reise" devotes much space to the treatment 
of the Arctic dogs. — Ed. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 155 

now fully prepared, I waited impatiently for the snow. 
There had been already several squalls, but about the last 
of November the ground was well covered and the winter 
set in. My dogs were in good travelling condition, and 
I now made my first essay, with three of them to begin 
with. The style in which they tumbled me about in the 
snow was "a caution," as Paddy says, and furnished great 
amusement to the villagers. But I persevered, with a de- 
termination to make myself master of the business, and 
at the end of a week was quite an adroit performer. The 
sledges were so constructed, that it required nearly as much 
skill and practice to keep in equilibrium as in skating; but 
when well understood, they afforded a most splendid recrea- 
tion and agreeable exercise. Being soon able to harness 
and manage my five dogs with dexterity, we used frequently 
to make a party, consisting of Langsdorff, Schwostoff, 
Davidoff, and Miasnikoff, and go out on excursions to the 
neighboring villages, from ten to twenty miles distant. 
When the weather was unfavorable, we had balls and 
parties ; and in this way the weeks and months of the long 
winter passed off quite cheerfully. 

About the ist of January, 1807, the Governor-General, 
Koscheleff, who resides at Nischney, which is the capital 
of Kamtchatka, made his annual visit of inspection to all 
the military posts on the peninsula. His entrance into 
Petropowlowsk with a long handsome sledge, a Kamtcha- 
dale on each side, as conductors, and a string of twenty 
dogs, was quite a new and pleasing sight to me. During 
his stay of five days, we had royal f eastings and visitings; 
and when he left, half the village accompanied him to the 
distance of ten or fifteen miles, myself among the number. 
We made a string nearly a mile long. 



156 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

The sledging in Kamtchatka is not without some adverse 
casualties to the best of managers. One occurred to me 
which I will narrate. I was coming from Melka, an in- 
terior village, with a load of frozen salmon, in company 
with my landlord, Starruk, and, my dogs being better than 
his, I got several miles ahead of him. The snow was deep, 
but the top was crusted, and the underbrush all covered. 
The surface was perfectly smooth, but interrupted by nu- 
merous large trees; and to avoid them our track was ser- 
pentine. At last we came to an inclined plane of a mile or 
so in length, and, my sledge being heavily laden, it became 
necessary for me to be constantly on my guard, and keep 
a sharp lookout. Accordingly I took the usual preliminary- 
precaution in such cases, of sitting sideways, with the left 
hand hold of the fore part, left foot on the runner, and my 
right leg extended; my foot, slipping over the snow, oper- 
ated as a sort of an outrigger. The dogs at the same time, 
fearful lest the sledge should run on to them, went down 
the declivity like lightning. The trees seemed to grow 
thicker and thicker, and to avoid them it soon became hard 
up and hard down with me. At last, coming to a sharp curve 
to the right, the sledge, shearing to the other side, struck 
with such force as to scatter my whole establishment, and 
I received such a blow on the head that it stunned me and 
laid me out on the snow unconscious. When I came to a 
little, and looked up, I saw my sledge was partly a wreck, 
four of my dogs had broken from their harness and gone 
on, while one, left fast in his gear, was sitting on his 
haunches, and watching me with wonder, as much as to 
say, ''How came you here?" It was not long before Starruk 
came up. He asked me what was the matter. I replied that 
some one in passing had run foul of me. "No," said he, "I 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 157 

guess you run foul of that tree"; which, on collecting my 
scattered thoughts I found to be the fact. But as there 
were no bones broken, I brightened up, and, with the old 
man's assistance, caught my dogs again, repaired damages 
and pursued my journey, not a little worse for my tumble. 

I will mention another circumstance which occurred to 
me, — not that there was anything extraordinary in it, but 
merely to show the sagacity of dogs, and the convenience 
of travelling with them. I was coming from a village about 
ten miles distant. It was dusk when I started, and night 
soon closed in with Egyptian darkness and an arctic snow- 
storm. I could not see even my dogs. The new snow soon 
covered and obliterated the old track. It was difficult to 
tell whether I was going ahead or standing still, without 
putting my foot through the new-fallen snow down to the 
old crust. In this way I went on for an hour or so, the 
dogs making very slow progress, and very hard work of it. 
Not being able to see anything, I somehow or other became 
persuaded that the dogs had inclined to the left of the 
beaten track, and consequently I kept urging them to the 
right. Thus I went on for some time, until I found myself 
in a forest of large trees, and had much difficulty in keeping 
clear of them. At last I became decidedly bewildered, but 
convinced that I had lost my way. Not knowing whither 
I was going, and fearing that I might wander, the Lord 
knew where, during the long night, I concluded to halt, 
and make my dogs fast to a tree. I then sat awhile on my 
sledge, and listened, to see if I could hear anybody, and 
finally prepared my bear-skin and fur garments for a night's 
bivouac. I had not lain more than an hour before I heard 
the howling of dogs; my own immediately answered them. 
I found they were approaching, and when I judged them 



158 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

to be within hailing distance, I called out. A man called 
out in return, and soon drove up. It was a Kamtchadale 
coming from Petropowlowsk. It appeared that I had urged 
the dogs a considerable distance from the proper track, 
which, with the new-comer's assistance, I regained. He 
told me not to attempt to guide the dogs, but to let them 
pick their own way. I accordingly sat on my sledge for 
an hour or so, scarcely realizing that I was moving, till at 
last I turned my eyes up, and found myself right under the 
light of my own window. 

These little mishaps occurred while I was yet a novice 
in the art of sledging; but I soon became acquainted with 
the habits and dispositions of my dogs, and they became 
accustomed to me, so that I travelled fearlessly, alone or 
in company, and made excursions to all the villages in the 
southern part of the peninsula within a hundred miles of 
Petropowlowsk. While I was amusing myself in the south- 
ern, the Doctor was traversing the northern part of Kam- 
tchatka all by himself, and collecting specimens of natural 
history. 

I was always an admirer of the rigid adherence of the 
Russians to their religious forms and ceremonies. I never 
saw a Russian, high or low, who did not, both before and 
after eating, ask a blessing, and give thanks to God for his 
bounty, apparently with a sincere and thankful heart. Yet 
there were some things very absurd in their ceremonies. 
For instance, I was invited to the christening of a child at 
the house of the Superintendent, and requested to stand as 
godfather with Dr. Langsdorff, as it was necessary, I was 
told, to have two godfathers and two godmothers.* At 

* Even in the great Cathedral of Kazan, in Petrograd, the arrange- 
ments for a christening seem, to a foreigner, somewhat primitive. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 159 

the appointed time we repaired to the house, where we 
found the pope and numerous guests already assembled. 
The pope had brought with him a small box, resembling 
a tea-caddy, containing, as was said, consecrated oil. A 
large tub full of water was placed in the centre of the room, 
and the pope's apparatus near at hand. He then commenced 
the operation with prayers, after which, he took the child 
in his arms and plunged it under the water. Then, with 
a small brush and some oil from the box, he crossed the 
child all over its body and legs, and afterwards marched 
round the tub, and we, the godfathers and godmothers, 
followed, in Indian file, three times around. The child was 
then given to one of the godfathers, crossed again, and 
round the tub we went three times more. And so it con- 
tinued until we all had taken our turns, and made fifteen 
circuits of the tub. Now I thought this, or the greater 
part of it, a nonsensical ceremony, and a piece of rig- 
marole; but it was not my part to find fault or object to it, 
and I willingly conformed to the custom. 

When it was over, the tub was taken away, and a table 
put in its place, madam, the mother of the child, brought 
on the goodies, pies of flesh and pies of fish, cakes of various 
kinds, preserved berries, and many other things; but what 
astounded me most was that a bottle of real ardent spirits 
found its way to the table on this extra occasion, an article 
which had disappeared from among our stores several 
months previous. The pope paid his respects to it with 
peculiar unction, and a glowing countenance, and the rest 
of us were not slow in following suit. This was one of 

There not a tub is used for the immersion but an iron basin supported 
upon a tripod. Captain De Wolf had forgotten many features of the 
beautiful ceremony. — Ed. 



i6o TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the friendly gatherings to which I made it a point never 
to refuse an invitation ; and I found the Russians very fond 
of celebrating birthdays, christenings, and as many holidays 
as they could make an excuse for. 



VII. 

Voyage to Ochotsk. — Journey from Ochotsk to Yakutsk. 

About the last of March the snow began to disappear 
rapidly, and by the middle of April the ground was so bare 
that our sledging parties were abandoned. The ice had left 
the bay, and all hands were at work, under the directions 
of Lieut. Schwostoff and Davidofif, sawing and breaking 
up the ice in the inner harbor, in order to extricate the 
Juno and Awos, which had been preparing to sail for some 
time. By the 25th the channel was cleared, and the two 
vessels put to sea, with the four Japanese who had passed 
the winter with us. Their destination was the northern 
Japanese Islands, where they intended to land their passen- 
gers, and make some further attempts to establish an inter- 
course with the people. 

By this movement I was prompted to get my little craft 
afloat and prepare for the remainder of my voyage. I was 
admonished, by those acquainted with the breaking up of 
the ice in the rivers at the head of the Ochotsk Sea, not 
to be in a hurry; but my anxiety to be off rendered me deaf 
to all remonstrances; and on the 226. of May I was ready. 
At this point I was beset by a number of persons, both male 
and female, for a passage to Ochotsk. I concluded to take 
five in addition to Madam Lariwanoff and daughter, viz. 
one elderly widow woman, one old woman and her daugh- 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO i6i 

ter, one very respectable young- man in the Company's serv- 
ice, and one other gentleman. Our party now numbered 
eighteen. We were tolerably well equipped, and had an 
abundant supply of such provisions as the place afforded. 
When our arrangements were all completed, Doctor Langs- 
dorff and myself devoted a day to taking leave of the many 
friends who had entertained us during the winter; and I 
particularly of my old landlord and landlady, Starruk and 
Starruke. To the former I paid what he thought a very 
liberal compensation for the apartment I had occupied at 
his house. I also made him a present of my sledge, its 
equipage, and my dogs, with the exception of one, which 
I took with me. To Starruke I gave my bedding, curtains, 
and furniture. I then bade good by to these warm-hearted 
people, and left them with their warmest prayers for a 
prosperous voyage. Our passengers now came on board, 
and, after making the best accommodations for them our 
contracted quarters would admit, on the 26th, with fair 
weather, we bade adieu to Petropowlowsk, and weighed 
anchor. 

Favorable winds continued just long enough to give us 
a good offing, when they became light and adverse, with 
calms, and so continued for several days. On the 30th, 
having just taken a brisk breeze, which was driving us 
along, for a wonder, at nearly five knots, we ran into a large 
whale which was lying near the surface. We somehow slid 
up his back so as to raise our little vessel two or three feet 
and throw her over on her side four or five streaks. It was 
like striking a rock, and brought us to a complete stand- 
still. The monster soon showed himself, gave a spout, 
"kicked" his flukes and went down. He did not appear 
to be hurt, nor were we hurt, but most confoundedly fright- 



i62 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

ened. I sounded the pnmp immediately, and found that 
all was safe as to leakage, and we continued on our course 
quite satisfied with the result. 

June 3d, we passed through between the second and third 
Kurile Islands from the southern part of Kamtchatka, and 
entered the Sea of Ochotsk. Here again we were annoyed 
by the calms, which continued with but little variance until 
the 14th, when we had reached latitude 58°. We now began 
to meet ice, at first so scattered that we thought it possible 
to push through it; but after working in amongst it for 
a few hours, it became so compact as to be impassable, and 
extended east, west, and north as far as the eye could reach, 
even from the masthead a solid mass. Finding it impossible 
to proceed any farther, and as the ice was closing rapidly 
around us, I deemed it advisable to avail myself of that 
better part of valor, discretion, and pole out as we had 
poled in ; for I had soon discovered that our little craft was 
too slight to deal freely with heavy ice. Having gained the 
open water, I steered to the eastward all day without find- 
ing any passage-way. The wind proving unfavorable for 
sailing in that direction, we turned and went westward. 
Thus we continued for ten days, making various attempts 
to get clear of the ice, and at last succeeded. On the 26th, 
at meridian, we found our latitude 59° 20', and the land 
was in sight. On the 27th, we anchored off the mouth of 
the river Ochota. At 2 P. M., the tide turned, and we 
crossed the bar, entered the harbor of Ochotsk, and made 
fast to the Company's wharf. Thus terminated a long and 
tedious passage of thirty-three days. 

We were told here that the ice had only left the rivers 
and bays four or five days. We were likewise informed, to 
our great grief, that his Excellency Baron von Resanoff 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 163 

had died at Krasnojarsk in Siberia, on his route to St. 
Petersburg. He had fallen from his horse on the road from 
Ochotsk to Yakutsk, which was supposed to be the cause 
of his death. The passport and letters I had previously 
received from his Excellency at once made me acquainted 
with the Company's Superintendent, Mr. Petroff; likewise 
with the commandant of the port. Captain Bucharin. By 
both these gentlemen I was treated with the utmost kind- 
ness and civility ; and, knowing my desire to be on my way 
to St. Petersburg, they were both anxious to afford me 
every facility in their power. A taboo was immediately put 
upon a sufficient number of the first horses that arrived 
from Yakutsk. With the greatest possible despatch, it was 
necessary to wait a few days, and in the mean time I was 
taken round the place to see the lions. They did not amount 
to much. The town was situated on a sand spit, washed 
by the sea on one side and the river Ochota on the other. 
The river Kuchtin unites with the Ochota near the harbor's 
mouth, which, at the best, is an indifferent one, and not 
accessible to vessels drawing more than eight feet of water. 
The town is joined to the mainland by a narrow neck of 
marshy ground, which is often inundated. In fact, it ap- 
peared to me that any extra rise of the river or sea would 
swamp the whole place. Some ship-building was going on 
here, and many convicts were employed in the government 
service. 

For my convenience, the privilege was accorded to me by 
the Company of selecting a Russian subject to accompany 
me on my road, as a kind of an assistant. A young man 
by the name of Kutsnetsoff, or Smith, was pointed out as 
one desirous of going with me, but the Superintendent did 
not feel authorized to release him from the service, unless 



rtw >in> '-— -»~>«- Tt 11— II"'-'— '~'— -~-— "- •*-* — ■•■' — 



i64 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

I should think proper to select him, and I accordingly did 
so. He had been ten years at the settlements on the Aleutian 
Islands, and was anxious to return to Irkutsk, his native 
place. He had a brother in Moscow, a merchant in high 
standing, who was at the head of the Company's establish- 
ment there. 

On the morning of July 3d, my horses, eleven in number, 
were brought out. They did not look very promising, as 
they had been overworked on the route hither. This was 
rather discouraging, for it was important that they should 
be in a good condition for a journey of 500 miles, through 
a country with no signs of a settlement except a few log 
shanties at great distances asunder, and no road but a ser- 
pentine footpath; moreover, we had a fair amount of lug- 
gage, and for comfort and convenience we were obliged to 
carry a tent, cooking-utensils, and bear-skins, &c. for bed- 
ding. Bad as they were, these horses were better than none, 
and I must make the best of them. 

Having completed my preparations, I took leave of my 
highly esteemed friend, Dr. Langsdorff, who intended to 
remain a week or so for the promotion of his favorite ob- 
ject ; also of Madam Lariwanoff and her daughter, my other 
passengers, and sailors, — particularly of the three Alashka 
Indians, who had proved themselves excellent men, and 
rendered me good service.* They fell upon their knees and 

* Dr. Langsdorff's account of this incident shows Captain De Wolf's 
character in a very beautiful light: "I cannot pass over in silence an 
affecting scene which occurred just before his departure. The three 
Aleutians whom I have frequently spoken of as serving as sailors on 
our ship, came to Captain De Wolf, and, with tears running down 
their cheeks, threw themselves at his feet and begged him to take 
them with him to his native land. 'We will serve you without pay. 
We will ask only for a little bread and fish. We will follow your 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 165 

entreated me to take them with me. As this was imprac- 
ticable, I could only make them a gratuity in rubles, and 
recommend them to the kindness of Mr. Petroff, in whose 
employ and charge they were. Having finished our leave- 
takings, we mounted our horses. There were five of us, — 
myself and two aids, Parker and Kutsnetsoff, and two 
Yakutas, the owners of the horses, and acting as guides. 
Three of the other six horses carried our luggage, and the 
remaining three were kept in reserve for a change on the 
road. Dr. Langsdorff, the Superintendent, Captain Bucha- 
rin, and other friends, accompanied us to the outskirts of 
the town to take another and a final farewell, and we then 
put spurs to our horses, and struck into the woods. We 
went on at quite a spirited pace until five o'clock, when we 
arrived at a small clearing called Medwescha Golowa, or 
Bear's Head, where there were a few huts. Here we dis- 
mounted to lunch, and rest our horses for half an hour; 
and then resumed our journey. At seven in the evening we 
pitched our tent, and camped for the night, in a good place 
for our horses to graze. As we carried no provender, this 
was a matter of great importance throughout our whole 
journey. We turned our beasts loose, and the Yakutschians 
watched them by turns through the night. The distance 
we travelled this day since eleven o'clock was 45 versts.* 

Ochotsk is situated in latitude 59° 30', and Yakutsk in 
about 63°. The direction of our course was west-northwest 
and the distance in a bee-line 500 miles ; but by reason of the 

horses, even though we must go on foot a great part of the way. We 
would rather go with you than return to our own country.' Mr. De 
Wolf was greatly troubled because he could not grant their request." 
Langsdorff, Reise, vol. 2, page 292. — Ed. 

* A verst is 212}^ rods, or, roughly, five eighths of a mile. — [Author's 
note.] 



i66 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

tortuous nature of the route we were obliged to pursue, 
the distance was much increased. In such an extent of wild 
country there were doubtless many objects that would have 
attracted the attention of the man of science; but being 
myself neither naturalist, botanist, nor geologist, I had no 
call to search to the right or to the left for specimens. My 
business was to push on as fast as my horses could carry 
me, having an especial regard for my bills of exchange. 
I paid but little attention to the names of the numerous 
small rivers and mountains which we crossed, merely no- 
ticing some of the principal. To me the country wore even 
a greater degree of sameness than other unsettled regions. 

July 4th. We collected our horses and struck our tent 
at 7 A. M., mounted, and continued our journey. Several 
large caravans of horses passed us in the forenoon, laden 
with flour and provisions for Ochotsk, In the afternoon, 
we crossed a ridge of tolerably high mountains, and then 
came upon swampy ground. At five o'clock we reached 
a small river; but it was so deep we were obliged to ferry 
our luggage over in a boat, and swim our horses. We 
went on until eight in the evening, when we encamped. The 
distance travelled this day was 47 versts. 

July 5th. We had a thick fog and rain through the night. 
It cleared up in the morning, and we mounted at seven, and 
continued our journey through valleys and over mountains, 
with extremely bad travelling, the whole day. The weather 
growing hot, we were sorely annoyed by the mosquitos, and 
were obliged to wear leather gloves and a kind of hood in 
the shape of a sun-bonnet, with a gauze veil to protect the 
face. Our white horses became perfectly pink with the 
blood drawn from them by these insects. We pitched our 
tents at six in the evening. The distance travelled this day 
was 55 versts. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 167 

July 6th. Started at seven, and had pleasant, but rather 
warm weather. In the course of the day we forded several 
small rivers without unpacking our horses, and passed four 
caravans with stores for Ochotsk. At five in the afternoon 
we came to a small group of shanties where was kept a 
magazine of provisions and a stud of horses for govern- 
ment emergencies. This place was 190 versts from Ochotsk. 
Taking tea here, we proceeded until seven o'clock, and then 
encamped in a tolerably good grazing-place. The distance 
travelled this day was 55 versts. 

July 7th. Started this morning at six. The travelling 
was extremely bad, and the ground swampy; the horses 
sank in the mire up to their saddle-girths. By noon we 
came to better going. Passed to-day, beside caravans, sev- 
eral droves of cattle on the way to Ochotsk. Distance, 60 
versts. 

July 8th. Fine weather, but the travelling very poor 
again. At ten in the morning arrived at the banks of the 
river Allacjun, one of the largest tributaries of the Aldan. 
We ferried our baggage across, and swam our horses. At 
three in the afternoon we halted and turned our beasts out 
to graze. Owing to the uneven and miry road they had 
passed over, they were much fatigued and galled. Distance 
this day, 40 versts. 

July 9th. Started at six in the morning. Passed several 
caravans, and at five in the afternoon met the government 
post for Ochotsk. At nine, pitched our tent on the bank of 
a small tributary of the Allacjun. Distance this day, 65 
versts. 

July loth. Rained all the fore part of the day. Our route 
was through a gorge between high ridges of mountains. 
Distance travelled, 50 versts. 



MMIuuaJtaOMi 



i68 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

July nth. The weather was pleasant and warm, the 
country rugged and mountainous. At four in the afternoon 
we came to the foot of a high and steep mountain, and 
halted to make preparations for the ascent. Our horses had 
already become so weak and travel-worn, that it was doubt- 
ful whether they would succeed in crossing it. My Yakut- 
schian guides lifted their tails to ascertain their strength. 
On those that had limber tails the weight of the baggage 
was reduced, and increased on those that had stiff tails. I 
noticed them also pulling hair from the manes, and tying 
it to the branches of trees; whether this was done to invoke 
the good, or propitiate the evil spirits, I could not make out. 
After they had adjusted things to suit them, we took off 
our coats, and started, leading our beasts. The ground 
was so very springy that it was with great difficulty that 
we could pick our way. Two of the baggage horses mired 
before we reached the top, and we were obliged to unload 
in order to extricate them. We finally gained the summit, 
— which after all was not so very high, — and, having 
rested a little, descended. Continuing our course through 
a narrow valley, at 6 P. M. we crossed the river Allakum, 
and stopped at a small cluster of shanties on its left bank. 
There was a ferry for bipeds, but such of the poor horses 
as were able were obliged to swim. The stream was so 
rapid, that mine had a hard tug to get across. Distance 
this day, 50 versts. 

It was necessary to make a halt soon for a day or two 
to recruit, and this was a favorable place. The government 
had a station and postilion here. Four of my horses were 
completely broken down, and I left them, and hired six 
fresh ones. We also replenished our stock of provisions. 

July 14th. Mounted at 5 A. M., and passed over a very 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 169 

high mountain, and descended into a narrow, serpentine 
valley, in which we travelled the better part of the day. We 
passed several caravans and droves of beef cattle. Distance, 
55 versts. 

July 15th. Our route this day over boggy ground again, 
and the travelling was therefore as poor as ever. Our 
horses' backs were very sore, and they were all nearly ex- 
hausted. We pitched our tent early in the afternoon at a 
good grazing-place, to give them a little rest. Distance, 
40 versts. 

July 1 6th. The weather this day was warm and pleasant, 
and road not so mountainous as it had been. At 5 P. M., 
one of our horses gave out, and we left him. Continuing 
on until seven, we pitched our tent on the banks of the White 
River. Distance, 50 versts. 

July 17th. At 6 A. M, we mustered together our horses, 
and found that four were missing. We spent half the day 
in a fruitless search for them, and then concluded that they 
were either killed or frightened away by the bears, which 
are very plentiful in this region. We pursued our journey, 
much of the way through mud and water up to the saddle- 
girths. Distance, 30 versts. 

July 1 8th. Struck our tent at 7 A. M,, and at nine crossed 
the White River. All the early part of the day, until within 
twenty versts of the Aldan, we found the road very good. 
Here we saw before us an extensive morass, to avoid which 
it would be necessary to go the distance of thirty versts. 
This morass was about a quarter of a mile in breadth, and 
partially covered with water, interspersed with little grass 
knolls, which were soft and unsteady. Disagreeable as the 
prospect was, we concluded to go straight across. We ac- 
cordingly fastened on the baggage tighter, stripped off all 



I70 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

our clothes but shirt and pants, and secured them to the 
saddles, and started, leading our horses, each one picking 
out the way for himself. In about half an hour we suc- 
ceeded in flouncing through without accident; but it was 
a tiresome job, and we got well plastered with mud. Put- 
ting ourselves and luggage in order, we proceeded until lo 
P. M., when we reached the government station on the 
right bank of the Aldan, having left two of our horses on 
the road exhausted. 

We had now reached the principal station on the route, 
which was about two thirds the distance to Yakutsk; and 
I determined to halt for a day or two to recruit, after pass- 
ing fifteen in the saddle. At first I was quite pleased with 
the idea of this land excursion, but I found in a very little 
while that it was no joke. I was sore all over, from head 
to foot. The clumsy saddles we rode were anything but 
convenient. The pommels were of wood and raised about 
six inches, and in the hollow between sat the rider. There 
was just space enough for an ordinary-sized man; and 
being myself light and spare of person, there was plenty 
of room for me to shake in my seat. I soon hit upon 
an expedient, however, to alleviate my suffering. I bol- 
stered up with pillows, so that by the fourth day my pains 
and aches subsided, and afterward I was tolerably com- 
fortable. Still the incessant torments of the mosquitos 
and miry roads were hard to bear. I soon grew sick of 
this horse-marine navigation, and came to the conclusion 
that the spray of the sea was far preferable to a mud bath. 
We made up as well as we could for the annoyance of bad 
roads, bogs, and small rivers, by taking reasonable care of 
the inner man. I mentioned before, that we took our cook- 
ing apparatus and provisions with us. We had bread and 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 171 

sugar, and the tea-kettle was in constant requisition morn- 
ing and evening. Sometimes at the shanties on the route 
we obtained a httle milk. At noon we generally had a sub- 
stantial lunch of Bologna sausage or corned meat, and a 
glass of schnapps. 

Having rested and refreshed ourselves sufficiently, I made 
an arrangement with the postilion of the station to take 
us through the remainder of the distance, as from here to 
the banks of the Lena there were relays of horses at points 
twenty-five or thirty versts asunder. 

July 2 1 St. Being all ready for a move, our horses were 
gathered together at the river's side. There was only one 
small boat belonging to the place, in which we made out to 
ferry ourselves and baggage over ; but the poor horses were 
obliged to swim. Such was their dislike to the water, that 
we were detained half a day trying to force them in. At 
last we succeeded, by taking two of them by the halter, one 
on each side of the boat, and letting the others, five in num- 
ber, follow on their own hook. The current was so rapid 
that they swam the distance of two versts, when the width 
of the stream at this point was only one, before they reached 
the opposite shore. They crawled up on the bank quite 
exhausted, and we were obliged to remain awhile for them 
to recover. At 2 P. M. we mounted and pursued our jour- 
ney. At eight in the evening we pitched our tent at the 
first post-station after leaving the Aldan. The distance 
travelled was 35 versts. 

July 22d. Changed horses and started at 6 A. M. The 
travelling was much improved, and at 5 P. M. we came to 
the second stand, on the bank of the Anger, after a ride 
of 50 versts. We passed over this river in the usual manner, 
and went on 25 versts more to the third station, where we 



172 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

paused for the night, quite satisfied with our day's progress. 

July 23d. At 9 A. M. started with fresh horses and con- 
tinued on our route. The travelHng was still more im- 
proved, and the country generally had a more agreeable 
appearance. The high mountains had disappeared, and we 
rode over level prairies, beautifully diversified with grasses 
and a great variety and profusion of flowers. Among the 
latter the red pink predominated, the odor of which scented 
the whole atmosphere, and made the journey delightful. 
At I P. M. we changed our horses at the fourth station, 
and at six arrived at the fifth, where we passed the night. 
Distance, 60 versts. 

July 24th. We had pleasant weather, and at 7 A. M. 
started on our route. At 8 P. M. we arrived at the seventh 
station, where we encamped for the night, and paid the 
postilion 35 rubles for the use of his horses, this being the 
last station to which he had authority to take us. Distance, 
60 versts. 

July 25th. At 7 A. M. we resumed our journey under 
the charge of another postilion. Our horses, since leaving 
the Aldan, had generally been very good; but this morning 
I found myself on a splendid animal, of a cream color, 
singularly and beautifully marked. A dark brown stripe 
about a hand's breadth ran from the crupper to the withers, 
and then spread over the shoulders in a broad patch; his 
mane and tail reached nearly to the ground. I could see 
that he was well groomed and cared for, but I was rather 
shy about mounting him at first. I was assured, however, 
that he was well broken and gentle, and I found him so. 
He was certainly the most perfect creature of the kind I 
ever rode or set eyes on. The plains over which we trav- 
elled this day were dotted over with innumerable cattle and 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 173 

horses grazing. At 9 P. M. we arrived at the tenth station 
and pitched our tent. Distance, 75 versts. 

July 26th. At 7 A. M, we continued on our route, and 
at 4 P. M. reached the right bank of the river Lena, which 
I crossed, and was kindly received and entertained at the 
Company's establishment at Yakutsk, This town, the cap- 
ital of the province of the same name, covers a large space 
of ground. The houses were mostly of logs, but some were 
spacious and tolerably handsome, and surrounded with large 
gardens. The churches and other public buildings, with 
their cupolas, made quite a conspicuous and pleasing appear- 
ance as we approached the place, but the streets were ir- 
regular, unpaved, and muddy. The latitude of the town 
is 62° 30' N, 

The breadth of the Lena at Yakutsk is about two miles. 
This magnificent river takes its rise in the southern part 
of Siberia, in lat. 52°. Its general course is northeast, and 
it empties into the Arctic Ocean in lat. 75°. With its tribu- 
taries it forms the principal channel for the discharge of 
the great water-sheds of the eastern part of the empire, 
and the thoroughfare of communication with the provinces 
of Ochotsk, Kamtchatka and the Aleutian Islands. Down 
this stream vessels carried the various articles needed in 
those distant regions, such as bread-stufifs, liquors, and 
manufactures, and brought up in return the furs and other 
commodities which found a ready market in China and 
Russia. 



174 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

VIIL 

Yakutsk. — Different Modes of Travelling. — Voyage up the Lena. — 
I arrive at Irkutsk. 

I DETERMINED to remain at Yakutsk a few days, to look 
around and ascertain the best mode of proceeding- up the 
river to Irkutsk. The distance in a straight Hne was about 
1500 miles, but by following the stream it would be much 
increased. There were post-stations the whole way, mostly 
on the left bank, and at intervals of twenty or thirty versts. 
At these horses were kept by the government, and one mode 
of making the proposed journey was in a small open boat, 
which was towed by them after the manner of a canal-boat, 
except that passengers changed boats at every station. An- 
other mode, and that which I decided to adopt, was to hire 
a larger craft, with mast and sails, and perform the whole 
distance without changing; but I was to have the privilege 
of receiving assistance from the horses whenever necessary, 
and for this purpose I obtained an order from the govern- 
ment called a deroshner or poderoshner. 

As soon as I had come to this conclusion, I commenced 
a search for a suitable boat, and at the same time I took 
the opportunity to look round the town. Accompanied by 
one of the gentlemen of the establishment, who devoted 
himself to my service, I visited all the public places, in- 
cluding the monastery, churches, and forts. I also called 
on several families, and was introduced as an American 
captain. Some of them were very inquisitive, and anxious 
to know where America was. It was a mystery to them 
how I got there, if I did not come by the way of St. Peters- 
burg and Moscow. I explained as well as I could without 
an interpreter, but after all they appeared to be rather 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 175 

sceptical. The Commandant, a cheerful and clever old man, 
was very kind and obliging, and we exchanged several visits. 
He asked for information with regard to our government 
and constitution, which I explained as well as I could; and 
as he understood no English and I very little Russ, it is 
quite possible I was taken for a very knowing chap. When 
I made a call at any one's house, no matter what time of 
day it was, if I stayed long enough for the tea-kettle to boil* 
(which, by the way, was almost always kept boiling), I was 
asked to take a cup of tea, and it was considered almost 
an insult to refuse. The second cup was usually laced with 
a little ardent spirits. This tea-drinking I found to be the 
universal custom in Siberia. 

The sables collected in the vicinity of Yakutsk are the 
finest and most beautiful in the world, and command a 
much higher price than those from Kamtchatka. As I had 
already collected a few skins as specimens, in my travels, 
I requested the Superintendent of the Company's establish- 
ment to supply me with a pair of the very best this district 
produced, and he kindly complied. They were certainly 
of great beauty, very dark-colored and shiny, with very long 
and thick-set fur. 

I found a boat in a few days, belonging to a couple of 
itinerant merchants, who had come down in her from the 
head-waters of the river, which I thought would answer 
my purpose. It was quite a nice boat, of about twenty feet 
in length; a little aft the centre there was a small round- 
house, with a sleeping-berth on each side. It had a keel, 
but was of light draft. The mast carried one large square 
sail ; and we could row with two oars forward and two aft. 

* It will be noted that Captain De Wolf nowhere speaks of vodka. 
—Ed. 



176 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

I chartered the boat for the passage, and was to deliver it 
up to the merchants, or their agent, when we had arrived 
at head-waters. One man who came down in it was to re- 
turn with me, on condition he worked his passage; and I 
found that the owners themselves desired to accompany us 
to their home. I had no serious objection to this, provided 
they supplied their own provisions; and, in fact, I thought 
it might be rather an advantage, as they were acquainted 
with the river. I gave them to understand at the outset, 
however, that the cabin must be at my exclusive disposal, 
and to this they readily agreed. I accordingly sent on board 
my goods and chattels, cooking utensils, and provisions. 
The Commandant, at my request, very obligingly appointed 
a Cossack to go with me, and a smart, energetic little fel- 
low he was. 

Having made everything ready, I took leave of my friends 
in Yakutsk, and assumed the command of my little craft, 
on the morning of the 30th of July, and thus commenced 
what was to me an entirely new phase of navigation. The 
wind being adverse, I had the horses hitched on, and away 
we went. My crew consisted of my man Parker, Kutsnet- 
soff, the Cossack, the man who worked his passage, and 
together with the two merchants and myself made seven of 
us in all. My weapons of defence (of which, by the way, 
there did not seem to be much need) consisted of a pair 
of double-barrelled pistols with spring bayonets, and a large 
broadsword, with a conspicuous gilt hilt finished off with 
an eagle's head. These implements looked dreadfully for- 
midable and warlike, and I deposited them in a convenient 
place in my cabin. I assigned to Parker, Kutsnetsoff, and 
the Cossack the berth which I did not use, and they were 
to turn in and out by watches. The two merchants and the 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 177 

other man were to select the best places to sleep they could 
find elsewhere. With matters arranged in this way, we 
went on in good style, the horses going most of the time 
at a gentle trot. In the course of the day we passed two 
post-stations. 

On the morning of the second day, having accomplished 
about 150 versts of my journey, I stopped at a post-station, 
where the official appeared to be a much more wide-awake 
man than any we had passed. I sent my deroshner to be 
written on, and my Cossack ordered the horses to be at- 
tached. This order not being obeyed at once, I saw there 
was some difficulty, and sent Kutsnetsoff to see what was 
the matter. On returning, he asked me to go into the office 
myself. So, hauling up the collar of my shirt, and, assum- 
ing such an air of importance as I thought the case might 
require, I went and demanded the cause of my detention. 
"The horses are all ready for you. Sir," said the postilion, 
"but those two merchants cannot go in that boat. The gov- 
ernment don't keep horses to accommodate travelling 
traders. If they want horses, they must pay for them." 
There was no alternative, but that the fellows should leave 
the boat; and, to my surprise, they did it without a word 
of objection. Perhaps they were conscious that they had 
taken advantage of my ignorance to get a passage home 
free of charge. I was not sorry for their removal, although 
they appeared to be good men; for one of them was a con- 
stant singer of love-songs which were all High Dutch to 
me, and from his proximity to my quarters his well-intended 
music became very annoying. This difficulty removed, we 
proceeded again, under three horse-power. By the time we 
reached the next station, the wind became favorable, we 
hoisted our sail to the breeze, and cast off from the horses. 



178 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

By keeping near the shore, out of the main current, we 
made better progress in this way than we had done pre- 
viously, and passed several stations without stopping. And 
so we went on by sail or by horse-power, according as the 
winds were favorable or adverse. 

August 6th, we reached Olakminsk, which is about 6oO 
versts from Yakutsk. By this time I began to think the 
mode of travelling I had chosen very pleasant. The season 
was delightful, and the scenery as we passed along was 
diversified with objects of sublimity and beauty. At times 
we were moving through level country, and at times among 
high mountains; in some places the river was contracted 
to a narrow span by precipitous ranges of cliffs, and again 
its broad expanse embraced many islands. To relieve the 
monotony of the confinement on board my boat, I occasion- 
ally rode on horseback from one station to another, and 
found the change very agreeable. The country in some 
places was thick-wooded, chiefly with fir and birch; in 
others, it was clothed with shrubbery, and I noticed currant 
and gooseberry bushes, and frequently alighted to refresh 
myself with the fruit. We passed a number of small clus- 
ters of shanties, inhabited by Tunguscans, in the vicinity 
of which herds of cattle were grazing. Near the houses 
were domestic reindeer of a large size. The children were 
playing about in little groups, and the older ones were 
amusing the younger by holding them on the backs of the 
deer, and teaching them to ride, — making quite a rural 
and domestic scene. 

We had at no time on our route any lack of good milk, 
and once we had about a gallon of rich cream given us. 
The idea struck me that it might be converted into butter ; 
I therefore had it put into a large pot, and with a kind of 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 179 

pudding-stick sat down at my cabin door, and as we were 
moving along began to stir it. In the course of half an 
hour I produced a lump of butter that would have put to 
shame seven eighths of the dairy-maids in this country. 

I had long since noticed the great deference shown to the 
military in these parts, but I saw it particularly illustrated 
by my Cossack, in exerting his authority among the people 
at a post-station. He was scolding them for their laziness 
in hitching on the horses, and I could hear that he was 
making a very great lion of me. "Start quick, you rascals," 
said he, "we have got a great American captain in the boat, 
going on government business !" And this seemed to ac- 
celerate everything, even the horses, for they travelled bet- 
ter after it. 

On the 15th, we passed Witim, which is about 1,400 
versts from Yakutsk. Here the favorable winds, of which 
we had availed ourselves for several days past, left us, and 
we took, as usual, to horse-power. A short time after, we 
came to a station of some ten or twelve houses, where the 
inhabitants were in great perturbation on account of the 
small-pox, which was raging among them. Some had fled 
from the place, and others would have gone had they not 
been detained by their families. The disease existed among 
them in all its stages, from the symptoms to the full pox. 
I had had considerable experience with it, and thought I 
might mitigate the suffering by inoculation. They were 
all desirous that I should do so, and gathered anxiously 
around me. I called for a needle and thread, and selecting 
one of the subjects whose pox was ripe, drew the thread 
through the pustules until it was saturated with matter. 
Then preparing the maggot (as I believe it is called), by 
cutting the thread into very short pieces, with my penknife 



i8o TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

I made a little incision in the upper arm, placed in it one 
of the maggots and bound it there. I went through this 
process on seven or eight, and instructed them how to per- 
form it ; and as to their diet, to eat no fat or salt meat, but 
to confine themselves to bread and milk. They were very 
grateful for the advice, and for what I had done for them, 
and were desirous of manifesting their gratitude in some 
more substantial form, but it was declined. 

After passing through an extensive grazing country, in- 
terspersed with large fields of grain, about 300 versts from 
Witim we came to rapids, with high precipitous banks on 
either side, where the velocity of the current was so great 
that we were obliged to hug the shore to avoid it. In some 
parts of it we could only get along by sending a small boat 
ahead to carry a line to warp by. This was a slow and 
laborious operation, and we were heartily rejoiced when 
we were through with it. The rapids once passed, the 
scenery became as interesting as it had been before, and 
the country, if anything, rather more populous and thriving. 
We saw, beside farming and grazing, a number of men 
engaged in fisheries along the banks of the stream. I could 
not see but that there was as great a degree of happiness 
here as in any other part of the world. The wants of the 
people were abundantly provided for by the produce of the 
soil and the river, and beyond this they seemed to have no 
desire. 

After passing through some more rapids, where we were 
again obliged to cast off our horses and warp the boat, on 
the 19th we reached Kirinsk, which is about 1,650 versts 
from Yakutsk. From here we went on quickly, owing to 
the good path for the horses on the shore, and on the 26th 
reached Wercholinsk. This was a considerable town, sit- 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO i8i 

uated on the right bank of the Lena; but we pushed by it 
without stopping. We now began to be troubled with the 
shallowness of the water, but we made out with difficulty 
to reach Katschuk, beyond which there was hardly enough 
to float a canoe, and we concluded we had reached the head 
of navigation. According to agreement I delivered up my 
boat here, and took a post-carriage for Irkutsk, where I 
arrived on the afternoon of the 28th of August, 1807, and 
drove into the court square of the Company's establishment. 



IX. 

Irkutsk. — Journey to Tomsk. — New Travelling Companion. — Tobolsk. 
— Russian Leave-taking. 

I PRESENTED my letters of introduction from the Cham- 
berlain, Baron von Resanoff, and was kindly welcomed by 
the Superintendent. He invited me to make his house my 
home while I remained in the place. I replied that my stay 
must be short, and begged him to assist me in procuring 
a convenient vehicle for my journey, so that I might not 
be obliged to change at every station, as I should if I went 
in a public conveyance. 

I discharged my Cossack when I gave up my boat, and 
made him a present of fifty rubles, all my cooking utensils, 
provisions, and some other articles. He took his leave, with 
many thanks and good wishes, which I cordially returned. 
I had brought Kutsnetsoflf home to his native town, from 
which he had been absent ten years. He started off imme- 
diately to find his mother. The next morning he made his 
appearance at my room, leading her in. She was a very 
dignified-looking elderly lady, dressed in black. As he intro- 



i82 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

duced her to me, she dropped upon her knees, and, while 
the tears from an overflowing and grateful heart were 
coursing down her cheeks, poured out her thanks for the 
interest I had taken in the return of her son. It touched 
me so deeply, that I could scarcely refrain from tears my- 
self. It carried my thoughts home to my poor mother, 
and I raised her up, and assured her that, if I had done 
her son a favor, or brought comfort and consolation to her, 
I was amply compensated by the pleasure and satisfaction 
the deed itself afforded me. Kutsnetsoff had previously 
observed that he should like to go on with me to Moscow 
to see his brother, if his mother were willing. When it was 
suggested to her, she readily gave her consent, being also 
desirous that he should see his brother. 

While we were talking about the matter, who should drive 
into the court square but Dr. Langsdorff. I was rejoiced 
to see him, but could not account for his being so close upon 
my heels. It appeared that he had arrived at Yakutsk 
shortly after my departure, and, making but a short stay, 
had been pushing on in the small boats, hoping to overtake 
and surprise me on the river. He had gained two days on 
me, but encountered all kinds of troubles and vexations, 
such as leaky boats, drunken boatmen, an inefficient Cossack 
guide, the upsetting of the boat, and loss of papers. He 
was quite chagrined when I told him that I, by taking a 
larger craft under my own control, had avoided all these 
difficulties, and had made quite a pleasant excursion of it. 

The Doctor having decided to make a longer stay than 
I desired to, that he might visit Kiakta, across the Lake 
Baikal, I purchased a vehicle which I thought would answer 
my purpose. It was called a pervoshka, and was nothing 
more than a box rounded at the bottom, and fixed firmly 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 183 

to the axletree without springs. A covered top reached 
from the back part nearly to the middle, resembling the 
top of a cradle. The forward part of the box was covered 
far enough to make a seat for the driver, from which a 
boot extended to the cradle-top. On the bottom of this out- 
landish concern I must either lie or sit upright throughout 
my whole journey. I therefore procured a good substantial 
feather-bed and put it in, with which and two or three well- 
stuffed pillows, my luggage, and other wadding, I thought 
I might get along without much chafing. As this carriage 
was only calculated for one person, I took a post-carriage 
of much the same construction for Parker and Kutsnetsoff. 

Being now all ready for the road, I decided to stay a day 
or two, and look round the place with my friend the Doctor. 
I shall not attempt a description of this large, and I might 
say handsome town. It is the modern capital of Siberia, 
and is situated on the banks of the beautiful river Angara, 
which is one of the largest tributaries of the Yenisei. It 
was in that day, and I suppose still is, the great commercial 
emporium of the eastern part of the empire, whence the 
more distant provinces are supplied, and whither are brought 
the furs and the products of the fisheries from Kamtchatka, 
Ochotsk, and the Aleutian Islands ; and through the frontier 
town of Kiakta, across Lake Baikal, the teas, nankins, silks, 
and other articles which are obtained from the Chinese in 
exchange for the sea-otter and sable skins, and find such 
a ready market in Russia. 

Having a journey before me of 3,500 miles, and desirous 
of reaching St. Petersburg before the close of navigation 
in the autumn, I was prepared to travel day and night, and 
of course passed many towns and villages without noticing 
them, only making short halts for a day or two at some 



i84 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

of the larger or shire-towns to rest. I was provided with 
a new deroshner, and a good supply of copper money to pay 
for fresh post-horses. On the 31st of August, having 
hitched the horses to our vehicles, — that is, one in the 
shafts of each, and one on each side, — and having again 
taken leave of Doctor Langsdorff and the Company's Super- 
intendent, the Yemshik, as the driver is called, mounted his 
box, cracked his whip, and away we went, leaving the cap- 
ital of Siberia behind us. The post-stations were about 25 
versts, or 15 miles, asunder, and we were well attended at 
them. If we desired it, we could obtain something to eat, 
and I generally availed myself of the opportunity twice a 
day, taking a substantial meal, and topping off with a cup 
of tea, preparatory for which we almost always found the 
kettle boiling. The Yemshik's signal for starting was the 
crack of his whip, and at that the horses would bound off 
at full speed, and he would begin to sing. The song, as 
well as the speed, was generally kept up from one station 
to another. The music was sometimes quite pleasant and 
cheering; the horses, at any rate, seemed to know that it 
meant "Go ahead." 

In this way we continued night and day. On the 6th of 
September we passed through Krasnojarsk, where the 
Chamberlain Baron von Resanoff had died. We continued 
on without stopping, and on the 7th reached the town of 
Poim, where I halted a couple of hours to deliver a letter 
from the young man Chlabnekoff, whom I took as a passen- 
ger from Kamtchatka to Ochotsk, to his brother. He called 
on me, and insisted on my going to his house, if it was only 
for an hour. His family wanted to see me, I took Kutsnet- 
soff with me, and we gave them all the information we 
could about their brother. We found a splendid collation 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 185 

prepared for us, with Madeira wine such as we do not have 
in these days. After concluding the entertainment with a 
bottle of champagne, we started off ; and whatever the facts 
may have been, we certainly felt much lighter than before. 
I merely mention this circumstance to show that there was 
no lack of "the good stuff" in Siberia. The Maine Law 
was not enforced there half a century ago. 

On the loth I reached the shire-town of Tomsk, and was 
constrained to acknowledge myself pretty well used up. I 
can assure those who have not made a trial of this mode of 
travelling, that to lay on one's back in a carriage without 
any springs, for eight days and nights in succession, is no 
joke. When I alighted occasionally my whole frame was 
in a perfect tremor, yet the roads were not stony, but tol- 
erably good. There was no regular hotel in the town, and 
so after a little inquiry we drove up to a large log-house, 
with a square enclosure in front, the owner of which was 
kind enough to entertain us. I immediately set Kutsnetsoff 
upon the lookout for a more easy and convenient carriage, 
and told him if he should find one to endeavor to dispose 
of my old one in part pay. In the mean time, having a 
letter from my friend Lieutenant Schwostoff to his uncle, 
who was Governor of the place, I waited on him. I was 
very cordially received, and invited to dine the next day. 

In a short time Kutsnetsofif succeeded in finding a vehicle 
much better than the old one. It was quite a stylish affair, 
on springs, and two persons could ride in it conveniently; 
but I had to pay as much to boot, perhaps, as both carriages 
were worth. I called upon the Company's agent to furnish 
me with 200 rubles, but he had received no particular in- 
structions to advance me money, and was reluctant to do it. 
He was quite reasonable, however, and was willing to listen 



1 86 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

to my story. While I was explaining to him who I was, 
and why I wanted money, there were several persons stand- 
ing by. Among them was a good-looking, well-dressed 
man, who spoke up and said he would let me have as large 
a sum as I wanted, at which the agent said he was willing 
to supply me. After I had finished my business the gentle- 
man who made the kind offer of his purse informed me 
that he himself was going to Moscow, and, if I had no 
objections, would like to take a seat in my carriage, and 
share the expense. I hardly knew what to answer, and I 
scrutinized him very closely. His face wore an honest look, 
and he had about his person two conspicuous orders of 
merit; so I concluded to accept his proposition. I found 
no reason afterwards to regret it. He was a Greek by 
birth, and a merchant of high standing. His name was 
Dementy Simonitch, and he had done several meritorious 
acts, for which he received medals from the Emperor Alex- 
ander, and likewise a present from him of a splendid gold 
watch and chain. 

Having arranged this matter, I repaired to the Gov- 
ernor's to dine and take leave of him. I found a great 
many gentlemen there, but not one who spoke English, 
so that I was almost a dummy amongst them. I under- 
stood enough Russ, however, to learn that they were de- 
sirous of inquiring into the nature and organization of our 
government. I explained all the prominent points as well 
as I could, and they appeared to understand, for they 
praised our institutions highly. If I was able, under the 
circumstances, to form a correct opinion, there was a good 
deal of the spirit of reform among them. After taking 
leave of the Governor, I commenced preparations to start 
the next morning. As I saw but little of the town, I can 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 187 

say but little or nothing of it. It was quite a large place, 
the houses nearly all of wood, and the streets broad and 
in some places planked in the centre for the convenience 
of foot-travel, and yet in others so muddy that there was 
no comfort in moving round out of a carriage. 

On the 1 2th of September I started with my new com- 
panion, and went on at the same breakneck pace as before. 
My new coach was far superior to the old one. We could 
sit up or lie down as we chose, and were not annoyed by 
the intolerable jarring of the body. My companion was 
very agreeable, and although he could not speak a word 
of English, and my vocabulary of Russ was too limited to 
hold a continued, intelligible conversation, we soon became 
accustomed to each other's pantomimic gestures, and got 
along quite understandingly. On the 19th we arrived, 
without any casualties worthy of remark, at Tobolsk, the 
ancient capital of Siberia, and put up, as usual, at a pri- 
vate house. 

Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, had acquaintances. He 
introduced me to the family of Mr. Zelinzoff, or Green, a 
highly respectable and wealthy merchant, and the proprietor 
of large iron-works at Ekatereinburg. He was himself 
absent from home, but, together with Dementy, I was in- 
vited by his son, who officiated as major-domo, to dine with 
his family while I remained in the city. I take pleasure 
in particularizing in regard to this family, on account of 
their marked civility and kindness to a stranger. It con- 
sisted of Madam Zelinzoff, three sons, a daughter, and a 
young man named Duro, who was a teacher of French, 
and spoke English fluently. They lived in splendid style, 
and spread a table for fifteen or twenty persons every day. 
Among the numerous invited guests was a French military 



1 88 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

officer in the Russian service, who spoke EngHsh well, and 
with whom I had a good deal of chat. After dinner the 
ladies and gentlemen retired to a large hall, where there 
was a billiard-table and a piano, violins and flutes, on which 
the amateurs displayed their skill. This was the agreeable 
practice daily while I was there. 

Perhaps I may be allowed here to make a few remarks 
in regard to the city of Tobolsk, though I cannot give a 
minute description of it. It is very singularly divided into 
the upper and lower town. The lower town seems to have 
been once the bed of the river Irtich, which now, uniting 
with the Tobol, runs through the western part of the valley, 
leaving both the upper and lower town on the eastern side, 
but divided distinctly by a steep bank, which was probably 
in former days the margin of the stream. The lower town 
is sometimes, though rarely, inundated ; and on the other 
hand the upper town is inconvenienced by a want of water. 
Taking both sections together they formed a very large 
place, with a numerous and mixed population of Tartars, 
Bucharians, and Kalmucks. The public buildings were 
mostly of stone, but the private houses, with few excep- 
tions, of wood. It was the great mart of trade with the 
eastern part of the Empire, and all the caravans from China 
and the distant provinces concentrated here. 

This place had formerly been the Botany Bay, or penal 
settlement, of the Russians, and from the descendants of 
convicts a great and flourishing city had sprung up, with 
its wealthy merchants, thrifty traders, and literary and 
scientific men. The German and French languages were 
taught and spoken by all the better classes. All kinds of 
provisions were so cheap, that the poorest inhabitant never 
need suffer for food; and I could see here, as throughout 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 189 

Siberia, the kindliest feelings manifested toward the lower 
orders of society. 

Having remained at Tobolsk six days, we prepared to 
continue our journey. Two of the young Mr. Zelinzoffs 
were to accompany us as far as their father's estate, at 
Ekatereinburg. Accordingly, after dining and making some 
preliminary arrangements for departure, the whole family, 
with their guests, assembled in the large room for a little 
chat and to take leave. Now this leave-taking was a some- 
what formal piece of business, and I had misgivings as to 
how I should acquit myself with becoming gallantry. The 
custom with the gentlemen was for each to lay the right 
hand on the other's back, and to kiss each other on both 
cheeks;* not unfrequently the noses came in rude collision. 
A lady presents you the back of the hand to kiss, and at 
the same time she kisses you on the cheek. Being all ready 
for action, the ladies and gentlemen placed themselves in 
a row round the room, and then the performance was com- 
menced by the two sons who were going with us, and con- 
tinued by my friend Dementy, By this time the perspira- 
tion had begun to start upon my forehead ; but I saw it was 
of no use to be lagging, and so, summoning all my courage, 
I turned to, and went through the ceremony like a veteran 
courtier. The last of the ladies I came to was the daughter, 
a great beauty, and I was greatly tempted, in violation of 
Russian etiquette, to kiss her cheek, but I managed to re- 
strain myself. 

* Our traveller was as much impressed with this habit of kissing as 
was Erasmus on his first landing in England. The Dutch scholar was 
pleased with the English fashion, which is, on the whole, far superior 
to the Russian style. — Ed. 



IQO TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Flying Ferry-Boat. — Ekatereinburg. — Kazan. — A Dinner- Party. — 
Moscow. — St. Petersburg. — Good News. 

After the ceremony described in the last chapter, we 
took to our carriages and proceeded to the ferry which 
crosses the Irtich, where we found what was called a flying 
ferry-boat, of sufficient size to transport several teams at 
once.* The hull of the craft did not swim deep in the 
water, but was furnished with a very deep keel along its 
whole length. It had a short mast, placed about as far 
forward as in sloops, and supported by shrouds. Now an 
anchor was sunk in the centre of the river some distance 
above, and from the anchor a rope, sustained on the surface 
by buoys, was extended and fastened to the bow of the boat. 
By means of a block and pulley this rope could be elevated 
about half the distance to the mast-head. When ready for 
starting, the bow, which was always pointed directly up 
stream at the landing-place, was pushed off a little, so that 
the current might strike the keel at an angle. This position 
was maintained by the use of the rudder; and as the boat 
could not drift down the river, on account of the anchor 
to which it was attached, it was driven sideways to the 
opposite shore. By this ingenious contrivance passengers 
and freight were carried across without the least trouble 
or labor. 

On the 24th we arrived at Ekatereinburg. During our 
stay here of one night, our young friends showed us about 
the iron-works, and we saw all the operations, from smelt- 
ing the ore to working It up into bar-iron. Gold ore was 

* Flying ferry boats not unlike these may be seen on some California 
rivers today. — Ed. 



I 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 191 

dug here by the government, and the pure metal extracted 
by pulverizing, and washing it on an inclined plane covered 
with ridges, which stopped the gold, while the lighter sub- 
stances were carried off with the water. It did not appear 
to be a very money-making process. The next day we took 
leave of our young friends, and pursued our journey west- 
ward to Kazan, on the river Volga, which we reached on 
the 30th. Here my carriage-mate, Dementy, was quite at 
home again, and we concluded to halt for a couple of days. 
The city was large and well built, and the most important 
place in the eastern part of Russia proper, 

I had for some time experienced the good effects of 
Dementy's badge of distinction, but it did us especial service 
here. It procured us an invitation to dine with the military 
Governor, who was himself of Greek extraction, and some- 
what acquainted with my friend. I had no great desire to 
go among great folks, as my wardrobe was scanty, and the 
few clothes I possessed had grown pretty threadbare with 
the wear and tear of my three years' cruise. I wished to 
decline, but Dementy said it would give offence. He had 
probably given an account of my adventures, and of my 
negotiation with the Chamberlain, Baron von Resanoff ; and 
this, together with the mark of the Emperor's approbation 
which he himself wore, had brought us into notice. 

At the proper time the military carriage of the Governor 
came for us, and away we went in fine style. We found 
a great number of persons assembled at his house, including 
officers, military and civil, and many ladies. I was intro- 
duced as an American captain. I felt a little uncomfortable 
lest I should be questioned with regard to my official grade, 
as it might not have been good policy to have explained 
my claim to a captaincy. It was a splendid entertainment, 



192 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

however, and, as I could not converse very intelligibly, I 
had little else to do than ply the knife and fork, while 
Dementy, who had somehow picked up all the particulars 
about me and my business, gave them my whole story, much 
to my satisfaction. After dinner we retired to another 
room, where coffee was served. The ladies questioned me 
about our country, and to show that they had some knowl- 
edge of American history, they spoke of Washington and 
Franklin in high terms. We conversed upon the subject 
until I had exhausted my whole stock of Russ in eulogizing 
those men. 

October 2d, we started on our route for Moscow, our 
next stopping-place. We met with nothing remarkable ex- 
cepting muddy roads and frequent altercations at the post- 
stations. There was evidently less respect paid to my 
friend's decorations, and less alacrity in attending to us. 
We, however, reached the great city of Moscow on the 8th, 
and passed within the first circle, which is called the Zem- 
lanoigorod. We wound along through the streets, as it 
seemed to me, for miles. At last Dementy pointed out a 
public house, where we stopped awhile to brush up and make 
ourselves look respectable, — after which Dementy left us. 
Kutsnetsoff sought at once the whereabouts of the Com- 
pany's establishment, and we started again, passed through 
the Bale gate into the circle of that name, and drove to 
the Company's house. I entered the spacious stone building 
with Kutsnetsoff, and met his brother, the Superintendent, 
on the great landing-stair. He was a splendid-looking man. 
After the brothers had embraced each other, and while tears 
were rolling down their cheeks, I was introduced. I was 
cordially welcomed, and led into a large hall, where I was 
presented to the Superintendent's lady, and Kutsnetsoff to 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 193 

a sister he had never seen before. She was a very hand- 
some woman, and richly dressed in the latest French style. 

After exchanging- mutual inquiries, I was told by the 
Superintendent that his house must be my home while I 
remained in the city. I replied that I was desirous of reach- 
ing St. Petersburg before the close of navigation, and con- 
sequently my stay must be short. They concluded that I 
could well spare a week. In that time I thought I could 
replenish my wardrobe with the latest European fashions, 
and at my request, a draper was sent for; he took my di- 
mensions, and I was soon fitted out completely. My 
Kamtchatka sable-skins were converted into a lining for a 
great coat, — as something of that kind had now become 
necessary, — and they made a splendid article. 

In the mean time, having leisure, I availed myself of the 
politeness of a young gentleman of the house, who offered 
to go round with me and show me the city. I made no note 
of what I saw at the time, and since then half a century 
has rolled by. I can only recall some of the leading features 
of the great metropolis, which may be interesting, as the 
date of my visit was but a few years before the conflagra- 
tion which drove Napoleon from the country. The city 
is situated on an elevation which in shape resembles a tur- 
tle's back. The river Moskva sweeps round nearly two 
thirds of it, and the land rises gently from the margin to 
the centre, which is so high as to command a splendid 
panoramic view of its whole extent. The city was divided 
into four departments or circles. The first, the Kremlin, 
situated on the crown of this eminence and enclosed with 
heavy ramparts of stone, formed a sort of fortress of very 
ample extent. It embraced within its walls magnificent 
cathedrals, palaces, and public buildings, all gorgeously dec- 



194 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

orated. Here also was the great bell, which stands on the 
ground, with a triangular piece broken out of the rim. Its 
weight is said to be four hundred thousand pounds.* The 
next circle was the Kitaigorod, or Chinese Town, also con- 
taining several cathedrals, convents, parish churches, and 
many noblemen's houses, interspersed with mean-looking 
wooden buildings. The third circle, which surrounded the 
former, was the Beloigorod, or White Town, and had a 
white wall. This was the business part of the city, and 
the streets, though mostly paved, were muddy and filthy. 
There were here, however, many public edifices, and hand- 
some private houses, the residences of the merchants and 
traders. The fourth circle, called Zemlanoigorod, or Land 
Town, was surrounded with an earthen embankment, and 
enclosed an area of nearly ten miles. In this as in the other 
circles, there was a great diversity in the cost of the differ- 
ent structures, the very extremes of magnificence and mean- 
ness being mingled together promiscuously. I was very 
much impressed with the grandeur and beauty of the whole 
city ; spread over more than twenty square miles of ground, 
adorned with a countless number of costly and elegant 
buildings, with thousands of spires and cupolas covered 
with silver and gold, when viewed from the Kremlin it 
afforded one of the most pleasing spectacles I ever gazed 
upon.t 

I was loath to leave when the time allotted for my stay 
had expired, but there was no help for it. So, equipped in 
the fashionable rig with which the draper furnished me, 
I turned my face toward St. Petersburg. The Superin- 
tendent was kind enough to propose that Kutsnetsoff should 

*At least 448,000 pounds. — Ed. 

t This was five years before the burning of Moscow in the Napo- 
leonic War. — Ed. 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 195 

accompany me to my journey's end, which proposal I gladly 
accepted. On the morning of the 17th, I took leave of the 
good friends who had shown me so much kindness, and 
stepped into my carriage, rode through the suburbs, and 
at noon emerged into the open country. We passed many 
villages and large towns, but continued on without stopping 
at any of them except to take our meals. 

On the 2 1st of October, 1807, we reached the gates of 
St, Petersburg, and, after going through a thorough ex- 
amination of passports, were permitted to go on. We drove 
at once to the Company's establishment, where I was kindly 
received and entertained by Mr. Booldakoff, the first director 
of the Russian American Company, It was evening when 
I arrived, and as neither Mr, B. nor any one in the house 
could speak English, I remained partially ignorant of the 
business which most interested me until the next morning, 
A gentleman then came in who accosted me in good round 
English, and I was quite overjoyed at the sound. This was 
Mr, Benedict Cramer, a gentleman with whom I became 
very intimate in business afterwards. He was the senior 
partner of the house of Cramer, Smith, & Co., and was also 
one of the directors of the Company, 

He soon threw light upon my whole business by saying 
that his partner, Mr, Smith, was in the United States, and 
had seen my owners and assured them that the bills of 
exchange, the duplicates of which had reached them through 
the hands of Mr. Moorfield, were good. Mr. Moorfield 
had been out with a ship in the course of the season, the 
bills had been accepted and paid with fifteen per cent ad- 
vance, because Spanish dollars, in which they were payable, 
commanded that premium. The proceeds had been invested 
in hemp, iron, and manufactures and sent to America; and 



196 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the business had been transacted through his house. "You 
have now nothing to do," he conckided, "but to take all 
the pleasure you can while you remain with us." I shook 
him heartily by the hand, and made him a low bow; after 
which we walked out together to his place of business. He 
introduced me to his brother and Mr. L. Harris, the Amer- 
ican Consul, who was connected with his firm; and in the 
same way I became acquainted with a number of influential 
gentlemen, from whom I received many civilities. 

Mr. Booldakoff, whose house I made my home, showed 
me every attention. He took me in his carriage to all the 
places of note in the city, and had an audience with the 
Count Ramansoff, the Prime Minister, to whom I was pre- 
sented. In short, every mark of respect that could be ac- 
corded to a stranger was shown me. 



XL 

I sail down the Baltic in a Dutch Galiot. — Take Passage at Elsinore 
in the Mary for Portland. — Put in at Liverpool. — Home again. — 
Conclusion. 

Things went on so smoothly and pleasantly at St. Peters- 
burg that I took no note of time. Six days had already 
slipped by before I began to think of making a further 
move. There were no American ships at Cronstadt when 
I arrived, but I was told that there were always oppor- 
tunities till the last of November to obtain a passage to 
England, so that I felt quite easy. Just as I commenced 
preparations for starting, however, war was declared be- 
tween Russia and England, and all foreign ships left 
Cronstadt. I now thought it doubtful whether I could ob- 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 197 

tain a passage to England, but I made all haste for the 
port, to make a trial, at least. Mr. Booldakoff gave me 
a letter to the harbor-master, the Consul one to his Vice, 
the Messrs. Cramer one to Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co., 
at Elsinore. With these I took leave of my St. Petersburg 
friends, and started ; but when I arrived at the Mole I was 
quite discouraged to find that there was not a merchant- 
vessel in sight. I called on the Vice-Consul, but he knew 
of no way to help me. Though thinking it would be use- 
less, I determined to present my letter to the harbor-master. 
He read it, and after a little reflection, and a number of 
questions about my journey, said that I had better go down 
to the Mole head with him, and see what could be done. 

We found, on inquiry, that there was one solitary vessel, 
a small galiot, lying at anchor below the Tolbeacon, about 
three miles off. She was bound for London, and he thought 
I could get a passage in her, if I were willing to try; at 
the same time he offered to send me aboard. I jumped at 
the proposition, and told Parker to get our goods and chat- 
tels into the boat as soon as possible. Thanking the harbor- 
master for his assistance, I started off for the galiot. She 
was a small craft, of seventy or eighty tons burden, loaded 
with tallow. The skipper was a little old Dutchman, short 
of five feet in height, and a mate and cook composed his 
crew. I asked him if he would take me as passenger to 
London. "Yaw," says he. "And will you let my man work 
his passage?" "Yaw, goot," says he. I paid the officer 
of the boat for his trouble, and he left us. Being now at 
leisure, I began to look round to see what kind of a ship 
and accommodations we had got. She was rather a flat- 
bottomed vessel, carrying lee-boards, to keep her from drift- 
ing to the leeward when sailing by the wind. I questioned 



198 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the skipper about the provisions, and he beHeved that there 
were enough, such as they were. The cabin was a trunk, 
so called, above the deck, abaft the mainmast, in which 
there were two boxes with slide-doors. One was his berth, 
and the other the mate's. He informed me that I must 
sleep with him, and my man must turn in and out with 
the mate. I thought this a fair arrangement, and so we 
settled it. 

It was morning when I went on board ; and after dinner, 
which consisted of beans and buckwheat pudding, we got 
under way. The wind was light but favorable, so that we 
crept along down the Gulf at about the same rate we used 
to go in our little Russian vessel. The weather was mod- 
erate and the sea smooth, and after so much land-travel 
I enjoyed the change very much. We continued to grope 
along until we reached the island of Bornholm, in the Baltic. 
Here we took a westerly gale, which would have put a stop 
to our progress if we had not fortunately got under the 
lee of the island, and continued sailing from one end to the 
other of it for two days, when the gale abated, and the wind 
changed. This enabled us to continue on our course, so 
that on the 13th of November we reached Elsinore. Here 
I presented my letters from the Messrs. Cramer, and was 
kindly received by Messrs. Belfour, Ellah, & Co. 

Though the galiot was detained by contrary winds, as 
long as there was no alternative, I concluded to stick by 
her; but on the second day I was standing on the pier and 
looking up the sound towards Copenhagen, when I saw 
a ship coming down with a large American ensign flying, 
at the sight of which my heart leaped right up into my 
throat. I waited until she came to anchor, and then called 
a shore-boat and went off to her. She proved to be the 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO I99 

Mary of Portland, Captain David Gray, and was home- 
ward bound. This was joyful news, and affected me so 
deeply that I could hardly tell the Captain my story. At 
last, after making known who I was, and from whence I 
came, I asked him if he would take me as passenger, and 
he readily consented. I went immediately to the galiot to 
settle with the little Dutch skipper. To the question, how 
much was I to pay him, he answered that he only wanted 
"Was billig ist, das ist mir recht." Not knowing exactly 
what that was, I tendered him twenty Spanish dollars, with 
which he was well satisfied, and made him a bonus of a 
pair of leather breeches, which he had worn ever since we 
left Cronstadt. Wishing him a prosperous voyage, I took 
my leave and my baggage and went on board the Mary. 
She was a fine ship, in ballast, and had a splendid cabin 
for the times. The captain was a social, clever fellow, and 
we soon became well acquainted. We left Elsinore on the 
20th, and proceeded down the Kattegat. When we got 
down as far as Gottenburg, we found the wind blowing 
in heavily through the Sleeve, which obliged the pilot to 
put into Marstrand, a small port in Sweden. Here we lay 
two days. 

On the 24th, we put to sea again. We passed the Naze 
of Norway, and steered for the Orkney Islands ; but, owing 
to adverse winds and stormy weather, it was the 2d of 
December before we got through the Fair Isle Passage. 
We then encountered a series of westerly gales, in the course 
of which it was discovered that one of the ship's rudder- 
braces had worked loose. It was deemed unsafe to pursue 
our course across the Atlantic, and Captain Gray accord- 
ingly altered his course for Liverpool, where we arrived on 
the 15th. This was a great disappointment to me, par- 



200 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

ticularly as my pecuniary resources were exhausted, and 
I saw before me unavoidable expenses; at the same time, 
I had no rehsh for the storms of a northern passage and 
a winter's coast. I reconciled myself, however, with the 
prospect of seeing England; and as Captain Gray offered 
to supply me with money until I reached Portland, I was 
quite content. I went with him to a boarding-house, where 
we remained while the ship was undergoing repairs. In 
the mean time, I made myself acquainted with the city and 
its environs. At the end of two months the Mary was 
ready for sea again, and having taken on board a quantity 
of salt, we sailed on the 7th of February. We had a pleas- 
ant voyage, and arrived at Portland on the 25th of March. 
Here I settled with the Captain, to whom I was indebted 
for my passage, board, and sundry loans, the whole amount- 
ing to the sum of two hundred and fifty dollars. I gave 
him a draft on Mr. John Park, of Boston, and it proved 
quite fortunate for him that I did so. His owners had 
failed just before our arrival, and, as they were indebted 
to him, he would have been a loser but for this draft. 

You may suppose that I started with as little delay as 
possible for Bristol. I arrived there on the ist of April, 
1808, and thus terminated an absence of three years and 
eight months. In two years and six months from the time 
of my departure, the owners were in receipt of the proceeds 
of the voyage, which resulted in a clear profit of one hun- 
dred THOUSAND DOLLARS. 

I have now reached the end of my story ; but before I lay 
down my pen, let me say a word more of the friends men- 
tioned in the preceding pages. I continued in the Russian 
trade, in which I had made so successful a beginning, and 



VOYAGE OF THE JUNO 201 

returned to St. Petersburg in 1809. It so happened that 
I found Dr. Langsdorff and Lieutenants Schwostoff and 
Davidoff there. The latter two gentlemen, since we last 
met, had been engaged in the war with Sweden, and had 
become honorably distinguished. While I was visiting the 
Doctor, they came over to pass an evening with us, and 
we sat talking of old times until two in the morning. They 
then started for their own lodgings, which were on the 
other side of the river. Langsdorff and myself accom- 
panied them to the drawbridge, which was open for ships 
to pass in the night. Our friends, therefore, passed over 
a plank which lay from the bridge to a vessel in the river 
and regained the other side of the bridge by another plank, 
calling to us and wishing us good-night, when they were 
safe over, and we then went back to our quarters. The 
next morning we received the melancholy intelligence that 
two naval officers had been drowned in the Neva during 
the night, and, upon further inquiry, we learned that they 
were our friends. After we had parted from them, they 
became desirous, God knows for what purpose, to return 
to us again, and, in order to get over quicker, they at- 
tempted to spring from the bridge upon a bark that was 
going through. They mistook a sail for the deck of the 
vessel, and both fell into the water. The people in the 
bark endeavored to rescue them, but the night was so dark, 
and the current so strong, that they went under before they 
received any assistance. Though fifty years have gone by 
since the death of these young men, I cannot forbear to re- 
call their many virtues and lament their untimely end. 



PART III 
JAMES DE WOLF AND THE PRIVATEER YANKEE 



i_jAMES DE WOLF 

The story of the Hfe of James De Wolf reads Hke a 
chapter of wild romance. Without any advantages of birth, 
fortune or education his indomitable energy and his com- 
manding abilities won for him a seat in the greatest de- 
liberative assembly in the world, the Senate of the United 
States, and also secured for him one of the largest for- 
tunes in America. 

He was born in Bristol, March i8, 1764, the seventh 
son of Mark Anthony De Wolf, clerk of the Prince Charles 
of Lorraine, whose raid upon the coast of French Guiana 
under the leadership of Simeon Potter has already been 
set forth in this book. He was born of American parents 
upon the French island of Guadaloupe. The sudden fancy 
of Captain Potter rescued him from a possible life of ob- 
scurity upon that island that his children might rise to 
influence and power and wealth in America. 

Mark Anthony De Wolf married a sister of Potter and 
became master of one of his brother-in-law's vessels. More 
than a very moderate income he never enjoyed, and his 
sons were compelled to earn their own living at an early 
age. Following the natural trend of Bristol boys of that 
period they took up their father's calling. All who reached 
manhood became shipmasters, and nearly all of them at- 
tained large riches. One of James De Wolf's descendants, 
the Rev. C. B. Perry, tells in his book "The De Wolfs" 
this story of his ancestor's entrance upon a seafaring 
life : "Several of them [the De Wolf boys] who had been 

205 



2o6 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

sweating in the corn rows one summer day flung down 
their hoes, declaring they would no longer hoe corn when 
they knew they could get places on their Uncle Sim Potter's 
privateer about to sail from Providence. So off they 
trudged upon the road to that city. As after their long 
dusty walk they emerged from Seekonk Woods near the 
old 'Red Bridge,' James, the youngest but one of the party, 
becoming conscious of the dilapidated condition of his hat, 
and with the vanity of a handsome lad less resigned than 
his father to his appearance, cried out, 'Boys, I'm not going 
through Providence like this,' and flung the crownless brim 
— or was it a brimless crown ?^ — into the wayside bushes. 
Bareheaded he presented himself with his brothers to his 
no doubt astonished yet sympathetic, bluff old Uncle Sim 
Potter. They secured the coveted places on the ship and 
thus began that life of devotion to the sea which the sea 
was soon so richly to repay." 

Twice in his early seafaring life James De Wolf was 
captured; for many weeks he was held a prisoner on the 
Bermuda Islands. His zeal and ability speedily won for 
him promotion. Having entered the employ of John Brown, 
the leading ship owner of Providence, he was made master 
of a vessel before he had completed his twentieth year. 
His earliest voyages as captain were made to the coast of 
Africa as master of a small slaver. No stigma whatever 
was attached to the slave trade at that time. It was re- 
garded as a perfectly legitimate business and was known 
to be more than ordinarily hazardous because of climatic 
conditions and the dangerous nature of the coast. The 
captains engaged in it had to be men of unusual force of 
character in order to be successful. Before he was twenty- 
five years old De Wolf had accumulated a fortune large 



JAMES DE WOLF 207 

enough to keep him in ease and even hixury for the re- 
mainder of his hfe. But he could not be idle. He was 
continually branching out into new ventures in which he 
was almost invariably successful. Everything seemed to 
turn to gold in his hands. His aim was always to be first 
in a new field. After he had skimmed the cream from a 
market he was content to leave for those who followed him 
the moderate, though perhaps surer gains. 

As long as the slave trade remained legal he continued 
in it, not infrequently going to the southern ports to super- 
vise the sale of his cargoes. This was the case in 1804 
when the Legislature of South Carolina opened the ports 
of that State for the importation of African slaves. One 
day one of his townsmen, a sailor on a new arrival from 
the African coast, was walking along the principal street 
of Charleston, in charge of a party of slave girls that had 
just been sold, each dusky maiden being picturesquely 
though not sumptuously attired in a short cotton chemise. 
As he was passing the leading hotel, he heard a well known 
voice call out: "Benjamin! Benjamin! Where are you 
going with those girls?" and down from the veranda came 
"Captain Jim" to greet his fellow Bristolian and to talk 
over his voyage with him. During the four years that fol- 
lowed two hundred and two vessels, carrying nearly forty 
thousand slaves, entered the port of Charleston. 

Sixteen years afterward Mr. De Wolf was elected a 
member of the United States Senate, where his large busi- 
ness experience and his special knowledge of industrial and 
commercial conditions gave him great influence. Like most 
of the Senators from the Northern States he opposed the 
admission of Missouri as a slave State. Public opinion in 
the North concerning slavery had greatly changed since 



2o8 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

1808. In that year the African slave trade was prohibited 
by law, and very soon after all the leading nations of the 
world united in efforts to suppress it. But because it im- 
mediately became more profitable than ever before, men 
still continued to engage in it. Then came the "horrors of 
the Middle Passage" (i.e., the voyage from Africa to the 
West Indies) at which all the world shuddered. Those 
who had engaged in the earlier trade were covered with 
an obloquy which they did not deserve. 

Public opinion concerning slavery as practiced in the 
South also changed, but not so quickly in South Carolina, 
the leading slave State, as elsewhere. There the planters 
who formed the governing class had only come to draw a 
distinction between the men who brought the slaves from 
Africa and the men who used them after they were landed 
in America. Even today, in the North as well as the South, 
the same subtle distinction is drawn. The fact that the 
men who brought slaves faced innumerable dangers in their 
voyages counted for nothing in the judgment of those who, 
in ease and safety, enjoyed the fruits of slave labor. Sen- 
ator Smith of South Carolina was the exponent of the 
Southern idea. In an impassioned speech he reflected se- 
verely upon the bitterness the people of Rhode Island had 
lately shown against slaveholders, and especially against the 
admission of Missouri as a slave State. "This, however, 
he believed could not be the temper or opinion of the ma- 
jority, from the late election of James De Wolf as a mem- 
ber of the Senate, as he had accumulated an immense 
fortune by the slave trade." He went on to say that, of 
the two hundred and two vessels whose names he gave, 
"ten and their African cargoes belonged to Mr. De Wolf," 
and he closed his speech with a recapitulation tabulating 
the facts given in the following paragraph : 



JAMES DE WOLF 209 

From January i, 1804, to December 31, 1807, inclusive, 
two hundred and two slave ships entered the port of Charles- 
ton. Seventy of these vessels were owned in Great Britain, 
three in France, one in Sweden, sixty-one in Charleston, 
fifty-nine in Rhode Island and eight in other American 
ports. Of the two hundred and two consignees ninety-one 
were natives of Great Britain, eighty-eight of Rhode Island, 
thirteen of Charleston and ten of France. Altogether, 
39,075 slaves were brought in. More than half of them, 
19,949, came under the British flag. French ships brought 
1,078. The fifty-nine vessels haiHng from Rhode Island 
brought in 8,238, as follows: Bristol ships, 3,914, New- 
port 3,488, Providence 556, Warren 280. As is evident 
from the cargoes the American vessels engaged in the trade 
were much smaller than the foreign craft. The seventy 
British slavers averaged almost two hundred and eighty-five 
slaves each. The French average was three hundred and 
fifty-nine plus, while the fifty-nine Rhode Islanders averaged 
not quite one hundred thirty-nine and a half. The foreign 
vessels were probably full rigged ships, while the Narra- 
gansett Bay craft were for the most part brigs and schoon- 
ers of two hundred tons or less. Even so they were larger 
than the Newport slavers captured by the enemy in the early 
years of the "Old French and Indian War," a part of the 
Seven Years War in Europe, 1756-1763- Those vessels 
had "live cargoes" varying from forty-three to one hun- 
dred and thirty head. The Caesar of Newport, a full 
rigged ship, carried only one hundred and sixteen. Of the 
vessels mentioned in these Tales the Yankee's tonnage was 
one hundred and sixty tons. The Juno was a full rigged 
ship of two hundred and fifty tons, one of the finest vessels 
sailing from Bristol in her time. The cargo of twenty 



2IO TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Junos could easily be stowed in the holds of one of the 
five masted schooners that bring coal into the port of 
Providence today. The tonnage of the Prince Charles of 
Lorraine is not known. 

Study of the statistical tables on which Senator Smith 
based his remarks^ shows that Mr. De Wolf was inter- 
ested in four other Rhode Island ships besides the ten credit- 
ed to him by the Senator from South Carolina. These hailed 
from Rhode Island and were consigned to Christian & De 
Wolf. He may also have been the owner of three other 
Rhode Islanders which on their first voyage were not con- 
signed to him. The statistics show that the voyage to Af- 
rica and return must ordinarily have taken more than a year. 
During the year 1804 but three Rhode Island slave ships en- 
tered the port of Charleston, and the total number of slavers 
was twenty, of which seven hailed from Charleston itself. 
The next year the number of arrivals had increased to 
thirty, six of which were owned in Rhode Island and five 
in South Carolina. In 1806 the number of arrivals was 
fifty-six, thirteen being Rhode Island vessels, and the same 
number hailing from Charleston. In the last open year, 
1807, the arrivals leaped to ninety-six, thirty-seven of them 
belonging in Rhode Island and thirty-three in South Caro- 
lina. Of the Rhode Island vessels, two, the Neptune and 
the Hiram, made three round trips each, while ten others 
brought in two cargoes. Two of the sixty-one Charleston 
ships made three voyages, and five accomplished two. Nine 
of the vessels of Great Britain made two voyages each; 
no British vessel made three. The four big Frenchmen 
entered the harbor but once. Apparently small, swift ships 
were more profitable than large ones. Necessarily a large 
lAnn. Cong. 2 Sess. 1820-21, Senate, pp. 71-77. 



JAMES DE WOLF 211 

part of the trip was consumed in securing a cargo, and the 
dangers of the "coast fever" were greatest in the case of 
a large ship. 

The African trade was but one of the commercial avenues 
in which Mr. De Wolf's ships sailed. His larger vessels 
had already visited Chinese ports when the smaller craft 
turned their prows toward Africa. While the little Hiram 
was gathering cargoes of naked negroes, the full rigged 
ship Juno was filling its hold with the furs of the frozen 
''Northwest Coast." How exceedingly profitable that ven- 
ture was we have already learned from the account of 
"Norwest John." Until the year 1812 the chief obstacle 
to the development of American commerce was the con- 
stant interference of British warships and their illegal im- 
pressment of American sailors on the pretence that the men 
impressed were not Americans but Englishmen, and there- 
fore subject to the British Crown. As a large ship owner 
Mr. De Wolf had suffered great losses. Of these he had 
kept a careful account and he longed for the day of retalia- 
tion to come. To most of the New Englanders of that day 
the act passed on June 18, 1812, declaring war between the 
United States and the United Kingdom of Great Britain 
and Ireland seemed the death blow to their commercial 
prosperity. Not so did it seem to James De Wolf. He 
saw in it the opportunity to regain from captured merchant- 
men all that he had lost at the hands of British men-of-war. 
Not for personal reasons alone did he rejoice at the com- 
mencement of hostilities. He believed that the interests 
of the whole country demanded it; all his sympathies were 
enlisted in it; all his resources he confidently staked upon 
the final issue of the struggle. He caused the banks in 
which he owned a controlling interest to invest all their 



212 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

available capital in United States bonds, and when the 
national credit was lowest he advanced from his own purse 
money to build a sloop of war.^ Mr. De Wolf early grasped 
the fact that the only vulnerable part of Great Britain, as 
far as the United States was concerned, was its merchant 
marine. He foresaw that the American privateers would 
drive the English commerce from the ocean and he at once 
proceeded to perform his part in accomplishing that result. 
Not the United States war vessels, marvellous though their 
achievements were, but the privateers that sailed out from 
Bristol and Baltimore and many ports of New England, 
brought the War of 1812 to an end. 

Besides the Yankee Mr. De Wolf was the principal owner 
of three other privateers, the Water Witch, the Blockade 
and the Macdonough. The Water Witch was the only 
one of these to send a prize into Bristol harbor. She was 
a little coasting schooner of more than ordinary speed. 
Her owners procured for her a privateer's license that she 
might seize the slower craft that furnished the British fleet 
with supplies. Her one prize was a flour laden schooner 
which netted a profit to its owners of about $5,000, a sum 

2 This vessel was the Chippewa. One of the Bristol privateers, the 
Macdonough, had developed such remarkable speed as to call public 
attention to her builder. Captain Caleb Carr of Warren, R. I. Accord- 
ingly Commodore Oliver Hazard Perry, as agent of the United States 
Government, was ordered to contract with Captain Carr for the build- 
ing of a warship within ninety days. Perry, be it remembered, had 
already developed, upon the shores of Lake Erie, a marvellous capa- 
city for building ships in record time. On March 15, 1814, only fifty- 
seven days from the time her keel was laid, notwithstanding many 
days of storm and snow, this ship of 411 tons burden, carrying six- 
teen guns, was delivered to Commodore Perry for her rigging and 
armament. A few days afterward she went to sea completely armed 
and rigged. The money for both its construction and equipment was 
advanced by Mr. De Wolf. 



JAMES DE WOLF 213 

which paid for the Water Witch several times over. The 
Blockade sailed from Bristol on a four months cruise 
November 19, 181 2. It had been planned that she should 
sail in company with the Yankee but that little hermaphro- 
dite brig^ was too fast for her. She took a dozen or more 
vessels, but all her prizes were recaptured and she proved 
to be only a bill of expense to her owners. From the Mac- 
donough great things were hoped. She was much the 
largest and fastest of the Bristol ships but she entered the 
contest too late. She found an ocean swarming with the 
sails of warships when she sailed out from Narragansett 
Bay. Her wonderful speed prevented her capture and she 
was able to take many prizes but all her prizes were re- 
taken. Oliver Wilson, successful captain of the Yankee 

3 A word about nautical terms for the benefit of those not in an 
old sea port born. All vessels, except the one masted sloops, are 
much larger than those of a hundred years ago, and the number of 
masts upon vessels has been increased. A "full rigged ship" of a 
century ago w&s a three masted vessel with square sails hanging 
from yards on each of the masts. Schooners and brigs were two 
masted vessels, the former with sails on both masts similar to those 
upon a sloop yacht today, but very much smaller. The schooner rig 
was not applied to three masted craft until about the middle of the 
last century. The giant schooners of the present time, with their 
(four, five, six and even seven masts, had not been dreamed of fifty 
years ago. The schooner rig was devised in Gloucester, Massachu- 
setts, about the year 1713. It is gradually making its way around 
the world. The writer noted that in 1904 it had almost entirely sup- 
planted the "junk" upon the Inland Sea of Japan. 

Brigs were of two kinds, full rigged and hermaphrodite. A full 
rigged brig had square sails on both masts, while the hermaphrodite 
(in sailor dialect "morfydite") had square sails on the foremast and 
schooner sails on the other, and was sometimes called a brigantine. 
The Yankee, ordinarily spoken of as a brig, was really a brigantine. 
Brigs are rarely seen in United States ports today. They almost in- 
variably sail under a foreign flag. 



214 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

on two of her cruises, was her commander on her one 
cruise, so it goes without saying that she was weh handled, 
but she proved to be a losing investment. She was built 
by Captain Carr at Warren in the last year of the war, and 
after the struggle was ended was placed in the Cuban trade. 
Once she made the voyage from Havana to Bristol in six 
days notwithstanding the fact that she was lying becalmed 
for a whole day. After the slave trade had been declared 
illegal and hence required the very swiftest vessels for its 
service, she was sold to Cuban parties who fitted her for 
a slaver. Her career as such was not long. Having 
a cargo of slaves on board she was chased one day by a 
warship, and, running for shelter into the harbor of Matan- 
zas, struck upon a reef on which she was soon pounded to 
pieces. Her crew were saved to a man. Not so the slaves; 
they all perished. 

Eleven days after the Declaration of War was proclaimed 
Mr. De Wolf sent to the Secretary of War this letter: 

Bristol, R. I., June 30, 1812. 
The Honorable William Eustis, 
Secretary of War : — 

Sir; I have purchased and now ready for sea, an armed 
brig, (one of the most suitable in this country for a privateer) 
of one hundred and sixty tons burden, mounting eighteen guns, 
and carries one hundred and twenty men, called the Yankee, 
commanded by Oliver Wilson. Being desirous that she should 
be on her cruise as soon as possible, I beg that you will cause 
a commission to be forwarded as soon as practicable to the 
Collector of the District, that this vessel may not be detained. 
I am very respectfully. Sir, 

Your obedient servant, 

James De Wolf. 

The commission of the Yankee was issued July 13, 1812. 
Her owners were James De Wolf and John Smith, the lat- 



JAMES DE WOLF 215 

ter owning but one-quarter of the vessel. The Articles 
of Agreement under which the privateer sailed were as 
follows : 

Articles of Agreement between the Owners, Officers 

AND Company of the Private armed Vessel of 

War, Yankee. 

1st. It is agreed by the parties that the Owners fit the 
Vessel for sea and provide her with great guns, small arms, 
powder, shot and all other warlike stores, also with suitable 
medicines and every other thing necessary for such a vessel 
and her cruise for all of which no deduction is to be made from 
the shares, for which the Owners or their substitutes shall 
receive or draw One Half the nett proceeds of all such Prizes 
or prize as may be taken, and the other half shall be the prop- 
erty of the Vessel's Company to be divided in proportions as 
mentioned in the 15th article, except the cabin-stores and fur- 
niture which belong to the Captain. 

2d. That for preserving due decorum on board said vessel, 
no man is to quit or go out of her on board any other vessel, 
or on shore without having first obtained leave of the Com- 
manding officer on board, under the penalty of such punish- 
ment or fine as shall be decreed by the Captain and Officers. 

3d. That the Cruise shall be where the Owners or the major 
part of them shall direct. 

4th. If any person shall be found a RINGLEADER of 
any Mutiny, or causing disturbance, or refuse to obey the 
Captain, or any Officer, behave with Cowardice, or get drunk 
in time of action, he or they shall forfeit his or their shares of 
any dividend, or be otherwise punished at the discretion of 
the Captain and Officers. 

5th. If any person shall steal or convert to his own use 
any part of a prize or prizes, or be found pilfering any money 
or other things belonging to this Vessel, her Officers, or Com- 
pany, and be thereof convicted by her Officers, he shall be 
punished and forfeit as aforesaid. 

6th. That whoever first spies a prize or sail, that proves 
worth 100 dollars a share, shall receive Fifty Dollars from the 
gross sum ; and if orders are given for boarding, the first man 
on the deck of the Enemy shall receive Half a share to be de- 
ducted from the gross sum of prize-money. 



2i6 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

7th. That if any one of the said Company shall in time of 
action lose an eye or a joint, he shall receive Fifty Dollars, and 
if he lose a leg or an arm, he shall receive Three Hundred 
Dollars to be deducted out of the Gross sum of Prize-money. 

8th, That if any of said Company shall strike or assault 
any male prisoner, or rudely treat any female prisoner, he 
shall be punished or fined as the Officers shall decree. 

9th. That if any of the said Company shall die or be killed 
in the voyage, and any prizes be taken before or during the 
action in which he is so killed, his share or shares shall be paid 
to his legal representatives. 

loth. That whoever deserts the said Vessel, within the 
time hereinafter mentioned, shall forfeit his Prize-money to 
the Owners and Company of the said Vessel, his debts to any 
person on board being first paid out of it, provided it does not 
amount to more than one half the same. 

nth. That on the death of the Captain, the command to 
devolve on the next in command and so in rotation. 

I2th. That no one of said company shall sell any more 
than one half his share or right of claim thereto of any prize 
previous to her being taken. 

13th. That the Captain and Officers shall appoint an agent 
of said Vessel's company for and during the term of the said 
cruise. 

14th. That all and everyone of said Company do agree to 
serve on board of said Vessel for the term of four months, 
conformable to the terms herein mentioned, beginning the 
said term at the time of her departure from the harbour of 
Bristol. 

15th. That One Half of the Nett proceeds of al| prizes 
taken by the said Vessel which is appropriated to the Vessel's 
Company shall be divided among them in the following man- 
ner (viz) To the Captain sixteen Shares and all such privileges 
and freedoms as are allowed to the Captains of Private armed 
Vessels of War from this Port. 

To the First Lieutenant nine Shares. To the 2d and 3d 
Lieutenants and Surgeon eight Shares each. Prize masters 
and Master's Mate and Captain of Marines six Shares each ; 
Carpenter, Boatswain and Gunner four Shares each. Boat- 
swain's Mates two and one half Shares each. The residue to 
be divided among the Company in equal Shares excepting 



JAMES DE WOLF 217 

Landsmen or raw hands who draw one and one half Shares 
each, and boys who draw one Share each. Ten Shares to 
be reserved to the order of the Captain to be distributed by 
him to such as he may deem deserving among the Vessel's 
Company. 

The Yankee was immediately and immensely successful. 
In this respect she was unlike the other privateers of the 
*'War of 1812." It is a mistake to suppose that the busi- 
ness of privateering was, as a rule, a successful one. Most 
of the vessels engaged in it barely paid their expenses. To 
very many the cruise resulted only in a loss. Much de- 
pended on the sailing qualities of the ship, and the way in 
which she was handled; but much more depended upon 
sheer luck. The privateers, as a rule, did an enormous 
amount of damage to the shipping of the enemy without 
reaping any corresponding advantage themselves. The 
Yankee, however, not only inflicted enormous damage upon 
the enemy but was also enormously profitable to her owners. 

Her officers on her first cruise were Oliver Wilson,* 
captain, and Manly Sweet, James Usher, 2d, and Thomas 
H. Russell, lieutenants. She carried a crew of 115 men 
(they must have been packed like sardines), and made for 
the coast of Nova Scotia. One of her first prizes was the 
Royal Bounty, a full rigged ship of 659 tons (about four 
times the size of the Yankee, but manned by a crew of only 
25 men). The Bounty was taken after a running fight in 
which three Americans were wounded, while two of the 
English were killed and seven wounded. The boldness of 
Captain Wilson in attacking a vessel so much larger than 
his own was remarkable, but the end justified his conduct. 
As a rule the privateers avoided engagements with ships 

* Captain Wilson was only twenty-six years old. 



2i8 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

of superior size, remembering that, primarily, their object 
was not to fight battles for the glory of the flag, but to 
capture ships for their own pecuniary advantage. They 
could and did fight bravely and successfully upon occasion, 
but, ordinarily, deemed it wiser to show their heels to a 
superior foe. Nine other prizes were taken on the first 
cruise of less than three months, the most valuable of which 
was the ship Francis whose cargo netted more than $200,000 
to her captors. That first cruise paid for the brigantine 
several times over, and resulted in a dividend of more than 
$700 a share. 

Small wonder then that the Bristol sailors almost fought 
for a place on her decks for her second cruise, when she 
sailed again from the harbor on the fifteenth of October. 
The journal of that second cruise is hereinafter published 
in full. Captain Wilson's instructions this time were to 
scour the west coast of Africa and to come home in the 
track of vessels sailing to Europe from Brazil and the West 
Indies. One hundred and fifteen days after the Yankee 
had sailed out from the harbor two boys were "shinning 
up" the masts of two vessels tied up at a wharf, in the 
good old Bristol way already described (p. 30). As the 
victor in the contest placed his cap upon the cap of the top- 
mast he saw something which caused him, leaving his cap 
where it was, to slide down mast and shroud regardless of 
damage to trousers and hands, and to go running up the 
street crying out at the top of his voice, "The Yankee is 
coming up the Bay with a prize on each side of her." It 
was even so. The prizes were the Shannon, a fine brig of 
200 tons, and the letter of marque schooner Alder. The 
dividend for each share in the second cruise was $338.40. 

On May 10, 181 3, the brigantine was commissioned for 



JAMES DE WOLF 219 

her third cruise. EHsha Snow was her Captain. The 
Lieutenants were Thomas Jones, Samuel Barton and George 
A. Bruce. British war vessels were swarming along the 
coast. Captain Snow learned that a frigate and a fourteen- 
gun brig were waiting for him near Block Island. Choosing 
his time with care he sailed from Newport on May 20 and 
steered joyfully for British waters. His instructions were 
to "take enough prizes to make up a handsome cruise, cal- 
culating one-half the prizes to be retaken." Three months 
later he was again lying at anchor in Bristol harbor. Seven 
prizes were taken on this cruise but most of them were re- 
captured. The most important of them was the "snow" 
Thames, of 312 tons burden, with 287 bales of cotton on 
board. Vessel and cargo were valued at $110,000. The 
prize money for each share was $173.54. 

The fourth cruise was almost a failure. A new set of 
officers was on board. They were Thomas Jones, captain, 
and Thomas Milton, George Eddy and Sampson Gullifer, 
lieutenants. All told there were 109 persons on the ship. 
Among the crew we still see the names of Jack Jibsheet and 
Cuffee Cockroach enumerated as cabin boys. They seem 
to have been steadily attached to the vessel. Almost all 
the names of the ship's crew were British. It is very likely, 
however, that the two cabin boys, notwithstanding their 
pure Anglo-Saxon names, may have been of African lin- 
eage. The instructions this time were to cruise "on the 
track of homeward bound vessels near the Grand Banks." 
Prizes were to make for Nantucket Shoals and to get into 
the first port on the Vineyard Sound, avoiding Boston. 
But two prizes reached port, and the dividend for each 
share was only $17.29. 

There was no competition for berths on the fifth cruise. 



220 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Indeed, some of the sailors swam ashore before the pri- 
vateer left the harbor of Bristol.^ All the probabilities 
seemed to point rather to a prison in England than a profit 
in America. Elisha Snow was again in command. His 
Lieutenants were Samuel Barton, John Smith and Francis 
Elliott. Thomas Jones, the captain of the voyage before, 
was second captain. The cruise was not finished as planned 
because the Yankee was driven into New Bedford by an 
English man-of-war and the crew deserted almost to a man. 
Four prizes only were taken, three of which were of no 
value whatever. But the fourth reached Portland, Maine, 
in safety. She was a full rigged ship, the San Jose Indi- 
ano,^ and, with her cargo, sold for more than half a million 

^ It is reported that these unfortunates were frequently asked "how 
they liked the swimming" by those of the crew who had remained for 
the capture of the San Jose Indiano, and that rude boys, for almost 
a generation, continued to ask the same question, always of course 
at a respectful distance. 

6 The San Jose Indiano was a teak built East Indiaman. How old 
she was at the time of her capture we do not know, but she was 
destined to a long life under the American flag. As far as sea- 
worthiness was concerned she might have continued to plow the seas 
until the time of our Civil War — then to end her days with the other 
whaleships from New Bedford and elsewhere that were sunk to block 
the entrance to the harbor of Charleston, S. C. Mr. De Wolf renamed 
her the General Jackson and used her for a time in the general 
carrying trade. Later when the whale fishery became popular with 
the people of the towns on Narragansett Bay she received a whaler's 
outfit and sailed for years with the Bristol whaling fleet. The Mex- 
ican War having broken out, she was sold, in 1846 or thereabout, to 
the United States Government, being by her construction specially 
adapted for work in tropical waters. When a Government survey 
was made, preliminary to her sale, the carpenters who attempted to 
cut holes in her sides expended many tools, and much profanity, before 
they could make any impression upon her planks. Her teak timbers, 
combined with the cement between their joints, for a time defied all 
their efforts, both wood and cement having become almost as hard 



JAMES DE WOLF 221 

dollars. The voyage that had been undertaken with the 
greatest hesitation was the most profitable of all. The two 
gentlemen of color, Jibsheet and Cockroach, received re- 
spectively $738.19 and $1,121.88 as their dividends. Cap- 
tain Snow's "lay" was $15,789.69, and the owners realized 
$223,313.10. It was the luckiest cruise made by any pri- 
vateer during the war. Naturally resulted a season of 
great hilarity in the home port. Imagine the effect upon 
a little town of less than 3,000 inhabitants today if a million 
dollars were suddenly and unexpectedly poured into the 
pockets of its people! Notwithstanding the immense risks 
there were volunteers enough for the sixth cruise — which 
was to be the last one. The sailing orders for this cruise 
were issued October i, 1814. 

Captain Snow had apparently decided to let well enough 
alone, for William C. Jenckes was the new captain. The 
second captain was Benjamin K. Churchill, "a fellow of in- 
finite humor" as we shall presently see, A. B. Hethering- 
ton, Henry Wardwell and Samuel Grafton were the lieu- 
tenants. The times had become most strenuous as may 
be judged from this section of the sailing directions : "You 
must depend principally upon the goods you take on board 

as stone. After she had lain for some months at anchor off Vera 
Cruz, the Government had no further need for her and therefore sold 
her to a third American owner. To him she did not prove profitable,' 
and it is said that an attempt to set her on fire in order to secure her 
insurance was made. The staunch old ship simply refused to burn. 
Again she was sold for a very small sum. Then, so the story goes, 
a more scientific and successful attempt to transfer her to the under- 
writers was made. She was loaded with a cargo of lime, and then 
holes having been skilfully made in her hull, doubtless with more 
profanity, she was cleared for a southern port. Somewhere in the 
waters about the Florida peninsula she was run upon a reef, and the 
ocean combined with the lime to do the rest. 



222 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

to make your cruise, as the prizes you man will be very 
uncertain." In the private instructions issued to Captain 
Jenckes special attention was paid to the definition of "neu- 
tral" property. The American privateers had inflicted so 
much damage upon English shipping that the merchants 
of England had been forced to conceal their property under 
neutral flags. The captain of the Yankee was instructed 
to send in a neutral if he had destroyed any papers, or if 
he had fired upon him. 'Tf any one of a House shipping 
property resides in England, or in an English colony, that 
share of the shipment is a good prize of war. Notwith- 
standing he may have been born a neutral, and lived in a 
neutral country all his life; if he is now domiciled in the 
enemy's country, it is sufficient to condemn his property." 
The cruise lasted 105 days. Five prizes were taken and 
reported to the owners in a letter written by Second Captain 
Churchill. Only one of these brought money to their cap- 
tors. This was the brig Courtney, which with its cargo 
sold for $70,000. One was the General Wellesley, an East 
Indian teak built ship of 600 tons, in which its captors at 
first thought they saw a second San Jose Indiano. Her 
value was estimated at upward of $200,000. She was 
ordered to make for the port of Charleston, S. C, but, with 
two of her prize crew and 52 of her original crew of Las- 
cars, was lost on Charleston Bar. Captain Churchill ended 
his letter as follows : — "P. S. I have lost one of my legs 
on this cruise." 

Less than three years was the Yankee upon the seas as 
a private armed vessel of war. In those years she cap- 
tured British property of the value of more than five mil- 
lion dollars. She sent into the town of Bristol a million 
dollars as the profit from her six cruises. No other pri- 



JAMES DE WOLF 223 

vateer sailing from an American port ever established such 
a record. 

In the year 181 2 when to most men the shipping business 
seemed likely to continue to be the most prominent in the 
country Mr. De Wolf foresaw the immense development 
of manufacturing industries. In that year he built in the 
town of Coventry, R. I., a site chosen because of its water 
power, a cotton factory, the Arkwright Mills. These he 
continued to own and direct until his death. As has been 
already stated he placed some of his vessels in the whale 
fishery, continuing in that business only as long as his ships 
made profitable voyages. He seemed to judge unerringly 
concerning business possibilities. All this time he was 
cultivating the arable portion of the nearly one thousand 
acres of land which he owned in and near Bristol. He 
built for himself a stately mansion, on a little hill always 
spoken of by Bristol people as "The Mount," in which his 
descendants continued to reside until its destruction by fire 
a few years ago. 

Inevitably he came to take a leading part in political 
matters. For almost thirty years he represented his native 
town in the Rhode Island Legislature, laying aside the gavel 
of the Speaker of that body in 1821 to become a member 
of the United States Senate. As a Senator his immense 
business experience made him the recognized authority in 
commercial matters. He was a strong "protectionist" and 
was the first in the Senate to propose the "drawback" sys- 
tem which has since been so largely adopted in the United 
States and elsewhere. He was one of the few Senators, 
perhaps the only one from New England, who were accus- 
tomed to ride to Washington in their own coaches. Hap- 
pily this relic of the luxury of a hundred years ago still 



224 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

remains in the possession of a descendant of Mark Anthony 
De Wolf, Colonel Samuel Pomeroy Colt of Bristol. Mr, 
De Wolf's life at Washington was not pleasing to him. 
The progress of Congressional legislation was too slow for 
his active mind, and his constantly increasing business de- 
manded all of his attention. He therefore resigned from 
the United States Senate long before his term expired and 
joyfully resumed his old position as a representative of 
Bristol in the Legislature of Rhode Island. 

James De Wolf died at the residence of one of his daugh- 
ters in New York City, December 21, 1837. The tidings 
of his death crushed the town in which he was born. No 
man had ever done so much for Bristol as he. He had 
always made its welfare his own, had loyally advocated 
every scheme for its advancement, had gladly contributed 
to every worthy project put forward by its people. When 
he died there was no one to take his place. Never was any 
Bristolian more sincerely or more deeply mourned. 



2_JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 

JOURNAL OF THE PRIVATE ARMED BRIGANTINE 

YANKEE, OLIVER WILSON COMMANDER 

COMMENCED ON THE I5TH OCTOBER, l8l2. 

(Kept by Noah Jones, Captain's Clerk). 

Thursday, 15th October, 181 2. 

At 4 p. m. Capt. Wilson, accompanied by his Lieutenants, 
Master, Surgeon and Clerk, came on board. All hands were 
piped to muster, and on inspection the Commander found 
his crew consisted of ninety-five as prime fellows as ever 
went to sea. 

N. B. The Yankee is completely equipped with arms, 
ammunition, provisions and other necessary articles for a 
six months cruise. She mounts 14 guns at present — 8 
twelve pound carronades, 4 long sixes, and two long fours 
— has one long double-fortified twelve pounder (a beauti- 
ful piece) in her hold, to be hereafter mounted, — with 60 
stand of arms and a large quantity of pistols, cutlashes 
and boarding pikes. 

Friday, i6th October 18 12 
The Commander quartered the officers and seamen at 
their several stations in time of action, regulated the Messes, 
fixed the allowance of provisions, water, etc., ordered a 
regular Bill of Fare, and pointed out to every officer and 
man his duty on board the Yankee. At 9 a. m. Lieutenant 
Hardiman of the Army came on board to enquire for a 

225 



226 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

deserter. Capt. Wilson immediately ordered the Boat- 
swain's Mate to pipe all hands on deck and requested Lieu- 
tenant Hardiman to examine them man by man, to discover 
his deserter. He did so without success. 

At 2 p. m. the wind coming suddenly round to the N. W. 
Captain Wilson gave orders to loose the foretopsail, send 
up the foretop-gallant yard, fire a gun, and set the signals 
for sailing. At 4 the wind shifted to the N. E. — dark and 
cloudy with appearance of bad weather. At 5 clewed up 
the foietopsail and got the barge in upon deck. 

Saturday, 17th October 181 2 
At daylight sailing orders were issued by the Commander. 
Loosed square foresail, foretopsail and mainsail, fired gun, 
and set our colours. At 6 a. m. unmoored and got under- 
way; when abeam of the Private Armed Schooner Tom of 
Baltimore, Thomas Wilson Commander, the officers and 
company of the Yankee gave them three cheers which was 
immediately returned. Fired a salute of three guns as we 
passed Fort Walcott. Wind N. N. W. fair weather and 
extremely pleasant. At 7 passed R. L Light. At ^ past 7 
gibed ship to the S. S. E. — set all drawing sails — consider- 
able swell. At ^ past 9 a. m. Block Island bore west, dis- 
tant 5 leagues; — from which we take our departure on our 
cruise. At meridian discovered a sail at a great distance — 
could not distinguish what she was. Lat. 40° 56', 

I St Day — Sunday i8th October 181 2 
First part light winds and hazy weather. 2 p. m. dis- 
covered a schooner ahead standing to the westward. At 
3 saw a large ship, also standing to the westward. At 4 
p. m. piped all hands to quarters and exercised the seamen 
and marines at the great guns and small arms. The Com- 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 227 

mander found them well disciplined and fit for immediate 
service. 5 a. m. discovered a sail 2 points on the lee bow. 
Took in the studding sails on the stabbord side and hauled 
up to the eastward. 6.30 a. m. saw another sail right ahead ; 
took in larboard studdingsails and royal, and brought her 
close upon the wind — heading N. E. At 9 a. m. having lost 
sight of the sail kept away to the S. E. and set studding 
sails. Latter part gentle breezes and hazy weather. At 
meridian no sail in sight. Course S. E. b S. Lat. Obs. 

39°5i'- 

(For several days the Journal chronicles mainly the condition of the 
weather and the necessary changes in the sails. The fact was quickly 
established that the vessel was "perfectly staunch and strong and a 
most excellent sea boat." The brigantine was always a most remark- 
able sailor. She answered the helm readily and scudded over the 
waves while other vessels were still courting the capricious winds. 
After the war, when she was simply a merchant vessel plying between 
Bristol and the Island of Cuba, she made some runs between the Moro 
and Block Island light in shorter time than that scheduled for the 
regular trips of the steamship lines. With a man o' war's crew to 
handle her, her speed must have been marvellous. Only the more im- 
portant portions of the Journal will henceforth be printed. The total 
number of persons on board when the "Muster Roll" was called on 
the second day was one hundred. — Ed.) 

2d Day — Monday October 19th 
The log ends with the following paragraph. "The Sur- 
geon has been much indisposed with seasickness since he 
left Newport. He finds the best remedy to be sleep. There 
is only one person (John Briggs) with a sore thumb on 
the Surgeon's list. 

(Apparently an epidemic of sore thumbs had been feared. — Ed.) 

3d Day — Tuesday October 20th 
.... 7 p. m. Shipped a heavy sea abaft the beam which 
stove in all three of the Arm Chests, and capsized the mus- 



228 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

quets, bayonets, cutlashes, pistols, armourer's tools etc. into 
the lee scuppers. The Carpenter repaired the damage as 
soon as possible and replaced the arms. . . . No sail in 
sight. . . . The Surgeon still indisposed. John Briggs and 
the Cook on the Doctor's list. Lat. Obs. 36° 15'. 

4th Day — Wednesday October 21st 
.... The officers of Marines, Armourer and his mates 
busy in cleaning arms from the rust contracted during the 
bad weather, oiling them, and stowing them in the arm- 
chests in good order. John Briggs, Cyrus Simmons and 
Ned Ingraham on the Doctor's list. 

5th Day — Thursday October 22d 
.... At 4 p. m. all hands piped to quarters. The Com- 
mander again pointed out to every man his station; ap- 
pointed Lieutenants Barton and Jones to lead the ist and 
2d Divisions of Boarders, and distributed the swords, cut- 
lashes and pistols among the seamen. The officers then 
exercised the seamen and marines at the great guns and 
small arms, going through the usual manouvres during an 
engagement. After which all hands were summoned aft 
and the Commander read over certain Instructions regu- 
lating, under severe penalties, the conduct of the officers 
and crew, upon all occasions, particularly in time of action, 
or when on board an enemy's vessel. . . . The Surgeon 
still indisposed and ate no dinner. Briggs, Simmons, Ingra- 
ham and Angell on the Doctor's list with trifling complaints. 
Lat. Obs. 35°24^ 

(From this time forward Lieut. Barton is very much in the fore- 
ground. He was a near relative of Col. Barton of "The Rhode Island 
Line," who in the Revolutionary War had distinguished himself by 
his daring capture of the British General Prescott within the Enemy's 
lines. It goes without saying, therefore, that he was quite devoid of 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 229 

fear. In after life he still followed the sea even though he had be- 
come extremely corpulent and had acquired an abdominal development 
which compelled universal attention if not admiration. Once he was 
chased by a French Privateer. A shot which happened to strike the 
ship's cat scattered her entrails all over the deck. The cabin boy cast 
a startled glance at the dead cat, then looked at his Captain and was 
immediately doubled up with laughter. "Well," said the Captain, "what 
are you laughing about now?" "Nothing," said the boy, "only I was 
thinking what an awful mess there would be if one of those balls 
should strike you in the belly." — Ed.) 

6th Day Friday October 23d 
.... At 6 a. m. the man at the mast head called out a 
sail bearing N. b E. distant about two leagues. 6.30 a. m. 
piped all hands to quarters, loosed the guns, and cleared for 
action. 7.20 a. m. fired a gun without shot, upon which the 
sail hove to. ... At 8 a. m. ran under the lee of a large 
copper-bottomed American ship and sent the barge on board. 
Found her to be the Ariadne of Boston, Captain Bartlett 
Holmes, from Alexandria bound to Cadiz with a full cargo 
of flour, 17 days out. Capt. Holmes informed us that on 
the nth inst. he was boarded by an officer from the United 
States, Commodore Decatur. (The President, Congress 
and Argtis were in company standing to the eastward.) 
The Ariadne's crew having mutinied Capt. Holmes re- 
quested Com. Decatur to take four of the ringleaders on 
board the frigate, which he did accordingly. Capt. H. men- 
tioned that his ship had sprung a leak, and being short 
handed, with a disorderly mutinous crew, he was bound 
home again in distress. The Commander put a letter on 
board, directed to the owners, informing them of the good 
health and spirits of the crew, and our situation in Lat. 
25° N. and Long. 56° W. . . . 

7th Day Saturday 24th Oct. 
.... Lat. 36°9' . . . 



230 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

8th Day Sunday 25th Oct. 
.... Briggs, Simmons, Lewis and Angell on the Sur- 
geon's Hst with Hght complaints, Lat. Obs. 35° 15'. Long, 
pr, kmar Obs. at 12 Meridian 53 °3'. 

9th Day Monday 26th Oct. 
Fair weather with strong gales from the westward. 
Scudding before the wind under square-foresail, fore top- 
sail and foretopmast staysail. At 5 p. m. discovered from 
the deck (owing to the negligence of the man at the fore- 
top) two large sail in our wake, distant about three leagues, 
standing after us with their topgallant sails up. Imme- 
diately hauled up to the S. E. and set square-foresail, single- 
reefed mainsail and fore and aft foresail The sails astern 
frequently luffed up and yawned off and when we saw them 
last stood to the N. E. , . . Frequent squalls with rain and 
a tremendous sea. Course S. E. b E. under three-reefed 
mainsail close-reefed square-foresail, and double-reefed 
foretopsail, with the foretopmast-staysail. Same persons 
on the Surgeon's list. Shipped a great deal of water upon 
deck, the comins of the sea frequently coming on board and 
penetrating every part of the vessel. Lat. 34°4o'. 

loth Day Tuesday 27th Oct. 
.... No sail in sight and nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 
33°26''. N. B. It is something singular that since we left 
port we have had only one pleasant day. There has been 
a continual succession of gales of wind from all parts of 
the compass, attended with torrents of rain, squalls, whirl- 
winds, thunder and lightning, and a tremendous sea fre- 
quently breaking on board and occasioning considerable 
damage; carrying away several spars and staving the arm- 
chests. Indeed it may be said that our vessel has sailed 
thus far under but not over the Atlantic Ocean. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 231 

nth Day Wednesday 28th Oct. 
. . . . Middle and latter part of the day stiff gales with 
a high sea. Shipped a great deal of water upon deck. Lat. 
Obs. 32°5'. 

I2th Day Thursday 29th Oct. 
During these 24 hours strong gales with frequent squalls 
of wind and rain, and a very high sea frequently breaking 
on board. Lat. Obs. 30°27'. Lunar Obs. at 23 M. past 
Meridian 4i°55'4i''. Cyrus Simmons, John Briggs, Amos 
A. Allen, James Angell, Ebenezer Byrum and William Red- 
ding on the Surgeon's list. 

13th Day Friday 30th Oct. 
(A delightful change.) At meridian the weather began 
to moderate, i p. m. fair weather with a clear horizon and 
the sea going down. Let all the reefs out of the mainsail 
and square-foresail, sent up maintopmast, rigged out the 
jib-boom and set the jib. At 9 p. m. took a single reef in 
the fore-topsail and mainsail. During the night fresh 
breezes and clear weather. Lat. Obs. 28°43^ Long, per 
Lunar Obs. at 18 m. past 10 — 40°! i'. 

14th Day Saturday 31st Oct. 
Lat. 29° N. & Long. 40°2o' W. At 6 a. m. Discovered 
a sail from the masthead at a great distance bearing W. 
S. W. Light breezes from the north inclining to a calm. 
Piped all hands upon deck, set all drawing sails, in chase 
and got out the sweeps. 9 a. m. found we came up rapidly 
with the chase which appeared to be a brig standing to the 
S. W. At meridian spoke the Portuguese Brig Henriettc, 
Capt. Jenkins, from Madeira, 18 days out, in ballast, bound 
to Philadelphia. Capt. Jenkins informed us that on the 



232 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

2 1st he spoke an American ship and brig bound home; on 
the 22d he was boarded by an officer from a British Frigate. 
Captain Jenkins left at Maderia several American vessels 
bound home with full cargoes ; also two English ships load- 
ing with wine for the West Indies. Shortly before Capt. 
Jenkins left Maderia an English brig loaded with wine 
sailed for the West Indies, likewise three English East 
Indiamen with full cargoes, under the convoy of a British 
Frigate as far as Palmas. There were no King's vessels 
at Madeira. An American Privateer, owned at New Or- 
leans, was cruising off Madeira and had taken several 
prizes ! ! Capt. Jenkins being short of bread our Commander 
supplied him with this necessary article, and received in re- 
turn some vinegar, fish and fruit. Permitted the Henriette 
to proceed. . . . Lat. Obs. 27° 40'. (Wrote a letter to the 
Owners by the Henriette, Capt. Jenkins, informing them 
of our situation and of the good health of our Officers and 
Company, ) 

15th Day Sunday ist Nov. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 27° 14' N. Long, 
38°28' W. 

1 6th Day Monday 2d Nov. 
At 4 p. m. piped all hands to quarters and the Officers 
examined them man by man, to discover whether they were 
neat and clean in their persons and dress — according to the 
Commander's instructions — to prevent fevers and the scur- 
vey during a long cruise. The crew were then summoned 
aft, and the Captain's Clerk read the General Instructions 
to the Officers and Company, regulating their conduct upon 
all occasions during the cruise. From 8 a. m. till 4 p. m. 
the Watches employed about ship's duty ; the Carpenter and 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 233 

his Mates busy about making new arm-chests ; sail-makers 
in repairing ring-tale; Officers of Marines and Armorer 
in cleaning arms, and numbering muskets and cartridge 
boxes, and seamen and marines in mending rigging, drying 
sails, and other necessary duty. . . . The Surgeon is quite 
indisposed with the headache, loss of appetite and low 
spirits. Lat. Obs. 26° 16'. 

17th Day Tuesday 3d Nov. 
.... The watch only employed on ship's duty. Samuel 
Boynton and Ned Ingraham on the Surgeon's list. Lat. 
Obs. 25°3'. 

1 8th Day Wednesday 4th Nov. 
.... Several tropic birds in sight. . . . The Prize-Master, 
Quartermaster's Mates, inferior officers and nearly all hands 
busy in repairing the nettings, bulwarks and side-cloths. 
. . . Lat. Obs. 23°44'' (The Commander issued particular 
written instructions to his Officers, prescribing their respec- 
tive duties upon all occasions during the cruise. These 
instructions were drawn according to the customs and 
usages of the British and American navies.) 

19th Day Thursday 5th Nov. 
At sunrise discovered a sail bearing 2 points on the lar- 
board bow. Jibed ship to the E. N. E. and set all drawing 
sails in chase. At 8 a. m. found the strange vessel to be a 
brig with her starboard tacks on board, standing to the west- 
ward. 9 a. m. fired a gun to windward, upon which the 
sail luffed up and showed Spanish colours, and then bore 
down to us. Took in all the light sails and then hove to. 
At 10 a. ra. the sail came under our lee and we sent our 
barge on board. Found her to be the Spanish Scm Jose, 
alias El Pajaro, Captain Miguel Burgas, from Cadiz, 20 



234 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

days out, with a full cargo of red wines, aguadiente, fruit, 
sweet oil, soaps, olives, stationary, (sic) musical instru- 
ments and ladies' veils. When two days out Capt. Burgas 
saw a Spanish schooner standing for the Canaries. The 
San Jose left at Cadiz several American vessels bound to 
sea under Spanish colours ; also several English men of war, 
and transports. Capt. Burgas informed us that on the 25th 
of August the French army raised the siege of Cadiz, and 
retreated with great expedition, having previously destroyed 
their artillery. It was reported at Cadiz that there had 
been several skirmishes between the French and Russian 
armies but no decisive battle. Having examined the papers 
of the San Jose, and found the vessel and cargo to be bona 
fide Spanish property, permitted her to proceed on her voy- 
age. . . . Lat. Obs. 22° 49'. Long. D. R. 26° 5 7' San Jose 
Long. 25 d. Cadiz. Surgeon's list. James Angell, Cyrus 
Simmons, John Briggs, Samuel Boynton, Joseph Lewis and 
John Koster. 

20th Day Friday 6th Nov. 
At I p. m. being in Lat. 22^49', the Crew of the Yankee 
preparing to celebrate Old Neptune's ceremonies on passing 
' the Tropics. Accordingly the old Sea God, attended by 
his Lady, barbers and constables, dressed in the most fan- 
tastic manner, with painted faces, and swabs upon their 
heads, hailed our brig, came on board, were received with 
a salute and three cheers, demanded of Captain Wilson 
whether he had any of his sons on board, and welcomed 
the Yankee into his dominions. On being answered in the 
affirmative he asked permission to initiate the marines and 
raw hands into the usual mysteries on such occasions. He 
then examined the Surgeon and being convinced that he 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 235 

came to sea to take care of his children when they were 
sick, he excused him from being shaved with an iron hoop, 
and from passing through the other disagreeable parts of 
the ceiemony. After which Neptune and his companions 
went forward and regularly initiated about one fourth of 
our crew into all the curious forms requisite to make them 
true sons of the ocean. The several candidates for a sea- 
man's character were properly painted, slushed, shaved, 
ducked, questioned and sworn. Their singular questions 
and answers excited infinite laughter and merriment. After 
the ceremony concluded, the Commander, Officers and 
whole crew joined in a Ducking match, which aided in 
great good humour and pleasantry. The remainder of the 
day and evening were devoted to fencing, boxing, wrestling, 
singing, drinking, laughing, and every species of mirth and 
fun. Lat. Obs. 2i°58'. 

2 1st Day Saturday 7th Nov. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . . . Same persons on Sur- 
geon's list. Lat. Obs. 2i°34'. 

22d Day Sunday 8th Nov. 
.... Cleaned out the cabin and got all the baggage and 
trunks on deck. Examined the Officers and crew, man by 
man, and found them neat and clean. At 10 a. m. the 
Commander and Officers attended prayers in the cabin. The 
Marines employed in singing psalms and the sailors in wash- 
ing and mending their clothes. Lat. Obs. 21° 16'. Lunar 
Obs. at 5-20 was 31° 17'. Same persons on the Surgeon's 
list. 

23d Day Monday 9th Nov. 
.... James Angell, Cyrus Simmons, John Briggs, Samuel 
Boynton, Joseph Lewis, John Koster and James Crawford 



236 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

on the Surgeon's list with various complaints — none dan- 
gerous. Lat. 20°4^ A singular circumstance occurred to 
day. On opening a dolphin which one of the Prize-Masters 
caught we found a pistol ball in him which had been dis- 
charged about an hour before. 

24th Day Tuesday loth Nov. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 20° 19'. 

25th Day Wednesday nth Nov. 
. . . . At 10 a. m. all hands were exercised In firing with 
the musket at a target. Found most of the crew to be ex- 
cellent marksmen, . . , Observed the water to be consider- 
ably colored. Sounded with 100 fathoms. No bottom. 
Lat. Obs. 1 9° 11'. Same persons on Surgeon's list; none 
incapable of duty. 

26th Day Thursday 12th Nov. 
.... At 4 p. m. the Marines trained to the Manual Exer- 
cise; also to several new manouvres a la mode de Francais. 
The Boarders amuse themselves with fencing and the rest 
of the crew act as spectators. . . . Lat. Obs. 18° 19'. Long, 
per Lunar Obs. at 2 p. m. 28°53'3o". Crawford and Koster 
struck off the Surgeon's list. The rest recovering fast. 

27th Day Friday 13th Nov. 
.... At 4 p. m. the Commander exercised the Officers,^ — 
and the Captain of Marines his men and the Boarders, — 
to the use of the musket according to the French system 
of loading and firing without using the ramrod. ... At 
1/2 past II a. m. Captain Wilson called out "Land ho ! right 
ahead!!" ... At meridian found the land to be, by an 
observation of the sun, the Island of St. Anthony, one of 
the Cape de Verds, situated in Lat. N. i7°2o' and 24^59' W. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 237 

Long. Lat. Obs. 17° 15'. The island bore when first we 
made it S. E. b E. — distant about 5 miles. Cyrus Simmons, 
James Angell, James Thomas, Watson Morris, Aaron Ma- 
son, Samuel Boynton and Ned Ingraham on the Surgeon's 
list; none incapable of duty. On examination the Com- 
mander finds Master Snow's lunar observations to be very 
correct, and that the dead reckoning could not be depended 
on. THUS in 27 days we have run a distance of 3,500 
miles, notwithstanding occasional head winds and a great 
deal of light calm weather. Nothing very remarkable oc- 
curred during our passage. 

28th Day Saturday 14th Nov. 
(Variable winds and frequent changing of sails. Strong 
gales and heavy squalls). No land in sight. Lat. Obs. 

l6°20'. 

29th Day Sunday 15th Nov. 
(Sighted several of the Cape Verde Islands) Hazy 
weather and frequent squalls. Made and took in sail occa- 
sionally. Lat Obs. i6°2i'. 

30th Day Monday 15th [sic] Nov. 
Fresh breezes and cloudy weather. At 4 p. m. came to 
in a wide bay at the south end of the Island of St. Nicholas ; 
out with the barge and the Commander, Surgeon and Cap- 
tain of Marines went on shore unarmed. Found the Island 
to be mountainous, barren and uncultivated. Saw only a 
few small huts near the shore inhabited by blacks who led us 
to a well of water, brackish and sulphurous. They told us 
we could fill only three barrels a day, and that there was 
no anchorage except within cable length of this iron bound 
coast. We saw the wreck of a large armed ship which 
was cast away there a short time before. They informed 



238 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

us there was a town or village two leagues distant, situated 
in a fine valley producing corn, grapes, fruits, etc., where 
the Governor resided, but that wood and provisions were 
very dear. Capt. Wilson therefore concluded it would not 
be advisable to anchor there, purchased a few pigs, returned 
on board, and set sail with a fair wind for the Island of 
St. Jago. ... At meridian having run down the west side 
of the Isle of May, and looked into the port where there 
were only two small Portuguese boats, we wore ship and 
stood over for St. Jago. The Isle of May appears more fer- 
tile than any of the Cape de Verdes we have seen yet. Hab- 
itations are scattered over every part of the Island and salt 
works appear along the beach. There is a small town com- 
posed of 15 or 20 houses at the south end of the Island 
but no fortifications that we could discover. Isle of May 
Lat. S. W. pt. 15 °4' N. Long. 22^46' W. Joseph Antony, 
Henry Mitchell, and George Schoonerson added to the Sur- 
geon's list. 

31st Day Tuesday 17th Nov. 
The Officers and Company feasted most sumptuously on 
the pigs they bought at St. Nicholas. At i p. m. came to 
anchor in the harbour of Port Praya, Island of St. Jago. 
We ran from the Isle of May to that place in i^ hours, 
a distance of 30 miles, having a fine breeze from the N, N. E. 
and all sails set. At 2 p. m. the Commander, attended by 
his Surgeon and Clerk, went on shore. He reported himself 
to the Governor-General and Intendant as the Armed Amer- 
ican Brig Yankee, and requested permission to obtain a 
supply of water, wood and fresh provisions. This per- 
mission was immediately granted, and the Governor ex- 
pressed much satisfaction, and some degree of surprise, at 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 239 

seeing an American armed vessel in this distant part of the 
world. He inquired very particularly concerning the events 
of the war between America and England, and regretted 
that this circumstance had deprived these islands of the 
American commerce. He said they were in great want of 
flour, bread, rice, etc., and offered a supply of every article 
our vessel wanted in return for those articles. He informed 
us no English vessel had touched at this island for some 
weeks past, but that there was an old British brig on the 
south side of St. Anthony loading with salt for the Brazils. 
The Governor further mentioned that the Private Armed 
American Ship called the Alfred ^ Captain Williams, touched 
at this island a short time since and obtained a supply of 
water and provisions. The Alfred had taken and manned 
two valuable prizes, and was then bound on a long cruise. 
On taking leave the General told Capt. Wilson that he 
should expect the customary salute which would be re- 
turned. 6 p. m. the barge returned on board. At 8 a. m. 
we fired a regular United States salute of 17 guns which 
was immediately returned by an equal number from the 
town. Part of the Officers and men employed in filling 
water and the remainder about ship's duty. 

32d Day Wednesday i8th Nov. 
4 p. m. got all our water on board. 8 a. m. The Intendant- 
General, Dr. Madina, came on board with the Governor- 
General's compliments on our arrival. He remained and 
took breakfast with us, and appeared pleased with the ap- 
pearance of the Yankee. 9 a. m. Capt. Wilson went on 
shore with part of the crew and such articles as he had 
agreed to exchange for fresh provisions. On examining 
the Intendant's book of entries find that two English brigs 



240 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

from London, bound to the Cape of Good Hope, touched 
here for water on the 29th ult. and also the Sloop of War 
Morjiana, Capt. Georges, with despatches for the same 
place. The Officers and Company have caught a great quan- 
tity of fish of different kinds since we came to anchor. . . . 
William Redding and Preserved Atwood added to the Sur- 
geon's list. 

33d Day Thursday 19th Nov. 
First part of these 24 hours got all our wood and fresh 
stock on board. The Commander and several of his Officers 
dined with the Intendant. At 5^ past 9 p. m. they returned 
on board. Immediately got under way with a fresh breeze. 
. . . N. B. The harbour of Port Praya is spacious, secure 
and of easy entrance, with good anchorage in 10 fathoms 
water. The town, also called Praya, is situated on the top 
of a mountain, or rock, and encloses an extensive plain, the 
houses forming nearly a circle. There is a small stone 
church and four other decent buildings. Both the port and 
town are well fortified, mounting at least 70 pieces of can- 
non. The garrison however is most miserable, being com- 
posed entirely of blacks without discipline, arms, or even 
decent clothing. It is a singular fact that most of their 
musquets are without locks. We have not the least hesita- 
tion in saying that with thirty men we might have surprised 
and taken the town. The officers of the Yankee feel much 
gratified with the politeness and attentions they received 
from the Governor General Don Antonine Cortine Del 
Ancastra, and from the Intendant De Madina. They have 
obtained a sufficient supply of wood and water for at least 
two months, and as much live stock and fruits as they 
wished to take on board. These articles were purchased 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 241 

at a small expense. Port Praya Lat, 14° 52'' N. Long. 
23° 30" W. Same persons on the Surgeon's list. 

34th Day Friday 20th Nov. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. i4°37'. 

35th Day Saturday 21st Nov. 
.... No sail or land in sight. Lat. Obs. 14°22\ 

36th Day Sunday 22d Nov. 
(Cape Verds again in sight). Lat. Obs. I4°26'' Sur- 
geon's list — James Thomas, Lemuel Baker, George Gunner- 
son, John Briggs, Lyman Peck, Asa Switchell, William 
Redding, Ned Ingraham, Joseph Lewis, James Angell and 
Gibsheet. None disabled from duty but Redding. 

37th Day Monday 23d Nov. 
y2 past meridian the Island of Goree hove in sight dis- 
tant about 2 leagues to windward, i p. m. saw a schooner 
under full sail standing out of Goree harbour towards us. 
Piped all hands to quarters. 2 p. m. the schooner tacked 
to windward; immediately tacked ship and set all sail in 
chase. At 3 passed within 5 miles of Goree.^ Discovered 
a large English Brig and several small craft at anchor 
under the fort. . . . Finding we came up rapidly with the 
chase, and believing her to be an armed vessel, again piped 
all hands to quarters and cleared for action. 9 p. m. hoisted 
a light on our fore rigging, and discharged several muskets 
as a signal for the chase to heave to ; not obeying these sig- 
nals fired a shot under her stern ; still continuing her course 
fired one of the bow guns, well loaded, directly into her; 
upon which she immediately bore away, and ran down close 

^ The name Goree was until very recently applied to the part of the 
town of Bristol in which the negroes lived. 



242 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

under our lee. As she passed us Capt. Wilson hailed her 
with the usual questions, and by the answers found her to 
be "His Britannic Majesty's Schooner St. Jago, from Goree 
bound to Senegal." After which the British Commander 
hailed us and was told we were 'The Armed American Brig 
Yankee'' ; after which he demanded "How we dared to fire 
into His Majesty's schooner and ordered us to send our 
boat on board." Captain Wilson replied "I will not, strike 
your colours or I will sink you." Instantly His Britannic 
Majesty's Schooner wore upon her keel, and luffed up close 
on the wind, to prepare (as we supposed) for action. Not 
thinking it advisable to engage a King's vessel, without 
knowing her force, at close quarters during a dark night, 
we resolved to wait until daylight, and therefore stood after 
her under easy sail. At ii p. m. the St. Jago fired a shot 
which passed over us; we returned the compliment by giv- 
ing him Long Tom — doubly charged with round and lan- 
grage. We thus returned shot for shot until i p. m., when 
the Commander and Officers thinking it inadvisable to en- 
gage a government vessel, where we should only get hard 
blows, and probably lose some spars and men, ordered the 
Master to make sail and stand to the W. S. W. to deceive 
the Enemy as to our cruising station. At 2 p. m. lost sight 
of him astern. The Officers and men remained at quarters 
upwards of 5 hours and displayed great resolution and 
courage. . . . Lat. Obs. I4°2'. 

38th Day Tuesday 24th Nov. 
. . . . Land in sight. . . . Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 
1 1 °4o'. 

39th Day Wednesday 25 th Nov. 
. ... At 4 p. m. Edward James, one of the seamen, re- 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 243 

ceived 12 lashes, in the main rigging, in presence of the 
whole crew, as a punishment for stealing a shirt from one 
of the Marines.- John Koster struck off the Surgeon's list 
— the other invalids recovering fast — none incapable of 
duty. Lat. Obs. 8°53'. 

40th Day Thursday 26th Nov. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . . . No Obs. 
41st Day Friday 27th Nov. 
.... At 6 a. m. Jonathan Whitmarsh saw a sail bearing 
N. b E. distant about 3 leagues. Set all sail in chase . . . 
7 a. m. discovered the sail to be a sloop. ... 9 a. m. piped 
all hands to Quarters. 10 a. m. cleared for action and fired 
a gun without shot, upon which the sail bore down for us. 
10.30 she came under our lee with English colours flying 
at her main peak. Captain Wilson hailed her and ordered 
her to strike her colours instantly, which she did accord- 
ingly. Sent the barge on board. Found her to be the Sloop 
Mary Ann of London, Stewart Sutherland, Master, 70 & 
21/95 tons burden, copper-bottomed, armed with 4 carriage 
guns and navigated by 9 persons, trading upon the coast, 
with a cargo of sundries. She was last from Dick's Cove, 
bound to Sierra Leone. Upon examining the Mary Ann 
and cargo it was not advisable to send her as a prize to 
America, but to take out of her the most valuable part of 
her cargo and then set her on fire. Accordingly we received 
on board the Yankee a quantity of gold dust (value un- 
known), some ivory, trade muskets, a few Calcutta goods, 
and sundry small articles of no great value. We then set 

2 This is the only record of a punishment inflicted upon one of the 
crew during the whole cruise. As will later appear one of the Officers 
became subject for censure on several occasions. 



244 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

fire to the Mary Ann and made sail on our course. The 
probable value of the Mary Ann and her cargo might be 
$12,000. Lat. Obs. 7°29' N. Surgeon's list James Angell, 
George Gunnerson, Asa Switchell, Joseph Butman, Anson 
A. Allen, John Briggs, & Samuel Boynton. Slight com- 
plaints, none disabled from duty. The weather becomes 
remarkably hot, with almost continual calms, light winds, 
thunder, lightning and rain. 

42d Day Saturday 28th Nov. 
.... All hands employed in stowing away the ivory. . . , 
Lat. Obs. 7°33'. 

43d Day Sunday 29th Nov. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . . . Invalids recovering fast. 
. . . . Lat. Obs. 7° 1 3'. 

44th Day Monday 30th Nov. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. . . . (Sail sighted but lost) 
Lat. Obs. 6° 47'. The weather becomes insufferably hot. 
Almost continual calms, with a vertical sun. 

45 th Day out — ist Dec. 181 2 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 6°45'. 

46th Day Wednesday 2d Dec. 
.... At 7 a. m. Abner Midget saw a sail right ahead dis- 
tant about 5 leagues. Got out all the sweeps. 8 a. m. ob- 
served several water spouts under the lee — squally with 
flying clouds and rain. At 11 made out the chase to be a 
schooner standing to the eastward. At meridian still in 
chase of the schooner distant about 2 leagues. Lat. Obs. 

6°55'. 

47tli Day Thursday 3d Dec. 

At meridian continued in chase of the sail ahead. Yz past 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 245 

12 got out the boats to assist the sweeps by towing. Found 
we came up rapidly with the chase. 2 p. m. fired a gun; 
hoisted EngHsh colours; not answered. 3/2 past 2 p. m. 
gave her a gun, upon which the chase showed English col- 
ours. 3 p. m. being distant about i>^ miles hoisted Amer- 
ican colours and commenced firing Long Tom, towing- the 
Brig all the time with the boats. 4 p. m. got the boats 
astern, piped all hands to Quarters and cleared for action. 
Light airs and a smooth sea. Being now within good gun 
shot commenced a brisk cannonade on the starboard side. 
The chase returned the fire with 4 guns, the shot frequently 
falling near and one shot wounding the jib. At 20 minutes 
past 4 p. m. the Enemy fired a stern-chaser, double-charged, 
and instantly blew up, occasioning a tremendous explosion. 
Observed the Enemy to be on fire and several men swim- 
ming alongside. Immediately ceased firing (although her 
colours were still flying) and sent out boats with Lieut. 
Barton and Master Snow on board to save the lives of the 
Enemy, and extinguish the fire. They took up the swim- 
mers and then rowed alongside. The scene that now pre- 
sented itself to their view was shocking beyond description. 
The vessel was still in flames, the quarter-deck was blown 
off, the Captain was found near the mainmast — naked, 
mangled and burnt in the most shocking manner, one of 
the seamen lay near bruised and burnt almost as bad, a 
black man was found dead on the cabin floor, and five others 
around him apparently dying. All these wounded men were 
sent on board the Yankee and there received every possible 
attention from the Captain, Surgeon and Officers. Dr. 
Miller dressed their wounds and gave them the proper 
medicines but found the Captain and several of the blacks 
in a most dangerous condition. The Captain had received 



246 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

two deep wounds in the head which penetrated to the skull 
(probably from our langrage shot), his arms and legs were 
much bruised, his skin nearly all burnt off and his whole 
system greatly injured by the concussion. A small black 
boy had a most singular yet distressing appearance. This 
boy was literally blown out of his skin and for some time 
after he came on board we thought he was white. The 
sufferings of these poor fellows seemed very painful and 
excruciating. Lieut. Barton extinguished the fire, sent all 
the prisoners on board together with a boatload of sundry 
articles taken out of the cabin which had not been con- 
sumed. Finding the prize no ways injured except in her 
quarter deck the Commander ordered Lieut. Barton with 
a chosen crew to remain on board and to keep company 
with us during the night. On examination of the Schoon- 
er's papers and log-book we found her to be the Letter of 
Marque Schooner called The Alder of Liverpool, (owned 
by Charles B. Whitehead) formerly called La Clarisse and 
taken from the French, commanded by Edward Crowley, 
yy tons burthen, mounting 4 carriage guns, and navigated 
by 10 men, besides 11 African crew, men. She left Sierra 
Leone 9 days ago bound to the Leeward on a trading voy- 
age, with an assorted cargo of Bafts,^ gunpowder, muskets, 

2 Baft, or bafta, was a coarse stuff of India cotton. 

bar-lead & iron, beads, flints and sundries. The Adler ap- 
pears to be about 4 years old, is copper-bottomed, measures 
67 feet in length, but her sails are very poor and she does 
not sail well. The probable value of this prize in America 
might be $5000 ; but her nett value could not exceed $3000. 
At 8 p. m. one of the black seamen died and was thrown 
overboard. 25 minutes past 2 a. m. Captain Crowley not- 
withstanding every medical assistance departed this life in 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 247 

the greatest agony. For some hours previous to his disso- 
lution he appeared to suffer excruciating torments and when 
informed of his approaching end did not seem sensible of 
his situation. His body was committed to the waves with 
as much decency as was practicable. At 9 a. m. the boy 
before mentioned also died and had a watery grave. The 
white seamen and three other blacks are just wavering be- 
tween life and death and we fear can not recover. 

The Boatswain related to us the accident which led to the 
horrid catastrophy. He said the Captain stood at the helm 
steering the vessel and giving his orders; that himself and 
several of the seamen were stationed at the gun aft; that 
the instant it was discharged the gun capsized with great 
violence, broke one of the quarter deck planks, threw the 
wadd — all on fire — directly into the magazine which was 
situated abaft the cabin, and the vessel instantly blew up. 
(Himself and another seaman leaped into the sea when they 
saw the gun dismounted and thus saved themselves.) It is 
supposed the Captain was thrown from the helm into the 
air and then fell into the main rigging. The blacks who 
were so dreadfully mangled were in the magazine filling 
cartridges. Sent the carpenter with materials to repair the 
prize. At 4 a. m. came on one of the most tremendous 
tornadoes ever witnessed. It blew, rained, thundered and 
lightened in a truly terrific manner. Took in all sail and 
kept the vessel before it. The lightning was unusually vivid 
and struck several times close on board. Having no con- 
ductor every mind was filled with apprehension and alarm. 
Latter part very light airs inclining to calm. The prisoners 
inform us there are several vessels of war at Sierra Leone, 
to wit, a new frigate, 2 sloops of war, a gun-brig, and sev- 
eral smaller vessels, all bound out on a cruise. They also 



i 



248 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

tell us of two fine brigs which lately sailed from that place 
and are trading to the leeward — one of them owned by the 
late Captain of the Alder. The Alder has several shot in 
her sails, rigging, boat, etc. but none in her hull.* Our in- 
valids recovering fast. They all appeared at quarters ex- 
cept Goff who had a large swelHng on his right arm. Lat. 
Obs. 5°53^ 

48th Day Friday 4th Dec. 

During the greater part of these 24 hours calm with oc- 
casional light airs. At 4 and 6 p. m. the two other black 
seamen who were blown up on board the schooner died and 
were thrown overboard, making altogether six persons who 
have perished by this most unfortunate accident. The white 
seaman is still in a most dangerous state, but the Surgeon 
gives us hopes of his recovery. 

We were much surprised on examination of the Alder's 
colours to discover a Pirate's flag and pendant. This cir- 
cumstance lessens our compassion for the deceased Captain 
Crowley as it indicates a hostile disposition toward all man- 
kind. . . . On a consultation of officers it was deemed ad- 
visable to man our prize, put on board of her the muskets, 
bafts, iron, etc. we took out of the Sloop Mary Ann, send 
her to Loango to dispose of her cargo for gold dust, ivory, 
dyewoods, or other valuable articles, and then proceed to 
America. Accordingly the Commander commissioned Dan- 
iel Salisbury as Prize-master, together with Edward Jones 
as Mate and four seamen to navigate said prize on her in- 
tended voyage. Made out a prize commission, letter of 
instructions, invoices, etc. and gave the Prize-master all 
the schooner's papers. We sent on board of her every 

* The Yankee in firing aimed to disable — not to destroy her possible 
prizes. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 249 

article we had taken out of the sloop or schooner, together 
with provisions and various other necessary articles. All 
hands employed in despatching the prize. Lat. Obs. 7°. 

49th Day Saturday 5th Dec. 
.... The wounded foreigner recovers fast and is consid- 
ered out of danger. All invalids recovered. Lat. Obs. 6° 53', 

50th Day Sunday 6th Dec. 
At Yz past 4 p. m. saw the land. . . . Being Saturday 
night the crew drank a health to all sweethearts and wives 
and amused themselves with various diversions. The 
marines chanted psalms and hymns, the sailors sang "Old 
Tom Tough," and "Old Tom BowHng," and the officers 
listened with pleasure to the merriment of the crew.^ 
Sounded frequently during the night in 40, 30, 21 & 15 
fathoms of water. At daylight saw Cape Mount. . . . Two 
canoes came from the shore with blacks. They informed 
us there were no vessels of any description at the Cape, 
upon which we up helm, squared the yards and bore away 
to the leeward. . . . Lat. Obs. 6°38' N. 

51st Day Monday 7th Dec. 
At 4 p. m. two canoes came along side from Cape Little 
Mount and informed us of a schooner loading with rice at 
Trade-town, and also of a large brig that sailed from Mon- 
serrada this morning bound to leeward. During the night, 
not wishing to pass by Monserrada, stood off and on under 
easy sail until daylight when we saw Cape Monserra distant 
about 7 leagues. 10 a. m. another canoe came off who con- 
firmed the news relative to the brig and also mentioned 

^ In comparing the edifying music of the marines with the ungodly 
songs of the sailors the gentle reader will do well to bear in mind the 
fact that the writer was the Captain of Marines. 



250 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

(Which we regret to hear) that a sloop of war passed down 
to leeward 6 days ago. Bought a few plantains and cassadas 
of these natives but did not suffer them to come on board. 
These Africans came off the distance of 3 or 4 leagues in 
small bark canoes and were entirely naked; they most of 
them spoke some English. The foreign invalid seems worse 
to-day, owing no doubt to the excessive heat. Lat. Obs. 
6° 1 5' N. 

52d Day Tuesday 8th Dec. 
.... At 6 a. m. saw a sail right ahead distant about 4 
leagues. Set all sail in chase. 9 a. m. made out the chase 
to be a brig standing in shore. . . . 

53d Day Wednesday 9th Dec, 
CAPTURE OF THE ANDALUSIA 
Lat. 5°35' N. Trade Town bearing N. E. distant about 
4 leagues. Commences with light airs inclining to calm. 
Continued in chase of the sail ahead. We now discovered 
her to be a large armed brig, showing 8 ports on a side, with 
English colours flying at her main peak, apparently pre- 
paring for action. At Yz past i p. m. the enemy commenced 
firing, heaving everj^ shot over us. 2 p. m. he made sail 
and began discharging his stern-chasers. At ^ past 2, 
being within half cannon shot, we commenced firing our 
Long Twelve. 34 past 3 p. m., having approached within 
half-musket shot, we opened our whole battery upon the 
enemy and continued the action (the enemy keeping up a 
well directed fire from his cannon and musketry) till 20 
minutes past 4 p. m., — when observing that the Enemy's 
colours had been shot away in the early part of the engage- 
ment, and that his fire became very faint, the Commander 
gave orders to cease firing, and hailed her, enquiring if she 



I 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 251 

had struck. The enemy answered "I have." Sent Lieut. 
Barton on board and found her to be the EngHsh Letter 
of Marque Brig called the Andalusia, Anthony Yates Ken- 
dall, Master, 210 tons burthen, mounting 10 carriage guns, 
6 twelve pound cannonades, & 4 long French nines, with 
small arms, ammunition etc., navigated by a Captain, Super- 
cargo, and 17 white seamen, besides 81 free Africans who 
served as marines. The Andalusia is owned at Gibraltar, 
and was last from Sierra Leone bound to the Leeward with 
a cargo of sundries on a trading voyage. It appears from 
her Log that she captured an American brig called the Tzvo 
Friends off Port Praya, and carried her into Sierra Leone. 
The action lasted nearly three hours from the time the first 
shot was fired until the Enemy struck. We engaged him 
45 minutes within pistol shot. Captain Kendall and his 
Boatswain were both slightly wounded ; the remainder owed 
their safety to their excellent bulwark. On boarding the 
prize we found her mainmast and f oreyard badly wounded ; 
one shot under her fore-chains, which passed through and 
lodged in the opposite timbers; another which entered the 
cabin and lodged in the Captain's bed; nearly all her sails, 
braces, standing and running rigging shot away, and every 
part of the vessel more or less injured. All the white pris- 
oners were sent on board the Yankee and Lieut. Barton with 
a strong watch remained on board the prize to guard the 
blacks. At 6 p. m. we made sail standing in shore, our 
prize in company, and came to anchor in 20 fathoms water. 
At daylight piped all hands to duty, sent part of the crew 
on board the Andalusia to repair damages and employed 
the remainder of the officers and crew in mending our sails, 
splicing our rigging, cleaning the arms, landing the black 
prisoners on their own shore, and other necessary duty. On 



252 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

examining our vessel after the action found we had received 
one I2lb shot through our bulwarks which passed out the 
lee side without any material injury, 4 balls through the 
main-sail, 6 shot in the foretopsail, one grape-shot lodged 
in the mainmast, and the weather forebrace, and one of the 
shrouds shot away. No person wounded. 

At 7 a. m. we discovered a schooner in shore, standing 
to the northward. Weighed anchor and set sail in chase. 
9 a. m. being nearly calm sent Master Snow with an armed 
boats' crew with orders to take possession of her and then 
to set sail for the Yankee. At meridian Master Snow not 
returned. Lat. Obs. 5° 35' N. 

54th Day Thursday loth Dec. 
At 4 p. m. Master Snow came to anchor under our lee 
with his little prize and gave the following account of his 
adventure. He said that on approaching the vessel he ob- 
served her boat attempting to land on the beach. That she 
struck on a rock, was capsized, throwing every article into 
the sea, and the Captain and crew swam on shore. That on 
going on board he found her entirely deserted, as he ex- 
pected, and stripped of every valuable article, except a quan- 
tity of rice stowed in bulk. He immediately made sail and 
stood for the privateer. The prisoners inform us that the 
schooner is called the George, and owned by Mr. Carr of 
Sierra Leone; that she is an American pilot boat and was 
taken in the Gambia about six months ago. She appears 
to be 60 or 70 tons burthen, has very poor sails and foul 
bottom. No doubt if coppered, with new canvass, she would 
sail remarkably well, at present she is very dull. As soon 
as she came to anchor we sent all our boats to take out the 
rice. We supplied our vessel and the other prize with as 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 253 

much of this article as was wanted, and then Captain Wilson 
made a present of the vessel to Captain Sutherland, late of 
the Mary Ann, as he had been the greatest sufTerer by the 
capture of his vessel, and moreover had been 15 days a pris- 
oner on board of the Yankee. 

At II a. m., having taken the parole of all the white pris- 
oners on board (giving them duplicates) we supplied them 
with every necessary article for their voyage to Sierra Leone 
and gave them all their clothes, baggage, private property 
etc., bade them farewell, sent them on board the schooner, 
and then made sail in company with our prize, standing 
down the coast. Captains Sutherland and Kendall, Mr. 
O'Connor, and all the prisoners, expressed their gratitude 
and thanks for the kind treatment they had received on board 
the Yankee. Indeed they could do no less. For the captains 
lived in the cabin with the officers, the mates in the ward- 
room, and the sailors were well treated by our crew. In fact 
our instructions require that we shall treat our prisoners 
with kindness and humanity. N.B. The supercargo of the 
Andalusia estimated the vessel and cargo at $19,000, but I 
am confident they will not sell for $9000 in America. The 
George with her rice might be worth $800. Lat. Obs. 
5°3o' N. 

55th Day Friday nth Dec. 

Having landed the Africans and dismissed the white pris- 
oners (amounting altogether to 145 persons) we made prep- 
arations for sending home the Andalusia. Made out com- 
mission, prize instructions and other documents for Captain 
Robert Tompenny, who was appointed Prize-master, to- 
gether with William Child as Mate and 7 seamen to navi- 
gate said prize to America. Also wrote a letter to the 



254 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

owners giving- them an abstract account of our cruise up 
to the present period. At 4 p. m. gave our prize three 
cheers, bade them adieu, and made all sail, standing down 
the coast. During the night light winds and hazy weather. 
This morning a great number of canoes along side with fish 
and other articles. Exchanged some tobacco, bafts, iron 
etc. for ivory and fresh provisions. . . . John Carter, the 
Captain of Long Tom, broke his arm on board the prize 
in jumping into the hold. The Surgeon set it. We have 
at present no invalids on board. Two or three of the 
marines are troubled with bad boils but none disabled from 
duty. The Surgeon thought it best to send the poor fellow 
who was blown up on board the Alder to Sierra Leone under 
the care of Captain Sutherland. Lat. Obs. 4° 59' N. 

56th Day Saturday 12th Dec. 
At 6 p. m. came to anchor in 15 fathoms of water in a 
sandy bottom, opposite the town of Settakroo (about 60 
miles to the windward of Cape Palmas) at the distance of 
about three miles from the shore. ... At daylight piped 
all hands to duty and sent both our boats, with a number 
of canoes, to fill our water. We are told this is the safest 
place to water from Goree to Cape Palmas, as the anchorage 
is good, the landing easy, and the water most excellent. 
His Majesty the King of Settakroo came on board. He is 
an old man and wears a mantle. His subjects are entirely 
naked. His son called Grand Loo, whom we took out of 
the Andalusia, has been of great assistance to us in our 
traffic with the natives for ivory and fresh stock. There 
are upwards of a hundred canoes alongside, dressed in the 
robe of Paradise, who talk and chatter and scream like a 
set of monkeys or parrots. Lat. Obs. 4°42'. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 255 

57th Day Sunday 13th Dec. 
These 24 hours filled our water, bought two fine bullocks, 
five goats, and a quantity of fowls, yams, plantains etc. 
At 7 p. m. unmoored and made sail, standing down the 
coast. ... At sunrise calm and no land in sight. Killed 
one of the bullocks. A number of fishing canoes along- 
side. . . . Lat. Obs. 4° 42'. 

58th Day Monday 14th Dec. 
.... At 5 p. m. hove to off the town of Grand Sisters, 
distant about 3 miles. Sent our barge on shore to land Tom 
Wilson, whom we had taken prisoner on the Mary Ann. 
This fellow, son to the King of Grand Sisters, has been 
of great assistance to us in filling our water, and trading 
with the natives for live stock, ivory etc. He speaks good 
English and is an honest, intelligent negro. When our 
barge landed we observed a vast collection of the natives 
on the beach. Grand Sisters appears to be a large town, 
composed of a great number of huts, situated in the midst 
of palm groves and rice fields. The adjacent scenery has 
really a very pleasing and picturesque appearance. This 
town is at war with little Sisters, their neighbors and the 
natives showed great apprehension in coming off to our 
vessel. . . . The canoes alongside say no vessels have 
passed here this month. At meridian Cape Palmas in sight. 
. . . This Cape has no distinguishing appearance except 
a small rise in the land & trees. Watch employed in paint- 
ing the ship. Thermometer 106 in the sun. Lat. Obs. 4, 17. 

59th Day Tuesday 15th Dec. 
.... Killed the other bullock. At meridian sailing the 
Bay of St. Andrews. The land here rises considerably and 
is covered with trees to the very top. No appearance of 



256 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

cultivation. Lat. 4, 38. Carter recovers fast; the other 
invahds recovered. 

60th Day Wednesday i6th Dec. 
As you approach the Bay of St. Andrews the land grad- 
ually rises to a considerable height, and is covered with 
lofty trees to the summit. There are no towns visible. . . . 
Running down the Gold Coast with great velocity in hopes 
of capturing several vessels which we understand are trad- 
ing at Cape Lahore. At 8 a. m. a canoe came off from 
Picininni, Cape Lahore, who informed us a brig, mounting 
6 guns, and a sloop unarmed left Grand Cape Lahore 7 days 
ago, bound down to Cape Corse Castle. This is bad news. 
These natives brought off gold dust and ivory but would 
receive nothing but powder and iron. Therefore we did 
not trade with them. . . . Thermometer 112° Lat. Obs. 
4° 58' N. . . . We have now been at sea two months being 
one third of our cruise. During this time we have taken 
four prizes, 18 carriage guns, 250 stand small arms, 145 
prisoners, and property to the value of $60,000. Our Offi- 
cers and crew are all healthy and in good spirits. And we 
have water and provisions for at least three months on 
board. 

6 1 St Day Thursday 17th Dec. 
At 2 p. m. Antonio, King of Cape Lahore, attended by 
13 of his nobility came off in a war canoe. His Majesty 
confirmed the news we received this morning relative to 
the brig and sloop. These natives are as black as ebony, 
remarkably stout, well made, of a ferocious aspect, and 
their hair and beards platted in the most fantastic style. 
They wished to exchange gold and ivory for powder, rum 
and muskets, but we did not trade with them. After King 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 257 

Antonio had got as drunk as David's sow we were obliged 
to force him and his cannibals to go on shore. Cape Lahore 
has no distinguishing mark from the neighboring coast 
which is flat and sandy. Lat. 5° 5' N. 

62d Day Friday i8th Dec. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 5° 5'. 

63d Day Saturday 19th Dec. 
.... At 20 minutes past 9 a. m. Samuel Pickens discov- 
ered a brig at anchor . . . supposed to be under Fort Apol- 
lonia. . . . All sails set. ... At meridian the Fort bore 
right ahead, distant about six leagues. 

64th Day Sunday 20th Dec. 
Lieut. Barton piped for volunteers to man the barge and 
cut out the brig mentioned in yesterday's journal. Nearly 
the whole crew volunteered. From whom Mr. Barton se- 
lected 21 of the most able and experienced seamen, who 
were properly armed for the purpose. At 4 p. m. piped 
to quarters and cleared for action. It was understood that 
the Yankee should run in under English colours until she 
came within half-cannon shot of the brig, then send our 
barge on board the brig with the Lieutenant, another officer, 
and 6 bargemen only visible, the remainder being concealed 
under the sail. Accordingly at }i past 4 p. m. we rounded 
to within musket shot of the enemy and sent off the barge. 
In 6 minutes she had possession of the prize and imme- 
diately made sail, standing out to sea close on a wind. The 
Yankee did the same, previously firing the two shot directly 
into the Fort; which (strange to tell) was not returned. 
Lieut. Barton mentions that when he came alongside, and 
jumped on board with the whole boat's crew completely 



258 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

armed, the Captain instantly surrendered himself and his 
vessel. We find our prize to be the English copper-bot- 
tomed brig called the Fly of London, late Captain Jonathan 
Tydeman, 91 52/92 tons burthen, mounting 6 carriage- 
guns, long sixes, with ammunition, small arms etc. and 
navigated by a Captain and ten seamen beside negroes. The 
Fly was formerly a French privateer, built in the Isle of 
France, and condemned at the Cape of Good Hope. She 
is a handsome new vessel, sails remarkably well, and has 
a valuable cargo of gold-dust, ivory, gunpowder and dry- 
goods. She captured on the 29th October last a Portuguese 
sloop called the Nezv Constitution, (supposed to be Amer- 
ican property) with 8 slaves on board, and sent her to 
Sierra Leone for trial. The invoice of the Fly's cargo at 
the time she left London amounted to £6810, 2s, 5d, but 
her cargo is not calculated to sell in America. The prize 
and cargo, including the gold-dust, may be reasonably esti- 
mated at $15,000. Captain Tydeman states that altho the 
Castle at Apollonia mounts 50 heavy cannon, yet it has no 
garrison, but is the residence of several factors. Capt. T. 
says he supposed us to be an English man of war and there- 
fore made no preparations for defending his vessel. During 
the night stood out to sea, our prize in company. At day- 
light piped up all hands & made preparations for sending 
home the prize. Took the paroles of all prisoners, giving 
them duplicates. At 8 a. m. being in sight of land, we 
sent the prisoners on shore (according to their own request) 
in their own long boat' — giving them all their clothes, bag- 
gage and private property besides several presents. Took 
out of our prize some gunpowder, rum, porter, livestock 
and various small articles, supplying her with water and 
sundries for her voyage. Made out Prize Commission, In- 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 259 

structions, wrote a letter to the owners and sent Capt. 
Thomas Milton Prize Master of said brig, and at 1 1 p. m. 
bade him adieu and made sail on our course. Lat. Obs. 
4°, 41' N. 

65th Day Monday 21st Dec. 
At 7 p. m. passed our prize, gave them three cheers, and 
finally took leave of them." . . . The Commander thinks 
it advisable to leave the coast as no doubt there are men of 
war in pursuit of us both from the windward and leeward. 
Lat. Obs. 4°23^ 

66th Day Tuesday 22d Dec. 
.... We are now running for Annabona for the purpose 
of watering and then proceeding on our cruise. Andrew 
Holden and several seamen indisposed and on the Surgeon's 
list. Carter gets better fast. Lat. Obs. 3°3i' N. 

67th Day Wednesday 23d Dec. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . . . Lat. Obs. 2° 55' N. 

68th Day Thursday 24th Dec. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . . . Lat. Obs. 2° 18' N. 

69th Day Friday 25th Dec. 
.... Killed the fatted calf, or more properly the fatted 
goat, gave the crew a pudding with extra allowance of grog, 
to keep a Merry Christmas. All hands in good health 
and fine spirits. Thermometer 88° in the cabin. No 
doubt our friends in Bristol are now shivering with the 
cold under the icicles and snow banks of their frozen cli- 
mate. Lat. Obs. i°45' N. Long. Lunar at 9 a. m. 3° E. 

70th Day Saturday 26th Dec. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. i°25' N. 

* This was true in more ways than one as the Fly was recaptured 
by the British. The gold dust she had accumulated reached Bristol 
in the Yankee. 



26o TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

71st Day Sunday 27th Dec. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. i°2i' N. Lunar 
Obs. at 10 a. m. 5°2o' E. 

72d Day Monday 28th Dec. 
.... At 2 p. m. discovered a sail bearing two points on 
the lee bow. 4 p. m. spoke the Portuguese schooner (or 
boat) 14 or 16 tons burthen, called the Antonia de Santa 
Rosa de Lima, Capt. Felix, 5 days out from St. Thomas' 
bound to Princes' Island, with 27 slaves on board. The 
captain and crew, 9 in number, were all black." He said 
there were no vessels of any kind at St. Thomas' and he 
has seen none since he sailed. . . . Lat. Obs. i°y^ N. 

73d Day Tuesday 29th Dec. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 34' N. Lieut. Vin- 
son indisposed.* 

74th Day Wednesday 30th Dec. 
.... Surgeon's list. Lieut. Vinson, Mr. Andrew Holden, 
N. A. Slocum, Jas. Holden, John Carter, etc. None dan- 
gerous.^ Lat. Obs. 30' N. 

75th Day Thursday 31st Dec. 
As you approach the Island of St. Thomas from the 
westward, the land gradually rises from the northern and 
southern extremities till it forms a high mountain in the 
centre covered with clouds. This island appears to be cov- 
ered with trees except on a few level spots where there 
are green fields. At the northeast point there are two hum- 

'' The small size of the vessel suggests the Piiita and the Nina of the 
fleet of Columbus. 

® Mr. Vinson's indisposition was probably due to drunkenness, as 
will appear from subsequent entries. His case was an unusual one 
for a Privateersman. 

3 Query, Were there others sufifering from the Vinsonian malady? 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 261 

mocks, which on approaching you find to be the Island of 
Anna de Chaves. At 3^ after 6 p. m. came to anchor in 
20 fathoms of water. [Here follow some of the "ranges" 
taken.] At 8 a. m. the Commander and clerk went on 
shore, waited upon the Governor and Fiscal; were received 
with attention and politeness; obtained permission to fill 
their water, and were promised a supply of live-stock, vege- 
tables and fruit. The Governor invited them to dine on 
shore but Capt. W. declined, wishing to return on board 
to expedite the watering. The Governor had no informa- 
tion of the war between England and America. A British 
vessel touched at St. Thomas' lately, who said all differ- 
ences were settled between the governments. He informed 
us of a large English Letter of Marque Ship, mounting 18 
guns, with 45 men, loading with camwood in Gaboon River. 
He says the Amelia Frigate is expected at the island, and 
that most of the men of war on the coast touch at the island 
for supplies. Both the officers spoke in high terms of Amer- 
ica, were pleased to find that our governments were still 
on amicable terms, and expressed the greatest indignation 
against British Power, Pride, Injustice and Insolence. They 
were rejoiced that we had met with success on our cruise, 
and appeared entirely friendly in every respect. Surgeon's 
List. Mr. Holden Lieut. V. and Slocum recovered and 
struck ofT the list. 

76th Day Friday ist January 18 13 
The first part of this day filled our water from a fine 
clear rapid river, situated about 100 yards from the white 
house on the beach, cut as much wood as was necessary. 
At 4 p. m. (Thursday afternoon) an officer came on board 
with the Governor's compliments, and mentioned that he 



2G2 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

would supply us with every article we wanted as soon as 
possible, and send them on board in canoes without obliging 
us to beat up to the city. Sent a note expressive of our 
thanks on the occasion. At 9 a. m. the Commander and 
clerk again visited his Excellency Don Raymond da Cunha 
Matos and were received as yesterday with great politeness 
and civility. It being a great holiday they attended church, 
(N. B. The priests, monks and whole congregation were 
mulattoes or blacks) saw a procession civil and military 
composed of the principal inhabitants, with two bands of 
music, and the Virgin Mary, parading the streets. Dined 
with the Governor, had a most excellent dinner, with all 
kinds of vegetables, fruits, sweetmeats, liquors and wines; 
remained on shore the rest of the day as it came on to rain 
very heavy. The Governor having sent on board every 
article we wanted, paid him the amount in cloth and gold, 
bade him and the Fiscal adieu, returned on board, and at 
1 1 p. m. weighed anchor and stood out to sea with a fair 
wind. *St. Thomas' is a beautiful, fertile island, producing 
coffee in great abundance and of a superior quality; also 
corn, spices, vegetables and fruits of every description, cat- 
tle and other livestock, turtle, fish, etc. The town is in the 
form of a half moon, is situated at the head of a fine bay, 
and may contain three hundred houses, interspersed among 
gardens, plantain groves and coffee trees. Most of the 
buildings are small, many of them in ruins, and the remain- 
der by no means elegant. The fort, or castle, as you enter 
the bay on the left hand mounts 40 pieces of cannon, with 
a garrison of 100 men. The Governor informed us he had 

* Descriptions like this, which occur frequently in the Journals of 
American merchantmen, were carefully read by ship owners, and mas- 
tered by the Captains sent to trade with foreign ports. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 263 

information of two small English brigs loading in the 
Gaboon, besides the ship mentioned yesterday which he 
understood was now at the Cameroons. Upon the whole 
the Commander of the Yankee was much gratified with his 
reception at St. Thomas', and pleased to find these officers 
so favorably disposed toward the American government. 
77th Day Saturday 2d Jan. 
Nothing remarkable. Invalids all recovered. Lat. 
Obs. 16' N. 

78th Day Sunday 3d Jan. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lieut. Vinson and Asa 
Switcher incapable of duty. John Carter, James Holden, 
J. C. Lindegard, and several indisposed with slight com- 
plaints. Lat. Obs. 6' South. 

79th Day Monday 4th Jan. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . . . Excessively hot, Ther- 
mometer 90^ at midnight, being on the Line. Lat. Obs. 
4' North. 

80th Day Tuesday 5th Jan. 
.... At 7 p. m. came to anchor at the mouth of the 
Gaboon River in ten fathoms of water. . . . Immediately 
piped for volunteers to man the barge and explore the river 
to discover any strange sails. Master Snow appointed to 
command the expedition, and 21 brave fellows selected to 
accompany him. They were all completely armed and sup- 
plied with every article necessary for their night campaign. 
At 20 m. past 7 P. M. the barge left the Yankee with the 
best wishes of their remaining companions for their success 
and safe return. During the night calm and intolerably 
hot. At 9 a. m. discovered two large boats in shore rowing 



264 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

toward ns full of men. Piped all hands to Quarters, cleared 
for action and got a spring on the cable. Shortly after two 
African princes came on board, who informed us there was 
a small Portuguese schooner loading with slaves high up 
the river, and that an English Cutter arrived three days 
ago at King Glas' Town, near the mouth of the river. From 
their description of the vessel. Captain and cargo we were 
clearly convinced that this Cutter was no other than our 
prize the Alder, Capt. Salsberry. Capt. S. passed as an 
English vessel and told the natives he had been fired at by 
a Portuguese ship at Rio Pungus, and that one shot stove 
his boat; that he had been struck by lightning during a 
tornado, which blew up his quarter deck and killed the 
former captain and five seamen. This ingenious deception 
does much credit to our Prize-Master. These Africans 
further told us that the two brigs we heard of at St. Thomas' 
sailed with valuable cargoes two weeks ago, and that the 
ship had not arrived. At meridian the barge returned on 
board and Master Snow informed us that they had pro- 
ceeded up the river at least twelve leagues, that they saw 
no English vessels, but heard of the Portuguese schooner; 
that on their return they boarded the cutter mentioned above 
and found her to be really our prize the Alder. Capt. Salis- 
berry stated he had met a great deal of bad weather and lost 
some spars, but saw no enemy. He arrived in the river 
five days since, was making a rapid and profitable trade 
for ivory, wax, skins and wood, and expected to sail in 
about a week for America. Himself and crew were in 
good health. Surgeon's list. Lieut. Vinson, James Holden, 
J. C. Lindegard recovered, Carter nearly recovered and 
Switcher better. Lat. Obs. 37' N. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 265 

8 1 St day . . . Wednesday 6tli Jan. 
At meridian weighed anchor and stood out of the Gaboon 
River bound down the coast. . . . Nothing remarkable. 
Lat. Obs. 18' S. 

82d Day Thursday 7th Jan. 
.... Nothing remarkable. . , . No observation. 
83d Day Friday 8th Jan. 
During these 24 hours (as usual) variable winds, calms, 
squalls, thunder, lightning and heavy rain. All hands em- 
ployed about ship's duty presenting a very busy and amusing 
scene. Lat. Obs. 31' S. 

84th Day Saturday 9th Jan. 
.... All sail set, bound to Annabona for supply, and from 
thence to the Island of St. Helena, one of our cruising sta- 
tions. Long, from Lunar Obs. at 3 o'clock p. m. 8° 40' — 
Lat. Obs. i°22' S. 

85th Day Sunday loth Jan. 
Annabona bearing W. N. W. 3 leagues. At 5 p. m. saw 
the land 2 points on the lee bow. %. past 5 discovered a 
sail 4 points on the weather bow, took in studding-sails and 
luffed up close on a wind in chace. . . . At 10 p. m. dis- 
covered by the help of our night glasses that the chace was 
a brig standing to the westward. Shortened sail and kept 
in company during the night. At daylight made all sail to 
come up with the chace. Observed she had hove to ; hoisted 
English colours & showed 7 ports on a side. Piped all 
hands to quarters and cleared for action. At 7 a. m. came 
alongside and ordered her to strike her colours, which she 
did accordingly. Sent the barge on board and found our 
prize to be the English Brig Thames, late Francis Toole 



266 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

Master, 171 tons burthen, mounting 8 carriage guns (4-12 
lbs & 4 long nines) with small arms, ammunition, etc. from 
Mayjumba, coast of Africa, bound to London, navigated 
by 14 persons, with a cargo of camwood, some goods and 
ivory. Took the prisoners on board the Yankee, and sent 
Capt. George Eddy as Prize-Master, with N. M, Slocun 
and 8 seamen to navigate said vessel to America. Gave 
said Prize-Master the vessel's papers, his Commission, In- 
structions, Letter to the Owners etc. and then bade him 
farewell. The Thames is copper-bottomed, thoroughly re- 
paired, and carries a large cargo. This vessel and cargo 
may be reasonably estimated at $25,000. 

N. B. On the very day and hour of our capturing the 
Thames our Commander was born — 27 years ago. 

86th Day Monday nth Jan. 

At 5 p. m. came to anchor on the north side of the Island 
of Annabona in 7 fathoms water, sandy bottom, opposite 
a small village distant about a mile from the shore. . . . 
Soon after we came to, the black Governor and his mate 
came on board. We easily obtained permission to water, 
wood etc. . . . Having finished our trade and filled our 
water at 20 m before 12 a. m. we got under weigh. . . . 
This island is 7 or 8 leagues in circumference and is re- 
markable for a lofty mountain covered with orange, lime 
and cocoanut trees. It has a fertile and beautiful appear- 
ance. 

It is with deep regret that the Commander of the Yankee 
feels it his duty in justice to himself, his Officers and his 
crew, to make the following entry in his Journal, relative 
to the conduct of one of his officers. — My Second Lieutenant 
John H. Vinson, has never. In my opinion, displayed either 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 267 

seamanship, judgment or courage during our cruise. He 
appeared to be much intoxicated on the night of the partial 
engagement with His Majesty's Schooner St. J ago, and 
behaved with great impropriety. During the skirmish with 
the Alder he was particularly negligent in not extinguishing 
the flames when our bulwarks were on fire. And during 
the long engagement with the Andalusia he certainly did 
not manifest either activity or courage. This officer is 
guilty of one offence which would subject him even to cap- 
ital punishment — viz — sleeping on his zuatch. The night 
after we captured the Fly, when we had a number of pris- 
oners on board, and many of our crew had got drunk on 
board the prize, and were extremely riotous, Lieut. Vinson 
was himself much intoxicated, or to speak plainly dead 
drunk, and slept in his watch in presence of myself, my 
officers, and the whole crew. He was guilty of the same 
offence on the 5th January when we lay at the Gaboon, and 
also last night when we had 14 prisoners on board, and 
were anchored on a savage coast. This offence of getting 
drunk and sleeping on a watch is of a very serious and 
alarming nature, endangering both the safety of the vessel 
and the lives of all on board. His conduct subjects him 
to a court martial which will certainly convince him of his 
errors. 

87th Day Tuesday 12th Jan. 
.... At 4 p. m. exercised all hands at quarters ; after 
which piped all hands to muster and found our crew now 
consisted of 71 men. . . . Lat. Obs. i°25' S. 

88th Day Wednesday 13th Jan. 
.... John Carter recovered and struck off the Surgeon's 
list. No invalids. Nothing worthy of remark. Lat. Obs. 



268 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

89th Day Thursday 14th Jan, 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. . . . Lat. Obs. 2^39' S, No 
invalids. 

90th Day Friday 14th Jan. 
. . . . Lat. Obs. 3° 1 6' S. . . . We have now been at sea 
3 months, one half of our cruise, and 97 days from Bristol 
where our cruise commenced. During this time we have 
taken 6 prizes, measuring 685 tons, mounting 34 carriage 
guns, 525 stand of arms, and 150 prisoners. 

91st Day Saturday i6th Jan. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. — Lat. Obs. 4^23'. 

92d Day Sunday 17th Jan. 
. . . . All hands in excellent health. Being Saturday (Sun- 
day) night all hands enjoyed the jubilee and drank to their 
sweethearts and wives. Our prisoners are mostly Irishmen 
and seem to be quiet and well disposed. Lat. Obs. 5° 55'. 

93d Day Monday i8th Jan. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 6^33' S. 

94th Day Tuesday 19th Jan. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 7° 13' S. 

95th Day Wednesday 20th Jan. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 7°53' S. 

96th Day Thursday 21st Jan. 
At 34 P^st 5 p. m. came to anchor off the N. W. end of 
Ascension Island. . . . Sent the barge on shore for the 
purpose of taking turtle during the night. ... At 8 a. m. 
the barge returned on board with a fine large turtle, weigh- 
ing at least 400 lbs., and containing several thousand eggs — 
the only one seen on the beach during the night. At 9 a. m. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 269 

again dispatched the barge and Capt. Wilson went on shore 
in the jolly-boat, to endeavor to procure more turtle. Wrote 
a letter, or memorandum, mentioning the arrival of the 
Privateer Yankee at this island ; her successful cruise, num- 
ber of captures, guns, prisoners, value, etc. ; also the declara- 
tion of war against England, and its principal events; — 
which letter we directed to any American captains who 
might hereafter touch at this island. This letter was de- 
posited among the rocks, being anchored in a bottle, where 
we observed a number of names engraved, particularly the 
following "Young Dickenson, J. W. Costa, 181 3," and 
"The Crescent Leach, 1812." ^ past 11 a. m. the boats 
returned on board without any success. The officers and 
seamen caught a great number of fish, and killed a quantity 
of birds — neither fit to eat. The Island of Ascension is 
3 leagues in length and 2 in breadth. It is composed of 
several hills or hummocks covered with a reddish earth, and 
has a very rugged and craggy appearance. It was evidently 
thrown up by some convulsion of nature. It is not inhabited 
and produces neither tree, fruit or vegetable — nay not even 
fresh water. There are some miserable lean wild goats 
and innumerable ship rats. The island is principally re- 
markable for the vast quantity of turtle which resort here 
to deposit their eggs during certain months of the year. 
These turtle are easily taken during the night by concealing 
yourself on the beach, rushing suddenly upon them when 
they come on shore, and capsizing them. They are said 
to be of the finest and most delicious kind. Joseph Anthony, 
coxswain of the barge, was very badly bruised when she 
capsized in the surf, and Zep. Andrews cut his hand very 
severely in butchering the turtle. It is singular that our 
crew receive more wounds from their own negligence than 



270 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

the shot of the enemy. Ascension — 7° 56' South Lat. 
I3°54' West Long." 

97th Day Friday 226. Jan. 
The officers and company feasted most kixuriously on 
the fine turtle they caught the preceding night. . . . Caught 
another large turtle during the night. At 7 a. m. got in 
the barge, weighed anchor, and stood out to sea. . . . An- 
thony and Andrews much better. Lat. Obs. 7°53^ Varia- 
tion by a correct Amplitude taken while at anchor in 
Ascension Roads 15° 12' W. 

98th Day Saturday 23d Jan. 
.... The Surgeon performed a surgical operation on 
James Anthony, by cutting out a wen or protuberance on 
his right cheek. Dr. Miller seems to be quite proficient in 
the use of the knife and lancet. Lat. Obs. 8° S. 

99th Day Sunday 24th Jan. 
.... Killed our large turtle and all hands had a Sunday 
feast. It was superexcellent. No invalids. Lat. Obs. 8° S. 

1 00th Day Monday 25th Jan. 
.... Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 8° 15' S. 

1 01 St Day Tuesday 26th Jan. 
At 9 a. m. piped all hands to Vendue and sold a quantity 
of prize goods, viz, shirts, cloth, linen, razors, knives, cloaks, 
flannel, etc. etc. to the officers and crew to furnish them 
with clothes for their cruise and when they arrive on a win- 
ter's coast. Lat. 8°6' S. 

I02d Day Wednesday 27th Jan. 
.... Nothing worthy of remark. Lat. Obs. 7° 53' S. 
Long. Lunar 29^35' W. 

^° The two islands, Ascension and Saint Helena, which was later 
to become famous as the prison of Napoleon Bonaparte, were both 
made "Ports of Call" for the Yankee. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 271 

103d Day Thursday 28th Jan. 
. . . . Lat. Obs. 7°52' S. Lunar Obs. 32°;' W. 

104th Day Friday 29th Jan. 
. . . . Nothing remarkable. Lat. Obs. 8° 8'. 

105th Day Saturday 30th Jan. 
.... 7 a. m. saw several small Portuguese fishing boats, 
called Jangars. 3^ past 7 a. m. made the land bearing right 
ahead, distant 7 or 8 leagues. The land appeared low, with 
a number of towers or churches on the coast, and the town 
of Olinde situated on the side of a hill, making a beautiful 
appearance. 9 a. m. discovered several large vessels at 
anchor in the harbour of Pernambuco. 11 a. m. spoke a 
Portuguese schooner just out of Pernambuco, bound to 
windward; informed us there were no English men of war 
on the coast^ — that there were three large British ships in 
harbour, loading, and two American schooners laid up with- 
out cargoes. They had heard of no American privateers 
on this station. 11 a. m. jibed ship in chace of a sail distant 
4 or 5 miles. . . . Lat. Obs. 8° 12'. 

1 06th Day Sunday 31st Jan. 
Pernambuco bearing N. W. distant 8 or 10 leagues. At 
I p. m. piped all hands to quarters, ran down under the lee 
of a large armed English brig, pierced for 16 guns, and 
mounting 8. When within pistol shot ordered her to strike 
her colours — the reply was "We are all ready" — and hesi- 
tated. Capt. Wilson again ordered him to lower his flag 
and quit the deck or he would fire into him. The reply was 
"Surely you are joking." Our Commander still ordered 
his men not to fire, and a third time ordered him to strike 
instantly, which he did with great reluctance. Sent our 
boat on board and found our prize to be the large armed 



2.^2. TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

English Brig called the Harriott and Matilda of Mayport, 
Captain John Inman, burthen 262 tons, copper-bottomed, 
mounting 8 carriage guns — 6 twelve and 2 eighteen pound 
cannonades, from Cork bound to Pernambuco, with a cargo 
of salt, porter, iron, drygoods, earthenware, butter, cheese, 
potatoes etc. etc. The Harriott and Matilda was captured 
from the Danes in 1808, sails well, and is a fine vessel. The 
vessel and cargo may be reasonably valued at $27,000. Took 
the prisoners on board and beat off the land during the 
night. At 7 p. m. sent 18 prisoners ashore in our barge, 
which we gave them, with all their clothes, baggage, a com- 
pass, water, provisions etc. being at this time within 7 
leagues of Pernambuco. During the latter part of these 
24 hours all hands employed in taking out the following 
articles from the prize, viz — 16 hampers cheese, 56 do Irish 
potatoes, 20 kegs of butter, 6 casks bottled porter, 20 gal- 
lons Rum, and 31 bales of fine merchandise. The Harriott 
and Matilda sailed from Cork under convoy of the Frolic 
(Cherub f) sloop of war, and parted from him three days 
before. The convoy consisted of 6 East Indiamen, and 
several others bound to Rio Janeiro. It is worthy of remark 
that the Yankee ran from Ascension to Cape St. Augustine, 
a distance of 1200 miles, in 7^ days — fresh trades, pleas- 
ant weather, a smooth sea, and all sails set, scarcely ever 
moving tack or sheet. Lat. Obs. 8^29'. 

107th Day Monday ist Feb. 
All hands employed in sending away the prize. Made out 
Commission, Letter of Instructions, wrote a letter to the 
owners, and gave the ship's papers to the Prize-Master, 
Richard M. Coit, with a crew of 12 men. At 4 p. m. gave 
our prize three cheers and bade her adieu. At 9 a. m. hav- 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 273 

ing taken the paroles of all the prisoners, we gave Capts. 
Toole and Inman the long boat of the prize, supplied them 
with every necessary article, and being within 6 leagues 
of Pernambuco, they went on shore. Capt. Toole had been 
21 days a prisoner and behaved very well during the whole 
time. 10 a. m. saw a sail bearing S. E. at a great distance. 
Lat. Obs. 8°4' S. 

1 08th Day Tuesday 2d Feb. 
At I p. m. discovered a sail on the lee bow at a great dis- 
tance. At 3 p. m. having approached within 2^ miles of 
the sail mentioned in yesterday's journal made her out to 
be an English sloop of war in disguise. Immediately up 
helm, set staysails, and bore away N. b E. The enemy 
did the same and set all sail, showing a cloud of canvas. 
We were glad to observe that we soon altered his bearings, 
& at sundown left him astern, distant about 3 or 4 leagues. 
. . . On mustering the crew find we have 62 persons on 
board, including boys and negroes, also 3 prisoners. Lat. 
Obs. 8°i4' S. 

109th Day Wednesday 3d Feb. 

. . . . y2 after 5 p. m. saw several sails, made all sail in 
chace, but soon discovered them to be Jangars, or fishing 
boats. Lat. 7°53'. 

iioth Day Thursday 4th Feb. 
At 3 p. m. having run down opposite Pernambuco . . . 
hoisted the American pendant and colours, and hauled up 
close on the wind, bound to Fernando Noronha for a supply 
of water. Lat. Obs. 9° 17' S. 

I nth Day Friday 5th Feb. 
.... Lat. Obs. 7°29' S. 



274 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

ii2th Day Saturday 6th Feb. 
. . . . Lat. Obs. 5° 56'. — Long. Lunar 33° 50'. 
113th Day Sunday 7th Feb. 
At ^ past 5 a. m. the Island of Fernando Noronha — 
Yi past 7 saw a sail 2 points under the lee bow. Made all 
sail in chace. At Yz past 10 a. m. came up with the chace 
and found her to be our prize the Alder, Salisberry Master, 
being the second time we have spoken him. Sent for Capt. 
Sahsberry on board, who informed us that he left the 
Gaboon on the nth ult. — that he has seen no sail, that his 
schooner sailed well and was in good order, that his crew 
were all healthy except James Thomas — whom we took on 
board, and sent one of our prisoners in his stead, — and that 
he had a full cargo of the following articles; viz. 50 oz 
gold dust, 45 tons red-wood, i do ivory, ^ do bees wax, 
700 lbs gum copal. Took the gold on board, supplied Capt. 
S. with some bread, rice, butter, porter, etc. and at meridian 
gave him three cheers and bade him adieu. Lat. Obs. 3°43'. 

114th Day Monday 8th Feb. 
. . . . Yz past 7 a. m. came to anchor in 13 fathoms water, 
hard bottom, in a convenient harbour at the N. W. end of 
Fernando Noronha, distant about ^ of a mile from the 
shore. The Commander sent Lieut. Barton to ask permis- 
sion of the Governor to obtain wood and water. He was 
received in the most friendly manner and the petition was 
at once granted. The Governor informed Lieut. B. that 
the Morjiana and A casta, British Frigates, touched at this 
island last December, bound to India; and that the Amer- 
ican ship John of Salem, also touched here on the 14th Jan. 
1813. II a. m. sent the boat to fill water, which is very 
difficult to obtain. . . . 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 275 

115th Day Tuesday 9th F'eb. 
At 5 p. m. got up the anchor and dropped down nearer 
the watering place. . . . Both boats employed in getting off 
wood and water. Owing to the heavy surf which breaks 
over the rocks find it very difficult to take off the water. 
However got 9 casks on board and two boat loads of wood. 
Master Snow and Lieut. Barton on shore finishing our af- 
fairs, i. e. filling the rest of the water, buying fresh stock, 
etc. etc. All hands busy, some in the boats, others in the 
hold, many overhauling the rigging, slushing the masts, etc. 
no idlers, everyone anxious to leave the famous (or per- 
haps infamous) island of Fernando Noronha." James 
Thomas, the seaman we took out of the Alder, is danger- 
ously sick of a fever he caught in the Gaboon. 

1 1 6th Day Wednesday 10 Feb. 

Messrs. Snow, Barton and Miller dined on shore with 

the Governor. They were treated with great civility and 

politeness. The Governor expressed his satisfaction at our 

having captured 14 English vessels, and mentioned that an 

American Consul touched at this island on the 13th Dec. 

last, on his way to Pernambuco. Having got all wood and 

water on board, and also a fine bullock, at 4 p. m. weighed 

anchor and stood out to sea, with fresh trades and fine 

weather — course N. N. W. bound towards HOME. , . . 

Thomas is something better but still dangerous. Lat. Obs. 

i°3y S. 

117th Day Thursday nth Feb. 

.... Nothing worth noting. Lat. Obs. 30' S. 

1^ The island is used by the government of Brazil as a penal settle- 
ment. 



276 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

.... At 3 p. m. being Lieut. Vinson's watch, a squall 
struck us with all sail standing, and nearly capsized the 
ship. Instantly the other officers ran upon deck and let fly 
halyards and sheets and kept her before it. As soon as the 
squall was over Captain Wilson put Lieut. Vinson under 
arrest for this and various other offences during the cruise 
(See ante). Afterwards on his acknowledging his errors 
and promising to reform Captain Wilson reinstated him 
in his command. . . . No Obs. 

119th Day Saturday 13th Feb. 
. . . . Thomas is better. Lat. Obs. 4° 16' N. 

1 20th Day Sunday 14th Feb. 
. . . . [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 6°22'. 

121 st Day Monday 15th Feb. 
.... [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 8^35'. 

I22d Day Tuesday i6th Feb. 
. . . . [Nothing worth noting.] Lat. Obs. 11° 2\ 

123 Day Wednesday 17th Feb. 
. . . . Thomas is out of danger. Lat. Obs. i3°3o' N. 

124th Day Thursday i8th Feb. 
. . . . Thomas is much better. Lat. Obs. i5°37' N. 

125th Day Friday 19th Feb. 
. . . . Distance 203 miles — Lat. Obs. 18° 13' N. 

126th Day Saturday 20th Feb, 
.... Thomas is not so well. Lat. Obs. 20^52'' N. 

127th Day Sunday 31st Feb. 
. . . . [Nothing remarkable.] Lat. Obs. 23° 14' N. Long. 
Lunar Obs. at 9 a. m. 52° 12' W. 

128th Day Monday 22d Feb. 
At 6 a. m. discovered a sail one point on the lee bow. — • 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 277 

At 8 discovered the sail to be a brig. . . . At 10 made sail 
in chace of the ship . . . distant about 3 leagues. Lat. 
Obs. 25° 1 4'. 

129th Day Tuesday 23d Feb. 
Continued in chace of the sail ahead. At 2 p. m. fired 
a gun and hoisted the American flag, upon which the chace 
showed Portuguese colours and hove to. At 4 p. m. sent 
the boat on board and found her to be the Portuguese ship 
Amazon, Captain Francis Antonia, 24 days out from Lis- 
bon, bound to Boston with a cargo of salt. Capt. A. in- 
formed us that on the 15th inst. he saw a sail ahead but 
did not speak her^ — that there were a great number of Amer- 
icans at Lisbon and Cadiz, who were bound home under 
neutral colours. Lord Wellington had visited Lisbon and 
Cadiz for a few days and returned to his army. The 
English told Capt. A. that their fleets had burnt and de- 
stroyed Charleston and Philadelphia (This is very im- 
probable)^^ At 5 p. m. made sail on our course. Lat. Obs. 
26° 16' N. — Long. Lunar Obs. 10 a. m. 55°27' W. Var. 
Ev. Amp. 5°20'' W. Thomas is much better. 

130 Day Wednesday 24th Feb. 
.... At 1 1 a. m. discovered a sail on the lee bow, appar- 
ently a brig standing close hauled to the eastward under 
royals with his course hauled up. Observed the sail imme- 
diately to bear away in chace of us. Tacked ship and made 
all sail to avoid the chace, or at least to discover how she 
sailed. Gentle breezes, a smooth and pleasant weather. 
11-40 a. m. finding we dropped the chace very fast again 
tacked ship. ... At meridian the sail bears 2 points on 
the lee bow, distant 12 or 14 miles. Lat. Obs. 27° 3' N. — 
Long. Lunar 56^42' W. 

^2 The burning of Washington was yet to come. 



278 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

131st Day Thursday 25th Feb. 

Made all sail in chace. At 3 p. m, fired a gun, upon which 
the chace showed English colours. Yi past 3 she hove to 
with her maintopsail aback. Piped all hands to quarters 
and cleared for action. ^ before 4 the enemy got under 
weigh to engage us. At 4 p. m. being within good gun shot 
commenced a brisk cannonade on the starboard side which 
the enemy returned. 10 minutes past 4 p. m. she wore ship 
and struck her colours. Gave three cheers. Sent the barge 
on board and found our prize to be the English Brig called 
the Shannon, Captain Robert Kendall, of Workington, 25 
days out from Maranham, bound to Liverpool, 210 tons 
burthen, with a full cargo of cotton (100 bales) navigated 
by 15 men, mounting 10 carriage guns, sixes and nines, a 
fine vessel and sails well. The Mate was severely wounded 
in the foot. Took out the prisoners, made out Prize Com- 
mission for Samuel Barton, Letter of Instructions, gave him 
ship's papers, and at 3^ past 5 p. m. gave our prize three 
cheers and bade her adieu. Thus in one hour and a half 
we took a valuable prize, manned her and ordered her home. 
This prize may be estimated at $45,000." 

Long. Lunar at 9 a. m. 58°6' W.— Lat. Obs. 27^37' N. 

^3 Before the Shannon was captured, Mr. Jones had made out his 
"List of Prizes," and had also written the "Route of the Yankee" 
which is printed at the end of this Journal. It is possible that he 
may not have protested very strongly at the additional entries he was 
compelled to make. The Shannon, with her cargo, actually netted 
$67,521. The erroneous estimate may be excused in view of the ex- 
ceedingly short time allowed for its making. When the cargo of the 
Shannon was sold, Mr. De Wolf found that he had been remunerated 
for all his losses suffered at the hands of the British cruisers. He 
therefore renamed her the Balance. Bearing that name she sailed from 
Bristol for years thereafter. The next prize was renamed the Prize, 
and the next the Remittance. The San Jose Indiana of the 5th cruise 
became the General Jackson. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 279 

132 Day Friday 26th Feb. 
At 5 p. m. saw a sail i^ points on the lee bow, appar- 
ently a brig standing to the southward, ... At daylight 
no appearance of the sail we discovered last night. . . . 
Long. Lun. at 11 a. m. 59°44' W. — Lat. Obs. 28°2o' N. 

133d Day Saturday 27th Feb. 
At 3 p. m. discovered a sail two points on the lee beam; 
believed her to be an armed vessel in chace of us. Con- 
tinued our course with all our canvass spread. Yz past 4 
lost sight of the sail astern. During the night frequent 
squalls of wind and rain. At 4 p. m. being very dark and 
squally found ourselves suddenly in the midst of a fleet 
of ships. Instantly called all hands and tacked ship to the 
S. E. At daybreak discovered two large ships and a brig 
standing to the E. Tacked ship again to the N. N. W. 
The nearest sail bore two points on the lee beam distant 
about 2^ leagues. At 7 a. m. lost sight of all the sails and 
continued on our course. Strong breezes, flying clouds and 
a heavy sea. Rook two reefs in topsail and mainsail, got 
six of our cannon below, with all the shot boxes, secured 
Long Tom with strong lashings, housed the lee guns, and 
got everything ready for the stormy weather which we may 
expect to encounter as we approach our coast. . . . Thomas 
is nearly recovered. The wounded prisoner is comfortable 
and the Surgeon thinks he will do well. Lat. Obs. 30°27' N. 

134th Day Sunday 28th Feb. 
(Begins with heavy weather) 9 a. m. saw a sail 3 points 
on the weather bow. Yz past 10 spoke the Swedish (Amer- 
ican) Hermaphrodite Brig Augustus from Boston, bound 
to St. Bartholomew's — with liberty to touch at Bermuda — 



28o TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

with cargo of American produce, 15 days out. The Captain 
and passengers informed us that Commodore Decatur had 
captured the British Frigate Macedonian after an engage- 
ment of 17 minutes; that none of our vessels of war have 
been taken ; that Admiral Warren's squadron were blockad- 
ing the Chesapeake with two Seventy fours and five 
Frigates, and that there were not many cruisers on the 
coast. We obtained from him several newspapers up to 
the 13th Feb., from which it appears that no important 
battles had taken place on the Frontier, but several skir- 
mishes with the Indians ; that the foreign news was no later 
than our English papers — Bonaparte having retired into 
winter quarters at Smolenski, and Lord Wellington on 
the borders of Portugal ; that the coasting trade is still con- 
tinued; that a great trade was carried on under neutral 
flags and many vessels dispatched to Lisbon, Cadiz and 
France; that there were numerous arrivals from foreign 
ports but not many prizes, and that five frigates had sailed 
from France bound to America. Congress had passed a 
loan bill for 22 millions and raised another army of 20000 
men, besides building several sloops of war. Permitted 
the Augustus to proceed. — Lat. Obs. 3i°33'. 

135th Day Monday ist March 
.... Distance 212 miles. Invalids recover fast. Lat. 
Obs. 34°23' Thermometer 71°. 

136th Day Tuesday 2d March 
(Commences with strong breezes and pleasant weather — 
then comes a tremendous gale with very high seas.) 11 
a. m. the stern boat being stove in the bows cut it adrift. 
^ past II a. m. came on a very heavy squall of rain and 
hail and hove the ship down nearly to her beam ends; in- 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 281 

stantly cut away the fore and trysail halyards, got the helm 
up and kept her before it, threw four of our cannon over- 
board, got two below, sent down maintopmast ; vessel la- 
bored excessively, the sea making a fair breach over her. 
Continual squalls of wind, rain, hail and snow, with thunder 
and lightning and a very dangerous sea. Finding it unsafe 
to lay the ship to while the squalls continued sent her be- 
fore it under a foretopmast staysail; ship perfectly tight 
and making no water, Lai Obs. 37° ii' N. 

137 Day Wednesday 3d March 
The storm continues with frequent and heavy squalls. 
. . , At 12 midnight the squalls become less frequent — the 
wind more moderate and steady and the sea less dangerous. 
Hove to under trysail with her head to the westward, rode 
easy and shipped no seas. 8 a. m. the wind died away — 
nearly a calm — latterly an entire calm. Vessel labors con- 
siderably owing to the heavy sea. Thomas is almost well; 
the wounded Mate is in a fair way to recover; the Armourer 
received a bad contusion in the side by a fall. Ther. 63° 
Lat. 36°23' N. 

138 Day Thursday 4th March 
(More very nasty weather). Conclude with strong gales 
and flying clouds with a bad sea. Invalids not so well. 
Lat. Obs. 37°30' N. 

139th Day Friday 5th March 
(Variable weather. Two sails sighted at a distance.) 
Mr. Jackson, the wounded mate, is dangerously ill. Lat. 
Obs. None. 

140th Day Saturday 6th March 
(More squally weather with dangerous seas.) Thermo- 
meter 45°. Lat. 37°28'. 



282 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

141st Day Sunday 7th March 
(The gale gradually dies away). Dark cloudy weather 
and excessively cold. Mr. Jackson is dangerously sick — 
having symptoms of the lock-jaw. The Armourer recov- 
ered. Lat. Obs. 37°5' N. 

I42d Day Monday 8th March 
(Again heavy weather and high seas.) Mr. Jackson is 
(we fear) past recovery, having frequent spasms and con- 
firmed lockjaw. James Thomas no better, the Armourer 
better. No Obs. Lat. D. R. 39°37' N. Long. D. R. 69° 55'. 

143d Day Tuesday 9th March 
.... 8 a. m. discovered a sail on the weather bow, ^ past 
8 made out the sail to be a pilot-boat-built schooner under 
reefs standing towards us. 9 a. m. the sail showed a red 
and white signal and bore away S. E. Believed her to be 
an American Privateer. Yz past 9 more ships heading W. 
N. W. . . . Tis exactly 5 months today since we left Bris- 
tol. Mr. Jackson no better. Lat. Polar Star at 4 a. m. 
39° 30' No Obs. 

144th Day Wednesday loth March 
(Preparations for port). This morning the sun was fair 
and serene, the air was clear and bracing, the sea smooth, 
and a fair wind from the S. W. Sent up topmasts and 
yards and set all sail below and aloft. Cou. N. N. E. 8 
knots. Got up all the wet sails, colours and clothes and 
aired them. Bent the cables. Lat. Polar star at 7 p. m. 
39°2o' N. Lat. Obs. 40° 14'. Long. Lunar at 4 p. m. 
72° 54' W. Soundings at meridian 55 fathoms. Block 
Island bears N. N. E. distant about 65 miles. Jackson is 
better. 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 283 

145th Day Thursday nth March 
.... At 3^ past 4 p. m. the man at mast head called out 
LAND HO ! Joyful sound to persons five months at sea 
on a long and dangerous cruise. Suppose the land to be 
Long Island. At sundown running down the land on the 
larboard hand. 7 p. m. cloudy with rain. Shortened sail. 
8 p. m. being very dark and hazy and not being able to see 
the light hove to under reefed topsail and stood off and 
on 3 a. m. died away a calm and we suddenly lessened our 
soundings to 6 fathoms. Immediately took in sail and let 
go our small anchor. Found she rode with her head to 
the S. W. current setting to the N. E. At daylight being 
dark and foggy with rain, and no land in sight, fired sev- 
eral guns for a pilot. 8 a. m. it became more clear and 
we discovered the land and breakers close aboard bearing 
E. b N. We instantly knew this land to be Nantucket and 
that we were mistaken in supposing it to be Long Island. 
This mistake might have proved fatal and had it commenced 
blowing heavy from the S. W. we must inevitably have 
been shipwrecked on these dangerous shoals. Weighed 
anchor and made all sail to the S. Soon deepened our 
soundings to 17 fathoms. . . . No Obs. 

146th Day Friday 12th March 
At 3^2 past I p. m. the fog cleared away and we plainly 
discerned No Man's Land, Gay Head and Block Island 
all in view. . . . Observe the land to be covered with snow 
and a brig and schooner in shore. Cloudy and very cold 
with a smooth sea, a fair wind and all sail set. At 3-13 
p. m. saw Rhode Island Light right ahead.' — 6 p. m. came 
on a very thick fog with a heavy swell. Spoke a schooner 
from New York bound in to Newport wdio informed us 



284 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

he left Rhode Island Light about 30 minutes ago and that 
it bore N. N. W. distant about 3 miles. He further men- 
tioned that there were no British cruisers in the Bay, but 
had heard of several off Sandy Hook. Made sail for the 
Light. Yz past 6 p. m. it being very dark and foggy, not 
being able to see the Light, came to anchor in 17 fathoms, 
soft bottom. During the night foggy with heavy rain and 
extremely cold. 12 midnight discovered the Light bearing 
N. N. W. ^ N. distant about i^/^ miles. At daylight made 
sail and weighed anchor, standing in for Newport harbour. 
It is with deep regret we mention the death of Mr. Jackson, 
late first Mate of the English Brig Shannon, who died at 
Yz past 12 midnight in great agony. Mr. Jackson, as be- 
fore stated, was severely wounded by a cannon ball in the 
foot during the skirmish between the Yankee and the Shan- 
non on the 24th ult. Notwithstanding every medical assist- 
ance, and all possible attention his wound terminated in 
the lockjaw, spasms and death. Mr. Jackson belonged to 
Workington, was 23 years old, very much beloved by his 
captain and crew, and appeared to be a most excellent 
young man. 

At Yz past 7 a. m. passed Rhode Island Light; Y^ P^^st 
8 a. m. fired a salute of three guns as we passed Fort Wol- 
cott. 9 a. m. came to anchor in Newport harbour. Thus 
after an absence of 146 days the Yankee has arrived safe, 
having captured during the cruise 8 valuable prizes, 52 
cannons, 196 prisoners, 401 stand of small arms, and prop- 
erty to the amount of 296,000 dollars. She is ballasted 
with gold-dust, ivory and fine goods. She has not lost a 
man during the cruise either by sickness or the enemy, and 
has returned with 52 persons on board including boys. It 
is worthy of remark that the Yankee neither saw nor was 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 285 

chased by any of his Majesty's war dogs during the cruise 
except the Httle schooner St. Jago. She has encountered 
as before mentioned a great deal of tempestuous weather 
on the coast but has received no material injury, except the 
loss of 4 cannon thrown overboard on the 2d of March, 

THUS ENDS OUR CRUISE. 
"Honor and shame from no condition rise, 
Act well your part, there all the Honor lies." 

District and Port of Newport, March 12th, 1813. 
I, Oliver Wilson, Commander of the private armed brig called the 
Yankee, do sw^ear that what is contained in the foregoing Journal, 
consisting of one hundred and fifty pages, is just and true in all its 
parts. So help me God. 

Oliver Wilson. 
Collector's Office, Port of Newport 
Sworn to the day and year above mentioned, 
William Ellery, Collector. 



FINIS 

LIST OF PRIZES CAPTURED BY THE PRIVATEER "yANKEE'* 
DURING HER SECOND CRUISE. 

No. I. Sloop Mary Ann of London, Captain Stewart Suth- 
erland, copper-bottomed, mounting 4 carriage guns and 
navigated by 1 1 men, with a cargo of gold-dust, ivory, 
drygoods, and camwood. Took out the cargo, stripped 
the vessel and set her on fire. 27th Nov. 181 2 — Lat. Obs. 
7^29' N. — off Sierra Leone. 
Vessel and cargo valued at $16,000 

No. 2 Letter of Marque Schooner Alder, of Liverpool, late 
Captain Edward Crowley, mounting 6 carriage gims (9 
pounders), coppered, formerly a French Privateer, with 



286 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

21 men and a cargo of gun powder (400 casks) muskets, 
iron, lead, flints, drygoods, etc. Ordered home. The 
Alder was captured on the 3d of Dec. 181 2 in Lat. 6° 53' 
N, off Cape Saint Anna, after a skirmish of 20 minutes. 
The Alder blew up. 
Vessel and cargo valued at $10,000 

No. 3 Letter of Marque Brig Andalusia, Anthony Yates 
Kendall, Master of and from Gibraltar, bound to the coast 
on a trading voyage, 210 tons burthen, mounting 10 car- 
riage guns (4 long French nines and 6 twelve pound can- 
nonades) with small arms, ammunition etc. and a crew 
of 100 men including 81 Free Africans who served as 
marines. The Andalusia was captured on the loth of 
Dec. 1812, in Lat. 5°35' N, after a running fight of three 
hours and a close engagement of 45 minutes. 
Vessel and cargo valued at $17,000 

No. 4 Pilot boat Schooner George. Cut out by the Yan- 
kee's boat. Deserted by the captain and crew. Cargo 
Rice. Given to prisoners. 
Vessel and cargo valued at $1,000 

No. 5 Brig Thames of Liverpool, Francis Toole, Master; 
8 carriage guns (nines and twelves), 14 men, cargo ivory, 
drygoods and camwood (240 tons) — captured loth Jan. 
18 1 3 off Annabona. 
Vessel and cargo valued at $25,000 

No. 6 Brig Fly of London, Captain Tydeman, 6 carriage 
guns (nines) 14 men, formerly a French privateer, a new 
and handsome vessel and sails, cargo gold-dust, ivory, 
gun powder, drygoods and sundries. The Fly was cut 
out from under the guns of Fort ApoUonia, mounting 50 
pieces of artillery, at i p. m. on the 20th Dec. 1812. 
Vessel and cargo valued at (Besides the gold) $26,000 



JOURNAL OF THE YANKEE 



287 



No. 7 Armed Brig Harriott and Matilda, of Maryport, 
Captain John Inman, from Cork bound to Pernambueo, 
mounting 8 carriage guns, eighteens and twelves, 14 men, 
coppered, 262 tons, sails well, with a valuable cargo of 
drygoods, iron, porter, salt etc. 
Vessel and cargo valued at $27,000 

No. 8 Brig Shannon, Captain Robert Kendall, of Work- 
ington, from Maranham, bound to Liverpool, mounting 
10 carriage guns (nines and sixes), 15 men, 210 tons 
burthen, with a full cargo of cotton (100 tons). The 
Shannon was captured on the 24th Feb. in Lat. 27^3' N. 
and Long. Lunar 56°42' W, Bermudas bearing N. W., 
after an action of 10 minutes in which the Mate of the 
Shannon was severely wounded. 

Vessel and cargo valued at $45,000 

Property on board the Yankee in gold, ivory, 

fine goods etc. $45,000 

$212,000 



GENERAL ESTIMATE. 



Names Guns 


Men 


Small Arms 


Value 


Mary Ann 4 


II 


186 


$16,000 


Alder 6 


21 


90 


10,000 


Andalusia 10 


100 


90 


17,000 


George 


7 




1,000 


Fly 6 


14 


20 


26,000 


Thames 8 


14 


30 


25,000 


Harriott & Matilda 8 


14 


20 


27,000 


Sliannon 10 


15 
196 


25 
461 


45,000 


52 


$167,000 


Value on board the Yankee 






45,000 



$212,000 



288 TALES OF AN OLD SEA PORT 

OFFICERS OF THE YANKEE 

Oliver Wilson, Commander 

Seth Barton, First Lieutenant 

John H. Vinson, Second Lieutenant 
Thomas Jones, Third Lieutenant 
Elisha Snow, Master 
Caleb Miller, Surgeon 

Noah Jones, Capt. of Marines & Captain's Clerk 
Andrew Holden, First Mate 

Joseph Meades, Second Mate 
Thomas Pitts, Third Mate 
Seven Prize-Masters 

Six Quarter-Masters 
One hundred men 

ROUTE OF THE YANKEE 

Touched at St. Jago, Cape de Verds, on the 27th day of 
her cruise for wood and water. Engaged one of his Britan- 
nic Majesty's Schooners on the night of the 23d of Novem- 
ber. Cruised between Cape Verde and Cape Lopez from 
the 22d of November 1812 to the 6th of January 1813, 
looking in at every port, harbour, river, factory, town etc 
on that coast, and capturing five valuable prizes, loaded with 
gold dust, ivory, dyewoods etc. Touched at the island's of 
St. Thomas, Annabona, Ascension, and Fernando Noronha, 
at various times during her cruise, for wood, water and 
fresh stock. Then cruised off the coast of Brazil, and cap- 
tured two large brigs with cargoes of fine goods and sun- 
dries. Fought four battles, crossed the Equinoctial Line 
six times, and returned safe into port, having been fre- 
quently chased by the enemy, after an absence of 146 days 
without the loss of a man.^* 

(Noah Jones, Captain's Clerk) 

1* The Shannon had not been taken when this "Route" was written. 



INDEX 



Adam of Bremen, 8 

Alaska houses and customs, 146 

Allen, Amos A., 231 

Allen, Anson A., 244 

Ancastra, Governor General, 240 

Andrews, Zep, 269 

Angell, James, 228, 230, 231, 234, 235, 

2.Z7, 241, 244 
Annals of Iceland, 9 
Anthony, James, 270 
Anthony, Joseph, 238, 269 
Antonio, Capt. Francis, 277 
Antonio, King of Lahore, 256 
Archangel settlement, 126 
Ariadne of Boston, 229 
Athawalpa, 116 
Atwood, Preserved, 240 

Babcock, W. H., 2 

Bafts, 246 

Baidarkas, 114 

Baker, Lemuel, 241 

Balance, brig, 278 

Bander, Supt., 144 

Baranoff, Baron, 114 et seq., 120 

Barracks moved, 2S 

Barton, Samuel, 219, 220, 278 

Barton, Seth, 228, 245, 251, 257, 274, 

275, 258 
Belfour, Ellah & Co., 198 
Biarni, Heriulfson, 3 
Blockade, privateer, 212 
Booldakofif, Mr., 195 
"Boston Men," iii 
Bosworth, Nathaniel, 15 
Boyish sports, 30 
Boynton, Samuel, 233, 234, 235, 237, 

244 
Bradford, Gov. William, 23, 25 
Bradford house, 25 
Briggs, John, 227, 230, 231, 234, 235, 

241, 244 
Bristol, name 14, bombarded 22, 

burned 2}, 



Brown, Captain, 113 
Brown, Daniel, 44 
Brown, John, 19, 206 
Brown, Peleg, 44 
Bruce, George A., 219 
Bucharin, Capt, 163 
Bucklin, D., 102 
Bucklin, E., 102 
Burgas, Capt. Miguel, 233 
Burt, Rev. John, 22 
Burt, "Marm," 25 
Burton, Stephen, 13, 14 
Butman, Joseph, 244 
Byfield, Nathaniel, 13, 18 
Byfield house, 15 
Byrum, Ebenezer, 231 

Cammett, Richard, 102 

Caroline of Boston, ill 

Carr, Capt. Caleb, 212, 214 

Carr, Mr., 252 

Carter, John, 253, 260, 263, 264, 266 

Charanville, Madam, 89 

Child, William, 253 y 

Chippewa, sloop of war, 212 

Church, Benjamin, 12, 14 

Churchill, Capt. Benj. K., 221, 222 

Cockroach, Cuffee, 219, 221 

Coddington Jr., Nathaniel, 44 

Coit, Richard M., 272 

Colt, Samuel Pomeroy, 224 

Columbia of Boston, iii 

Commerce, 31 

Cook, J. D., 102 

Courtney, brig, 220 

Cramer, Benedict, 195 

Cramer, Smith & Co., 195 

Crawford, James, 235 

Crowne, John, 12 

Crowley, Capt. Edward, 246, 285 

Cuffee Cockroach, 219, 221 

Cunha-Matos, Governor, 262 



Davidoff, John, 121, 128, 153, 201 



289 



290 



INDEX 



D'Antillac, Father, 92 
D'Huberlant, Father, 92 
D'OrvilHers, Commandant, 85 
DeVilleconte, Father, 92 
DeWolf, Charles, loi 
DeWolf, George, loi 
DeWolf, James, 32, loi, 200 et seq. 
DeWolf, John, 97 et seq. 
DeWolf, Mark Antony, 44, 205 
DeWolf family, 97 
Dichaetin, Chief, 131 
Distilleries, 26 
Dogs, 152, 154, 157 
Downing, Mrs., 97 
Duddington, Thomas, 19 
Duffel, 114 
Duro, 187 

Ebbetts, Capt., iii 
Eddy, George, 219, 266 
Ellery, William, 285 
Elliott, Francis, 220 
Eustis, William, 214 

Fauque, Father, 45, 48 et seq. 
Fernald, Professor, 5 
Ferry boats, 190 
Foy, William. 102 
Francis, prize ship, 218 
Freydis, 8 

Gaspee, schooner, burned, 19 

General Jackson, prize ship, 32, 220 

General Wellesley, prize ship, 222 

Gibsheet, Jack, 241 

Goff, seaman, 248 

Gorea, 18, 241 

Grafton, Samuel, 221 

Grand Sisters Islands, 255 

Grant, Sueton, 44 

Grapes, 5 

Grav, Capt. David, 199 

Gray, Capt. Robert, iii 

Greene, Governor \Villiam, 49 

Griswold, Bishop, 26 

Gullifer, Sampson, 219 

Gunnerson, George. 241. 244 

Gunpowder Plot, 66 

Guy Fawkes Day, 66 

Hampden. John, 11 
Hanson, J., 102 



Hardiman, Lieutenant, 225 

Harris, L., 196 

Hayman, Nathan, 14 

Hetherington, A. B., 221 

Hitchcock, 102 

Holden, Andrew, 259, 260, 288 

Holden, James, 260, 263, 264 

Holmes, Capt. Bartlett, 229 

Hooper, Joseph, 102 

"Hop," 7 

Hopkins, Stephen, 10 

Horsford, E. N., 2 

Hunt, Thomas, 102 

Iceland Annals, 9 

Imag^ worship, 61 

Ingraham, Ned, 228, 233, 237, 241 

Inman, Capt. John, 272 

Irkutsk, 181 

Ivanah, Major Antony, 151 

Jack Jibsheet, 219, 221, 241 
Jackson, Mate, 281, 284 
James, Edward, 242 
Japanese on Kurile Islands, 153 
Jenckes, Capt. Wm. C, 221 
Jenkins, Capt, 231 
Jones, Abraham, 115 
Jones, Edward, 248 
Jones, John, 102 
Jones, Noah, 225, 288 
Jones, Thomas, 219, 220, 288 
Juno, ship loi, crew 102 

Kaluschians, 132 

Kendall, Capt. Anthony Y., 251 

Kendall, Capt. Robert, 278 

Kip, Bishop W. I., 44 

Kipp, William, 44 

Koscheleff, Gov. General, 155 

Koriikin, 121 

Koster, John, 234 235, 243 

Krusenstern, Capt., 124 

Kurile Islands, 153 

Kutsnettsoff, 164, 192 

Lafayette, 24 

Lage de la Landerie, 54 

Langsdorff, Dr. George, 121, 127 et 

seq., 182, 201 
Lawarinoff, Madame, 147 
Lcif Ericson, 3 



INDEX 



291 



Lewis, Joseph, 230, 234, 241 
Lindegard, J. C, 263, 264 
Lisiansky, Capt, 124, 125 

Macdonough, privateer, 212, 213, 214 

Maf'ina, Dr., 239 

Mahoney, J., 102 

Mary af Boston, 104, 105, 116, 120 

Marshall, J., 102 

Maschin, Andrew W., 121, 128 

Mason, Aaron, 237 

Massasoit, 9, 10, 11 

Meades, Joseph, 288 

Midget, Abner, 244 

Miller, Dr. Caleb, 270, 288 

Milton, Thomas, 219, 259 

Mitchell, Henry, 238 

Monthaup or Montop, 2 

Moorfield, James, 102, 115, 123, 195 

Morris, Watson, 237 

Moscow, 192 et seq. 

Mount Hope Lands, 2, 13 

Munro, Benjamin, 44 

Murphy, T., 102 

Nantucket, 3 
Narragansett pacers, 78 
Nautical terms, 213 
Newell, Samuel G., 102 
Newcttee, 109 
Norseman's Rock, 9 
Norsemen, 2 

O'Connor, Mr., 253 
Officers of the Yankee, 288 
Oliver, Nathaniel, 13, 14 
Oj'apoc, 45 et seq.. Fort 92 

Parker, E. D., 102, 103, 165 

Patterson, S., 102 

Pearl of Boston, iii, 116 

Peck, Lyman, 241 

Perry, Rev. C. B., 97, 206 

Perry, Com. M. C, 99 

Perry, Com. O. H., 212 

Pervoshka, 182 

PetroflF, Supt., 163 

Philip, King ir, monument 12 

Phillips, Michael, 44 

Phipps, W., 102 

Pickens, Samuel, 257 



Pitts, Thomas, 288 

Plunder from Oyapoc, 46 

Popes in Russia, 144 

Popoflf, 121 

Porter, Capt., 116 

Port Praya, 240 

Potter, Jeffrey, 44, 46 

Potter, Simeon, 19, 38, 206 

Powers, J., 102 

Prince Charles of Lorraine, wrecked, 

43 
Prizes of the Yankee, 286-7 
Profits from privateering, 217 

Ramansoff, 196 

Redding, William, 231, 240, 241 
Religious revivals, 26, 27 
Resanoff, Baron, 100, 121, 125, 153, 163 
Rhode Island privateers, 42 
"Rodelan" described, 59 
Robinson, Capt. Andrew, 98 
Royal Bounty, ship, 217 
Russell, Thomas P., 217 
Russian baptismal service, 158 
Russian leavetakings, 189 
Russian trading voyage to San Fran- 
cisco, 138 

Sables at Irkutsk, 175 

St. Michael's Church, burned 24 

St. Michael's Church, revivals in 26 

St. Thomas Island, 262 

San Jose Indiano, prize, 220 

Salsbury (or Salisberry), Daniel, 

248, 264, 274 
Schelikoff, pioneer, 125 
Schilchachon, 132 
Schooners, 98 
Schoonerson, George, 238 
Schwostoff, Nicholas, 121, 128, 153, 

201 

Settakroo, King, 254 

Shipbuilding, 31 

Simmons, Cyrus, 228, 230, 231, 234, 

235, ^zy 
Simonitch, Dementy, 186 
Sitka, habits, houses and fashions 

134, climatic conditions 137 
Skraelings, 7 

Slave trade, 16, 18, 206 et seq. 
Slocum, N. A., 260 



292 



INDEX 



Slocum, N. M., 266 

Smallpox, 179 

Smith, Bishop B. B., 21 

Smith, John, 215, 220 

Snorri Thorfinnson, 6 

Snow, EHsha, 219-21, 244, 252, 263, 

274 
Starruk (Starnike), 153 
Stetson, George W., 106, 123 
Sturgis, Capt., 113 
Stokes, J., 102 

Sutherland, Capt. Stewart, 243, 253 
Swan, Capt. Thomas, 21 
Sweet, Capt. Manly, 217 
Switchell or Switcher, Asa, 241, 244, 

263, 264 

Tacking, 3 

Tatton, D., 102 

Tea drinking, 175 

Thames, prize ship, 219 

Thomas, James, 237, 241, 274, 275 

Thomas, John A., 102 

Thorfinn Karlsefni, 6 

Thorvald Ericson, 5, 7 

Tilley, Admiral B. R, 30 

Tobacco benefits, 29 

Tobolsk, 188 

Tompenny, Capt. Robert, 253 

Toole, Capt. Francis, 265 

Trescott, Capt, 104 

Tripp, W. H., 102 

Turtles, 269 

Tydeman, Capt. Jonathan, 258 

Tyng, Rev. S. H., 28 

Tyrker, 5 



Usher, James 2d, 217 
Usher, Sammy, 16 

Vancouver of Boston, 113, 116 
Viking ships, 2 
Vinland, 2, 5, 8 

Vinson, John H., :^o, 263, 264, 266, 
276, 288 

Wallace, Capt. James, 21, 22 
Walley, John, 13, 14 
Wamsutta, 11 
Wardwell, Henry, 221 
Washington, George, 25 
Water Witch, privateer, 212 
Whales and whaling, 32, 143, 161 
Wheeler, J., 102 
Wheesner, J., 102 
Whipple, Capt. Abraham, 20, 21 
Whitehead, Charles B., 246 
Whitmarsh, Jonathan, 243 
Williams, Capt. Alfred, 239 
Wilson, Capt. Oliver, 213, 217, 225 

et seq. 
Wilson, Tom, 255 
Wilson, Capt. Thomas, 226 
Winship, Capt. Jonathan, 140 
Winslow, Edward, 10, 11 
Winter climate of Vinland, 4, 7 
Wiopock, 45 

Yakutsk, 173 
Yemshik, 184 
Yermerk, 122 

Zelinzoff, 187 



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